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Old 03-27-2013, 05:14 PM   #1
WhatsThatNoize
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Default Fuel Pump not Priming, Car won't start

SOLVED: It was a faulty Fuel Pump Control Unit (the one located after the Relay but before the Pump. All 3 pumps were fine.

So after browsing threads with similar titles and descriptions, I have checked a lot of things and still can't seem to figure out what is going on:

The story:
I put in new DW 650cc spark plugs and a Walbro 255 into my 2002 WRX Wagon
I removed my Intake Manifold to repair a ruptured fuel line and do DIY TGV Deletes.
I replaced everything into its proper place, bought an Openport 2.0 and had a base map sent to flash.

Up until this point everything went according to plan. I flashed the Map successfully, replaced the battery with a fresh one (old one was dead), and turned the key after unplugging the two green test mode plugs and replugging in the fuel pump relay (I left the flash block jumper in)

No sound. The fuel pump made no sound at all. The relay clicked once (as it is supposed to), but no sound from the pump. The car turns over but there is no fuel pressure. So after pulling the pump multiple times to check and recheck things, I'm completely stumped.

Things I have checked:
1) The relay clicks as it should and I've confirmed this via sound and touch (it clicks once)
2) The battery is fresh
3) SBF-5 is intact
4) Fuse #11 is intact and I tried replacing it with 3 different 15Amp fuses, still nothing
5) Pump functions when hooked up to battery directly (I only tested this BRIEFLY. Didn't want to damage the pump)
6) With key to on and battery connected, the white connecter at the top of the fuel sending unit (outside of tank) supplies 10.2V through pins 1 & 4, 1 or 2 V through pins 3 & 6, and nothing through pins 2 & 5. I checked this with the fuel pump disconnected. I didn't check current flow.. perhaps I'm getting enough voltage but little/no current? What should the draw be?

Things I have not checked:
Fuel Pump Controller. I'm loathe to check this because it involves tearing up all of my interior trim, and I'm doubtful it is the culprit since I am receiving power to my pump when the key is on... So what gives? Is it possible that when there is a load (i.e. the pump is connected) the draw is too little to run the pump? I noticed that when removing the pump after testing priming a few times a LITTLE fuel would dribble out which suggests that the pump is either very briefly or very weakly activating. What gives? Could my fpr be malfunctioning?

What are my options?

If it is indeed the fuel pump controller, is there a way to safely bypass it? I am in desperate need of a quick fix here and I can't wait for another FPC to be sent to my house. If I can't figure out the issue, is there a way to simply bypass all of this crap and run a power line and ground directly to the pump?
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Last edited by WhatsThatNoize; 06-06-2013 at 11:56 PM. Reason: Solution Added
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Old 03-27-2013, 05:45 PM   #2
WhiteBgeye02
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are u sure u flashed it correctly? a bricked ecu will turn the car over but not send power to the pump. is there another ecu u can try and see if it primes. i have not troubleshooted this before except one time and it was the ecu. we didnt check any of the other crap like u did so you know more than myself but its something u could look into. a 02-05 wrx ecu will work. dont need to start the car. just plug it in, turn the key and u will hear if the fuel pump kicks in or not.
my .02 cents
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Old 03-27-2013, 05:48 PM   #3
WhatsThatNoize
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I am positive it flashed correctly. I even reflashed twice after testing. It can't be bricked
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Old 03-27-2013, 06:22 PM   #4
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well if u know someone its a free test. or test the fuel pump controller
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Old 03-27-2013, 06:55 PM   #5
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I'll try testing the FPC but I don't have anyone I can test the ECU with. I may try bypassing the FPC but I'll need a how-to on doing that...
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Old 03-27-2013, 07:10 PM   #6
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if it all worked before ya ****ed with it....likely bricked the ecu

and there was no reason what so ever to disconnect the fpr or anything else other than the battery when you did what you did

and this is why so many have so many issues here....doin all sorta stuff that dont need to be done and causing all sorta new problems that wouldnt be here if they didnt
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Old 03-27-2013, 07:16 PM   #7
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I heard about this while doing tgv deletes. Make sure all your grounds are in place. Especially the ones for the intake manifold.
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Old 03-27-2013, 07:16 PM   #8
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I doubt it is bricked considering I can still connect to the ECU, read, and flash it.

I didn't disconnect the FPR or the FPC. I did need to remove the Intake manifold in order to do TGV Deletes and fix the fuel line under the manifold itself.

Your lazy answers you dish out without reading serve no purpose. I've seen your cynical and worthless attitude all over these boards. Go somewhere else.

I did need to fix the fuel line. Leaking fuel on top of an engine is DANGEROUS. Since i was in there I decided to replace EASY things like injectors, fuel pump, TGV Deletes, etc. Those aren't difficult modifications. If you think they are, maybe you're the one who shouldn't be doing this "Stuff".
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Old 03-27-2013, 07:16 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by paulpat View Post
I heard about this while doing tgv deletes. Make sure all your grounds are in place. Especially the ones for the intake manifold.
1st thing I checked... Sorry, that should have been in the OP. My bad.

I should note that it seems like 10.2 V is awfully low for priming. Shouldn't the pump be given the full voltage from the battery? The battery is brand new and puts out 12.4 volts at the terminals.

Last edited by WhatsThatNoize; 03-27-2013 at 07:22 PM.
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Old 03-28-2013, 03:35 PM   #10
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For anyone who may see this in the future: I'm using this mod to bypass my FPC... Please note that you're looking for the fuel pump power wire, not just the black and yellow wire. Consult your FSM and be sure you have the right wire.

The mod by itself didn't work. I'm going to attempt to reground my pump and the FPC (which I fear shares the same ground wire so I'd best ground them both to be safe)
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Old 03-28-2013, 05:13 PM   #11
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u will not get full voltage at the pump. thats why some ppl hardwire the fuel pump to get more voltage to it so it can pump more than the std wiring can provide.
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Old 03-28-2013, 05:56 PM   #12
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Are both of the grounds on the intake manifold securely fastened, and is the contact clean?
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Old 03-28-2013, 11:03 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WhiteBgeye02 View Post
u will not get full voltage at the pump. thats why some ppl hardwire the fuel pump to get more voltage to it so it can pump more than the std wiring can provide.
I did, but i had to hardwire the pump to a switch without a relay... dangerous, I know, but what other options do I have at this point?

Unfortunately I get the feeling that my pump is running backwards because it is turning on but nothing is coming out. Weird I know but I feel perhaps the Walbro I got may have been an older model (Got it off of Amazon) and so I'm going to try rewiring it in reverse. Worst case scenario, it runs backwards for a few seconds. I'm pretty sure that will not harm it, and even if it does, I can replace it with either of the other two fuel pumps I have in my house.

Quote:
Originally Posted by BeastianSTI View Post
Are both of the grounds on the intake manifold securely fastened, and is the contact clean?
Yep. Triple-checked that now.
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Old 03-28-2013, 11:50 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WhatsThatNoize View Post
I did, but i had to hardwire the pump to a switch without a relay... dangerous, I know, but what other options do I have at this point?
Unfortunately I get the feeling that my pump is running backwards because it is turning on but nothing is coming out. Weird I know but I feel perhaps the Walbro I got may have been an older model (Got it off of Amazon) and so I'm going to try rewiring it in reverse. Worst case scenario, it runs backwards for a few seconds. I'm pretty sure that will not harm it, and even if it does, I can replace it with either of the other two fuel pumps I have in my house.



Yep. Triple-checked that now.
the options are that you go back and figure out what you DID that caused all these issues and fix THAT rather than poke and hope here what ya doin.

if everything worked THEN.....and does not NOW....s o m e t h i n g you did caused it

stop causin more issues and figure it out
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Old 03-29-2013, 12:51 AM   #15
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What I did: Pulled the unit, unplugged the stock pump, put in the new pump, plugged in the new pump, put the unit back in. I did ABSOLUTELY NOTHING other than that. Battery was disconnected completely throughout, relay was unplugged throughout, static was avoided throughout (I work on electronics a bit and habitually touch ground). I didn't mess around with any wires, I didn't fudge any circuits or install anything else in the fuel system other than new injectors and a hose under the intake manifold. Tell me where I went wrong here, because the unit as it is cannot be installed in any other way that I can even conceive of.

EDIT: One thing of note that I noticed is that it has happened recently such that a person got a reversed polarity fuel pump... granted it was for a Nissan, but it's still the same unit. Here
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Old 03-29-2013, 01:31 AM   #16
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Have you installed the original pump to see if it primes, starts? It may be a faulty pump.
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Old 03-29-2013, 11:39 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bhpsti View Post
Have you installed the original pump to see if it primes, starts? It may be a faulty pump.
Yup :/ I've swapped in 3 different pumps, and all the same symptoms
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Old 03-29-2013, 07:09 PM   #18
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Is it possible the fuel pump wiring is damaged? Forgive me if you checked it already. I'm driving and have to glance.
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Old 03-29-2013, 07:41 PM   #19
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If you're getting over 10v at the pump it should be running. If it's not running, then you have a broken wire or connection between the connector you found 10.2v at and the pump.

Put the car in test mode and see if you can hear the pump when you're right next to it. Pull it out of the tank if you need to, 10.2 v and it should definitely be running.

Based on what's been tried already, I'm guessing you accidentally swapped feed and return at the rails and you're trying to push fuel through a one way valve (the FPR) and failing. You can try removing the lines from the rails and looping feed to return. The pump should operate very freely then, and voltage should be higher than the 10.2v you saw before since there will be no pressure.

Last edited by Concillian; 03-29-2013 at 07:46 PM.
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