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Old 01-05-2004, 12:07 PM   #1
TheMadScientist
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Default Has anyone tried using GM part# 1997152 boost control solenoid

Do NOT do this mod if you are using a reflash or Cobb AP

It will result in over boosting and boost spikes. Unless you have DeltaDash.

This part is the boost control soleniod for a GMC cyclone. Has anyone tried it? I might buy one to try as they are only $20. If it can flow more than our stock one then I might be able to remove the ABC for the Utec and still hit the higher boost #'s.
TMS
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Last edited by TheMadScientist; 07-16-2004 at 02:10 PM.
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Old 01-05-2004, 02:24 PM   #2
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You can up the size of the hoses leading to and from the bcs and achive the same thing. I have an ecutek tune but I don't see why it would be any different.
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Old 01-05-2004, 02:33 PM   #3
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Or simply reduce the restrictor hole diameter........

Mark.
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Old 01-11-2004, 01:21 PM   #4
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Well I bought one. When I first looked at it I thought it was a two port solenoid. After a closer look it is a three port solenoid with a small mod. I have not had a chance to play with it yet way to cold out, but this might be a cheap three port solenoid. They list for ~$20. The subaru one from the legacy is ~$190. I am not going to use this for direct boost control but I am going to use it to switch in a MBC under WOT only. Then there is no PTFB to worry about. Here is a pic after the mod. The mod is there is a piece of foam and a clip on one of the ports. A pair of side cutters took the clip right off.

TMS
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Old 01-11-2004, 01:21 PM   #5
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Pic
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Old 01-12-2004, 02:03 AM   #6
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I'minterested in the results, especially since my subaru boost solenoid likes to stop working with me

Any chance of you trying to use this as a substitute for the factory boost controller?
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Old 01-12-2004, 08:26 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally posted by thebusiness999
I'minterested in the results, especially since my subaru boost solenoid likes to stop working with me

Any chance of you trying to use this as a substitute for the factory boost controller?
That was going to be what I was going to use this for. But since it is a three port solenoid that was designed to be used under the hood of a car I am going to use it for my BOV and my dual boost control set up. If you want to try it the solenoid itonly cost ~$20. Go for it.
I just soldered and epoxied leads to the conector and am waiting for the epoxy to setup. I will be playing with it tonight.
TMS
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Old 01-12-2004, 10:10 AM   #8
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i'm wondering why you're not thinking of using the tried-and-true 3 port grainger solenoid? it's about the same cost.

ken
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Old 01-12-2004, 10:12 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally posted by TheMadScientist
I am not going to use this for direct boost control but I am going to use it to switch in a MBC under WOT only. Then there is no PTFB to worry about.
tms, if you're interesting in an electronic throttle switch i have a schemo for one on my website. it works perfectly.

ken

ps. i had a gander at your PNP work on that exhaust housing saturday... i am curious as to how the test results come out.
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Old 01-12-2004, 10:20 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally posted by ride5000
tms, if you're interesting in an electronic throttle switch i have a schemo for one on my website. it works perfectly.

ken

ps. i had a gander at your PNP work on that exhaust housing saturday... i am curious as to how the test results come out.
Thanks for the offer. I am going to use the Utec to control the solenoid.
Since the housing was just installed this saturday I am not expecting any results for at least a week. The results will be posted when testing is done.



Quote:
Originally posted by ride5000
i'm wondering why you're not thinking of using the tried-and-true 3 port grainger solenoid? it's about the same cost.

ken

Because I could not find one that had the required PSI rating. I don't know if this one does either. At least this one is for use under the hood of a car.

TMS
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Old 06-10-2004, 05:45 AM   #11
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Well I installed this on my Sti last night in place of the stock BCS.
The resistance of the GM solenoid is 24ohms and the resistance of the stock solenoid is 32ohms. I wired in a 10ohm 1watt resistor in one wire going to the GM solenoid as a current limiting precaution.
I think this would be a great mod for people running user tuneable EM. With the GM solenoid installed the way I have it you are directly controling the WG duty cycle, you are no longer using a bleed system for boost control. So I would think that you could remove the ABC and still run the boost you want. I don't have any restrictors in the boost control lines. I still get full boost infact I think the boost response between gears is much better.
If anyone is interested in more info let me know.

TMS
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Old 06-10-2004, 10:13 AM   #12
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tms, are you using a utec or other em to control bcs duty cycles?

ken
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Old 06-10-2004, 10:56 AM   #13
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No the stock ECU seems very happy right now. No CEL solid boost no over shoot. At first the boost was a bit lowwer than normal. But two runs at WOT and the ECU seem to have adapted very well.
I think with the Utec you should see much better spool because you shut off the signal going to the waste gate. Also there should be no need for the ABC.

TMS
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Old 06-10-2004, 12:34 PM   #14
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I am very interested. Can you email me the plans (maybe a diagram of how it would be used as a direct boost control). Also, where did you get the part? Email it here: cpr7@cornell.edu

- Chris
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Old 06-10-2004, 12:46 PM   #15
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Same here...please send any information my way as well.
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Old 06-10-2004, 01:03 PM   #16
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I'm gonna have to watch this thread...
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Old 06-10-2004, 01:17 PM   #17
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I too am very interested. I just ordered the solenoid from GMPartsDirect.com. TheMadSceintist, do you have insight as to the connector and where to find one so I can solder it to the Solenoid? I am assuming that this make this a "plug and play" type mod.

Please email or post more instructions.

--Kris

kristopher555@comcast.net
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Old 06-10-2004, 02:49 PM   #18
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ahh, i think i see what you've done...

instead of the stock system which uses the solenoid to remove the pressure signal from the direct line between compressor and wastegate actuator, you now have a system which uses the solenoid in series with this line. so where the old stock system would keep the solenoid close to prevent the boost from rising, the new system keeps the solenoid open to achieve the same result.

and the most amazing thing is that the ecu learned around the completely new boost response!

good stuff...

edit: i'll measure both my grainger solenoid and my FBC solenoid tonight for electrical parameters.. Rdc and L (inductance). if the replacement solenoid has appreciably more L we might have to add an extra "snubber" diode to prevent a voltage spike from wiping out the driver circuitry.
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Old 06-11-2004, 08:32 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally posted by ride5000
ahh, i think i see what you've done...

instead of the stock system which uses the solenoid to remove the pressure signal from the direct line between compressor and wastegate actuator, you now have a system which uses the solenoid in series with this line. so where the old stock system would keep the solenoid close to prevent the boost from rising, the new system keeps the solenoid open to achieve the same result.

and the most amazing thing is that the ecu learned around the completely new boost response!

good stuff...

edit: i'll measure both my grainger solenoid and my FBC solenoid tonight for electrical parameters.. Rdc and L (inductance). if the replacement solenoid has appreciably more L we might have to add an extra "snubber" diode to prevent a voltage spike from wiping out the driver circuitry.
You are corect in the way the solenoid is hooked up. I have had it on the car for two days now and there has been no problem.

The GM solenoid is a three port device. On one end there is a common port that has a metal fitting, run that one to the compressor cover nipple. On the other end of the solenoid there are two hose barbs, one is covered by some foam and a metal clip remove the foam and clip. With no power to the solenoid one of the two ports is conected to the common port that open one goes to the wastegate nipple. The port that is closed with no power goes back to the intake. For wiring I soldered wires to the pins in the conector of the solenoid and filled the conector with epoxy. The 10ohm 1 watt resistor goes in series with the soleoid.

If I draw a diagram can someone host it and post here?

TMS
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Old 06-11-2004, 10:08 AM   #20
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tms, send it my way. email attachment is fine.
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Old 06-11-2004, 12:55 PM   #21
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how many psi can the solonoid handle??

thanks.
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Old 06-12-2004, 10:54 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally posted by ride5000
tms, send it my way. email attachment is fine.
Email addy?

TMS
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Old 06-12-2004, 12:05 PM   #23
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i need visual

can we get some diagrams? pics?

thanks
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Old 06-13-2004, 01:33 AM   #24
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If you guys don't want to solder, you can find the connector that plugs directly into the solenoid if you search for part #12052641 on this website... http://www.powerandsignal.com/IDC/DisplayResults.aspx

I'm using this solenoid for something else entirely, but it does appear to work very well in this capacity.
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Old 06-13-2004, 09:37 AM   #25
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ride I just sent the quick diagram to you.
I know there will be more questions after you post it I will answer them as soon as I can.

DjRez4 you have used that connector all ready? Nice find.

TMS
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