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Old 09-20-2003, 01:53 AM   #1
STEALTH-WRX
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Default Which exact spark plugs to get for my motor. 1,2,3 steps colder. Also Oil Question

I want to know what spark plugs to get for my car. I read somewhere that for ever 100 wheel hp over stock you want to go 1 step colder. Should I go 2 or 3 steps colder. Also what gap do I need. I dont want the crazy expensive plugs that are $15 a piece. I am looking for the regular NGK ones or comparable. I want to get about 10 sets so i can change them out ever oil change. (2000 miles). Also should I change to synthetic oil eventually. I was just going to stay with my Castrol 10-30 and change it every 2000. Does anyone know any realistic benifits of changing to synthetic.
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Old 09-20-2003, 01:55 AM   #2
STEALTH-WRX
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Here is the set up again.

EJ22 closed deck block
EJ25 crank
Iron Bigger Bore Sleeves
Custom Forged Rods
JE Forged Pistons
ARP Head Studs
Heads done by DPR
Fully ported and polished heads
STI valvesprings and retainers
STI tvg housings
PE 800 cc injectors
Perrin Fuel Rails (Custom Fuel Lines, Perrin lines suck!)
Aeroquip Lines and Fittings
GT SPEC Turbo Manifold (Ceramic Coated)
Custom Up Pipe (Ceramic Coated)
Garrett TO4R Turbo (Ceramic Coated)
Tial 40 mm wastegate
310 LPH Denso Fuel Pump
Speedmonkee Radiator
Perrin Hose
Custom Air/Water Intercooler made by me (Ceramic Coated)
Custom 3.5 gallon Water Tank made by me ( Ceramic Coated)
Custom Heat exchanger made by me
Meziere 20GPM Water Pump
NOS Wet Kit
4 Inch Custom Intake
Autronic Sm2 ECU
And some other stuff I am forgetting.







Last edited by STEALTH-WRX; 09-20-2003 at 12:21 PM.
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Old 09-20-2003, 02:29 AM   #3
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Jealosy, envy, they attack me...But then I hit em in the heart with sharp steel bookmarks. (this quote from a song popped into my head when I saw your setup)


Beautiful picture Stealth!!!. I can't wait to see some numbers on that setup.
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Old 09-20-2003, 02:40 AM   #4
Kegger
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What an awesome set up! The only thing I can see that is wrong with this picture are the tires. They look like the stock Bridgestone's. With that much power, you are going to need stickier tires. Other than that, this is probably the nicest set up in a WRX I've ever seen.
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Old 09-20-2003, 02:49 AM   #5
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Quote:
I was just going to stay with my Castrol 10-30 and change it every 2000. Does anyone know any realistic benifits of changing to synthetic.
Basicly, regular dino cooks at lower heat than synthetics so it will break down sooner.

Im useing neo now, and they are close to you. I have also used motul if its good enough for rally teams its good enough for my car. I wouldnt use anything over 40 might hurt spoll up but over 40 will live longer...

if you want to know more then you need to know about oil go to

http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php


I found this thread...

http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/...c;f=1;t=001981

Last edited by totoherbs; 09-20-2003 at 03:05 AM.
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Old 09-20-2003, 03:06 AM   #6
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But if he's changing oil EVERY 2000 miles, is there a real benefit to synthetic? I guess the only way to really know is to experiment, right? Assuming he gets the car properly tuned, his oil shouldn't cook off within 2K , or would it? FWIW, I started running Mobil 1 after 12K, I had no problems with castrol GTX changed at every 3K. But then again, my car is damned near stock.

I just finished my 30K tranny/oil change with mobil 1 and Redline 75w90NS in the tranny. So far so good.
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Old 09-20-2003, 03:22 AM   #7
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Maybe i will contact redline and see what they have to say. I will throw in a sponsorship proposal while i'm at it.
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Old 09-20-2003, 03:34 AM   #8
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You definately want to go at least 2 steps colder, and gap at the minimum recommended, especially if you are using the stock coils.

I'd highly recommend taking a few set of plugs with you, and a gapping tool to the dyno. At the power level you're shooting for, gapping will make a noticable difference in power, as well as smoothness in your dyno curve.

Synthetic definately helps. It has a higher shearing/tear strength than dino oil, allowing you to running a thinner weight oil (Mobil 1 zero weight) and therefore drastically reducing friction. I will bet money Zero weight Mobil 1 will make power on the dyno.

Also, I don't know how good the windage tray is in your engine, but running up to .75 quarts low has been shown to make 2% crank horse power due to less oil spray drag on the crank.

Problem is, you really want at least 7k miles on your engine until you switch to Synthetic. You want your engine to properly "loosen up" with dino oil... but everyone knows that.
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Old 09-20-2003, 03:37 AM   #9
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Hey matt. do you think i should upgrade my coils to the spec c coil packs. A good friend of mine has them to sell. They are different part numbers.
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Old 09-20-2003, 03:38 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally posted by STEALTH-WRX
Hey matt. do you think i should upgrade my coils to the spec c coil packs. A good friend of mine has them to sell. They are different part numbers.
I have no idea. I know knowing about Subarus.
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Old 09-20-2003, 03:41 AM   #11
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Oh, I just noticed DPR did your heads? Do you know exactly who ported them?
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Old 09-20-2003, 03:43 AM   #12
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I heard alot of bad stuff about him and his work. He did the work himself. I watched him do alot of it. He also showed me pictures of the step by step process. I check everything from the vavle seats, to the chamber volume, to each cylinders porting. I would not do it again.
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Old 09-20-2003, 03:45 AM   #13
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I had one major problem with my heads, but i will talk to you about that in person.
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Old 09-20-2003, 03:48 AM   #14
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Quote:
Also, I don't know how good the windage tray is in your engine, but running up to .75 quarts low has been shown to make 2% crank horse power due to less oil spray drag on the crank.
The problem with that is if your going to do road racing. Where you would want to run as much as you can in the pan to help save from oil stavation. BMW guys have been doing it for years...


Quote:
Originally posted by 8Complex
The natural "full" oil level of the pan is still 1-1.5" below the flange of the oil pan. The pickup is probably 1/2-1" off the bottom of the pan. There is a baffle of sorts at about 2-2.5" up from the bottom, and another one about 1-1.5" down from the flange edge.

Overfilling it should be ok, but I thought there were issues with something like that with oil sloshing into the actual cylinders and causing either massive amounts of oil to go by the rings or bogging due to the cylinders having to push that much oil around....
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...54#post4632454
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Old 09-20-2003, 03:54 AM   #15
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Dan used to have a Genius working for him... but I can't for the life of me remember his name... Tall skinny Hispanic guy with bad skin... Was wondering if he had his own shop or was working for Dan again.

He ported the heads in my buddy's 2 valve 5mge supra engine, you know the one that does 8's.
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Old 09-20-2003, 03:56 AM   #16
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I think mine in particular is really good now. I had an error fixed but i think it will be good now. Was the guys name Joe Alaniz?
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Old 09-20-2003, 04:25 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally posted by STEALTH-WRX
I think mine in particular is really good now. I had an error fixed but i think it will be good now. Was the guys name Joe Alaniz?




http://www.alaniztechnologies.com/company.html
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Old 09-20-2003, 05:21 AM   #18
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wow, looks awesome!
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Old 09-20-2003, 05:00 PM   #19
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I love this pic, but isn't either the exhaust manifold or the intake manifold backwards? According to that pic the throttle body is facing the front of the car(but not in the installed shot) or the header is wrapping around behind the engine which obviously wouldn't work. I think it's the header from looking at the heads, but could be wrong. Were you planning to do a front mount with reversed intake manifold?
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Old 09-20-2003, 06:23 PM   #20
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NGK heat range 7's would work. Gap them down to 026. Try to order then with a small gap to begin with. Its hard to find heat range 8 plugs. If you find some I would run the 8's. STI makes 8 heat range plugs for the Spec C cars but they are pricey. Do a search on Sparkplugs.com and just note the requirements of the stock plug as far as thread and reach. Then, Search on the site and find one that matches up. There is a company in CA that will rewind your coils for more spark. I cant remember the name. Ignition solutions or something... If I remember it I will PM you.



Clark
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Old 09-20-2003, 08:50 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally posted by AZScoobie
NGK heat range 7's would work. Gap them down to 026. Try to order then with a small gap to begin with. . . .

Clark
to clarify why buying them with a small gap is important:

when you bend metal, you introduce electrical resistance into it by breaking up larger crystals in the metal into smaller crystals. This is known as cold-working. The plugs that come from the factory with a small gap will have to be bent less and thus will have a very tiny bit better conductivity, which is good for the spark. It might not be even measurable but you know it's there and why not do it correctly anyway, since you're sourcing exactly the parts you want.

Very nice ride by the way!

-nick
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Old 09-20-2003, 09:43 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally posted by nhluhr


to clarify why buying them with a small gap is important:

when you bend metal, you introduce electrical resistance into it by breaking up larger crystals in the metal into smaller crystals. This is known as cold-working. The plugs that come from the factory with a small gap will have to be bent less and thus will have a very tiny bit better conductivity, which is good for the spark. It might not be even measurable but you know it's there and why not do it correctly anyway, since you're sourcing exactly the parts you want.

Very nice ride by the way!

-nick
I don't mean to come off sounding like a jerk, but you are joking right?

Do you realize there is a spring inside the coil pack that is the thinless of a ball point pen's that makes contact with the spark plug? Do you really think that bending the ground .008th of an inch is going to induce any kind of resistance what so ever?

The reason you want to start off with a small gap is to maintain parallel surfaces between ground and the center electrodes.
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Old 09-20-2003, 09:45 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally posted by garface



I love this pic, but isn't either the exhaust manifold or the intake manifold backwards? According to that pic the throttle body is facing the front of the car(but not in the installed shot) or the header is wrapping around behind the engine which obviously wouldn't work. I think it's the header from looking at the heads, but could be wrong. Were you planning to do a front mount with reversed intake manifold?
It's just a mock up. See the installed pictures up top?
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Old 09-20-2003, 11:16 PM   #24
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Thanks for going with me today Matt. I really appreciate the company. Measure your intake funnel to see if its 3 or 4 inches. I have made good progress tonight. However I am missing several things:

Viton O-ring for Tial BOV
Longer Silicon Hose from turbo to Intercooler
Fuel Pressure Gauge
Some other small Crap.

If i can find my O-ring I will start the car up tomorrow.

Cant Wait.
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