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Old 02-01-2004, 02:09 AM   #1
The Modaholic
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Default HID trouble shooting help needed

I have two sets of 8000K Liteglow Xenon HID kits in the headlights and fogs of my 2004 WRX. I have a couple of problems.

1. I am blowing fog lamp fuses every few weeks.

2. One of the headlights doesn't come on sometimes. This has gotten worse recently and it doesn't come on greater than 80-90% of the time now. But once it is on it never flickers out, as if there was a loose connection or a short in the wire. It seems to me that it is more likely to come on when the engine bay area has warmed up a bit.

Do I need to upgrade the wiring for both sets of lights?
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Old 02-01-2004, 05:51 AM   #2
SubyWRXer
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i think ur wiring harness got burn.. it happend to me when i had stock headlights
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Old 02-01-2004, 07:15 AM   #3
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Are your ballasts directly grounded or are they connected to the factory switched grounds in the headlight connectors? If the latter that is likely your problem, there is too much voltage drop in the switched grounds for the HIDs to start reliably. Move the ballast negatives to chassis or battery ground and they should work better.
As for the fog light fuses, if you're using the fog light power to run the ballasts the startup current is probably marginal for the fuse rating so they may blow occasionally. If this is what's happening the fuses will blow when the lights are first turned on, if so you should be able to safely go up one size on the fuses. Alternately you can add relays to power the ballasts from the battery, using the fog circuit to switch them on and off. Direct ballast grounding here is a good idea also.
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Old 02-01-2004, 12:06 PM   #4
The Modaholic
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this information definitely helps, thanks mulder!
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Old 02-02-2004, 10:55 PM   #5
Jonny
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I have the same problem with my recently installed HID kit. I'm consistenly having problem with the passenger side headlight ever since I have the lights installed 3 weeks ago.

The headlight will turn on 1 in 5 tries. More luck while the car is running. The technician that installed the light for me explained that there is not sufficient grounding from the car's original harness. So, he suggested and installed a grounding kit last weekend expecting it to fix the problem. However, as it turns out, it kinda gotten worst. Now, couple of occasion both lights doesn't turn on at all.


So, any lighting guru out there can help me out?!?!?!

Thank you!!!!!
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Old 02-02-2004, 11:09 PM   #6
Mulder
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What do you mean by a grounding kit? If you're referring to one of the ground wire kits that are sold for about $100 and consist of a bunch of fancy wires that connect between the battery negative, engine and various chassis points, this will have no effect on the performance of your HIDs.
The problem lies, as I have explained above and in numerous posts over the past couple of years, with the factory switched ground headlight system. The switched grounds are barely adequate to power the stock lights and are not sufficient to supply the high startup current required by HID ballasts. The solution is to bypass the switched grounds completely and connect the negative side of the ballasts directly to ground. Wiring them this way should eliminate most if not all HID starting problems.
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Old 02-02-2004, 11:59 PM   #7
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Look in Scoobymods.com under WRX, UK300 light install. It details the switched ground wiring system in detail. For aftermarket fogs, do the same with a separate ground and direct to the battary.

I've got JDM HIDs with Hella FF1000 done this way and it works fine, but it's a lot of work to install those two systems. Make sure you make good connections, solid and secure grounds and fuse appropriatly.
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Old 02-03-2004, 01:01 AM   #8
Jonny
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Quote:
Originally posted by mulder
What do you mean by a grounding kit? If you're referring to one of the ground wire kits that are sold for about $100 and consist of a bunch of fancy wires that connect between the battery negative, engine and various chassis points, this will have no effect on the performance of your HIDs.
The problem lies, as I have explained above and in numerous posts over the past couple of years, with the factory switched ground headlight system. The switched grounds are barely adequate to power the stock lights and are not sufficient to supply the high startup current required by HID ballasts. The solution is to bypass the switched grounds completely and connect the negative side of the ballasts directly to ground. Wiring them this way should eliminate most if not all HID starting problems.
Mulder. Yup, that's the kind of kit I got installed, and you're exactly right, it didn't do anything to help the HIDs.


I'll take your suggestion and give that a try tomorrow and keep you posted on the result.

Thanks!
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Old 02-24-2004, 11:13 PM   #9
PaXie
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Did you disable the day time running lights, You have to do this when you install the HID kits. I have my 8000k HID kit and with the day time running lights they light up and flicker, once disabled they work GREAT and i have not had any problems. i have been using them for about a month now with a couple of 3 hour drives at night.
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Old 02-25-2004, 12:13 PM   #10
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Yes the DRL was disable since the very beginning. I finally found out the problem last weekend and got it fixed!!

There was no wiring harness issues as it turns out. We tested every connection point from battery to switch to ballast, the connection is running very good. As it turned out, it is the problem with the type of ballast I had.

The initial HID kit the I got installed are the Hella Gen IV system, OEM parts for Mercedes. Then my trusty technician tried replacing the ballast with another GEN IV kit, no improvements. Then he tried the OEM kit from Lexus IS300, , the HID turns on everytime!!! As it turns out, those Hella ballast has a significantly higher current draw than other brands, and the Subaru electrical can't handle that additional current draw.

Anyways, I'm one happy man now
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Old 03-02-2004, 12:36 AM   #11
4banginRex
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Kinda cross eyed from reading, so I don't know if anyone already typed this. BUT HID CONVERSIONS must change their stock fuses to 20, due to the sudden power draw of the ballast and bulbs. IF they still blow you have grounding issues.

Just my two cents.
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Old 03-20-2004, 10:27 AM   #12
Gruven
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Quick question, when referring to disabling the DRL's, do you just disconnect the DRL (dohickey) by the passenger strut tower?
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Old 03-20-2004, 10:33 AM   #13
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No, you must disconnect the main DRL control module inside the car next to the glovebox. Many threads in here on this, search is your friend
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Old 03-20-2004, 10:36 AM   #14
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Quote:
HID CONVERSIONS must change their stock fuses to 20, due to the sudden power draw of the ballast and bulbs.
This is not universally true, it depends on the particular ballasts being used. Some will draw enough on startup to blow the OEM 15A fuses, others will not. I don't recommend upping the fuses to 20A unless the 15A are not sufficient.
I've been running Philips ballasts for almost two years with the original 15A fuses.
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Old 03-22-2004, 10:27 AM   #15
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All the more reason to run straight off the battery and use relays and dedicated fuse. YOu'll also get better/brighter lighting.
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Old 03-22-2004, 11:50 AM   #16
The Modaholic
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I am still having problems with my two sets of Liteglow HID lights. Two of the ballasts appear to be defective. A plug has seperated on one, and the other does not work intermittantly--I have switched it from one side to the other and the problem continued. I had grounded both at the ballast, and had not upgraded the fuses, due to conflicting feedback--and also wouldn't I have a problem at both ballast if that was the issue?

I talked to a guy at Liteglow who told me to send the defective stuff back...now to find the stock headlight sockets and bulbs...anyone have any for the o4?

Whit
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Old 03-25-2004, 06:26 PM   #17
importhookup
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Quote:
Originally posted by Sir_Xenon
All the more reason to run straight off the battery and use relays and dedicated fuse. YOu'll also get better/brighter lighting.
Like Sir_Xenon said,
If your ballasts seem to be pulling a lot of current from the stock wiring, something you may want to consider is some separate relays that run straight to the battery. On our Brightstar kits, we have voltage protection that will shut down the ballast if voltage drops or exceeds a certain level; this may be the case with your Liteglow kits. Given the fact that you have two kits running in both your headlights and fogs, it causes a lot of draw on your entire electrical system, which will reduce the current to the ballasts substantially.
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