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Old 09-19-2003, 12:05 AM   #1
SubaH6
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Default Autoshift resistor, where is it on the car?

Does anybody know where to locate the auto shift resistor that controls the voltage to the auto shift pressure?

Where exactly on the car is it located?

I think Ciper and Legacy777 had some posts to Legacy Central BBS forum some time back regardng this issue. Ciper had changed the resistor and got the auto shift to work faster. Do you know where the resistor is Ciper?
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Old 09-19-2003, 08:40 AM   #2
Legacy777
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Don't touch the resistor, you need something there to control the line pressure. Without it, line pressure gets maxed out at idle, which is bad.

I had mine unplugged for only a little bit, and even after plugging it in, my tranny was never the same, it would always hesitate down shifting into third gear....and still does to this day.

Ciper did a bit of studying on it. Try searching for it, and something should pop up.
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Old 09-21-2003, 09:22 PM   #3
SubaH6
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Legacy777,

I'm not going to remove it as I read your postings about it ruining your transmission. The idea from Ciper is to increase the resistance to about 15 ohms from the current 10 ohms to give a slightly faster shift. I would just like to know where the resistor is. I know you need a 25 to 50 watt resistir for replacement. Please tell me where the resistor is.
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Old 09-22-2003, 08:45 AM   #4
Legacy777
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On my car the resistor is on the passenger front strut tower.

In this pic, you can see the resistor on the strut tower
http://www.main.experiencetherave.co.../mafsensor.jpg

here's pic of the casing.
http://www.main.experiencetherave.co...yresistor1.jpg
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Old 09-22-2003, 11:45 PM   #5
SubaH6
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Thank you Legacy777.

I'll go and have a look for it.
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Old 10-14-2003, 06:10 PM   #6
svxr8dr
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Did you find it?
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Old 10-14-2003, 06:48 PM   #7
PHATsuby
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i am interested as well to know how things turned out and what you found out. did raising the resitance quicken the shifts?

also legacy777, i am currently getting my valvebody and TC upgraded. But my mechanic and i had the idea of putting in a switch so that when i hit boost it would remove the resistor giving me full line pressure. would this be good, bad? we were thinking this would also help quicken the shifts and increase holding power. RS-T people are saying they are not having any issues with their trannies(4EAT) at 6psi, but i experienced slipping at 6 myself, is this due to the increase in weight or do they maybe have a higher resistor to shift quicker?

please let me know if you have any ideas, i will search for ciper's post when i get home but right now i am at class. haha, now i know why i am failing.

Ben

editk, apparently we cant use the helpful search function right now

Last edited by PHATsuby; 10-14-2003 at 07:01 PM.
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Old 10-15-2003, 09:47 AM   #8
Legacy777
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Ben,

One of the big issues I think ciper brought up is having full line pressure all the time. That's what screws stuff up.

If you were able to rig a switch up that would cause a short or open circuit in the tranny resistor line ONLY at certain times, or only when boost is above 4 psi, I think that might work. Still couldn't tell you the long term effects though, or if it would truly work the way you want, but so far that sounds like more promising idea.

You do mention that your tranny is slipping.... Is this during shifts, what does it feel like.....sort of a pause where the engine feels disconnected from everything? Between what gear shifts are they most prevelant?

I'm not sure what your mechanic is doing to your valve body, but I would suggest having him put in the following shift kit from transgo.

The kit is meant to go in when the tranny is rebuilt, but you can do some of the work on just the valve body.

http://www.txchange.com/sk.htm#Import
SK® RE4R01A

Nissan RE4R01A, RL4R01A Mazda R4AX-EL, Subaru 4 speed ECAT, Nissan – Infinity – Truck - SUV V8 RE4R03A, Isuzu Diesel JR403

1988up 4 speed with or without lockup
Corrects/Prevents/Reduces:
Planetary burnup; 3rd clutch failure; forward clutch burnup Soft 1-2 shift; 2-3 cutloose; Band burnout and low lube flow causing overheating and total burnup


Probably the most noticable increase with this kit was the 1-2 shift. It takes the accumulator out of the mix. The 1-2 shift is firm & fast. I still have issues with the 2-3 and/or the 3-4 shift. Don't remember which one is worse. But a lot of the reasoning for that is probably due to the brake band wearing too much and things not stopping/starting exactly when they should. I'm not sure if they make "upgraded" brake bands, but that may be an option as well.

If it were me.....I'd probably just get everything back together and see how things work, and then make the decision to play with the resistor. Like I mentioned in other threads and possibly this one. Unplugging that resistor has definitely caused permanant weirdness and problems with my tranny.

Josh
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Old 10-15-2003, 11:08 AM   #9
PHATsuby
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Quote:
You do mention that your tranny is slipping.... Is this during shifts, what does it feel like.....sort of a pause where the engine feels disconnected from everything? Between what gear shifts are they most prevelant?
yea thats exactly when it happens, it seems like the length of shift time is the main problem, if i can almost eliminate in between time on shifts then i think the problem would basically be solved, which is the point of the valvebody upgrade for the most part. the 1-2 shift is the worst, and i was afraid i had burnt my clutch packs possibly from just those few slips(people said i may have), but when we dropped the valvebody there was no metal or anything the oil pan so i hope its all good, plus when i put it in second and just floor it it doesnt seem to slip.

also, my mechanic is just replacing the parts, i am having level 10 do the valvebody work, and they wouldnt tell me what they do exactly, but i hope it solves the prob.

i will get everything back together and test it out before we play with the resistor, but we were thinking that dropping the resistor only under boost(i think 4psi is perfect as opposed to any boost) would probably help the shifts even more, because i think that would start fluid flowing where it is supposed to even faster and also help the holding of the power.

i myself figured that the tranny would go to full pressure under full acceleration anyways, but maybe thats not the case, or at least under partial acceleration its definitely not and i think i am confusing the tranny, obviously because it expects a certain load and i give it twice as much

but yea it is all speculation, everything should go back together thursday and i will let you know then. thanks for the comments and help.

Ben
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Old 10-15-2003, 11:57 AM   #10
JoeT
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Hey Ben,

Your Autronic ECU has analog outputs that can be used to flip a relay to break the circuit to the resistor, and it's completely programmable so you can choose how to trigger the opening of the circuit.

It can be done using TPS or Boost, or a combination of both, or whatever your heart desires... Each programmable output has a table that you can fill in. By now, I'm sure you know how to do that...

See ya.
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Old 10-15-2003, 12:13 PM   #11
PHATsuby
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Joe!

i was wondering when you were gonna help me out

outputS? i was only aware of the one auxilary output? is there more than one? because i am using the output to control boost right now, so i dont think i can, but dang that is a good idea that would be sweet.

thanks man, feel free to message me on msn if you want when you arent busy, cause i never know when you are actually there

thanks again

Ben
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Old 10-15-2003, 01:06 PM   #12
JoeT
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The SMC has 8 injector outputs, which you are using only 4, 3 remaining injector outputs can be used as Auxilliary outputs. Not to mention the real Aux output that's you are currently using for your boost control.

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Old 10-15-2003, 06:09 PM   #13
PHATsuby
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you just blew my mind, lol

we will have to discuss.

thanks a ton.

Ben
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Old 10-15-2003, 06:58 PM   #14
Legacy777
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Ben,

What's your mechanic replacing on the tranny?

I would probably recommend replacing the brake band. That is going to have a bigger effect on shifting. The individual clutch packs are going to affect actual slipping under power, not during shifting.

Hopefully level 10 has heard of that transgo shift kit and does something similar for the 1-2 shift. For me, that was the most noticable improvement with the transgo shift kit. 1-2 shift is amazingly crisp.
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Old 10-16-2003, 12:45 AM   #15
PHATsuby
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Josh,

my mechanic isnt replacing any of the parts, he just assisted in taking out the TC and valve body, i could have done the TC but i didnt have the tools and didnt want to mess with dropping the whole tranny so i had to pay someone else to do it. so he is just doing the disassembly reassembly portion, not any actual work inside the tranny.

i will let you know how it feels, everything should go back on tomorrow.

Ben
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Old 10-16-2003, 08:37 AM   #16
Legacy777
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cool....let us know how it turns out.
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Old 10-16-2003, 06:35 PM   #17
SubaH6
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svxr8dr,

No I couldn't find the resistor. My car is an Outback H6, so it maybe different, although the transmission is the same I'm sure. The Outback H6 has a three position swich for the transmisson so as you can switch between "power mode", "normal mode" and "hold mode". I don't know if the WRX's have these switch positions and this may explain the difference and why I can't find the resistor. All I know is that the transmission is not so good when changing down when you want to give it a boot full to get it going. It should be better than this IMHO. The H6 motor is an absolute gem but is mated to a smooth but not so fast transmission.
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