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Old 08-24-2011, 05:33 PM   #451
jeffwhite07
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vien View Post
i got the codes again i dont know why but i either get p0171 code or i get the p0133 which is bank one slow response idunno what to do my o2 is fairly new 25k on it and my maf works perfect

did u try fuel filter and spark plugs amd vacume leaks im having the same problem i installed a perrin inlet pipe any ideas?
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Old 08-25-2011, 12:04 AM   #452
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I had bought this car about a month or so ago (02 WRX.) I bought it with this code on it for a very good price. Anyways, the former owner hadnt taken care of some things and here is where i started on my journey to fix this code.

I first took off the cheap ebay knock off bov. This did not fix my problem. Next i took the airbox out along with the maf. I sealed the airbox because the former owner clearly did not know how to seal it properly and i cleaned the MAF. Neither of these fixed my issue.

Then i noticed he had over tightened the stock turbo inlet and caused a nice tear in the boot. I replaced this entirely with an aftermarket. Still i had not fixed my issue.

As i kept reading on the forum i went ahead and took off my IACV (Idle Air Control Valve.) I cleaned it with carb cleaner and q-tips. After this i placed the IACV back into its eletrical port and turned the key forward. I found out it was now sparking. I ordered the stock IACV from subaru and it fixed my problem.

My symptoms were different as each part i changed fixed parts of the problem. At the end, when it was down to just the IACV being bad it acted similar to a boost leak. I had heavy jerking under WOT and the motor stuttered at idle. I hope this helps someone else later down the road.

Last edited by Redefined; 08-25-2011 at 01:48 AM.
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Old 08-25-2011, 11:33 AM   #453
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeffwhite07 View Post
i got my 2.0 turbo wrx a few weeks ago i started off with putting on a brand new injen short ram intake and everything ran great later a week later i bought a perrin inlet turbo hose for it and got in on my car ran great for a few day then the p0171 ce light came on is this due to the inlet pipe? what could be my problem my wrx is a 04 and has less then 60k some one please help me!! oh and i have no loss in power and the code said sytem lean bank 1 help me please
It's because of your intake. The turbo inlet didn't help the cause either. You need to get your car tuned. If you can't get tuned then you can just take the intake off and put your stock one back on and the code should go away.
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Old 08-28-2011, 05:47 PM   #454
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Originally Posted by corzy666 View Post
It's because of your intake. The turbo inlet didn't help the cause either. You need to get your car tuned. If you can't get tuned then you can just take the intake off and put your stock one back on and the code should go away.

okay thanks for all the help i set up a time next thuresday to go get it tuned from bills dyno tune in tacoma ill post back and let you guys know how it goes
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Old 10-04-2011, 09:15 PM   #455
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sorry to dig this back up, but I got a p0171 code today and found this thread in a search. Aside from the cel, the only indication of something being wrong is a pretty rough idle, which could be any number of things I know. I suspect a possible bad 02 sensor, and even more so after reading through this thread.
This past saturday I had to remove my turbo to replace a cracked oil return line. upon removal, some coolant from the turbo spilled into the uppipe opening. I was a little concerned about this so I waited until the next morning before starting it again to give the coolant time to dry in there (about 20hrs later). But does this sopund like something that could cause 02 sensor failure? I mean im pretty sure the front 02 sensor in the uppipe probably got some coolant on it, but could that cause it to fail, thus causing the p0171 code?
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Old 11-27-2011, 12:41 PM   #456
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so my question is my car is running lean wasting to much gas were is the first thing i do?

Ian[/quote]
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Old 12-05-2011, 01:05 PM   #457
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Originally Posted by HPREX View Post
so my question is my car is running lean wasting to much gas were is the first thing i do?

Ian


not sure if serious

Lean doesn't mean your car is wasting gas, but quite the opposite- it means the air/fuel mixture doesn't contain ENOUGH fuel, or at least your ECU thinks that it doesn't contain enough fuel. If it were running RICH it would be wasting gas.

Running lean is far more dangerous than running rich. You can seriously jack up your engine running lean.

The first thing to do would be to read the first post in this thread and start troubleshooting from there. Start cheap- check for leaks, clean your MAF, etc. Or take the car to a mechanic.
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Old 12-05-2011, 05:44 PM   #458
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Wow. Thanks for the list.
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Old 12-21-2011, 12:21 AM   #459
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Haha wow, just got this CEL tonight and had no idea about how much of a PITA it can be for some people. Not sure what it is yet though, I honestly think it's just that I truly leaned out, since I am still on a e-tune semi-base map my tuner sent me. Plus I am on E85, and have never experienced this code before.

I got it right after a WOT pull in 3rd gear on the freeway. I wasn't paying attention to my aem uego, but I'm guessing I really did lean out, since I don't think I have any sort of leaks etc.
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Old 12-27-2011, 08:59 PM   #460
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Okay so I got PO171and my car is bone stock. the only thing I have done was change my clutch(which I had to pull out the hole motor and I put on a xs Blow off valve.) but what I did do was I cleaned my MAF sensor and drove clam, and the code didn't come on for a while (130 miles into it) my cel came on.every now and then on cold starts my car gets sluggish. Now every now and then at WOT my cel light starts flashing. Do you think these are linked together? If so, where should I start since my car is bone stock. Thanks guys I appreciate it.
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Old 12-27-2011, 10:13 PM   #461
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oZ Killasubaru Zo
Okay so I got PO171and my car is bone stock. the only thing I have done was change my clutch(which I had to pull out the hole motor and I put on a xs Blow off valve.) but what I did do was I cleaned my MAF sensor and drove clam, and the code didn't come on for a while (130 miles into it) my cel came on.every now and then on cold starts my car gets sluggish. Now every now and then at WOT my cel light starts flashing. Do you think these are linked together? If so, where should I start since my car is bone stock. Thanks guys I appreciate it.
Anybody???
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Old 03-08-2012, 12:20 PM   #462
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Bump: so I've trying to figure my p0171 out for a few days now. I'm not really good at car stuff I just don't wanna pay for something I can figure out. My question is how tight should the small hose be that comes off the T which comes off the BOV? Because mine is really lose. I can easily pull it off.
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Old 03-26-2012, 08:35 PM   #463
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First off, for parts possibly related to this issue I have:
K&N air intake
STi pink injectors

I bought the injectors used and likely installed them in 2004 or 2005 and I now have almost 140k miles no the car, I installed the K&N and was then tuned so my car has been fine with it.

I first got a P0171 maybe a few months ago, I read around and I put Heet in the gas tank and cleaned the MAF; P0171 was gone. Last Friday (March 23) I got the P0171 again, cleared it but had a little roughness driving; I didn't have this last time. Throttle would drop a little, very light losses of power. Same process: Heet and MAF cleaning.

I'm not even sure the Heet is doing anything but it couldn't hurt. This time after cleaning the MAF I pulled the battery and made sure to drain the power (brake pedal). When started it up it ran poorly so I parked it and went inside bummed. I went back out about 20 minutes later and it ran fine; drove it to work today and it was fine. Maybe the MAF was still a little wet on the first start. I've been using non-chlorinated Brakleen to clean it as I've seen that recommended here.

I'm about as convinced as I can get that this is a MAF problem considering that cleaning it seems to produce immediate results. It's the original MAF, 140,000 miles on it. Since I've had the K&N since 2007 and didn't have any problems until now, I don't think that the oiled air filters are too much of a problem. I've checked all vacuum lines and they seem tight. I'm think that the MAF is just getting worse over time so the effects are becoming amplified. I would also sometimes get a P0102 so I've got a couple codes that could be indicating the slow fall of my MAF sensor.

I've ordered a new MAF and I'll report back if the code returns any time soon which would likely mean the MAF wasn't causing it.

Update:
MAF did not resolve the issue. After resetting the ECU the issue returned after ~60 miles of driving. It feels like the engine is missing at times and then it threw the P0171. Even though the plugs aren't too old I'm going to check and replace them.

So March 31, 2012...
I replaced the plugs and fuel filter and the car has been fine since then; it's not April 17th. The new MAF is still on the car and will remain.

Last edited by djoye; 04-17-2012 at 12:50 PM.
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Old 03-26-2012, 08:37 PM   #464
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WRXmisfit View Post
Bump: so I've trying to figure my p0171 out for a few days now. I'm not really good at car stuff I just don't wanna pay for something I can figure out. My question is how tight should the small hose be that comes off the T which comes off the BOV? Because mine is really lose. I can easily pull it off.
I'm not sure those will be much of a contributor but you could get some small zip ties and snug them down on those lines; not too tight or the hose could bind and make a leak, just enough to keep it from being pulled off.
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Old 03-26-2012, 08:39 PM   #465
djoye
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oZ Killasubaru Zo View Post
Okay so I got PO171and my car is bone stock. the only thing I have done was change my clutch(which I had to pull out the hole motor and I put on a xs Blow off valve.) but what I did do was I cleaned my MAF sensor and drove clam, and the code didn't come on for a while (130 miles into it) my cel came on.every now and then on cold starts my car gets sluggish. Now every now and then at WOT my cel light starts flashing. Do you think these are linked together? If so, where should I start since my car is bone stock. Thanks guys I appreciate it.
Flashing CEL indicates a misfire.

If the car is stock have you changed the plugs in a while? Also, did you use an OEM equivalent clutch and flywheel? If the flywheel is a lightweight flywheel then it could cause a flashing check engine light.
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Old 04-19-2012, 12:13 PM   #466
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Wanted to let others know how I fixed this code for me. I fixed my IC to make sure it was leak free- still CEL
clamped or zip tied almost every hose- still CEL
Made sure all intake and exhaust were sealed- still CEL
changed front O2 sensor- FIXED CEL
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Old 05-25-2012, 12:36 AM   #467
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I've been chasing this gremlin for a looong time. New sensors, clamped all lines, boost pressure checks, new plugs, packs, exhaust gaskets, no vac leaks....friggin nightmare. Still comes on sporadically. Friends are telling me to take my rear o2 out of the stream further. Everything else has been fixed or replaced, still turns up here and there. Car runs and drives fine. What a miserable code to tackle. I'm also considerably modded. A lot of after market performance items. Ugh. I'll let the tuner handle it tomorrow.
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Old 05-25-2012, 09:21 AM   #468
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I've been chasing this for over 2 years (spent $$$$$); turned out that I had 2 bad MAF sensors. 3rd one completely fixed the issue.

Here is troubleshooting guide I put together:

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Old 05-26-2012, 01:15 PM   #469
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I found 2 pin holes in a crap weld on my right head collecter, GReddy UEL made on a Friday apparently, not impressed for how expensive they are, with the lack of workmanship.
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Old 05-31-2012, 12:39 PM   #470
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post for later
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Old 06-08-2012, 03:36 PM   #471
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Originally Posted by medamullet View Post
post for later
Great post, good effort


OK, for me then. Car (03 WRX) was mild stage 4 until Summer 08, then after bottom bearing failure and a new shortblock, it went back to bone stock, returned that way by a Subaru dealer - not a guarantee of a quality job but not some hack working out of their garage either.

Since then, only about 20K miles (yah really) and last December (64K) got the code CEL 0031 to replace the front O2 sensor. Replaced with a genuine Denso part. No more CEL.

Car has driven fine since return to stock (4 years).
Car has never ever gotten better than 24MPG on highway, maybe 20MPG around town, all weather conditions, stages 2-4 and back to stock, whether driven like a granny or driven like it was stolen.

I will try injector cleaner and MAF cleaner (I think I did that once upon a time in my modded days as a maintenance item). I may also be up for fuel filter replacement even though Im pretty sure that was also done at the time of the block swap.

at the idea of needing another O2 sensor though.

Last edited by Wagon Of Fury; 06-08-2012 at 03:43 PM.
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Old 06-08-2012, 07:35 PM   #472
Timmy_M2000
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wagon Of Fury

Great post, good effort

OK, for me then. Car (03 WRX) was mild stage 4 until Summer 08, then after bottom bearing failure and a new shortblock, it went back to bone stock, returned that way by a Subaru dealer - not a guarantee of a quality job but not some hack working out of their garage either.

Since then, only about 20K miles (yah really) and last December (64K) got the code CEL 0031 to replace the front O2 sensor. Replaced with a genuine Denso part. No more CEL.

Car has driven fine since return to stock (4 years).
Car has never ever gotten better than 24MPG on highway, maybe 20MPG around town, all weather conditions, stages 2-4 and back to stock, whether driven like a granny or driven like it was stolen.

I will try injector cleaner and MAF cleaner (I think I did that once upon a time in my modded days as a maintenance item). I may also be up for fuel filter replacement even though Im pretty sure that was also done at the time of the block swap.

at the idea of needing another O2 sensor though.
Honestly, I'm running a Bosch wideband AFR, despite a bunch of people swearing up and down that you can't use any aftermarket sensor but Denso, my AFR's are spot on and consistent, even running a A1 Cardone re-manufactured MAF, zero issues on my set-up. Everything works great. Tuned out awesome.

In the end, you don't have to pay a ton for a sensor. Mine was $125 from Amazon.com. 0 issues. Wound up finding pin-holes in my GReddy UEL header at a weld by the head collector, welded on a Friday after lunch I guess. Easy fix but it was just enough to piss my car off and throw off my numbers. Kept throwing the 0171, swapped to a 2011 STi manifold on my 2003 WRX sedan, no codes for the last 3k after a ton of work and a tune. Pushing over 315 at the wheels and 22psi no sweat. Pm me if you keep having issues, I'm intimately familiar with this GD car gremlin. Lol...

Also, some CEL/ troubleshooting info...

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=2335385

Last edited by Timmy_M2000; 06-08-2012 at 09:36 PM.
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Old 06-17-2012, 08:15 PM   #473
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I'm throwing this code and off the top I'm blaming the new turbo blanket and heatwrap for the downpipe (but the wrap ends well before the O2 sensor). I'm happy they're doing their jobs but ha c'mon. Mods include fp turbo w/ all supporting mods and the car was jr protuned at p&l and been running swell for about a year and a half. I only just got this code after wrapping everything up. At the same time, I wrapped the intercooler and k&n intake short pipe with heat reflective tape (I'm impressed with the heatsoak reduction, but I highly doubt the issue is here).
The combo also caused fuel cut and the overboost code to be thrown, but I understand that one since the turbo is damned hot and efficient now ha
My concern is that I don't have a wideband and I need to know how serious of a problem this could be. I've been watching the a/f on a AP and it only seems to run lean at idle when the car has been driven. The second I begin driving it's back to 14.7 (or richer obviously under harder accel). I don't plan on retuning the car until I do a couple more things so I want to know how bad this issue is - I've searched blanket related issues and depending on which forum opinions range widely. Thanks a lot!
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Old 06-17-2012, 08:18 PM   #474
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Forgot to mention, intake filter and maf sensor are cleaned on a regular basis every other oil change or for track days. I checked all hoses and almost overtightened everything, though I doubt it's a leak pre-throttle body because I'm able to maintain normal vacuum/boost
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Old 06-18-2012, 09:19 PM   #475
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turbocharged9589
Forgot to mention, intake filter and maf sensor are cleaned on a regular basis every other oil change or for track days. I checked all hoses and almost overtightened everything, though I doubt it's a leak pre-throttle body because I'm able to maintain normal vacuum/boost
Cleaning the MAF constantly is no good. You wear it out faster, there's sensitive components inside that can't be regularly exposed to cleaners and chemicals without causing performance degradation (its an electronic sensor after all). Plus if you're running an oiled filter on a hot air intake the chances of residue sucking into your intake go up if there's too much oil on the filter. Too much oil/filter gets hot, oil gets thinner, mixes with high flowing air and sucked into the intake with the incoming air, subsequently onto the maf. I'm surprised that "heat taping" the intake did much for heat soak, which is caused by ambient temp in the engine bay. Wrapping the turbo and exhaust reduced those temps, but in the end, its not until you have colder air circulating through the engine bay that you'll actually see the gains, if any, over a stock intake with a drop in, which is tried and true, plus I've never heard of wrapping exhaust causing a code. Odds are, you have either a boost leak (which needs to be done with a tester (easy to make) and an air compressor, best way to KNOW you have no boost leaks) , or an exhaust leak somewhere. I'd lean towards the maf first, do a swap with a buddy who has a known good working order maf, if code comes back, well, not the maf. Move on to the AFR in the car, same thing. Boost pressure check, then get under the car with it running (cold, so you can feel around flanges and mating surfaces with gaksets for leaks without getting burned right away, also try soap and water squirt bottle on couplers under the hood, even the exhaust while its cold and upon first start, move quick or the obvious will happen (burns aren't fun). Also if you have TGV deletes, check them with the boost leak tester/soapy water. Check the fuel rails and make sure your injectors are properly seated as well. These are all methods and issues I've come across on my vehicle and friends vehicles.

Last edited by Timmy_M2000; 06-18-2012 at 09:35 PM.
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