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Old 12-06-2004, 06:35 PM   #51
rewt
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wcbjr
I did the same mod, but have only boosted to 18 thus far. Need a retune.

Anyways, I lined up the male end of a 3/8" socket extension perpendicular to the top of the BPV, i.e. the cap. I then hit the female end of the extension with a hammer, until it dented in the cap about 1/8" to 3/16".
awesome, thanks for the info
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Old 12-06-2004, 10:26 PM   #52
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Here's a stupid question - since the BOV mod is more efficient than the standard BOV and doesn't leak (as much) wouldn't you need to be retuned, especially when the car switches to OLF? Or is it just as easy as switching between my GFB and the modded stocker?
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Old 12-11-2004, 01:55 AM   #53
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bump for my question ^^^
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Old 12-11-2004, 11:49 AM   #54
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Yes, you would need to be retuned if your max boost goes up and was not tuned for in the past.
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Old 04-25-2005, 09:14 PM   #55
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TheMadScientist
Can you update your pics. I just built a 2.5 with an FPgreen. The after market BOV's [turboxs and (Blitz a little better)] are loud and hard to dial in. I cannot stand the extra sound. The turbo intake is sweetness to my ears. the bleet of a bov is just apita, on top of irritating.

Thx

David
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Old 04-25-2005, 09:21 PM   #56
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TMS we can use mine as the model.
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Old 04-25-2005, 10:14 PM   #57
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Any boost that is used to close the valve will be counteracted by the boost pushing against the valve, so in effect, still only the spring is holding it closed. More boost won't cause it to clamp tighter.

It would appear that you've only added more volume by added the second line to help equal the boost on the valve side, allowing the spring to 100% do its job.

def
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Old 04-25-2005, 10:22 PM   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dug-e-fresh
Any boost that is used to close the valve will be counteracted by the boost pushing against the valve, so in effect, still only the spring is holding it closed. More boost won't cause it to clamp tighter.

It would appear that you've only added more volume by added the second line to help equal the boost on the valve side, allowing the spring to 100% do its job.

def
If I lean against you and you lean against me with the same force, we both wont tip in either direction. Thats the same deal with the mod. The boost on both sides of the diaphram evens out and the spring becomes almost negligible.
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Old 04-25-2005, 11:47 PM   #59
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Thats awesome....Hopefully when I start running higher boost I'll do this too.
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Old 04-26-2005, 12:18 AM   #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by n2xlr8n
I wacked mine with a small ball-peen....good to 24 psi @ 7200 so far.
you and your hammer stay away from my car please
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Old 04-26-2005, 12:36 AM   #61
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sam caldwell
you and your hammer stay away from my car please

...mine too.....no problems...one good whack...
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Old 04-26-2005, 01:27 AM   #62
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dug-e-fresh
Any boost that is used to close the valve will be counteracted by the boost pushing against the valve, so in effect, still only the spring is holding it closed. More boost won't cause it to clamp tighter.

It would appear that you've only added more volume by added the second line to help equal the boost on the valve side, allowing the spring to 100% do its job.

def
Quote:
Originally Posted by cdvma
If I lean against you and you lean against me with the same force, we both wont tip in either direction.
You guys are right in what you are saying but it does not apply here. This mod closes off the bottom side of the diaphragm while still allowing pressure to the top of it. Under boost you will have boost + spring rate pushing down on the valve. The diaphragm has more area than the valve does so the force will not be equal on both sides.

Quote:
Originally Posted by cdvma
Thats the same deal with the mod. The boost on both sides of the diaphram evens out and the spring becomes almost negligible.
No, that is how the unmodified stock bov works.
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Old 04-26-2005, 05:27 AM   #63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CMJ
You guys are right in what you are saying but it does not apply here. This mod closes off the bottom side of the diaphragm while still allowing pressure to the top of it. Under boost you will have boost + spring rate pushing down on the valve. The diaphragm has more area than the valve does so the force will not be equal on both sides.



No, that is how the unmodified stock bov works.
+1
Someone is paying atention.

TMS
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Old 04-26-2005, 09:59 AM   #64
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I don't mean to hijack, but Thought that BOV could cure or improve BPV rpm surge. It seems that all of you guys are aware in this tread of changes in this surge from one type of vale to another. My question si: could you please compare the RPM surge between any BOV with stock BPV and modded BPV?
Thanks you, sorry again
Vlad
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Old 04-26-2005, 11:01 AM   #65
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Some pictures for us impaired spatialy perception wise.

How do you get the big Hinky diamond shaped stock bo-pv on a FM pipe??

I do better with a few pictures.
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Old 04-26-2005, 07:48 PM   #66
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So, you just block the hole on the pressurized side, and drill the other out? How much do you drill on the second hole?
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Old 04-26-2005, 08:21 PM   #67
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cdvma
If I lean against you and you lean against me with the same force, we both wont tip in either direction. Thats the same deal with the mod. The boost on both sides of the diaphram evens out and the spring becomes almost negligible.
thus the valve is not being held close with more boost.... we are both merely pressing harder.

inactuality, the spings force then becomes EVERYTHING. this is why crushing a BOV keeps in shut under higher boost. crushung the BOV is effectively raising the spring pressure, which in turn DOES hold the valve closed tighter.

def
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Old 04-26-2005, 08:22 PM   #68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CMJ
The diaphragm has more area than the valve does so the force will not be equal on both sides.
that the most important statement. agreed.

def
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Old 04-26-2005, 08:42 PM   #69
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dug-e-fresh
thus the valve is not being held close with more boost.... we are both merely pressing harder.

inactuality, the spings force then becomes EVERYTHING. this is why crushing a BOV keeps in shut under higher boost. crushung the BOV is effectively raising the spring pressure, which in turn DOES hold the valve closed tighter.

def
Before the mod the BOV acts the way you are describing. After the mod there is a pressure differential across the diaphram. That differential gets greater with more boost and that is what helps keep the BOV closed. If you vent one side of the BOV diaphram to atmosphere and the other side has boost then the boost helps hold the valve closed.

TMS
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Old 04-27-2005, 01:25 AM   #70
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Will this work on an FPGreen and a 2.5 Axis motor?? I am sick of hearing the BoV sound??

A couple of G-damn, pictures would help unkad........
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Old 04-27-2005, 08:12 AM   #71
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davenow has a picture of the one on my car, with the drilled out port clearly visible.

bug him for it!
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Old 04-27-2005, 09:40 AM   #72
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The pics on the first page still work.

TMS
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Old 04-27-2005, 10:34 AM   #73
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CMJ
You guys are right in what you are saying but it does not apply here. This mod closes off the bottom side of the diaphragm while still allowing pressure to the top of it. Under boost you will have boost + spring rate pushing down on the valve. The diaphragm has more area than the valve does so the force will not be equal on both sides.



No, that is how the unmodified stock bov works.
Am I ? I totally had this thing backwards in my head...I just saw the images again. Man I think I had a non-senior senior moment. TMS explained this to me in person a while back...think I would have it engraved by now
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Old 04-27-2005, 10:58 PM   #74
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so, anyone have a better picture of the drilled hole? how deep?etc.
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Old 04-28-2005, 02:32 PM   #75
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EVOBOXR
so, anyone have a better picture of the drilled hole? how deep?etc.
You just drill into the side... you're aiming for the same pathway that you plugged from the bottom. It's < 3/16" of material.
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