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Old 11-25-2003, 01:38 PM   #1
Diranged
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Default 30k Maint - need new clutch, brakes, bla bla bla..

So my 30k maintenance is coming up soon (im at 28k). I know that they are going to flush radiator fluid, do an oil change, and a few other things. In addition, I want to do the following but need some advice:

1) Replace Gear + Tranny Oil -- In the past I have heard that Redline oils are good, but can cause some grinding problems. Is this still an issue? What oils would you recomend?

2) Brake upgrade -- I am running on Axxis Ultimate pads and they are awesome. My rotors are definately shot though so I want new ones. Should I just go for stock-sized drilled/slotted rotors, or should I get the AEM "upgrade" that uses slightly thinner, but larger diameter rotors? Anyone have experience with the AEM kit?
(oh and i will be trying to get some SS brake lines)

3) Clutch upgrade -- this is the big one. My clutch has had a hard life. I am looking for a VERY good daily driver clutch, but one with more bite than the stock clutch. What would you guys use?

Thanks for the help, I want to start ordering parts this week..

--Matt
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Old 11-25-2003, 03:54 PM   #2
mexicanpizza
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I'm going through this as we speak. Can't speak about clutch or brakes, mine are fine. Carlsen wanted >$500 to do this service, which is a total JOKE.

Drained, flushed and replaced coolant with Subie coolant.

Oil changed.

I replaced the air filter with a K&N.

I replaced the rear diff oil with Redline 75W90, per recommendations here.

I also bought Redline 75W90NS for the tranny, per recommendations here. Haven't put it in yet because I've got a synchro that's going bad for the second time and will probably have Carlsen warranty it AGAIN! Didn't want to waste $40 worth of synthetic on their drain pan.

Doing brake fluid this weekend.

All dealers say they don't do sparkplugs until 60k on the WRX. I might do some in 10 or 20k more.

******************

Brake upgrade...I would go Stoptech. If you've got the wheels to handle them. Not that expensive for what you get.
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Old 11-25-2003, 07:22 PM   #3
FUNKED1
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Check out the Stage 2 kit for the WRX at www.stoptech.com.
Slotted rotors, pads, SS lines, fluid, all in one box at a good price.

Here's a clutch: http://www.mpjperformance.com/cgi-bi...Code=SUBCLUTCH

Consider doing as much of it as possible yourself and having MPJ or a similar shop do the clutch and brake work.
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Old 11-26-2003, 02:54 AM   #4
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At 30k I replaced gear oil with Redline 75W-90 (I don't remember whether it was the NS or non-NS, whichever one was supposed to go in there)

More notchy and more difficult to get into first and reverse.

Last week (60k) I replaced that with redline shockproof lightweight, and that stuff is way better than the other Redline stuff. I preferred the stock oil to the regular Redline, but the shockproof is nice. It's also BLUE, which is more than a little odd.

As for clutch right now I'm at 35k and going fine (at 25k Subaru gave me a new one from shudder & decel noise) If you don't abuse it badly, you're probably fine for a while. It's not like you're going to save labor on putting it in now. I see a stock clutch as partial insurance on the tranny. As far as upgrading, it seems the Exedy is the way to go for a mild upgrade, and this is what I will do when mine dies.

The AEM kit is pretty much bling factor. They have proven not to stand up to track work, which says something about their durability. Even the stock rotors don't crack along the face when you take them to the track. Check this thread:

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...ight=aem+track

That has some pics of the cracks this guy developed. Those is some healthy cracks.

I have the Subaru 4 pots with DBA 5000 rotors, and for the street this is excellent. I have had no issues with fade (as I did stock) and the feel is MUCH better.

Personally I was initially impressed by the Ultimates, but after a while I realized they are grabby. A lot of initial bite, but difficult to modulate when stopping FAST. I actually like the OEM 4 pot pads better (which are a different compound than the OEM WRX pads) They don't grab as hard at first, but they feel much better mid-brake.
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Old 11-26-2003, 01:28 PM   #5
Diranged
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As for the clutch, I am going to see if Subaru will replace the stock one for free. If not, I'll wait a bit and try to get an Excedy put in somewhere else.

For the brakes, I ended up ordering the AEM kit. I am aware that some people have had them crack under track use, but I never abuse my car that much. I believe (perhaps i shouldnt) that they will hold up to my street driving. If they don't, well hopefully I will be able to get them replaced easily enough.

I'll let you guys know if they turn out to crack even under daily driving use..

Thanks for the help on the oil -- it looks like I'm gonna go with the Valvoline 75W90 oil just because it has seemed to work fine for me so far. Out of curiousity, how hard is it to change that oil yourself? I'm not interested in paying the dealer for that, if its easy..

--Matt
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Old 11-26-2003, 01:31 PM   #6
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Are you going to install the AEM kit yourself? Def. keep us updated...

-Preston

Last edited by soundwave; 11-26-2003 at 01:57 PM.
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Old 11-26-2003, 01:44 PM   #7
Diranged
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Quote:
Originally posted by soundwave
Are you going to install the AEM kit youreself? Def. keep us updated...

-Preston
Yah, I always do brake upgrades myself.
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Old 11-26-2003, 02:05 PM   #8
Concillian
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Quote:
Originally posted by Diranged
Out of curiousity, how hard is it to change that oil yourself? I'm not interested in paying the dealer for that, if its easy..
It's easy.

There is a large drain plug under the car, it's very obvious, a hex with a hollow center that sits flat on the bottom of the tranny. It's like 21 or 22 or something, I forget, but bigger than the 19mm for the lugs.

The fill is through the dipstick right under the intercooler on the turbo side. It's a bronze dipstick that sticks out at an angle. You need a LONG funnel or a funnel + vinyl tube to get there comfortably without removing the IC.

Drain
wipe the fine shavings from the magnetic plug
Install plug
fill (3.7 quarts capacity)

Easier than an oil change, since there's no messy filter to deal with.

-- Matt
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Old 11-26-2003, 03:02 PM   #9
Diranged
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Sweet, sounds easy -- I'll definately save the cash and do it myself.

What about the axles?

--Matt
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Old 11-26-2003, 04:14 PM   #10
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try baic.net
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Old 11-26-2003, 06:33 PM   #11
mexicanpizza
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The rear diff has two plugs that you just stick a 1/2" socket in there. Take the fill plug (top) one off, then the bottom one, drain, clean up the magnetic plug, reinstall it, pump new fluid into fill hole until it leaks out. Plug top hole, be done with it.
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Old 12-10-2003, 02:41 PM   #12
Diranged
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So I did the tranny fluid and the k&n air filter. While I was at it, I also put in a Kartboy short shifter.

I have gotten almost all of the rest of the parts to finish up the maintenance/upgrade. The AEM big brake kit came in the mail and it is friggen hUGE. I'm actually glad that the AEM rotors are a bit "thinner" than the stock rotors because it probably helped save on weight. I also have the Axxis Ultimate pads and the SS brake lines from Stoptech. These brake lines are gorgeous and are not just SS, but are coated in some sort of clear plastic to help protect them. Very spiffy!

I'll let you guys know how this weekends upgrade goes and whether or not this brake kit was worth it.

--Matt
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Old 12-10-2003, 03:17 PM   #13
whitt
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Hey,

for the clutch when you are ready to upgrade the ACT street clutch is excelent. I think they call it the street/strip clutch but it is their stock style replacement, It is much stiffer, has a great feel, is still very streetable, and can handle a lot more abuse and power than the stock one.

Good luck
DW
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Old 12-10-2003, 04:25 PM   #14
deyes
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I have redline in the rear diff of my Talon, but I use BG syncroshift in the transfer case and transmission, if anyone knows DSM's they know that because of the lack of dual syncros for the first and second gear, they tend to grind. But not with the syncroshift. I've also heard good things about GM's syncromesh. I've got an ACT2600 in my talon and swear by it, though it may be a bit much for most, I've heard that stock wrx clutches produce better 0-60 times in modded wrx's anyone verify this?
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Old 12-10-2003, 07:02 PM   #15
KimchiHo
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So, did anybody here bring their cars in for the 30k mile service? Like mexicanpizza said, >$500 at Carlsen is a pretty insane amount of money. Does anybody know of a dealership that does this service for cheaper and does a good job? Or, is it the general consensus that people should do this on their own? Thanks.

- KimchiHo
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Old 12-11-2003, 02:13 AM   #16
ejicon
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Question

I'm switching to Synthetic oil this weekend once I get fumoto drain plug. I'm using MOBIL ONE since everyone says it's good stuff. (I'll just have to see for myself) SO the question is, what OIL Filter do I use.. Since Synthetic oil is to be changed between 5k-7k miles, OEM filters and the cheap filters probably won't do they're job after 3,5k miles. I know FRAM has a new X2 oil filter that lasts up to 7k miles. It's like 9 bucks @ Walmart. Autozone has a K&N Oil filter for like 12 bucks. Any suggestions would be helpful before and I go and buy the wrong filter...
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Old 12-11-2003, 12:37 PM   #17
Diranged
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I would recomend that even with Synthetic you do not go 7k miles without an oil change. I have never gone more than 4000 miles on Mobile One and let me tell you, at 4000 miles the oil came out nearly black. I cant imageine what 7000miles would look like
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Old 12-13-2003, 07:31 PM   #18
Diranged
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So I finished the AEM/Stoptech Brake upgrade today and I am both impressed and unimpressed.

The quality of the rotors/kit hardware is excelent. The new pieces are very light and seem very strong. The Stoptech SS Brake lines are also beautifull and perfectly fitting.

The Stoptech lines went on first and that was easy. We then removed the stock calipers and cleaned/painted them. Then we installed the new rotors and the bracket and the calipers again when they were dry. This total took about 2.5 hours -- the paint took the longest.

The trouble came when I tried to put the wheels on and -- they didnt fit. It turns out that the Rota Subzeros have a thick outer lip that just quite doesnt fit the new kit.

After about an hour with the grinder I was able to grind off a SAFE amount on the caliper and re-paint everything and reinstall everything. One note, I only took off enough to clear the wheel -- we then moved the wheel-weights more inside of the wheel so that they would not hit.

After everything was together we did the break in stops and the brakes got progressively better each time. Ive only put about 3 miles on them so I dont have any longterm opinions, but other than the wheels not fitting right, the whole kit was awesome. I had every piece that I needed.

I am uploading over 60 megs of pictures to my gallery and will send a link when they're available.
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Old 12-13-2003, 11:51 PM   #19
Diranged
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Old 12-14-2003, 04:25 AM   #20
DarkAngel
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umm I think you put the rotor on backwards
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Old 12-14-2003, 12:26 PM   #21
Diranged
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Quote:
Originally posted by DarkAngel
umm I think you put the rotor on backwards
Trust me -- they only go on one way.

--Matt
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Old 12-14-2003, 02:24 PM   #22
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but I always see the slotted rotors spinning the other way.
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Old 12-14-2003, 02:32 PM   #23
Diranged
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Oh I mis-read your post

I suppose its possible that the slots are going the "wrong" way -- but I have seen them go both ways.

Anyone have any input on this -- is it "better" to have the slots going a particular direction?
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Old 12-14-2003, 06:17 PM   #24
DarkAngel
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Quote:
Originally posted by Diranged
Oh I mis-read your post

I suppose its possible that the slots are going the "wrong" way -- but I have seen them go both ways.

Anyone have any input on this -- is it "better" to have the slots going a particular direction?
actually I just went through tons of mags just looking at cars rotors and I saw them go both ways. I guess it dosnt matter
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Old 12-16-2003, 06:03 PM   #25
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Back to the 30k service topic (although those brakes/rotors are nice), my 02 WRX is at that point and I'm not sure what to do.

Unfortunately I don't live in a place where I can easily do work on my car myself anymore, so am looking for some options about where I can get 30k maintenance done. I also have my ECU reflashed, and a turboback exhaust, so don't even want to deal with dealers whining at me even though the car is almost out of warranty.

So does anyone have any recommendations in SF or as close to the city as possible for WRX maintenance? I think my fallback plan is to take it to Subaru of Santa Cruz, since they did my 15k service with the same mods, and they provided better pricing and outstanding service compared to other dealers. Spending all day in Santa Cruz without my car isn't really my idea of fun however.

Any feedback is appreciated.
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