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Old 03-19-2008, 09:58 AM   #1
2mprzya
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Default A/C line rubbing on larger intercooler

Hey guys, I got a larger intercooler about a year ago and love it. The only problem is that even when I pushed the a/c lines as far to the firewall as i could, they rubbed, and actually wore it down enough to cause a leak. I'm looking around to see

where i can by the lines them selves,
what they are called,
how much i should expect to pay for just the lines,
and how much to expect for the lines with installation.

Also, does anyone know of an easier fix? I didn't have a/c for the last weeks of summer last year and it sucked, although i dont use it often, its nice to have for those 100 degree days.

thanks for any help, and mods, if this is the wrong thread, please move it for me.
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Old 03-19-2008, 12:12 PM   #2
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At this point since you do gotta buy a new ac line I would recommend getting an STI line. The STI one is flexible. Pricing will vary your best bet is a junkyard with subies or ebay.
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Old 03-19-2008, 12:52 PM   #3
2mprzya
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what is the name of the peice im looking for? i've just been calling it the a/c line that run acrossed the firewall. i had a quote from a dealership for $375 for the piece and $200 to install. just seems like a lot for a piece of tubing. is there more to it?
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Old 03-19-2008, 03:45 PM   #4
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yep its not a small line, u have to replace the whole piece and if u look at it, it is long and has special bends haha thats y the dealer wants soo much
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Old 03-19-2008, 04:29 PM   #5
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Not sure about the new line, but when you get it, just wrap a piece of rubber tubing around the line, even if you think it's far enough away. Things move around in there, apparently.
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Old 03-19-2008, 05:01 PM   #6
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try calling some of the shops on the boards that sell front clips and jdm swaps, they will probably have tons laying around. got mine from guy who wrecked his off ebay for 25bucks,, just keep looking, one will pop up
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Old 03-19-2008, 05:03 PM   #7
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Just move them down. I ran the Hyperflow TMIC, it was huge. I unbolted the lines, bent them down and back, and used the top hole of the bracket with the bottom bolt. Mine never rubbed.
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Old 03-19-2008, 05:05 PM   #8
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1st. sell what is likely an ebay tmic and get a sti tmic or some other reputable brand that fits (and performs a hell of alot better).

Then fix the A/C line. (anyone think he could JB Weld the hole adn then re-charge the system? I don't see why not.)

I know thats OT but, I've been in your boat before, I nearly killed my A/C running a egay tmic.
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Old 03-19-2008, 05:09 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sluflyer06 View Post
1st. sell what is likely an ebay tmic and get a sti tmic or some other reputable brand that fits (and performs a hell of alot better).

Then fix the A/C line. (anyone think he could JB Weld the hole adn then re-charge the system? I don't see why not.)

I know thats OT but, I've been in your boat before, I nearly killed my A/C running a egay tmic.

jb weld most likely would not work. keep an eye on ebay, you can find one. people wreck sti's all the time
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Old 03-19-2008, 05:11 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2mprzya View Post
what is the name of the peice im looking for? i've just been calling it the a/c line that run acrossed the firewall. i had a quote from a dealership for $375 for the piece and $200 to install. just seems like a lot for a piece of tubing. is there more to it?
if all the refrigerant has leaked out install is a piece of cake. you can recharge the system yourself with one of the kits from pepboys for 20bucks. its the low pressure line iirc
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Old 03-19-2008, 05:29 PM   #11
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Oh and nobody mentioned this but DO NOT turn on the front window defroster until this is fixed, I hope you haven't used it this winter. The refrigerant carries the oil for the compressor and the compressor turns on with the defroster. If you've been running it there a is chance its dead now.
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Old 03-19-2008, 05:36 PM   #12
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Talk to your local mechanic. I had one custom-made and installed for $250ish after getting my MASSIVE top-mount
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Old 03-19-2008, 07:13 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sluflyer06 View Post
1st. sell what is likely an ebay tmic and get a sti tmic or some other reputable brand that fits (and performs a hell of alot better).

Then fix the A/C line. (anyone think he could JB Weld the hole adn then re-charge the system? I don't see why not.)

I know thats OT but, I've been in your boat before, I nearly killed my A/C running a egay tmic.
I wish people would stop talking crap. Look at proven facts, like logs, I did. Imagine that......the ebay tmic is better than the sti tmic. Fools.
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Old 03-19-2008, 07:29 PM   #14
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Post a pic of your line where its rubbed through. If you have a good welder in your area, you can tig the aluminum pretty easy. I did and it works fine. Actually replacing the line it really easy. Use something to protect the line, header wrap works well. after you and a friend install the line, hook up with a mechanic to chare the system that will cost around $120 at most places, You can do it on the cheap with that can -o- air ****, but it better when you put the system in under vacuum the moisture in the cooling system will boiloff leaving dry lines, then the Tech. will charge your system.
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Old 03-19-2008, 07:45 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2ndGearFling View Post
I wish people would stop talking crap. Look at proven facts, like logs, I did. Imagine that......the ebay tmic is better than the sti tmic. Fools.
Look at the proven facts.

I got tuned with both TMIC's with the same turbo. I made more power and used more fuel at the same AFR with the sti tmic as the ebay.

In case I need to do the math for you. More fuel at the same AFR means the engine is bringing in more air and what is a engine you ask? its a air pump, if you need to add fuel to achieve the same AFR that means your making more power. Imagine that. Nothing like first hand experience that you can see in front of your face.

/discussion
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Old 03-19-2008, 10:26 PM   #16
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Interesting.....I was looking at it more from an IAT perspective. Do you have logs?
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Old 03-19-2008, 10:30 PM   #17
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I believe that the general concencus was that the sti tmic was not able to "flow" as well as the ebay tmic, but it cooled the charged air at a significantly better rate and still had excellent "flow" ... This is what is important in that it gives a denser charge to the motor and would require more fuel. Which, in turn, explains why sluflyer06 had more fuel going at the same afrs...
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Old 03-19-2008, 10:31 PM   #18
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I have the same issue. haven't fixed it yet, but check the car part outs on here, most people will sell it for under $70.
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Old 03-19-2008, 10:56 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2ndGearFling View Post
Interesting.....I was looking at it more from an IAT perspective. Do you have logs?
well here's the funny give and take with this argument. The ebay models b/c of their low fin density and bar and plate construction have significantly less pressure drop which in turn means the turbo has to work less, for some setups this means a net drop in charge temps generally when the turbo is not being pushed very hard and the air charge is not incredibly hot. When you start pushing the limits of your setup and reaching the outer regions of the compressor map compressor outlet temps are VERY high and in those cases the pressure drop advantage of the ebay no longer applies and the low fin density causes the intercooler to stay relatively cool while a hot charge is injected into the motor.

People say the sti tmic can flow ~440cfm although turbos as large as a green have been managed on it, though I'd say a 20g is the absolute limit. It on the other hand has a unknown pressure drop but is exceedingly effecient at cooling the charge air.

So for alot of people no the ebay isn't a complete waste, but its over sized(volume) (additional lag) and ridiculously heavy. and for the small cost savings it just doesn't make sense.

I can try to find some logs, I don't have that tmic/turbo/intake any more my setup has changed significantly. I sold the sti tmic for a Spearco with this setup.
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Old 03-20-2008, 01:36 AM   #20
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I have bought several used ones with good results. I finally got tired of this problem. I used the bracket tapped the fire wall and screwed it down at the 45 degree elbow. It works great.
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Old 03-20-2008, 01:21 PM   #21
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Newbie here!

Excuse me if I'm wrong, but I've not seen anyone talk about the rear engine support that goes under the TMIC, (the one that looks like a bone), if that part is replaced with an STI unit it's a lot stiffer and wont let the engine flex enough to damage the A/C line. I dont know if Cobb or another vendor has that part with polyurethane bushings in it so that it allows even less movement compared with the STi unit.

Just my 2 cents
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Old 03-20-2008, 01:53 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joelo_00 View Post
Newbie here!

Excuse me if I'm wrong, but I've not seen anyone talk about the rear engine support that goes under the TMIC, (the one that looks like a bone), if that part is replaced with an STI unit it's a lot stiffer and wont let the engine flex enough to damage the A/C line. I dont know if Cobb or another vendor has that part with polyurethane bushings in it so that it allows even less movement compared with the STi unit.

Just my 2 cents

The intercooler itself rubs on the AC line, not just while the motor moves. You make a good point though, but even so, the motor will STILL move, if not as much.
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Old 03-20-2008, 05:23 PM   #23
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thanks for all the help. i'm looking around for some lines now, found some on ebay and am talking to them.

also putting thought into the sti lines suggestion. any problem with them matching up or anything like that?
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Old 03-20-2008, 07:00 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hybrid gti 2 View Post
I have bought several used ones with good results. I finally got tired of this problem. I used the bracket tapped the fire wall and screwed it down at the 45 degree elbow. It works great.
Pics of said setup...I'll be getting my TXS V1 TMIC back here soon and would like to go ahead and ge the AC lines squared away.
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Old 03-20-2008, 07:46 PM   #25
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ok let me see what I can do
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