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Old 11-23-2003, 05:24 PM   #1
stylin2.5rs
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Unhappy HELP! have a big problem on my hands =P

Hey guys, sorry, I may have posted in the wrong forum, but im having some serious problems at the moment...I just got my GFB pulley kit (all 3 pulleys) and today I removed the belts and was about to install the crank first....DUH found out it takes a 22mm socket and I only had a 19 @ largest AHHH!! So I went down to the shop and picked up a 22mm. It fits my only problem now is that when I try to turn it (even with the car in 5th gear with the e-brake on and my friend pressing on the pedal) the pulley slips! ive put my whole body weight into turning it and it just spins. JUST found out you need a 4 foot bar for leverage, car screws me AGAIN! not to mention i have no freaking clue how i'm going to change the other 2 pulleys because THEY SPIN! anyone know what the secret to removing the 2 other pulleys are? Also on the alternator pulley, its a lot larger than 22mm...Im gonna guess its a 24mm? before I go out and spend another $5 on a stupid socket that im gonna use ONCE and then use it as a paper weight, I wanted to make sure i'm buying the right one. PLEASE any help would be greatly appreciated! thanks! -RJ
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Old 11-23-2003, 07:20 PM   #2
Tim Sanderson
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put a breaker on the crank pulley bolt, unplug the ignition pack and have a friend turn over the engine. Done. It should take less then a second.
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Old 11-23-2003, 07:52 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally posted by Tim Sanderson
put a breaker on the crank pulley bolt, unplug the ignition pack and have a friend turn over the engine. Done. It should take less then a second.
Are you kidding me?!? Does that really work?
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Old 11-23-2003, 10:43 PM   #4
nySulli
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i wouldn't try that, try the rubber mallet method, while putting pressure on the bolt, hit the ratchet with a hammer, mallet, whatever you have, that extra shock of force seems to get the bolt to slip for most people
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Old 11-23-2003, 11:54 PM   #5
stylin2.5rs
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So you would say skip the leverage of the lead bar and use a mallet instead to get it loose? Also would liquid wrench help at all? another question, if anyone knows, what size socket it used for the alternator pulley? and the major problem even if I did find the right size socket for it, it spins freely DOH! thanks for the feedback so far guyz -RJ
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Old 11-24-2003, 02:01 AM   #6
Tim Sanderson
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Quote:
Originally posted by That Guy
Are you kidding me?!? Does that really work?
Yes, it worked for me. Use a large breaker bar so you don't squish your hand. When you do get the new one on it's 94 ft. lbs. to tighten it.

Good luck.
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Old 11-24-2003, 03:30 PM   #7
stylin2.5rs
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any 1 have any clue on how to get off the other 2 pulleys? They just seem to spin and have just about no way to lock them at all. Do i put on the belt after installing the crank pulley and then remove the 2 bolts while the belt holds them in place? -RJ
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Old 11-24-2003, 03:43 PM   #8
Subaru IMP VR
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Impact wrenchs help alot if you have access try One...!!!
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Old 11-24-2003, 03:46 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally posted by stylin2.5rs
any 1 have any clue on how to get off the other 2 pulleys? They just seem to spin and have just about no way to lock them at all. Do i put on the belt after installing the crank pulley and then remove the 2 bolts while the belt holds them in place? -RJ
Most of the time you can put something through the pully and jam it onto something Immobile and break it free like that and sometimes a C clamp on the pully will make it so it spins but then locks onto something in the engine bay so you can break it free hope any of this helps.........!!
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Old 11-24-2003, 04:10 PM   #10
stylin2.5rs
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wow thanks for the fast reply guyz lol =) im going down to sears today to pick up the new socket for the alternator (24mm I hope!) as well as a huge pry bar. Was wondering what cheap crap can I buy at Sears that would suffice for a impact wrench (no idea what that is lol), or even the C clamp Subaru IMP mentioned (I also have no idea what this is as well, ahhh!). I bet most of these items mentioned probably have a sears made rip-off lol but just wanted to know from other peoples experience the route they took. Thanks fellow subie owners! =D -RJ
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Old 11-24-2003, 08:44 PM   #11
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There is a chain wrench style of Vise-Grip -type pliers tha will help hold a pulley (if you want to re-use/sell the old ones, use a piece of old belt to keep from marring up the pulley with the chain) or the re are starp wrenches that may work as well.

I have aslo read of folks disabling the ignition and using the starter to break the bolt loose.

I would aslo confirm the torque for the crank pulley as in some manuals for some models it si quoted too low. I've heard more like 130 ft/lbs - but double check maybe with the steal - er - dealership.

Carl
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Old 11-24-2003, 09:45 PM   #12
Zephyr
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Yes the alternator pulley nut is a 24mm nut. You may have issues removing it without an impact wrench but you can try the large pipe on the ratchet method which does work. As for the crank pulley either pull the coil wires or pull the ABS/engine fuse from the fuse block. It will allow the engine to turn over but it will disable the ignition and fuel system which is a much better way that pulling the wires plus it's less work. I believe it's the second fuse from the right on the middle row of fuses. Pull the fuse and attempt to start the car, if it turns over but doesn't fire then you've got the right one.

To keep the pullies from turning you can also tighten them up more than they should be so as to keep them from slipping.

Z
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