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Old 10-03-2000, 08:09 AM   #1
Sean
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Member#: 518
Join Date: Nov 1999
Chapter/Region: NESIC
Location: Trunkmonkey Racing
Vehicle:
762 PGT Impreza L,
Silverado EXT, Yaris

Exclamation Heavy duty swaybar mounts, read this if you can't get them to fit the passenger side!

This is in response to RalliSpec's posting about the person who wanted to return the bar because they couldn't get the swaybar mounts to fit on the passenger side. Well, duh. You have to remove some stuff. It's a two hour, two person job. I installed the SPO kit, but you have to follow these steps for the Whiteline kit as well.

Jack up the passenger side. Put a jackstand under the arm. Remove the wheel. Unscrew the fuel line at the filler cap. Remove the plastic fuel line protector. Unscrew the fuel line from the chassis. Unscrew the carbon filter. The fuel line now has about half an inch of play. You can now fit a universal socket in there.

Look at is this way...they (Subaru) had to get that bolt in there somehow...just reverse the steps that Subaru did. Sure, a half hour installation without a jack now becomes a two hour installation with a jack, but it's well worth it.













Trunkmonkey is here! There is no cone...
Sean Sosik-Hamor < sean@trunkmonkey.com >
Epinions Automotive Reviews by `Sean
47STS MY98 Subaru Impreza Outback Sport
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Old 10-03-2000, 10:11 AM   #2
8Complex

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Post

Just in case other people are having trouble with the endlinks (I did, but fixed it pretty easily), it looks like Whiteline made them quickly and didn't deburr the edges of the metal inserts. I just took a dremel bit that was shaped like a cone and deburr it myself - went in easily then.

Just thought I'd share this since I didn't have the problem above, but I did have this one.
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Old 10-03-2000, 10:58 AM   #3
Sean
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Silverado EXT, Yaris

Wink

Whups, duh, Whiteline isn't alone on this. My SPO links needed to be deburred as well. Took about 10 minutes with a finishing file (all I had at my disposal).

Trunkmonkey is here! There is no cone...
Sean Sosik-Hamor < sean@trunkmonkey.com >
Epinions Automotive Reviews by `Sean
47STS MY98 Subaru Impreza Outback Sport
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Old 10-03-2000, 11:02 AM   #4
Snoopy
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99 Impreza RS
Silverthorn Metallic

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Did you know your car ran over a red head? I think he'd dead.
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Old 10-03-2000, 11:04 AM   #5
Jewbaru
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huh? I'm a tad lost (lunch time, can't think without food), are you talking about not being able to fit a socket wrench around the bolt?
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Old 10-03-2000, 11:09 AM   #6
Sean
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Jewbaru - Look at the fourth pic with Chip (my co-driver) under the car. See where the silver fuel filler line passes in front of the gold swaybar mount I'm pointing at? When the filler line is bolted in, it passes directly above the bolt that holds the mount to the chassis.

In order to get a socket onto the head of that bolt, you have to get the filler line out of the way. Some guys have just bent it (uhm, smaaart) but I opted for a less destructive approach. Even with the filler line unbolted, however, a second guy still needs to use a prybar to hold it (not bend it) out of the way while the guy under the car tightens it up.

The issue is that the rear swaybar mounts are put on before the fuel system so the filler line isn't in the way when the car is first assembled. That, and the US gets all of this smog crap that's also in the way. Simple to unbolt, just time consuming.

Trunkmonkey is here! There is no cone...
Sean Sosik-Hamor < sean@trunkmonkey.com >
Epinions Automotive Reviews by `Sean
47STS MY98 Subaru Impreza Outback Sport
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Old 10-03-2000, 11:15 AM   #7
8Complex

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Post

Just looking at the first pic here, it looks like it can easily be pushed slightly towards the bar and you can get a socket on, but really thinking about it, there is the weld to the bar in your way, isn't there?

BTW, in the full scene shot, what is that round flat grey thing that has the wrench on it under the rear corner of the car? Some kinda pad to lay on partially when you get under the car, or maybe just a tool "bench"-type surface?
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Old 10-03-2000, 11:15 AM   #8
cakagan
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1998 Impreza 2.5 RS
Black

Question

How difficult is it to change the settings on the Whiteline bar with the stock mounts/vs. the heavy-duty ones?

Thanks,
-Kagan
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Old 10-03-2000, 11:32 AM   #9
Sean
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Post

8C - Actually, the fuel line has to be pushed away from the bar, towards the axle. I tried pushing it the other way and it wouldn't budge enough. It'll only move an inch or so.

cakagan - Once you get the bar on, it's cake to adjust. The problem is that the new bar is so fat it's real hard to stuff it in the stock mounts. It'll fit, it's just difficult. Look at the last pic...see the three holes? Just unbolt, move to the new hole, rebolt. Takes about 3 minutes total without jacking up the car.

8C Again - They're concrete patio blocks for making garden paths. I drive the rear tires up onto them so it's easier to climb under the car. No need to buy ramps when I have the perfect size sitting in the garden. You can just barely see the tire and exhaust, but you get the idea:



Trunkmonkey is here! There is no cone...
Sean Sosik-Hamor < sean@trunkmonkey.com >
Epinions Automotive Reviews by `Sean
47STS MY98 Subaru Impreza Outback Sport

[This message has been edited by Sean (edited October 03, 2000).]
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Old 10-03-2000, 11:43 AM   #10
8Complex

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Post

LOL nice. I've been considering some ramps, just for this purpose. I think I may have a hookup for some "blocks" in case I really need to work on my car and get it up in the air (maybe 12-14" up... they're 3/8" thick steel boxes used for heavy machinery blower mounting).

A while ago I was thinking of getting some I-beams like ones used in heavy building construction maybe 12"x12" and cutting them to the length of the car then putting ramps at one of the ends of each so I can drive up on them. Kinda nuts, but it's easier then digging a ditch, I suppose.
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Old 10-03-2000, 02:05 PM   #11
Sean
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Location: Trunkmonkey Racing
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762 PGT Impreza L,
Silverado EXT, Yaris

Post

SPO - Aha...my kit didn't come with directions. Anyway, yeah, on an MY98 Impreza 2.2 OBS, even a universal socket can't fit behind the fuel filler line. The bolt from the bracket, as you unscrew it, unscrews directly into the line. Perhaps it's different on a 2.5 RS.

By the way, awesome product. I was under the impression that the bar I ordered was an 18/20/22mm but your directions say 19mm...I'll have to doublecheck your Web site and see what the specs are (if the new bar is up yet).

Edit - Yup, 19/20/21mm, changed my mods page. Teehee. Still awesome!

Trunkmonkey is here! There is no cone...
Sean Sosik-Hamor < sean@trunkmonkey.com >
Epinions Automotive Reviews by `Sean
47STS MY98 Subaru Impreza Outback Sport

[This message has been edited by Sean (edited October 03, 2000).]
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Old 10-03-2000, 02:52 PM   #12
Gambit
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Post

Sean...with all these mods, what class are you in for Solo II?
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Old 10-03-2000, 02:59 PM   #13
Sean
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762 PGT Impreza L,
Silverado EXT, Yaris

Post

I'm currently in STS. When I put on the BFG Comp T/A R1s I'll be in STR.

Trunkmonkey is here! There is no cone...
Sean Sosik-Hamor < sean@trunkmonkey.com >
Epinions Automotive Reviews by `Sean
47STS MY98 Subaru Impreza Outback Sport
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Old 10-04-2000, 01:55 AM   #14
SPO MOTORSPORTS
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Location: Vancouver, WA 98683
Post

Here are the Sway bar Install instructions for the SPO Motorsports swaybar. It should take about 30-60 minutes to install. There is no prep need to the swaybar. We have had many customers install the swaybar and had no problem with getting it installed in 30-45 min or less.


CAREFLLY READ INSTRUCTION BEFORE INSTALLING
TOOLS NEEDED
1) 12mm wrench
1) 14mm wrench
3) 12mm deep socket
4) 14mm deep socket
5) 6” extenuation
1) ratchet
1) 6” std screw driver
1) high quality car ramps
1) wheel blocks or cogs

SET UP
A) Place car on to ramps, set parking brake and block the wheels.
B) Locate mid and tail pipe connection, remove two 12mm bolts. Save gasket to be reused.
C) Using 6” STD screwdriver remove muffler section from rubber exhaust hangers.
D) Remove lower sway bar end links using 14mm wrench/socket.
E) Passenger side take 12mm deep socket w/6”extention, locate and remove two nuts on bumper side of charcoal can, then remove nut on front of canister. Locate and remove sway bar mounts.
F) Driver side; locate and remove 12mm sway-bar mounts
G) Carefully remove sway bar and place on floor. TAKE NOTE OF MOUNTING POSITING AND HARDWARE, for assembly of new sway bar.
H) Take SPO Motorsports sway bar and place on floor, same position as OEM bar.
I) Take main urethane bushing sway-bar mounts, remove from U-bracket and spread apart flat end. Using provided sway-bar lubricant, lubricate main sway-bar bushings
J) Spread main sway-bar bushings over sway bar similar to OEM mounting points.
K) Take metals U-bracket slide over urethane bushings on the sway bar.
L) Take 12mm wench/socket. Using four short nuts/bolts attach corresponding driver side left/passenger side right mounting hard ware.
M) Take 14mm wench/socket. Attach end links using washer simmer to OEM. *** NOTE USE FIRST POSITION OR END HOLE. This is softest setting and the only place you should start.
N) Using OEM mounting bolts reassemble sawyer in reverse order of disassembly
O) Check all mounting point and tighten mounting bolts.


CAUTION: START WITH THE SWAYBAR ON THE SOFTEST (19MM) SETING. The swaybar will make a large change in how the car handles, so take caution. The swaybar will invoke oversteer when throttle is left off in corners.
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