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Old 01-14-2001, 09:49 AM   #1
Bassem
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Member#: 305
Join Date: Sep 1999
Location: PA, USA
Post Removal off tar mats

hi all, i'm in the process of gutting my car. i need some advice on the removal of the tar/asphalt mats that they place under the rug to help sound deadening. these are the 4-5mm thick mats that are placed on the inside in the floorpan and around the tranny tunnel.

the advice i got from a refinisher is a hammer and a putty knife and lots of patience. the hammer to crack the mat, the putty knife to remove chunks at a time. the issue is i do not want to scratch the paint of the floorpan. perhaps this is an issue with stereo guys, who love sound deadening materials, but i doubt they remove the stock stuff though. i will post this there as well. moderators, remove if you think this is ot, mkay?

thanks in advance,
bassem
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Old 01-14-2001, 10:40 AM   #2
suby2nr
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Join Date: Aug 2000
Chapter/Region: SCIC
Location: Rancho Santa Margarita, Ca, US
Vehicle:
2002 WRX
Black

Post

Heat may help.

Ed
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Old 01-14-2001, 10:49 AM   #3
Die Civic
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Member#: 3301
Join Date: Dec 2000
Location: Queens, New York
Vehicle:
2001 RS
Aspen White

Post

yes heat gun, LOTS AND LOTS OF PATIENCE, and a chisle or a spackle something of that sort, did that to my gsr when I had it and if you heat it, it wont scratch the paint, but if u just go away shavin off the tar, it'll def penetrate the paint/metal.
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Old 01-14-2001, 11:37 AM   #4
Dowie
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Join Date: Nov 2000
Location: Weymouth, MA - USA
Thumbs up

How abour using dry ice. I've heard and read that putting the dry ice on the mat will make it become brittle and very easy to remove.
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Old 01-14-2001, 01:48 PM   #5
Die Civic
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2001 RS
Aspen White

Post

nope, but the pain the a$$ is, you have to have two people (makes it easier) one person to strip away the tar, while the other holding the heat gun. this would make the job a lot faster and cleaner.
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Old 01-14-2001, 01:51 PM   #6
VaporTrail
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Member#: 2398
Join Date: Sep 2000
Location: Tampa, FL USA
Arrow

I posted this on www.honda-tech.org in the FI forum. Figured I'd copy and paste for you scoobie owners:

Damn, I wish I could sell discoveries I make. Alas, I can't, so I'll just tell the whole world, and hopefully one day I'll get something in return...
Dry Ice. Depending on the car, you'll need 30-45lbs of the stuff. Don't worry, it's very cheap, like .50 - a dollar a pound, depending on where you are.

Application: You'll want to pick the stuff up, and bring it home immediately for use. Set aside 2-4 hours for the job. Simply take the blocks of dry ice, slap on some thick gloves (this stuff gives SERIOUS frost bite...quick!), and pound the stuff into nickel sized pieces. From here, spread it directly onto the affected areas. You'll want about a 1.5 to 2 inch layer of it, but don't worry about using too much of it, it lasts somewhat longer than regular ice, and you can reuse it when you are done. Let it sit on the area for 10-15 minutes, longer if it is very hot outside, preferably with the doors closed to prevent dissipation of the ice. After the time has passed, break out your chisels.

Removal: Make sure you've got some ventilation here. Chisel at a edge of the sound deadening material. If it has been long enough, it should pop up in large, hard, brittle chunks. If not, let it sit longer. Eventually, it will come up, and come up very easily! It will leave no residue, but if you are leaving your carpet out, careful with the chisel scratching the paint underneath (if any is there, there usually is).

The above technique works great, the fastest way that I've found. It sounds much more difficult than it actually is. The only downside is the cost (which is minor), locating the dry ice, and the fumes that come off the stuff, which make it difficult to see what you're doing . The only other downside is that the dry ice technique is difficult to apply to inverted areas, in which case you'll have to hold it on there, or try the alternate technique. If you look in the phone book, you can usually locate a place that produces dry ice (which is harmless frozen carbon dioxide), or you can try calling 555-NEED or information. A local meat packing plant could also steer you in the right direction

Alternate technique: This way sucks, but it's the only alternative.

You'll need: A heat gun, a chisel, 2-3 gallons of Goof Off or Goo Gone (or similar product) scrubber pads, lots of rags, and about 12 hours to do an entire car.

Heat gun the stuff til it's easy to move - it should turn almost liquid. Don't over do it though. When you are done, there will be residue. From here, simply pour on the Goof Off, which will basically dissolve it, however using it on large amounts makes a larger mess, and start scrubbing with with your pads. You'll then have to soak up the Goof Off with your rags. When you're done, use Castrol Super Purple (or equivelent) to clean up anything that's left of the Goof Off.

The end result (if done properly) of both methods is the same - a very clean surface. However, the dry ice technique is by far the easiest. The entire process may seem fruitless, but on my CRX, I was able to remove 17lbs of worthless weight!

Have fun, and remember me when you are done!
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Old 01-14-2001, 02:03 PM   #7
Bassem
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Location: PA, USA
Post

Thanks man, really appreciate the help. its good to get it from someone who has done it before. thanks again, and of course to all who responded.

bassem
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Old 01-14-2001, 02:09 PM   #8
gavin
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Location: Portland, OR USA
Vehicle:
2005 GT LTD Wagon
Garnet Red

Post

You used to be able to get dry ice from Baskin Robbins.
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Old 01-15-2001, 12:36 AM   #9
Bassem
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Member#: 305
Join Date: Sep 1999
Location: PA, USA
Post

do you remember what heat range (temps) you used on the heat gun?

dry ice would help i think if i went with the hammer and putty knife method i guess.

bassem
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