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Old 11-14-2003, 06:32 AM   #1
GravelRash
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 16318
Join Date: Mar 2002
Chapter/Region: NWIC
Location: Kirkland, WA
Vehicle:
2002 WRX wagon
Grime over Sedona Red

Default Heatshield mods for new DP and UP

(Inspired by a previous "How do I..." thread)

When I installed a new DP and UP I wanted to keep all possible material on the turbo heat shields...but it was a real pita to get it right. If I were doing it all again...

This all assumes that your new DP has a separate wastegate tube (and why would you install one w/o this? ). Mine is Prodrive, but the issues and procedures should be very similar for any DP.

Tools:
I used a sawzall, with narrow fine tooth metal blade, and snips/shears. Others in the related thread mentioned air die grinders, cutoff tools, angle grinder, or even a Dremel though that's pretty light for the task.

Plus file/grinder/sandpaper for deburring cut edges; don't skip this step

I've got a bunch of pictures I'll add in the next posts...

1 - With the new DP off the car, mount the lower heat shield to it - assuming of course that your DP has brackets for that.

Then block the pipe up on something so it's not resting on the lower shield - you don't want to deform it. I just used a piece of 2x6, on edge.

Note: if you do have the bracket for this shield, leave it mounted to the DP when you install it! Major pita to get it into place after the DP is installed (ymmv, depending on pipe config, bracket design...etc.)

If you don't have a bracket for the lower shield skip to step 2 I guess...

2 - Mount the upper shield bracket to the top 2 bolt holes in the turbo flange, just like it were fully assembled in the car.

(Hint: put the bolts in from the back side for this; otherwise they'll stick out too far to the rear - no turbo flange to go through - and interfere with the upper shield.)

3 - Now hold the shield over the pipe and bracket, and/or try to slip it into place, and eyeball where it interferes; mark with the Sharpie pen.

You may want to make a quickie template out of cardboard for the basic clearance zone, for marking the flat back side of the shield.

I used a sawzall with a narrow fine tooth metal blade to cut the curves on this part; deburr with a file, grinder, whatever, afterwards.

4 - I wanted to keep the lower part of the upper shield - the part that extends back to bolt to the lower outside corner of the lower shield. This part is bent inwards, under the stock pipe. To make it fit I had to a) trim a significant amount off the top, rearward from the clearance cut I made on the flat back side of the shield (for the wastegate dump tube).

I used aviation snips for this part; deburr afterwards.

I also had to basically reverse the bend - it now bends out, not in - to allow me to slip it over the wastegate dump tube once the DP is installed. You can't just straighten it out; that would move the lower rear bolt hole way too far to the rear.

This took a bunch of time, using a heavy mallet, a chunk of 3" pipe as an anvil, and a lot of vocabulary.

Note: part of the problem here is that when the DP is installed there's not much clearance to tweak the upper shield into place. Ideally it needs to slip pretty much straight down into place, with only a bit of tipping and wiggling.

5 - Once you can slip it over the upper bracket and pipe, make sure you can easily put all the bolts in place for the upper bracket, and upper to lower shields.

A little extra time spent making sure everything fits with good clearances now will pay big dividends when you're trying to get all those little bolts installed in the car!

My installation uses 6 bolts: (there is no bracket on my UP, unlike the stock one)
- 3 across the top of the upper shield, into the top bracket

- 1 attaching the lower shield to the DP bracket; this one goes in vertically, at the inner rear corner of the lower shield (assuming your DP has the correct bracketry)

- 1 at the lower rear outboard corner of the upper shield (ref step 4 above); this one goes into a captive nut on the lower shield. On my setup it goes through a hole in the DP bracket, sandwiching the bracket between the shields.

- 1 at the lower front outboard corner of the upper shield, also going into a captive nut on the lower shield. Note that there are 2 holes in the upper shield in this area; you want the rear hole for this connection.

- The front hole of this lower pair is supposed to line up with an attach point on the outboard turbo mounting bracket. It's also the hole with the least working room to try to get the bolt in; it didn't line up well for me, so I didn't use that bolt. No problem for my install.

- The remaining 2 bolts would have gone into the front of the lower bracket, connecting it to the UP bracket.

As for the shield around the bottom of the UP, borrow, rent, or just buy, an O2 sensor socket (the 3+" long one).

Remove the small access panel in the fender well, position the socket, and remove the sensor from the manifold. You'll need a box or open end wrench to fit the hex on top of the socket; no room for a ratchet. I used a locking crescent wrench.

Remove the plastic gravel shield under the front of the engine; 3 bolts, 4 plastic plugs. Then remove the bolts from the heat shield and drop it out.

Now just use snips/shears and cut a clearance slot for the O2 sensor - basically just straight up from each side of the hole in the shield. From now on you won't need to deal with the O2 sensor if you need to drop that heat shield...
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Last edited by GravelRash; 11-08-2004 at 03:53 AM.
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Old 11-14-2003, 08:00 AM   #2
GravelRash
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 16318
Join Date: Mar 2002
Chapter/Region: NWIC
Location: Kirkland, WA
Vehicle:
2002 WRX wagon
Grime over Sedona Red

Default

View of the lower shield mounted by one bolt to DP bracket...and upper bracket bolted to turbo flange:
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Old 11-14-2003, 08:08 AM   #3
GravelRash
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 16318
Join Date: Mar 2002
Chapter/Region: NWIC
Location: Kirkland, WA
Vehicle:
2002 WRX wagon
Grime over Sedona Red

Default

Another...
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Old 11-14-2003, 08:15 AM   #4
GravelRash
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 16318
Join Date: Mar 2002
Chapter/Region: NWIC
Location: Kirkland, WA
Vehicle:
2002 WRX wagon
Grime over Sedona Red

Default

Trimmed upper shield, looking from rear...
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Old 11-14-2003, 08:19 AM   #5
GravelRash
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 16318
Join Date: Mar 2002
Chapter/Region: NWIC
Location: Kirkland, WA
Vehicle:
2002 WRX wagon
Grime over Sedona Red

Default

From the side...showing described lower mounting holes.
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Old 11-14-2003, 08:24 AM   #6
GravelRash
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 16318
Join Date: Mar 2002
Chapter/Region: NWIC
Location: Kirkland, WA
Vehicle:
2002 WRX wagon
Grime over Sedona Red

Default

From the bottom, showing reformed lower rear section - crude, but effective
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Old 11-14-2003, 08:28 AM   #7
GravelRash
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 16318
Join Date: Mar 2002
Chapter/Region: NWIC
Location: Kirkland, WA
Vehicle:
2002 WRX wagon
Grime over Sedona Red

Default

Installed, from the back...
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Old 11-14-2003, 08:31 AM   #8
GravelRash
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 16318
Join Date: Mar 2002
Chapter/Region: NWIC
Location: Kirkland, WA
Vehicle:
2002 WRX wagon
Grime over Sedona Red

Default

Another angle, showing lower outboard bolts...
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Old 11-14-2003, 08:34 AM   #9
GravelRash
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 16318
Join Date: Mar 2002
Chapter/Region: NWIC
Location: Kirkland, WA
Vehicle:
2002 WRX wagon
Grime over Sedona Red

Default

Right oblique, showing lower shield peeking below front lower corner of upper shield...
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Old 11-14-2003, 08:37 AM   #10
GravelRash
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 16318
Join Date: Mar 2002
Chapter/Region: NWIC
Location: Kirkland, WA
Vehicle:
2002 WRX wagon
Grime over Sedona Red

Default

And a close up of the critical clearance area for tipping the shield into place over the DP...
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File Type: jpg pa200438-1.jpg (22.7 KB, 249 views)
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