I just stripped the hex off a lug

Sonic Yellow 2K3 WRX · 11-11-2003, 08:40 PM

(the hex is completely rounded) what's the best way to get it off now...without damaging my rims?

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Bottom Feeder · 11-11-2003, 09:39 PM

I know Sears makes some kind of packaged set of nut removers. You basically hammer this thing on (I think) and use a ratchet to take it off. This may not work if your wheel doesn't have a lot of clearance around the lug hole.

Silly question: How did you do this?

kenchan · 11-12-2003, 01:21 AM

is it completely rounded or do you have some rounded shoulders?

my buddy and i hammered in a socket 1mm smaller and
was able to take out the lug that way on his stripped lug.

just be careful not to break the stud.

Corn-Picker · 11-12-2003, 08:00 PM

You need a bolt extractor...

I would also suggest a toque wrench:

Overtightening lugnuts helps to warp your rotors. Follow the specifications in the owner's manual for the correct torque.

KoneKiller · 11-13-2003, 11:06 AM

bolt/nut extractor

IronMonkeyL255 · 11-13-2003, 06:08 PM

Vice grips...

Worked for any bolt that wouldn't come off of Cam's car.....

bbbwrx · 11-13-2003, 10:58 PM

break off the stud and replace if all the above fails. or take it to a tire shop and have them deal with it.

BEN

BlackAndBlue · 11-14-2003, 04:36 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Corn-Picker
Overtightening lugnuts helps to warp your rotors. Follow the specifications in the owner's manual for the correct torque.

where is this in the owners manual?

leecea · 11-14-2003, 11:02 PM

It is not in the manual that comes with the car - at least it wasn't in mine. Most people seem to go with 70 ft/lbs. I believe it is specified in the service manuals.

Corn-Picker · 11-14-2003, 11:33 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by leecea
It is not in the manual that comes with the car - at least it wasn't in mine. Most people seem to go with 70 ft/lbs. I believe it is specified in the service manuals.

It is in the manual, it's somewhere in the instructions for changing tires, in reference to the spare I believe. IIRC, 70 ft-lbs is on the high end (or over) what Subaru recommends. I think the spec is 45-65 ft-lbs, but check the manual to make sure.

c_hunter · 11-14-2003, 11:44 PM

It's in my 2003 manual, page 9-13.

58-72 ft-lb. I set my wrench at 65 ft-lb.

Craig

IronMonkeyL255 · 11-15-2003, 12:46 PM

Same here.

Patrick L · 11-15-2003, 02:16 PM

You should also use antiseize on the studs.

Bottom Feeder · 11-15-2003, 06:43 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Top_Dog
You should also use antiseize on the studs.

No, you shouldn't. There was a pretty long thread about this recently.

Wheel studs should be clean and free of rust, but they shouldn't be lubricated at all. Doing so will throw off the reading on your torque wrench, which will cause you to overtighten your lugs by a pretty large amount. Bad idea.

Patrick L · 11-16-2003, 12:38 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Bottom Feeder
No, you shouldn't. There was a pretty long thread about this recently.

Wheel studs should be clean and free of rust, but they shouldn't be lubricated at all. Doing so will throw off the reading on your torque wrench, which will cause you to overtighten your lugs by a pretty large amount. Bad idea.

Show me

I can give you some reasons why you should. Aspecially if you take your wheels off and on regularly. First off, it will not make it miss read. If anything make it read more accurate. The problem is that with regular remove and reinstall. You rubber off metal off the nut and or stub and get build up which can cause the nut to seize and also throw off the reading on the torque wrench. The problem I see is people who use their torque wrenches improperly. The stufff I use has the high copper content.

bbbwrx · 11-16-2003, 02:44 AM

I will use anti size if mechanics have been doing it for ever then it can't be that bad or wrong.

BEN

Bottom Feeder · 11-16-2003, 12:56 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Top_Dog
Show me

Well, I looked, and for the life of me, I can't find the damn thread no matter what search terms I used. Go figure.

In a nutshell, someone chimed in on a thread about someone rotating their tires, saying the user should remember to lube the wheel studs. A few guys jumped all over that bit of advice (myself included), and Luke came up with the technical reasons why doing so is a really bad idea. Basically, torque values on wheel lugs and studs are determined when they're dry, not lubricated. Using those dry values an a lubed stud will cause you to overtighten the lugs, possibly stretching the stud beyond it's specs or damaging the wheel.

I really wish I could find that damned thread. Oh, well.

Infymus · 11-17-2003, 10:44 AM

I made it a policy with the Subaru Dealer that I use here in SLC - they are absolutely forbidden to touch my tires.

I do NOT know what it is with dealers but they torque the lugs down so hard I actually BROKE the tire-iron that comes with my WRX. I had to use a farkin hammer on the tire iron to get the lugs off they were on so tight. I'd say they used probably over 150lb to 200lb torque to stick them on. The manual says 65 to 72 ft lb of torque, but I'm sure the dealer has never read the manual.

I have no idea why, but now I forbid them from touching my tires. Personally I use a tire-iron to slightly tighten up then I use a torque wrench to apply the proper tightening.

Dang dealers and their air guns, they make the baby jehbus cry.

imprezzed · 11-17-2003, 12:39 PM

Quote:

Dang dealers and their air guns, they make the baby jehbus cry.

ehhhhhh no, it's not the air gun, it's the operator. I have a set of torque sticks that attatch to to the end of my gun and will basically tell the air gun to stop tightening at a predetermined value. I use an air gun all day at work and have never had any complaints. (I'm a subaru mechanic BTW) It's the people that don't know what they are doing with the air gun and turn the adjustment on the gun to "stun" and go to town on your nuts. Wait a minute that didn't come out right...

And no, you should not use anti sieze on lug nuts. I was told this directly from the regional Snap-On manager, who deals with many manufacturers and also sells a lot of torque wrenches.

You should however apply anti sieze to the mounting area on your brake rotors. (The flat area in between the studs when the wheel is off) This will prevent the wheel from rusting on, and make it easier to take off the next time.

Anywho...hope this helps
Jason

DISCOPOPE · 11-17-2003, 05:06 PM

nuts
torque
studs
lube....

wtheck is going on here...

alfaguy · 11-17-2003, 05:20 PM

When a manufacturer lists a torque specification, it is assumed to be on "dry" fasteners. If a lubricant or sealant is needed, it will be noted, i.e.:

54 lb/ft, oiled

or sometimes even the lubricant is specified:

54 lb/ft, MolyKote 752 Synthetic Grease

25 lb/ft, Wurth Threadlocker

If a fastener is torqued to it's "dry" torque spec with a lubricant, the actual stretching force applied to the fastener is far greater than intended.

11-11-2003, 08:40 PM	#1
Sonic Yellow 2K3 WRX Scooby Newbie Member#: 33236 Join Date: Feb 2003	I just stripped the hex off a lug (the hex is completely rounded) what's the best way to get it off now...without damaging my rims? * Registered users of the site do not see these ads.

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11-11-2003, 09:39 PM	#2
Bottom Feeder Scooby Specialist Member#: 2808 Join Date: Nov 2000 Chapter/Region: MAIC Location: Occupied Virginia	I know Sears makes some kind of packaged set of nut removers. You basically hammer this thing on (I think) and use a ratchet to take it off. This may not work if your wheel doesn't have a lot of clearance around the lug hole. Silly question: How did you do this?

11-12-2003, 01:21 AM	#3
kenchan Scooby Guru Member#: 15106 Join Date: Feb 2002	is it completely rounded or do you have some rounded shoulders? my buddy and i hammered in a socket 1mm smaller and was able to take out the lug that way on his stripped lug. just be careful not to break the stud.

11-12-2003, 08:00 PM	#4
Corn-Picker Scooby Specialist Member#: 8679 Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: Morgantown, WV Vehicle: 2010 The most hated vehicle on the internets	You need a bolt extractor... I would also suggest a toque wrench: Overtightening lugnuts helps to warp your rotors. Follow the specifications in the owner's manual for the correct torque.

11-13-2003, 11:06 AM	#5
KoneKiller Scooby Specialist Member#: 39191 Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: Houston Vehicle: 2004 WRX STi WRB Red 1990 Spec Miata	bolt/nut extractor

11-13-2003, 06:08 PM	#6
IronMonkeyL255 Scooby Specialist Member#: 38120 Join Date: Jun 2003 Chapter/Region: South East Location: Greenville, SC Vehicle: 1991 Rio Red Legacy Turbo	Vice grips... Worked for any bolt that wouldn't come off of Cam's car.....

11-13-2003, 10:58 PM	#7
bbbwrx Scooby Specialist Member#: 32734 Join Date: Feb 2003 Chapter/Region: RMIC	break off the stud and replace if all the above fails. or take it to a tire shop and have them deal with it. BEN

11-14-2003, 11:02 PM	#9
leecea Scooby Guru Member#: 37359 Join Date: May 2003 Vehicle: 2003 WRX	It is not in the manual that comes with the car - at least it wasn't in mine. Most people seem to go with 70 ft/lbs. I believe it is specified in the service manuals.

11-14-2003, 11:44 PM	#11
c_hunter Scooby Specialist Member#: 32434 Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Wmsbg, Virginia Vehicle: 05 Outback XT 5EAT Gold/Black	It's in my 2003 manual, page 9-13. 58-72 ft-lb. I set my wrench at 65 ft-lb. Craig

11-15-2003, 12:46 PM	#12
IronMonkeyL255 Scooby Specialist Member#: 38120 Join Date: Jun 2003 Chapter/Region: South East Location: Greenville, SC Vehicle: 1991 Rio Red Legacy Turbo	Same here.

11-15-2003, 02:16 PM	#13
Patrick L Scooby Specialist Member#: 634 Join Date: Dec 1999 Chapter/Region: TXIC Location: Tulsa, OK Vehicle: 2000 Impreza 2.5RS Becasue ITS racecar	You should also use antiseize on the studs.

11-16-2003, 02:44 AM	#16
bbbwrx Scooby Specialist Member#: 32734 Join Date: Feb 2003 Chapter/Region: RMIC	I will use anti size if mechanics have been doing it for ever then it can't be that bad or wrong. BEN

11-17-2003, 10:44 AM	#18
Infymus * Banned * Member#: 20588 Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Salt Lake City, UT Vehicle: I'm Harrassed By NASIOC Mods	I made it a policy with the Subaru Dealer that I use here in SLC - they are absolutely forbidden to touch my tires. I do NOT know what it is with dealers but they torque the lugs down so hard I actually BROKE the tire-iron that comes with my WRX. I had to use a farkin hammer on the tire iron to get the lugs off they were on so tight. I'd say they used probably over 150lb to 200lb torque to stick them on. The manual says 65 to 72 ft lb of torque, but I'm sure the dealer has never read the manual. I have no idea why, but now I forbid them from touching my tires. Personally I use a tire-iron to slightly tighten up then I use a torque wrench to apply the proper tightening. Dang dealers and their air guns, they make the baby jehbus cry.

11-17-2003, 05:06 PM	#20
DISCOPOPE Scooby Specialist Member#: 43339 Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: mpls, mn Vehicle: 2oo4 STi URgt35r w/t3hM3finj3cki0n	nuts torque studs lube.... wtheck is going on here...

11-17-2003, 05:20 PM	#21
alfaguy Scooby Newbie Member#: 14238 Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: Lafayette, CO Vehicle: 2002 WRX Wagon - PSM Alfas: 89 Milano \| 72 GTV	When a manufacturer lists a torque specification, it is assumed to be on "dry" fasteners. If a lubricant or sealant is needed, it will be noted, i.e.: 54 lb/ft, oiled or sometimes even the lubricant is specified: 54 lb/ft, MolyKote 752 Synthetic Grease 25 lb/ft, Wurth Threadlocker If a fastener is torqued to it's "dry" torque spec with a lubricant, the actual stretching force applied to the fastener is far greater than intended.