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Old 08-04-2003, 06:57 PM   #1
whtlegacy
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Default Need Help with Crank Pulley Install

I'm in the process of installing a Perrin lightweight non-underdriven crankshaft pulley on my '99 2.5l legacy. I'm having a hell of a time with this one tensioner bolt, as illustrated by number 1 on this picture from scoobymods

The bolt is just on so tight that I can't seem to get it off. I've applied WD-40 and have even tried using a pipe on the end of my 12mm wrench. The angle is nearly impossible. Before I destroy this bolt, does anyone have any ideas? I'm not a real skilled mechanic. Is there some other tool I could use here?
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Old 08-04-2003, 07:13 PM   #2
dcoty
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Take your fans off...it makes the whole install go much easier and you will have a better reach on the bolt.

And by all means...make sure the "key" or "tooth" lines up into the little hole on the crank pulley when you put it on the car...I misaligned it, bolted it on my car, put everything together and when I started the car it was wobbling everywhere...and it took lots of time to get it off and dremel away the bent metal. Just make sure it is on right.

I also installed mine 3 years ago, so my memory is foggy...but I did take the fans off and it helped a lot. You also have to disconnect a radiator hose as well I believe.


Good luck!

Dan
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Old 08-04-2003, 08:23 PM   #3
whtlegacy
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Pulling the radiator off worked out. I've got another problem though. When I'm using my ratchet to unbolt the 22mm bolt holding the stock crank pulley, the pulley and crankshaft seem to be moving as I try to turn the bolt. I have the car in park with the E-brake on. How can I unbolt it?
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Old 08-04-2003, 08:39 PM   #4
mprezuhguy
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Put the car in 1st? Maybe?
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Old 08-04-2003, 09:06 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally posted by whtlegacy
Pulling the radiator off worked out. I've got another problem though. When I'm using my ratchet to unbolt the 22mm bolt holding the stock crank pulley, the pulley and crankshaft seem to be moving as I try to turn the bolt. I have the car in park with the E-brake on. How can I unbolt it?
i assume u have an automatic - take a look at this thread

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...hlight=jejunum
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Old 08-05-2003, 12:50 AM   #6
whtlegacy
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just found that thread. the trick where you prop a breaker bar against the ground and crank the engine worked, although I thought I broke my crankshaft at first. I'm yet to try and get them back on.
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Old 08-05-2003, 01:43 PM   #7
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I know I'd be afraid to try that.
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Old 08-05-2003, 01:50 PM   #8
Legacy777
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The "proper" way to do it is to stick a breaker bar or large pry bar in the holes on the flex plate, and then loosen the crank pulley.
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Old 08-05-2003, 02:09 PM   #9
Jejunum
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Quote:
Originally posted by legacy777
The "proper" way to do it is to stick a breaker bar or large pry bar in the holes on the flex plate, and then loosen the crank pulley.
blah; the proper way to do it is to use the specialized subaru tool; (22 mm socket wrench with accoutrmenets to keep crank shaft pulley from rotating). can u describe the flex plate though? (i still havent done this mod!)

it seems like the second best way is to use a strap wrench and have someone keep the pulley from rotating
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Old 08-05-2003, 02:15 PM   #10
whtlegacy
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I also read to stick something in a plastic plug on the bell housing of the tranny on the passenger side. Can anyone help me figure out where this is?
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Old 08-05-2003, 03:05 PM   #11
ciper
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Goto Kragen and purchase a generic strap wrench.

Wrap around crank pulley

Turn crank until strap wrench handle touches power stearing pulley.

Remove crank bolt

Reverse to reinstall!

I got mine tightened over 150ft lbs this way.
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Old 08-05-2003, 03:16 PM   #12
whtlegacy
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I got impatient and ended up sticking a breaker bar in one of the holes in the pulley and torquing to 75 lb/ft (as high as my torque wrench goes). I think 75 should be enough, right?
Anyway, as I was taking the radiator fans off, I knocked off the coolant hose from the radiator and lost about 2 cups of coolant from the hose. Is this a serious problem? My coolant reservoir is at the full line, although I haven't started the car yet.
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Old 08-05-2003, 05:13 PM   #13
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Quote:
I also read to stick something in a plastic plug on the bell housing of the tranny on the passenger side. Can anyone help me figure out where this is?
someone at worked showed me where that is today...basically its uhh just below your air filter; theres a plastic plug and the dude said to just stick a braker bar in there (remove air box so theres good accesibility) and then the pulley wont rotate. ill take a picture on friday and send it to anyone that wants it!

edit: so i guess thats the flex plate

Quote:
I got impatient and ended up sticking a breaker bar in one of the holes in the pulley and torquing to 75 lb/ft (as high as my torque wrench goes). I think 75 should be enough, right?
which holes in the pulley? it sounds like u should go atleast 85 from this

Quote:
I had emailed Mr Josh regarding how much to torque his pulley and he told me that it should be between 85-90 because it's aluminum. You guys are saying 110-120 if not more. I'm a little confused. I'm planning on installing the pulley this weekend and want to make sure that everything is done right. If you use locktight, could that eliminate the issue of the pulley getting loose?
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Old 08-05-2003, 05:28 PM   #14
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whtlegacy: not only is 75 SERIOUSLY low but most torque wrenches arent very accurate at the maximum/minimum settings.

Try 125 ft lbs.
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Old 08-05-2003, 06:09 PM   #15
whtlegacy
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I ended up cranking it some more using a ratchet. It's definately more than 75 lb/ft now but I didn't want to go too high because Perrin recommends no more than 90 lb/ft. I think 125 would be too much.
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Old 08-05-2003, 06:29 PM   #16
ciper
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whtlegacy: Dude, seriously.

We are trying to help you here. Im not going to spost the threads about destroyed cranks because the pulley wasnt tight enough.

Long story short, an INCORRECT rating was published that many shops followed. A results was damage ranging from replacement pulleys to replacement cranks!

Im fairly sure that at least on the early ej22 the spec was 110 ft lbs with loctite, I feel it should be higher.
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Old 08-05-2003, 06:59 PM   #17
whtlegacy
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ciper - You're saying Perrin's instruction for 90 lb/ft is wrong? Isn't their lightweight aluminum pulley a lot more delicate and thus more subject to over-torquing than the OEM pulley?
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Old 08-06-2003, 12:37 AM   #18
Kennis
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Dude... its not gonna break.

Thanks for the instructions guys. I'm supposed to be getting this exact same pulley in the mail soon from an ebay auction. I'll let you know how it goes.

I just put my Carbon Fiber hood on.... I just wanted to tell everyone cause it makes me proud

RAM AIR here we go!!!!!
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Old 09-08-2006, 08:46 PM   #19
XWRATED
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So has it been confirmed what tool to use??? Is there a tool you can rent from autozone that will help with this??? And I used the 5th gear parking brake trick way back on another car and it worked. Some have worried about the drivetrain. But I dont see how it would affect the drivetrain when you have over 200lbs of torque sent through it. Anyhow, an update would be great as I am attempting this install shortly.

Scott
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Old 09-08-2006, 09:06 PM   #20
Tim Sanderson
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2.2l is 94 ft lbs.

2.5l is 134 ft lbs.

No loc-tite needed.

This is according to the my2000 factory service manual. If your factory service manual says something different please post it and for which motor.

What tool to use. A couple suggestions have been made already. I use a tool I made. It's a long piece of aluminum bar stock with two holes drilled and tapped in it. I thread a couple bolts into it and put the bolts in the crank pulley to hold it while I loosen the crank bolt.

Another trick I've seen is just putting two bolts in the pulley and use a prybar between the two bolts to hold it still. All you need to be sticking out are the bolt heads and that should work fine.

Last edited by Tim Sanderson; 09-08-2006 at 09:16 PM.
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Old 09-09-2006, 12:39 PM   #21
Hayes
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75 ft/lbs is tooooooooo low and will cause you to loose a crankshaft down the road. In addition; on this type of applacation I use only high quality 6 point sockets that fit very well.
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