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Old 12-16-2003, 02:57 AM   #1
supermoose
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Member#: 9093
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: SF
Vehicle:
1995 RHD STi RA Ver2
swap starr

Wink cracked the L-->GDA fuel pump conversion

word. i r have won.direct bolt in. but first i need some help/imput on somthing ive been fighting:

ive got a poo-ey hot-start issue on my swap (complete EJ18 brains running DOHC EJ25). the issue has just come up recently, it has run about 10,000 miles perfectly happy with out problems.

symptons: when stuff is warm after car has been running a while, and i park it for a short period - 5-10 minutes mostly, less than 1/2 hour ive observed, the car when fired up again, will crank and then die.

after i get some rev's on it it will go, and afte rsome load on the motor it will idle hapyily.

what ive changed to other parts that were not known as defective:

coil pack
spark plugs (2x)
crank pos. sensor
cam pos. sensor
engine coolant temp sensor
GDA fuel pump conversion (tonite)

** just swapped charcol canisters and 1 way valve thingy tonite*** we will see tomoro.

the issue has been on and off. sometimes more annoying than others.

so suggestions are welcome.

now what to what you wanted to read this post for

how to make GDA fuel pump happy in a 93L with minimal work.

need:
1 gda fuel pump, rubber foot thingy, filter bag (not nessacary but welcome). short section of fuel line 4" should do, 2 clamps for fuel line

tools:
dremmel tool
drill with random bits
some sockets
gloves bc i like the snappy noise


okay. so u access the fuel tank; remove seats(12mm sox), flimsy buisness, 4 phillps screws for access door guy, unplug electronic thingybob harness that goes to fuel pump, crank motor so theres no pressure left.

clean the hell outa the area. no wants poo-gas.

then u remove the 8 or so small 8mm hex nuts that hold the the cover door on, fanagle off the fuel in and out lines. pliers on return, phillips on other.

then u have to wiggle hte whole monstor assembly out. it will contain the pump itself, couple metal tubes (pump is attached to 1, bracket with 1 phillips screw, rubber shoe for pump, bag guy with circlip guy holding to pump, some misx wires, the fuel level guage.

so detach the pump. the L pump is a monstOrous barrel type thingy. WRX one is smaller but in genrally hte same dimensions.

the L pump is powered by 2 wires, + and - obviously, they are marked. red wire is +, black is -. usually is like that, but there are markings on the pump. write them down before u remove both. they are connected by the wire having an eyelet and a phillips + nut holding them togeather

GDA pump has hte same business going on. + by 1 - by other. draw a picture of it and label it. do it. trust me.

so you will notice that the GDA pump is attached via 2 tabs and a pluggy guy that goes into it. most likely if u bought one from random misc guy on boards for $25 shipped, he didnt cut the plug into pump harness off his car and give it to you. no fear. u dont need it. this is where secret trick comes in......

FYI, a honda pump (at least my DC2 integra one) was almost identical to the GDA one. same make, same everything (rubber shoe etc) harness was `slighly` differnt, but woulda plugged in with some noogie-ing.

so the secret trick:

i looked at the tabs on the L pump and looked at the GDA one, and figured i could make them both the same type.

the tabs on the GDA pump is surrounded by the square business that the plug plugs into. so remove it. thats what the drmmel will be for. be nice to it, or you will hate yourself. also do this operation AWAY from the gas fumes :P. so dremmel off the sides of the plug recepticle, u cant get to the inside part, so just break it off. it will easily -brittle plastic

there u have it. 2 tabs. 1 + 1 -. hopefully u made the picture or took one and labeld it incase u overdremmeled and killed the markings.

now get a drill. sharp bits a +. get the little screw from the L pump and put it next to your drill bits to see how big it needs to get. start small, get bigger and keep fitting. i have enough balls and "fine" motor skills (ghetto faboulous fab skills) to do it freehand. u need to drill a hole big enough to fit the screw through in a small tab of metal.

after u do that on both (and be nice to centre output pipe guy) u can fit everything togeather, put rubber bootie over the + wire and tab, and then re-assemble everything happily. pump will fit, u need a slightly longer piece of fuel hose. id suggest some differnt hose clamps too, didnt want to re-use the stock funky clamp guys.

so put back togeather, and stuf it in your car. tips: dont turn on ignition before you have in and out hoses attached to the fuel tank.

anyone want to host pix? i r dont have brains to play that game.

its easy to do. can be done by a monkey like me in about 2 hours.
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Old 12-16-2003, 07:33 AM   #2
Storm
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Join Date: Mar 2001
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: SAUL'S Motorsports
Vehicle:
96L Most Over-
Developed Beater

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Should I buy any particular type of snappy-glove-sound-making gloves?

I did this very thing a couple months ago for sheetzNgiggles!


Woo Hoo!
Jay Storm
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Old 12-16-2003, 11:54 AM   #3
Jaxx
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Member#: 177
Join Date: Aug 1999
Chapter/Region: NWIC
Location: Boise,Idaho,USA
Vehicle:
The 93 Imp W/EJ20K
flat black

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summary
label + and - on gda pump
cut off plastic shrould off gda pump
drill holes in metal conductors for the screws
longer pice of fuel line
cover + terminal
use new hose clamps

i still need to do this
may wait for it to be warm tho
i can host the imges ill shoot you a pm
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Old 12-16-2003, 12:26 PM   #4
supermoose
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Member#: 9093
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: SF
Vehicle:
1995 RHD STi RA Ver2
swap starr

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word. hahah. i love my dremmel toool.

i like the ac-delco ones. theyre blue and make a firm snappy-glove-snapping noize.

h
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Old 12-16-2003, 12:37 PM   #5
supermoose
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Member#: 9093
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: SF
Vehicle:
1995 RHD STi RA Ver2
swap starr

Default

word. hahah. i love my dremmel toool.

i like the ac-delco ones. theyre blue and make a firm snappy-glove-snapping noize.

h
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