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Old 08-15-2003, 04:02 PM   #1
Silver-Bolt
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Default Door panel removal?

Any tips/tricks to removing alll the door panels? Planning a stereo install soon and would like to check out the speaker mounting locations. So far I understand that 6.5" fit up front and 5-1/4" for the rear doors. Am I correct? How deep can we go up front? Looking at Infinity Kappa separates up front and Infinity coax or triax for the rear. Planning a sub yet to be determined for the trunk. Looking for any and all input.
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Old 08-15-2003, 04:10 PM   #2
hokiewrx
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Door panel removal is easy, three screws. Do a search because there are more detailed threads on how to take it off, but it will take no more than 5 minutes. As for the speakers: yes 6.5" for front and 5.25" for rear. No more than 2.75" in the front for depth. You will need thick spacers to pull it off. Contact audiforlife2001@yahoo.com and he can provide you with those at a good cost. Tell him JP sent you. For the rear, depth is not the problem, cutout diameter is. No more than 4.6". Hope this helps, I just installed MB Quarts up front, perfect install!
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Old 08-15-2003, 04:34 PM   #3
kb3drfsti
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I am going to use the same speakers,we must have both looked at crutchfield.I would
like to use the rear deck,any tips for cutting the back deck for speakers? Matt
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Old 08-15-2003, 05:47 PM   #4
Silver-Bolt
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I thought about doing the back deck too. Probably get better sound. The drivers side would be easy the passenger side would take some work. Looks like part of the rear seat belt is in the way.
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Old 08-15-2003, 07:28 PM   #5
imminence
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Did you have clearance problems with the speaker rubbing on the insde of the door panel with that thick of a spacer? Did you need to grind down the inside of the door panel at all?

If you are going to be installing 5.25" speakers in the rear doors, keep in mind that you will need to do some metal trimming to get those to sit flush.

I'm using Phoenix Gold Tantrum series 6" components in the front, 5.25" coaxials in the rear, will be going with 6" coaxials on the rear deck, and a JL Audio 10W7 sub, all powered by a Soundstream Davinci amplifier.
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Old 08-15-2003, 10:52 PM   #6
ldivinag
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Quote:
Originally posted by imminence
all powered by a Soundstream Davinci amplifier. [/b]
damn dude...

you gotta lemme check that amp...

where are you in no cal?

i just got a refurb SS REF 604 going as 3 channels...
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Old 08-15-2003, 11:03 PM   #7
Nivek-CA
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I found that it is easiest to take off the door panel after removing the screws by using a screwdriver with a large flat surface. Cover the screwdriver with a thin towel so you do not damage anything when using it. Open the door and insert the flat head of the screwdriver underneath the door panel on the lower insider corner (the corner closest to the vehicle. Then gently pry the panel off at that point. You will hear a pop as the first fastener is pulled from the door. Remove the screwdriver and slide your fingers underneath that edge where the screwdriver sat. Now slowly slide your fingers toward the outside of the door (away from the vehicle) while gently pulling the door panel away from the actual door. Once you have undone all the fasteners gently lift the door panel off the door while paying close attention to how it sits on top of the door.

Repeat for each door. When reattaching the door panels, make sure all the fasteners are attached to the door panel and that when you actually reattach the door panel that each fastener is fastening the door panel to the door. If you do not, the door panel may not sit right or will not be secured as snugly against the door as it could.

Hope this helps. Let me know.

Good Luck.
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Old 08-15-2003, 11:14 PM   #8
ZenBoy
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Quote:
Originally posted by imminence
Did you have clearance problems with the speaker rubbing on the insde of the door panel with that thick of a spacer? Did you need to grind down the inside of the door panel at all?
Potentially, yes. I'm using Boston Acoustics 6.5" Pro Series components up front, and as a precaution I did grind down the "ribs" on the inside of the front speaker grilles. But then, I'm also using 3/4" spacers up front to keep the magnets from hitting the window hardware. The magnets are unexpectedly large.

On a side note, I also found that the best way to mount the tweeters behind the factory tweeter grilles is to actually mount them to the trim panel itself, using extra backstrapping material I had around. Great positioning.

I would be interested to hear if anyone else is using 3/4" spacers up front, though, and if they're been hitting the door panels at all with the cone travel....

Quote:
If you are going to be installing 5.25" speakers in the rear doors, keep in mind that you will need to do some metal trimming to get those to sit flush.
The easiest thing to do, which Robmarch suggested (and I didn't even think of myself), is to mount the speakers to the BACKSIDE of the doorframe. The rear trim panels sit too close to the doorframe, so tweeters on coax speakers can have clearance issues. I cut some spacers to keep the woofer cones from hitting the metal of the door, and I did have to drill holes in the door frame. But beyond that, they mounted up great! I even got the added strength of machine screws and nuts to hold them on.

My setup, for those that care to know: Alpine 9813 HU, T420 and T340 amps, BA 6.5" Pro components, 5.25" Rally coaxes, BA Comp Series 10" sub.

Now if I could just finish the install....

Zen
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Old 08-16-2003, 10:06 AM   #9
Silver-Bolt
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Great info, thank you.
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Old 08-17-2003, 12:42 AM   #10
imminence
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Quote:
Originally posted by ldivinag


damn dude...

you gotta lemme check that amp...

where are you in no cal?

i just got a refurb SS REF 604 going as 3 channels...
I'm in San Francisco.
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