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Old 09-05-2003, 11:49 AM   #1
skybluedoc
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Default Front Door Dynamat: Remove Plastic Rain Shield?

I'm sure that some of you have Dynamated your front doors to maximize the effectiveness of your speaker upgrades...has anyone done the entire panel? And did you replace the plastic rain-shield in the process? I'm worried about getting buzzing from the plastic sheet, but at the same time, it would be nice to keep everything as dry as the manufacturer designed it...

No chance of packing the door with foam, I guess. Looks like it would get water-logged in no time.
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Old 09-05-2003, 11:52 AM   #2
skybluedoc
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Also, what would you all recommend to reattach the plastic rain shield, if that is in fact what you did? Marine Goop? Automotive Duct Tape? Something else?

Wish I were still in San Diego where rain simply does not happen...
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Old 09-05-2003, 02:35 PM   #3
PARANOID56
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Just take the plastic off, and put dynamat over it, thatís what most people do. That way the mat has something to stick to (metal) not the plastic. Since itís made out of a rubberized asphalt substance, it will repel water.
Shane
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Old 09-05-2003, 07:05 PM   #4
skybluedoc
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it seems like it would be impossible to dynamat everything that is covered with plastic, such as the door handle assemblies, the switches on the interior door panel, etc.

i suppose i am asking if people have had problems with removing the plastic rain shield and not replacing it. it seems like it would be pretty easy for water to affect the window/mirror switches in the door panel if the shield were not to be replaced.
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Old 09-05-2003, 09:13 PM   #5
godof12v
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what i have done that works pretty well is pull the vapor barrier back but leave the one side that is to the outside of the door still attached. pull it to the out side of the door and take a piece of masking tape to hold it there while you dynamat. i try to stay in between the contact points of the original black goop that hold the vapor barrier. if you do the exposed metal and inside the door it will be pretty dead. you are correct that the vapor barrier can vibrate with the new sound deadening but what you can do once you put it back on is take some good duct tape and while your system is playing put strips of tape on the rattling plastic to make the material heavier. i would definitely put the vapor barrier back on though. good luck
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Old 09-06-2003, 01:42 AM   #6
skybluedoc
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thanks.

thats exactly what i needed to hear. i appreaciate the advice and i'll let you all know how it goes.
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Old 09-06-2003, 05:28 PM   #7
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Quote:
it seems like it would be impossible to dynamat everything that is covered with plastic
No, it's pretty straightforward, just take off the plastic sheet and use it as a guide for where to put holes for door lock rods, etc. As noted above, your dynamat or equiv is at least as good a moisture barrier as the sheet, so don't bother messing with putting the sheet back on; just make sure you've got good seals at the overlaps between different pieces of dynamat or equiv.
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Old 09-07-2003, 10:28 AM   #8
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I was thinking of getting the dynamat extreme door kit.

For those that have used dynamat: Can you tell me how effective it is for sound quality? Is it worth the $90 for the kit?

Does it improve the bass from whatever speakers you choose for the front doors?

-curious consumer
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Old 09-07-2003, 08:55 PM   #9
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The brand-name "dynamat extreme" itself is overpriced, go for a cheaper clone. It'll help with making the door closing sound better, it should help with bass if everything is covered.
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Old 09-09-2003, 02:28 PM   #10
darms
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This is how i done mine....







hope it helps
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Old 09-09-2003, 03:18 PM   #11
skybluedoc
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holy cow!

that is a great looking install; i ordered Raammat60 this morning (hot in new orleans, i figured that the reflective surface would be a nice bonus), and was trying to envision how i would approach the openings, how much of the outer-most door panel to cover, how close i might get to the mounting screws and handle-mechanisms, etc.

and POW, you post a great-looking picture of an install on the front doors.

what i'm thinking now is that i'm going to re-install a patch of vapor-barrier only large enough to isolate the door mechanism into the outer door, and mat the rest of the holes after i've done the inside of the door.

but i'll tell you, that install looks so good i'm tempted to just screw the vapor barrier all together. except for the fact that my cross-overs will be sitting out in the open.

any thoughts on installing the cross-overs on the finished door (not interior panel), and sealing them with 6mil plastic sheet? how much heat will they generate controlling a pair of components at 80W? that way i can just forget about water problems...

thanks for the pics.
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Old 09-09-2003, 03:26 PM   #12
skybluedoc
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by the way...

how difficult was it to get the matting up inside the door?

and did you have any problems re-installing the door handle mechanism on top of the mat? i know that it only adds a couple of mms, but does the handle fit back into the interior panel as well as it did before?

what product did you use? it looks really flexible. i can't imagine that any foil-covered material will go on as cleanly as that...
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Old 09-09-2003, 03:28 PM   #13
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any pics of the rear door?
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Old 09-09-2003, 04:51 PM   #14
armand1
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Your bass will be improved and road noise reduced if you also cover at least the 3 main holes: up front by the green connectors and in back where the door latch/lock rods go and the big one in the bottom right corner.
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Old 09-09-2003, 11:57 PM   #15
darms
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skybluedoc

Thanks for the + comments mate

Infact I've only recently done the front doors, would you believe me I'm still driving round without any door panels on cos I can't decide which speakers to go for.

I opted for a non branded sound proofing pads, rather than Dynamat, but it aint easy believe me mate. It took 1 day per door! alot heating up the pads and moulding.

RE the inside of the door skin......it was a bi7ch. Not to mention feeding the 12awg speaker cable through the existing tubing into the doors. Nice Stealth look guys.

Haven't done the rear doors yet or boot, but boy it makes a hell of a difference driving and shutting the doors.....what a thud can't wait to here the speakers in there......(Thinking about some Boston Pro6.5 in the fronts and some Boston NX67 in the rear with my Boston Pro10.5 sub )

editied : removing the door opending bar was a easy by the way
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Old 09-12-2003, 04:12 PM   #16
RockdaOBS
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Default speaker installs

ok so if you are going to change your stock speakers for after markets, more than likely the new ones are going to extend past the drip cover/spacer ring, i found this out hte hard way, i got a nice set of MB Quarts hoping they would fit but they're just too big, if your new speaks do extend past look into getting some foam baffels from www.crutchfield.com i now have to return my mbq's, but i think i'm going to go with polks or kenweed excelons, atleast that's what crutchfield says will fit my fronts.

hope this is a good pointer to some of you

-Mike
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