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Old 08-28-2003, 11:02 AM   #26
garface
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What exactly is SubaruBond, get that from the dealer? So use that to glue the rubber sheet to the cap itself correct? Where did the ziptie come in, can't picture it unless the sheet of rubber was hanging down. As far as the WRX radiator, it doesn't fit without moving the AC lines, I don't even know how to go about changing their location. If you have any hints please let me know. Thanks.
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Old 08-28-2003, 11:42 AM   #27
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Here's my radiator setup. I used a seheet of aluminum to act as a shroud and bracket to hold the top portion of the radiator to the frame.


What AC lines are you talking about?
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Old 08-28-2003, 12:16 PM   #28
garface
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Wow, that diamond plate is a good idea. So it acts as a radiator shroud as well as a top bracket for the radiator, and a bit of dressup. I like that. I was told the AC lines are in the way of the radiator, I believe they are on the side, unless that is something else. I saw some hard metal lines coming out from the passenger side of the radiator, right next to it. The other thing is I have very little room between the fans and the belt, like maybe an inch. Won't the WRX radiator come even closer to the engine or is the extra thickness accomodated another way? Stimpy mentioned that the fans have a different wattage rating, do I have to do something about that or was he just mentioning it? Thanks again, you've been a big help.

Last edited by garface; 08-28-2003 at 12:30 PM.
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Old 08-28-2003, 01:32 PM   #29
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I meant nothing by the different wattages on the radiator fans. Just something I found kind of interesting is all.

If you swap the radiator for an entire WRX radiator, then you will have to deal with mounting points and incompatible radiator fan plugs. You should be able to bolt your existing fans up to a WRX radiator, but I haven't tested this yet. The width of the radiator caps where the fans bolt up should be approximately the same between all the different radiators so it shouldn't be any closer than it is now.

Subarubond is a liquid gasket sold by Subaru. It's $30 for a tube of it though. I just bought some for my oilpan. Has a potent odor too.

-Jon
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Old 08-28-2003, 06:40 PM   #30
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I put this in there as a temp fix(pic). I got it at home depot and cut it into little donuts 1/16th inch thick. I tried to put two but it wouldn't screw back on. So I just put one and it was a struggle to get it on. That sucker is on there tight. Do you think that this stuff will hold up to the temp and pressure? It seems tougher than the stock rubber gasket that's in the cap, but it's hard to tell. It's from the plumbing section, I assume it's to make gaskets, possibly to put under fixtures and toilets, but I don't know. Let me know if you think it'll hold. I just did a few highway runs to redline and it's dry as a daisy.





Any thoughts? Thank you, especially TaiChih for the rubber sheet idea.
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Old 08-29-2003, 08:31 AM   #31
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Oh, I see what you are talking about. The AC coolant core stays put and the WRX radiator should fit (or swap out). The thickness between an RS and WRX is of the coolant core, not the size of the end tanks.
I would highly suggest using the WRX fans with the radiator, unless you feel comfortable cutting up some plastic brackets and making a couple new support brackets for the radiator.

garface- You're welcome.

tip- IF you just stick with the rubber/cap idea, make sure you periodically check to make sure the coolant doesn't eat away at the rubber seal, as I have no clue what type of rubber it is. I guess you'll find out when you start to blow steam out of the hood. Also, I suggest swapping out radiators because of the coolant ability of one over the other. Better safe then sorry, over over heated.
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Old 08-29-2003, 09:43 AM   #32
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I think I'm going to try to source a JDM GC8 radiator. I figure that should be a direct fit and it'll get rid of the stupid cap.
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Old 08-29-2003, 11:58 AM   #33
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Good luck with that one garface. I looked around for a little while and gave up shortly thereafter. Hence the reason I'm trying to fit a PWR radiator in my car.

-Jon
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Old 08-29-2003, 01:55 PM   #34
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well, the good thing about the PWR radiator is that it is aluminum and you can have that RS radiator cap neck welded shut. I would not recommend the WRX radiator, cuz that would mean you will still need to modify the mounting points.
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Old 08-29-2003, 02:11 PM   #35
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There is no PWR radiator made for the GC chassis. The only ones that I am aware of are the Koyo at ~$600 (special order and still has fill neck), the C&R at ~$600 (stocked but still has fill neck) and the MRT at $~500 (special order from MRT of AU).

-Jon
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Old 08-29-2003, 11:31 PM   #36
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well sorry I miss understood your problem hear. I;m running my EJ20 with the two radiator caps but the WRX cap is blocked off and the hoses are corked. That way the only cap in use is the one on my radiator.
Take it easy, Micah
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Old 09-27-2004, 07:19 PM   #37
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I'm going to dig up an old topic and post a bit more on the big WRX radiator in the GC/GF chassis.

I did get my 2002+ WRX PWR radiator to mount in my chassis. It uses the same lower mounting points as the previous years. The upper radiator mounts are in completely different locations so a custom mount is needed. By using custom mounts, you no longer have a location for your hood prop when it is down.

To mount the fans, you have to use 2002+ WRX fans as the fan locating pins and mounting screws are in different places. If you use the WRX fans, then you need to use the coolant overflow tank because the contours are different. The connectors on the WRX fans are the exact same as the older chassis, so no electrical work was needed.

The WRX upper radiator hose needs trimming because the older chassis is shorter. It can only be trimmed on the radiator side because trimming on the engine side will bring it closer to the power steering pump pulley and the alternator pulley. Once trimmed, the middle of the upper radiator must be pulled up and towards the radiator fans to avoid both the radiator fan and the alternator pulley.

With everything much closer, the passenger side fan actually conflicts with upper headshield on the passenger side exhaust manifold. Trimming this is required. After this has been trimmed, it is also required to trim one of the fan supports since it conflicts with the oil cooler coolant pipe. With this all out of the way, the radiator, with fans mounted, will carefully drop into place with some wiggling. To mount the WRX coolant overflow tank, the locating pin must be located as close to the radiator as possible. With this trimmed and installed, there is less than 1/8" between the timing belt cover and the coolant overflow tank.

I went over all these issues as I was reinstalling these pieces after an engine swap. What sent me over the edge was when I got the radiator all the way in place and I went to install the drain **** on the radiator, the drainplug was located too close to the front of the radiator and it was hitting the frame rail when all the way out. Radiator removal was then needed to install the drain plug.

I have pulled all of these parts out and am going to sell them. In the meantime, while I seek out a better solution, I'm just going to use my 1996 radiator with a 2004 WRX radiator cap. Perhaps using an OEM WRX radiator may work, but with a core nearly 3" thick, there is just not enough room in there to fit everything and little things compound to end with a poor fit.

-Jon
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Old 09-27-2004, 09:25 PM   #38
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I bought an aluminum radiator from Japan for my 96 WRX.
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Old 09-29-2004, 10:58 AM   #39
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here's another thought. i haven't tried this yet, but it ought to work.

if you gut a cap, then there will be a little disk left that a guy could probably braze shut. hell, it might even be possible to use some pipe solder, and a propane torch to do it. it will hold the 16 psi or whatever the sytem requires, no problem, and will be water and air tight.

i should try this, and see if it works. it would be a lot like sweating a pipe fitting.

one of these days when i get some time, i'll give it a shot and see.

--r
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Old 09-29-2004, 12:55 PM   #40
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With the stock radiator cap, I pulled the spring and plunger off. Then using a dremel and cutoff wheel, cut the remaining metal piece under the cap down to where it is basically a flat washer to hold the OEM rubber washer in place and let the coolant flow by without restriction. Hope that makes sense? Works great.
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Old 09-29-2004, 12:58 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stimpy
There is no PWR radiator made for the GC chassis. The only ones that I am aware of are the Koyo at ~$600 (special order and still has fill neck), the C&R at ~$600 (stocked but still has fill neck) and the MRT at $~500 (special order from MRT of AU).

-Jon

go here.... I got my Koyo radiator here, great price and the locations of the inlet/outlet should be the same for the 2.5L
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Old 09-30-2004, 11:57 PM   #42
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I used a MRT/PWR radiator.
I tricked Hndatch627 and 8complex into hacking up the mounting points on my L to get it to fit. Both fans are on the unit and its all holding. I do suggest checking contacts and grounds when you put the new unit in. My has weird fuse blowing issues I am guessing is from a bad ground somewhere in the system.

http://homepage.mac.com/importedgrey/PhotoAlbum15.html

Sorry I don't have a good image nor am I technical enough to explain what they cut. But basically the shroud over the radiator became the new bracket to hold it all togeather.
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Old 10-01-2004, 10:42 AM   #43
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It doesn't look like they hacked anything. They just made an mount out of the ducting utilizing the WRX mounting points on the radiator and the L mounting points onthe chassis. I considered doing the same.

-Jon
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Old 10-01-2004, 10:52 AM   #44
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mine just droped right in...I just had to trim the hoses a little because it was closer

some pics here
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Old 10-03-2004, 10:03 AM   #45
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I'm running an '02 WRX radiator set up as a couple others are. I did mod the fan housings to clear the exhaust manifold, drilled new mounting holes for the upper radiator brackets and the cut the radiator side of the uper rad hose to clear (barely) the PS pulley nut. I think if you used a Samco silicone hose you'll gain a bit more space as they look a bit smaller in diameter to me.

We also used the WRX fans and just rewired them w/the OBS connectors. We only wired in the wire for the AC relay so the fans turn on when the AC is on.

The fans typically don't turn on when the car gets warm. She's never shown signs of overheating but I don't want to take the chance in the long run so I need to find a long term solution to this issue.

I didn't realize that the fans were different wattage so I might see about either wiring the other wire inline to see if it kicks the fans on or putting the OBS fans back in. Perhaps some FAL fans in the future...

I'l take some pics today as I'm installing my 4 pots today.

-mykr.
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Old 10-03-2004, 10:48 AM   #46
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I used a stock WRX rad (modified fan housings that all...)
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Old 10-05-2004, 12:14 AM   #47
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scooby slack it doesn't look like you have the air seporater tank that is causing the issue for everyone else. Or do you have it and you have moved it off of the manifold?
I'm still using my original 1.8 radiator with the plunger/spring removed from the cap on the radiator and so far it has been fine.

What might work well is the RS koyo radiator with a nipple welded on near the filler neck that you could run a line from the air seporator tank to it. Similar to how the WRX rad is.Or maybe the nipple shouldn't be placed near the filler neck?
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Old 10-05-2004, 08:46 AM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by suberboy
scooby slack it doesn't look like you have the air seporater tank that is causing the issue for everyone else. Or do you have it and you have moved it off of the manifold?

I'm still using my original 1.8 radiator with the plunger/spring removed from the cap on the radiator and so far it has been fine.
air seporater tank? not sure what you mean

your 1.8L radiator will be fine until you run it really hard, I never had a problem until I went to a road course

BTW: I'll be out there in SLC at the end of the month
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Old 10-05-2004, 09:40 AM   #49
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a small coolant container that is bolted to passanger side intake manifold that has the coolant fill cap on it. It is on all of the Subaru turbo motors, except yours, that I've seen

let me know when you are in SLC so we can get together.

-Noah
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Old 10-07-2004, 01:39 AM   #50
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I'm gonna make a note of this thread, i'm sure I'll run into this problem at some point..the Koyo radiator seems like the easiest solution, although a little expensive.
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