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Old 10-17-2014, 02:50 AM   #1
m1tal1k
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Default Going Rotella T6

Tomorrow I'll have owned my car for the last 3k miles. About to make a 600 mile trip so I figured id change my oil now while I'm in town tomorrow. Gonna have em drain my oil and add the Rotella T6 (5 quarts) with a new OEM filter. I drive a 2008 wrx hatchback on a stage 1 tune from Clark-Turner Tuning. I am running a COBB SF Intake w/ Airbox. After the new addition to oil since I've never driven a modded car I figured id ask the question.

Does the oil need to be circulated for so many miles before I drive around or run the car hard. If so this 600 mile trip will probably do it some good. If not oh well. I ask this cause I know if you build a motor you need to run the oil through so many times and not drive hard till blah blah miles. I just wanna make sure going Rotella T6 doesn't effect the engine in someway I may not know about. I have no idea what oil was used previously. I'm not having Subaru put the oil in before anyone says don't go to a dealer and have em put in non standard oils. Thank you for your knowledge.


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Old 10-17-2014, 04:34 AM   #2
Loyale93
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It's an oil change. Don't floor it when you first turn the engine on and you'll be fine.
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Old 10-17-2014, 07:56 AM   #3
Brent22
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Why 5 quarts (4.7L)? Off the top of my head, I thought they take 4.4L? Overfilling oil is bad.

Quote:
if you build a motor you need to run the oil through so many times and not drive hard till blah blah miles.
I'm not sure why you think this is relevant. This is just an engine break-in. Just like if you would buy a brand new car. It has nothing to do with the oil needing to break-in or you would have to break the oil in every change.
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Old 10-17-2014, 08:55 AM   #4
HinshawWRX
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Drain oil. Refill with whatever oil you want. Drive.

It's not rocket science.
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Old 10-17-2014, 09:43 AM   #5
m1tal1k
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Thanks guys


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Old 10-17-2014, 10:21 AM   #6
Ruzty1311
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Not with WHATEVER oil obviously. Change the oil and let the car warm up fully prior to driving off...done and done
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Old 10-17-2014, 10:32 AM   #7
Brent22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ruzty1311 View Post
Not with WHATEVER oil obviously. Change the oil and let the car warm up fully prior to driving off...done and done
Actually, he can use WHATEVER oil he wants. If he wants to use 25w60 oil he can, the engine might not be too happy though.
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Old 10-17-2014, 01:03 PM   #8
bluesubie
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m1tal1k View Post
Tomorrow I'll have owned my car for the last 3k miles. About to make a 600 mile trip so I figured id change my oil now while I'm in town tomorrow. Gonna have em drain my oil and add the Rotella T6 (5 quarts) with a new OEM filter. I drive a 2008 wrx hatchback on a stage 1 tune from Clark-Turner Tuning. I am running a COBB SF Intake w/ Airbox. After the new addition to oil since I've never driven a modded car I figured id ask the question.

Does the oil need to be circulated for so many miles before I drive around or run the car hard. If so this 600 mile trip will probably do it some good. If not oh well. I ask this cause I know if you build a motor you need to run the oil through so many times and not drive hard till blah blah miles. I just wanna make sure going Rotella T6 doesn't effect the engine in someway I may not know about. I have no idea what oil was used previously. I'm not having Subaru put the oil in before anyone says don't go to a dealer and have em put in non standard oils. Thank you for your knowledge.


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Good questions!

ZDDP takes some time and heat to activate, but I would only be concerned if you went from the dealer straight to the track to do a HPDE. Even then, there are other anti-wear additves that do not need heat to activate so hopefully those would provide enough protection before the ZDDP is activated.

And since RT6 is API certifed, it is required to pass ASTM D6922 to be miscible with other oils.

5.1 It is important that engine oils from different manufacturers be homogeneous and miscible with each other, because operators of automotive engines often do not have prior knowledge of the manufacturer of the oil that is currently used in their application, and engine failure can occur if oils are combined that do not stay homogeneous and function properly.

http://www.astm.org/Standards/D6922.htm


-Dennis
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Old 10-17-2014, 01:10 PM   #9
m1tal1k
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@Bluesubie

Thank you for your response.

Thank you everyone for whatever input you put into this thread.

@Brent22 - Cause you can't buy 4.4 quarts now can you.
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Old 10-17-2014, 02:53 PM   #10
dark hawk
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HinshawWRX View Post
Drain oil. Refill with whatever oil you want. Drive.

It's not rocket science.
I think Scotty would disagree
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Old 10-18-2014, 03:58 AM   #11
Fadetoblack909
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m1tal1k View Post
@Bluesubie

Thank you for your response.

Thank you everyone for whatever input you put into this thread.

@Brent22 - Cause you can't buy 4.4 quarts now can you.
No you can't buy 4.4 quarts but you can get close to it with the gallon and 1quart bottles
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Old 10-18-2014, 07:52 AM   #12
Loyale93
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m1tal1k View Post
Tomorrow I'll have owned my car for the last 3k miles. About to make a 600 mile trip so I figured id change my oil now while I'm in town tomorrow. Gonna have em drain my oil and add the Rotella T6 (5 quarts) with a new OEM filter.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brent22 View Post
Why 5 quarts (4.7L)? Off the top of my head, I thought they take 4.4L? Overfilling oil is bad.
Quote:
Originally Posted by m1tal1k View Post
@Bluesubie

Thank you for your response.

Thank you everyone for whatever input you put into this thread.

@Brent22 - Cause you can't buy 4.4 quarts now can you.
No, you can't buy 4.4qts. But you also shouldn't add 5 quarts. Overfilling is bad. That's what he was saying. You said you were going to add 5 quarts of oil. Don't do that.

Also, this isn't twitter. We don't "@" people here. If you want to talk to someone Mitalik, do it. Use the quote function or just act like a normal human being and use their name. Brent was right. Mitalik was wrong. See how easy that is?
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Old 10-18-2014, 10:03 AM   #13
Brent22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m1tal1k View Post
@Bluesubie

Thank you for your response.

Thank you everyone for whatever input you put into this thread.

@Brent22 - Cause you can't buy 4.4 quarts now can you.
First off, this isn't twitter. You don't need to do '@username', just quote them.

Second, why not act like a normal person and just put 4.4L out of 4.7L in the car?
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Old 10-18-2014, 01:12 PM   #14
TWilliams4411
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Good oil.

Last edited by TWilliams4411; 10-18-2014 at 01:18 PM. Reason: None
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Old 10-18-2014, 01:57 PM   #15
aerosaaber
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don't forget to send in for $5 rebate http://www.shell.com/rotella/promoti...promotion.html.
and remember you buy it by the gallon but a gallon is not enough for an oil change so you'll need to get 2.

Last time the rebate was on I bought 5 gallons and had enough oil for 4 oil changes. And that reminds me that this rebate is over soon, gotta get some oil. (limit 2 rebates per household, lucky I have a wife at home, an office and a father in law in town to send them too)
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Old 10-18-2014, 08:50 PM   #16
Daniel Dudley
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluesubie View Post
Good questions!

ZDDP takes some time and heat to activate, but I would only be concerned if you went from the dealer straight to the track to do a HPDE. Even then, there are other anti-wear additves that do not need heat to activate so hopefully those would provide enough protection before the ZDDP is activated.

And since RT6 is API certifed, it is required to pass ASTM D6922 to be miscible with other oils.

5.1 It is important that engine oils from different manufacturers be homogeneous and miscible with each other, because operators of automotive engines often do not have prior knowledge of the manufacturer of the oil that is currently used in their application, and engine failure can occur if oils are combined that do not stay homogeneous and function properly.

http://www.astm.org/Standards/D6922.htm


-Dennis

ZDDP gets burnished into cams and tappets under high pressure contact. It does nothing for bearings or journals under any circumstances. there simply isn't enough pressure, or a hard enough surface for it to burnish into.

It isn't a time thing, or a heat thing. it is a pressure thing, and the pressure has to be so high that it is virtually destroying The shear in the oil. That is when ZDDP starts working.
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Old 10-20-2014, 09:10 PM   #17
EvilHawkEye
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Getting ready to do my oil change I my Sti as well should I use a subaru filter ?


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Old 10-20-2014, 10:17 PM   #18
bluesubie
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Daniel Dudley View Post
ZDDP gets burnished into cams and tappets under high pressure contact. It does nothing for bearings or journals under any circumstances. there simply isn't enough pressure, or a hard enough surface for it to burnish into.

It isn't a time thing, or a heat thing. it is a pressure thing, and the pressure has to be so high that it is virtually destroying The shear in the oil. That is when ZDDP starts working.

Pressure AND heat.

Zinc needs heat and load for it to activate and then lubricate the surface. Some types of Zinc activate faster under less heat and less load than other types of Zinc. These “fast burn” Zinc additives provide better protection during engine break-in because they react faster and establish that protective Phosphate glass coating quickly during the critical break-in phase.

http://www.drivenracingoil.com/news/...-in-motor-oil/

Remember that heavier oils take more time to get up to temperature-a motor oil's additive package is heat activated, so running around with cold temp means both wearing out the engine and isn't allowing the motor oil to trap contaminates. If you can't get the oil to 210f after serious operation, you need to look into running 30WT oils to avoid unnecessary wear and sludge. Also note that thicker oils trap temperatures, so pay attention to your oil temp gauge.

http://www.redlineoil.com/news_article.aspx?id=291


The oil additive Zinc DialkylDithioPhosphate (ZDDP) works because it is a polar molecule, so it is attracted to ferrous metal surfaces. However, Zinc (ZDDP) is not a lubricant until heat and load are applied. ZDDP must react with heat and load to create the sacrificial film that allows ZDDP to protect flat- tappet camshafts and other highly loaded engine parts.


http://www.aaoil.co.uk/files/4413/4314/3752/Zinc_vs.pdf
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