Welcome to the North American Subaru Impreza Owners Club Wednesday July 29, 2015
Home Forums WikiNASIOC Products Store Modifications Upgrade Garage
NASIOC
Here you can view your subscribed threads, work with private messages and edit your profile and preferences Home Registration is free! Visit the NASIOC Store NASIOC Rules Search Find other members Frequently Asked Questions Calendar Archive NASIOC Upgrade Garage Logout
Go Back   NASIOC > NASIOC Technical > Factory 2.0L Turbo Powertrain (EJ Series Factory 2.0L Turbo)

Welcome to NASIOC - The world's largest online community for Subaru enthusiasts!
Welcome to the NASIOC.com Subaru forum.

You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, free of charge, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, so please join our community today!

If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact us.
* Registered users of the site do not see these ads.
Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 04-28-2005, 07:27 PM   #76
OCrex
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 78696
Join Date: Jan 2005
Chapter/Region: SCIC
Location: Long Beach, CA
Vehicle:
2005 Wingless STI
Aspen White

Default

I just did this mod but i think i might have screwed it up.

When i drilled the whole in the side, i kept going all the way to the inner chamber, all the way through. I didn't even notice the little whole in the shaft that leads to the tapped screw below until i was done. Did i drill too far? How will this affect the performance? Am i leaking boost constantly now?
* Registered users of the site do not see these ads.
OCrex is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
* Registered users of the site do not see these ads.
Old 04-28-2005, 07:36 PM   #77
CMJ
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 39235
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: L.A., CA
Default

You don't really need to drill the hole. Just tap the hole on the bottom and then push the valve in about half way or more and then thread the set screw in. After the set screw is in release the valve and it will create a minor vacuum in the lower part of the diaphragm allowing it to blow off when needed.
CMJ is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-28-2005, 07:40 PM   #78
OCrex
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 78696
Join Date: Jan 2005
Chapter/Region: SCIC
Location: Long Beach, CA
Vehicle:
2005 Wingless STI
Aspen White

Default

Well, it's too late for that. I've already drilled the whole, i'm just trying to figure out if i went too far and screwed it up.
OCrex is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-29-2005, 05:39 AM   #79
TheMadScientist
Scooby Guru
 
Member#: 23717
Join Date: Aug 2002
Chapter/Region: NESIC
Location: Beverly, MA
Vehicle:
2005 Big red

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by OCrex
Well, it's too late for that. I've already drilled the whole, i'm just trying to figure out if i went too far and screwed it up.
Sounds like you went too far. The depth of the hole on the side should only be ~1/4".

TMS
TheMadScientist is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-29-2005, 11:48 AM   #80
unkadave
*** Banned ***
 
Member#: 55525
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Careful with that Ax,.. Earl
Vehicle:
02 wrx wgn 2.5
Keep Right

Default

Found the pics. doh!

Think this will hold an FPGreen at about 1.5 bar, tops. My Blitz external is loud (hate it) and It spits and jerks under light throttle accel and decel.


thx
unkadave is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-29-2005, 11:52 AM   #81
ride5000
Scooby Guru
 
Member#: 32792
Join Date: Feb 2003
Chapter/Region: NESIC
Location: lincoln, ri
Vehicle:
2003 GGA MBP
12.9 / 105+

Default

it will hold 20 psi, i can tell you that! no reason to believe it won't hold more.
ride5000 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-29-2005, 11:54 AM   #82
TheMadScientist
Scooby Guru
 
Member#: 23717
Join Date: Aug 2002
Chapter/Region: NESIC
Location: Beverly, MA
Vehicle:
2005 Big red

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by ride5000
it will hold 20 psi, i can tell you that! no reason to believe it won't hold more.
Mine held 23-24 on a 16G. Like stated earlier in this thread the more boost you make the tighter the valve will close.

TMS
TheMadScientist is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-22-2005, 08:01 PM   #83
TyranosaurusWRX
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 25731
Join Date: Oct 2002
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: Ft Wayne, IN
Vehicle:
02 wrx(sold)/2005
Sti/ 93 Leg Wag

Default

I noticed this thread was posted quite awhile back. Are you still using this bov? I am assuming, if you still are, that you have not had any issues between the small amount of surge and your turbo?
TyranosaurusWRX is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-22-2005, 09:35 PM   #84
EVOBOXR
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 73648
Join Date: Nov 2004
Default

I did the mod, painted it nice and purdy black....My car is so much smoother now...took the RFL off....this mod deleted the reason I took the stock one off...great and EASY mod
EVOBOXR is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-23-2005, 05:55 AM   #85
TheMadScientist
Scooby Guru
 
Member#: 23717
Join Date: Aug 2002
Chapter/Region: NESIC
Location: Beverly, MA
Vehicle:
2005 Big red

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by TyranosaurusWRX
I noticed this thread was posted quite awhile back. Are you still using this bov? I am assuming, if you still are, that you have not had any issues between the small amount of surge and your turbo?
I ran this mod on my WRX with a 16G for ~1 year and now I have been running it on my Sti with the VF39 for 1.5 years.
I have not had any problems at all. I will soon be running this with a 20G on the Sti.

TMS
TheMadScientist is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-23-2005, 06:08 AM   #86
brenden3010
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 79461
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Houston
Vehicle:
04 STi
White

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by TheMadScientist
There is nothing that I can feel that is different. Except that the BOV now holds a rock solid 20psi. I am sure that it will hold more but my boost gauge only reads to 20psi.


So you could be holding 29389283 psi, but you have no clue, right? You only know its over 20... watch out.
brenden3010 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-23-2005, 07:39 AM   #87
pezman04wrx
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 66558
Join Date: Jul 2004
Chapter/Region: NESIC
Location: MA
Default

^^^ I'd venture a guess that he's running a better boost gauge now since the post you mentioned is from 03', and it was on a totally different car ...
pezman04wrx is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-23-2005, 08:11 AM   #88
TheMadScientist
Scooby Guru
 
Member#: 23717
Join Date: Aug 2002
Chapter/Region: NESIC
Location: Beverly, MA
Vehicle:
2005 Big red

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by brenden3010
So you could be holding 29389283 psi, but you have no clue, right? You only know its over 20... watch out.
I set the WRX up using the Utec boost #'s from log1. Set to 22-23psi.


Quote:
Originally Posted by pezman04wrx
^^^ I'd venture a guess that he's running a better boost gauge now since the post you mentioned is from 03', and it was on a totally different car ...
Well the same boost gauge is on the Sti now. But I have the boost set to stock right now.

TMS
TheMadScientist is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-24-2005, 12:09 AM   #89
Athena
*** Banned ***
 
Member#: 86226
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Eugene, Oregon
Vehicle:
1987 Toyota truck
brown

Default

Air Power Systems Pty Ltd has this to say about their blow off valve:

APS BOV development:

We are often asked why we developed our own blow off valve when there are so many on the market. Quite frankly APS had not found a blow off valve for the WRX/STI that offered the level of performance required.
With a large turbocharger, releasing pressure from the turbine compressor wheel when the throttle is snapped shut is critical not only for turbocharger response, but for turbocharger longevity. A huge volume of air must be passed through the blow off valve as soon as the throttle is closed.

Most blow off valves have limitations in their design that inhibit the level of performance we demand. Piston/bore diameter and venting ports are often too small and surprisingly, most will not fully expose the exhaust ports when fully opened.

Ultimately, the need for a truly high performance blow off valve specifically designed for the WRX/STI needed to be satisfied.
Athena is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-24-2005, 04:56 AM   #90
TheMadScientist
Scooby Guru
 
Member#: 23717
Join Date: Aug 2002
Chapter/Region: NESIC
Location: Beverly, MA
Vehicle:
2005 Big red

Default

In the words of Suicidal Tendencies

Send me your money

TMS

Quote:
Originally Posted by Athena
Air Power Systems Pty Ltd has this to say about their blow off valve:

APS BOV development:

We are often asked why we developed our own blow off valve when there are so many on the market. Quite frankly APS had not found a blow off valve for the WRX/STI that offered the level of performance required.
With a large turbocharger, releasing pressure from the turbine compressor wheel when the throttle is snapped shut is critical not only for turbocharger response, but for turbocharger longevity. A huge volume of air must be passed through the blow off valve as soon as the throttle is closed.

Most blow off valves have limitations in their design that inhibit the level of performance we demand. Piston/bore diameter and venting ports are often too small and surprisingly, most will not fully expose the exhaust ports when fully opened.

Ultimately, the need for a truly high performance blow off valve specifically designed for the WRX/STI needed to be satisfied.
TheMadScientist is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-24-2005, 12:09 PM   #91
SlideWRX
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 3803
Join Date: Jan 2001
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: South Carolina
Vehicle:
07 Mustang GT
285 is a wide tire!

Default

Just crushed my BPV this weekend. ~3mm, works great. No driveability difference that I could discern.

Tom
SlideWRX is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-24-2005, 01:59 PM   #92
lowblow
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 56902
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Mid Maryland
Vehicle:
2009 VW Jetta SE

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by SlideWRX
Just crushed my BPV this weekend. ~3mm, works great. No driveability difference that I could discern.

Tom
This was more about the screw mod, no the crushing mod...but if it works, then good for you
lowblow is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-25-2005, 03:07 PM   #93
SlideWRX
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 3803
Join Date: Jan 2001
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: South Carolina
Vehicle:
07 Mustang GT
285 is a wide tire!

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by lowblow
This was more about the screw mod, no the crushing mod...but if it works, then good for you
True, but the thread pretty much contain the info for both, so I figured it's more of an 'Improve the Stock BPV' thread.

Tom
SlideWRX is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-20-2005, 08:08 PM   #94
subeerex
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 87430
Join Date: May 2005
Chapter/Region: SCIC
Location: iFontanaE
Vehicle:
02/5 BugEye-Peanut
Sedona Red Silver

Have a Nice Day? whatever works

Quote:
Originally Posted by TheMadScientist
Because I am a cheap SOB. This cost me 16 cents the Sti BOV is around
$100.
I already have a $200.00 BOV from GFB but can't adjust it without a turbo-boost gauge and I'm tired of test driving. I'll try anything at this point and the $0.16 valve sounds like a deal...not to mention, a fun project!! But, while in the subject...would a gauge help me set the BOV? Would my GFB BOV work as well as your project, but with a gauge added? I mean...I already have it...can I work with it?
subeerex is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-21-2005, 08:26 AM   #95
ride5000
Scooby Guru
 
Member#: 32792
Join Date: Feb 2003
Chapter/Region: NESIC
Location: lincoln, ri
Vehicle:
2003 GGA MBP
12.9 / 105+

Default

you shouldn't need a boost gauge to set up a bov properly.

there are two extremes:
too little tension, leaking at idle, rough running/starting.
too much tension, compressor flutter at throttle lift, or in an extreme case, surge.

stay between those two and you're all set.
ride5000 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-21-2005, 09:15 AM   #96
subeerex
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 87430
Join Date: May 2005
Chapter/Region: SCIC
Location: iFontanaE
Vehicle:
02/5 BugEye-Peanut
Sedona Red Silver

Question

Quote:
Originally Posted by CMJ
You don't really need to drill the hole. Just tap the hole on the bottom and then push the valve in about half way or more and then thread the set screw in. After the set screw is in release the valve and it will create a minor vacuum in the lower part of the diaphragm allowing it to blow off when needed.
What's the difference between drilling the hole on the side and just setting the screw after pushing the valve in? Which one is better...cause I'm about to do this mod and if there's no difference or it's better without the hole, then that'll save me a step or may-be give me better results...would it?!
subeerex is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-21-2005, 09:22 AM   #97
subeerex
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 87430
Join Date: May 2005
Chapter/Region: SCIC
Location: iFontanaE
Vehicle:
02/5 BugEye-Peanut
Sedona Red Silver

Question

Quote:
Originally Posted by TheMadScientist
Sounds like you went too far. The depth of the hole on the side should only be ~1/4".

TMS
What about the diameter of the side hole? Should it be the same as the diameter of the hole in the inside that got tapped? Could it be smaller or should it be larger? Does it make any difference?!!
subeerex is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-21-2005, 09:31 AM   #98
subeerex
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 87430
Join Date: May 2005
Chapter/Region: SCIC
Location: iFontanaE
Vehicle:
02/5 BugEye-Peanut
Sedona Red Silver

Question

Quote:
Originally Posted by EVOBOXR
I did the mod, painted it nice and purdy black....My car is so much smoother now...took the RFL off....this mod deleted the reason I took the stock one off...great and EASY mod
Did you do the mod by drilling the outer-side hole or did you just tapped the inside hole while squezzing in the valve? Very important cause I wanna know which method is better and why? Obviously one is a step less than the other but which one is BETTER?!!!
subeerex is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-21-2005, 09:44 AM   #99
ride5000
Scooby Guru
 
Member#: 32792
Join Date: Feb 2003
Chapter/Region: NESIC
Location: lincoln, ri
Vehicle:
2003 GGA MBP
12.9 / 105+

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by subeerex
What's the difference between drilling the hole on the side and just setting the screw after pushing the valve in? Which one is better...cause I'm about to do this mod and if there's no difference or it's better without the hole, then that'll save me a step or may-be give me better results...would it?!
drill the hole.
ride5000 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-21-2005, 09:44 AM   #100
ride5000
Scooby Guru
 
Member#: 32792
Join Date: Feb 2003
Chapter/Region: NESIC
Location: lincoln, ri
Vehicle:
2003 GGA MBP
12.9 / 105+

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by subeerex
What about the diameter of the side hole? Should it be the same as the diameter of the hole in the inside that got tapped? Could it be smaller or should it be larger? Does it make any difference?!!
same diameter.
ride5000 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 05:32 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.0
Copyright ©2000 - 2015, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Powered by Searchlight © 2015 Axivo Inc.
Copyright ©1999 - 2015, North American Subaru Impreza Owners Club, Inc.