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Old 09-18-2006, 02:52 PM   #1
SloRice
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Default Aftermarket MAP Sensor Installation DIY

Since the release of the new UTEC speed density firmware, a lot of people have been asking how to install an aftermarket MAP sensor. So here it is.

Why do you want to do this?
Well, the stock MAP sensor only has resolution up to about 22psi. Anything higher than this and the stock MAP sensor won't know what the exact boost pressure is. By installing an aftermarket MAP sensor, you now have resolution up to 3 bar (~30psi) or 5 bar (~60psi) depending on what sensor you buy.

What do you want to buy?
There are two MAP sensors you can buy. The first is the GM 3 bar MAP sensor. This came stock in the old GM V6 turbo cars. Here is a link to purchase one of this. http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1551143

The other sensor is the TurboXS 5 bar MAP sensor. This can be purchased directly from TurboXS. www.turboxs.com

How to hook it up.
I personally bought the TurboXS sensor. I'm assuming the GM sensor will install the same way.

1. Find a place to mount the MAP sensor inside the engine bay. Somewhere on the passenger side would be my recommendation.
2. Find a vacuum source on the intake manifold to tie into. I have mine tied into the same line that goes to my BOV.
3. Connect a vacuum line from the sensor to the vacuum source on the manifold.
4. Run the wires from the MAP sensor into the cabin using the grommet on the passenger side firewall that the stock wiring harness goes through.
5. Remove front passenger door sill.
6. pull back carpet to expose the ECU kickpanel.
7. Remove ECU kickpanel to expose ECU and UTEC.
8.The TurboXS MAP sensor has three (3) wires coming from it. A power wire, ground wire and a signal wire. The MAP sensor is powered by a 5V source, so you can't just plug it into any power source. You have to find the power source for the stock MAP sensor. You also need to find the signal wire for the stock MAP sensor.
9. Here is a pinout diagram for the ECU. If you are looking at the ECU in the car, the plugs are on the right side of the ECU. Plug B134 is on the bottom and plug B137 is on the top. The two wires for the stock MAP sensor are in plug B136 (so the third plug from the bottom).
10. The 5V power source for the stock MAP sensor is terminal #16 and the signal wire is terminal #22. You will need to find these two wires on the stock wiring harness.



11. Once you have found the power wire in the stock harness, you will need to splice into it. Then you need to solder the power wire from the aftermarket MAP sensor into the stock MAP sensor power wire in the stock wiring harness. The ground wire for the aftermarket MAP sensor can be grounded the chassis. I chose the same bolt that I have the UTEC grounded to.
12. Now cut the signal wire in the stock wiring harness and the UTEC harness. Run a jumper cable from the wire on the stock wiring harness that goes to the sensor over to the wire on the UTEC wiring harness that goes into the ECU. You have now bypassed the UTEC with the stock MAP sensor.
13. Take the signal wire from the aftermarket MAP sensor and connect it to the wire from the stock wiring harness that goes into the UTEC. You have now wired the aftermarket sensor into the UTEC. Tape off the end of the signal wire that comes out of the UTEC...you will do nothing with that.
14. Reinstall ECU kickplate, carpet and door sill.

Sensor Calibration
1. Go to the UTEC main menu in Hyperterminal
2. Go to "Edit Maps"
3. Go to "Parameters"
4. Go to "Special Constants"
5. Inside there, you will find Map Calibration (Gradient) and Map Calibration (Intercept).
6. On the aftermarket MAP sensor, they should have given you a card that have 4 numbers - minimum (M0) and maximum (M1) voltage numbers and minimum (P0) and maximum (P1) pressure numbers.
7. Using these formulas, you can find out what your Gradient and Intercept are.

Gradient = 19607.843 x (P1-P0) / (M1-M0)
Intercept = [(Gradient x .051 x M0) - (1000 x P0)] / 100

8. Type these two numbers into UTEC and save them.
9. Take the car on the street with an accurate boost gauge and make sure that everything is functioning correctly.



This is just a starter right now. I will get some pictures to go along with these steps in the next couple days. Let me know if I missed anything.
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Old 09-21-2006, 07:04 PM   #2
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How to use the dtec calibration info to translate into a intercept and gradiant for the UTEC.

That's where I'm at right now....
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Old 09-21-2006, 09:00 PM   #3
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The four numbers on the card that come with the DTEC MAP sensor is what you use in those 2 equations I gave in the first post. That will give you the Gradient and Intercept numbers for the UTEC. M0 and M1 are the voltage numbers and P0 and P1 are the psi numbers on that card.

But from talking with Mick at PDX, you can't tee off the DTEC MAP sensor into the UTEC because the DTEC and UTEC don't seem to get along. I tried that originally as I have the DTEC also and it didn't work. So I ponied up the $100 for the TXS MAP sensor. You get that same card that came with the DTEC MAP sensor.
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Old 09-22-2006, 10:24 AM   #4
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Nice write up!

I'll have to find the Gradient numbers for the GM sensor. I now someone has posted this earlier.

I tried to get that sensor from that link above but the paypal link did not work. I tried to call them and got no answer but it was 8:15am so maybe they weren't open. I ended up getting mine off of Ebay for $55 shipped but the pigtail was another $20 so it was the same price. Just do a search on Ebay for GM 3 bar map.

Just to add:
Its also important to flash the stock ECM so it won't trigger fuel cut. The free flash utilities and a Tactrix cable can do this.
http://www.tactrix.com/index.php?cPa...27f44f5b9456c2
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Old 09-22-2006, 10:51 AM   #5
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^^Good Info for the fuel cut. I'll need to add that.

There is some good info on the GM MAP sensor in my other thread - http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=1060816

Sorry for the delay in getting the pictures. I'm in the process of tearing down a STI engine and a IS300 engine. I'll get them this weekend though.
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Old 09-22-2006, 11:09 AM   #6
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The Gradient and Intercept numbers from TXS for the GM 3bar are not accurate. I have a feeling that it is a quality issue with the sensor itself. The 2 people that have installed them around here had #'s that are way off from the ones supplied by TXS.
What I did was to compare the stock ECU reading with the Utec+3bar reading after using the #'s supplied by TXS. The 3bar reading was off by ~9psi, so I wnet through the MAP cal procedure in the Utec manual. Now the Utec+3bar matches the stock ECU with in .1psi.

TMS
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Old 09-23-2006, 06:43 PM   #7
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I dont know if anyone has mentioned this yet or not, I dont have too much time to surf the forums anymore. There are/were atleast 3 different GM 3 bar map sensors you could get unless you asked for a specific part number. I think they all end up superceeding to a 12223861, but you should check the p/n you are working with in comparision to the cal numbers you are using, if the cal numbers are someone elses. I run a p/n 12223861, and that will read from -14.4 to 31.1 psi, a p/n 12219935 will read from -8.3 to 30.8 and a p/n 16040749 will read from -13.1 to 29.3. All those sensors would require different cal numbers. I have my gradient set to 188 and intercept is at 148. Utec and delta dash all report boost within .1 psi up to 23psi. Also dont forget that our cars tend to have some dirty grounds and that will also effect the cal readings. So I would recommend making some aux grounds to make sure all the sensors are reading optimaly, double check what sensor you have and calibrate the sensor like the Utec manual says.
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Old 09-30-2006, 10:20 AM   #8
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The only TXS thing I could find isthe $120 map sensor associated with the DTEC - kinda expensive- is that the same you are talking about ?
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Old 10-01-2006, 11:25 AM   #9
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Hey guys, should I worry about high altitude? The reason I ask is Map sensors typically measure in absolute terms. 10 psi gauge here in Colorado (5800 ft) vs. 10 psi gauge at sea level differs by 2.4 psi in absolute terms because the local atmospheric pressure is different due to the altitude delta (Colorado is 12.3 psi absolute vs. 14.7 psi absolute at sea level). Wouldn't this 2.4 psi error would have a huge impact on the sensor calibration?

Per the drawing with 5.1 VDC input:

* 40 kPa results in 0.501 to 0.761 VDC. This equates to 5.801 psia and will produce an average Vout of 0.631 VDC
* 71 kPa results in 1.058 to 1.210 VDC. This equates to 10.298 psia and will produce an average Vout of 1.134 VDC
* 240 kPa results in 3.816 to 3.952 VDC. This equates to 34.809 psia and will produce an average Vout of 3.884 VDC
* 304 kPa results in 4.784 to 5.044 VDC. This equates to 44.091 psia and will produce an average Vout of 4.914 VDC

I uploaded the Cad drawing and specs of 12223861 to my site
Thanks to the Ebay vendor tnttechnologies!
http://home.comcast.net/~k5shawn/gm3barsensor.pdf

It also notes that you should mount this sensor at 30 degrees so any condensation or liquid will drain away from the sensor cell and it should be higher than the vacuum source.

Last edited by R0DENT; 10-01-2006 at 11:57 AM.
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Old 10-01-2006, 11:42 PM   #10
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The trick is to get the sensor to read gauge pressure so if you calibrate it using the normal TXS instructions you should get the sensor to follow the gauge...which is what you want, no?
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Old 10-01-2006, 11:44 PM   #11
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As far as I know, the calibration has nothing to do with absolute or gauge pressure. I assume this because the utec probably knows that the gauge reports gauge pressure.

peace

Last edited by hippy; 10-02-2006 at 12:24 AM.
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Old 10-16-2006, 06:19 PM   #12
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Great stuff!

Has anyone with a LINK PnP bought a 5 bar?Calibration?
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Old 11-10-2006, 06:16 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by R0DENT View Post
Nice write up!

I'll have to find the Gradient numbers for the GM sensor. I now someone has posted this earlier.

I tried to get that sensor from that link above but the paypal link did not work. I tried to call them and got no answer but it was 8:15am so maybe they weren't open. I ended up getting mine off of Ebay for $55 shipped but the pigtail was another $20 so it was the same price. Just do a search on Ebay for GM 3 bar map.

Just to add:
Its also important to flash the stock ECM so it won't trigger fuel cut. The free flash utilities and a Tactrix cable can do this.
http://www.tactrix.com/index.php?cPa...27f44f5b9456c2

From the above, I take it that Since the ECU is now getting Unedited readings from the UTEC on the MAP Signal ( Bypassed UTEC Straight to the ECU) Now UTEC losses Fuel Cut control. Am I right? If so is there any other way around this.
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Old 11-11-2006, 07:14 AM   #14
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You are correct, you lose the the UTEC's fuel cut control. You will have to flash the fuel cut out of the stock ECU.
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Old 11-15-2006, 10:55 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zornorph View Post
The only TXS thing I could find isthe $120 map sensor associated with the DTEC - kinda expensive- is that the same you are talking about ?
Same results .....
Is the DTEC map sensor the one we have to use?
Or turboxs has a diferrent 5 bar map sensor for the UTEC? ....

Jose
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Old 11-15-2006, 02:58 PM   #16
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I just found this:

MapDaddy 4 bar:
http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/m...ion-p-117.html

The sales guy at DIYautotune says that it is a 0 to 5V output on their sensor. I might have to try it.

TMS
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Old 11-15-2006, 03:15 PM   #17
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I've run into an issue with this method. This method bypasses the UTEC FCD and caused me to hit fuel cut on an 06 last night. Anyone else run into this?

Fuel cut was a problem, ECU cut both injectors and pump.
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Old 11-15-2006, 04:39 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mick_the_ginge View Post
I've run into an issue with this method. This method bypasses the UTEC FCD and caused me to hit fuel cut on an 06 last night. Anyone else run into this?

Fuel cut was a problem, ECU cut both injectors and pump.
Quote:
Originally Posted by SloRice View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by cegpcola View Post
From the above, I take it that Since the ECU is now getting Unedited readings from the UTEC on the MAP Signal ( Bypassed UTEC Straight to the ECU) Now UTEC losses Fuel Cut control. Am I right? If so is there any other way around this.
You are correct, you lose the the UTEC's fuel cut control. You will have to flash the fuel cut out of the stock ECU.
.....
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Old 11-15-2006, 04:55 PM   #19
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smarty pants posting a quote from the same thread. yep, but the ECU was reflashed with a higher cut, it still cut. It was not an issue with a car with a bigMAF and SD tune, but was an issue with a blow through setup with smaller MAF housing. Issue with an 06, both EcuTek and Cobb AP issue.

Last edited by mick_the_ginge; 11-15-2006 at 04:59 PM. Reason: Added Info
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Old 11-15-2006, 05:16 PM   #20
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Was the "higher cut" not set high enough?

I'd set the ECU's fuel cut so high that it would essentially be disabled, then use the UTEC's OLF fuel cut explicitly... or am I not completely understanding the situation?
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Old 11-15-2006, 07:29 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mick_the_ginge View Post
I've run into an issue with this method. This method bypasses the UTEC FCD and caused me to hit fuel cut on an 06 last night. Anyone else run into this?

Fuel cut was a problem, ECU cut both injectors and pump.

Yes you have to either reflash the ecu or use a FCD.

TMS
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Old 11-15-2006, 08:28 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by x99percent View Post
Was the "higher cut" not set high enough?

I'd set the ECU's fuel cut so high that it would essentially be disabled, then use the UTEC's OLF fuel cut explicitly... or am I not completely understanding the situation?
Set it very high..... way higher than the target. Sounds like we maybe the only ones running into it at this time. Strange.

Yes, the whole idea is to keep the stock ecu happy with the stock MAP signal but ensure it does not trigger any boost based cut. Then use the UTEC SW boost cut based on the aftermarket sensor. Strange, very strange...

This was a Cobb AP with UTEC on top.

Last edited by mick_the_ginge; 11-15-2006 at 08:29 PM. Reason: Added info
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Old 11-15-2006, 09:01 PM   #23
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I set the FC to 29.99psi in the ECU. Since the sensor only reads to ~24.8psi the FC is gone in the ECU.

TMS
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Old 11-16-2006, 10:15 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mick_the_ginge View Post
Set it very high..... way higher than the target. Sounds like we maybe the only ones running into it at this time. Strange.

Yes, the whole idea is to keep the stock ecu happy with the stock MAP signal but ensure it does not trigger any boost based cut. Then use the UTEC SW boost cut based on the aftermarket sensor. Strange, very strange...

This was a Cobb AP with UTEC on top.
WRX or STi?

Did you check/read the code for the CEL? ...err... was there a CEL?
Are you perhaps hitting a MAF CEL limit instead?
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Old 11-16-2006, 11:03 AM   #25
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no CEL. 4.8 MAF volts
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