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Old 02-07-2004, 06:14 PM   #1
wes
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Last edited by wes; 02-07-2004 at 08:17 PM.
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Old 02-07-2004, 09:15 PM   #2
Amazake
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why?
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Old 02-10-2004, 01:15 PM   #3
YinUCSD
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yeah i came in here looking for a review specifically about sti replica strut bars.
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Old 02-10-2004, 01:25 PM   #4
WingNut
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not what i expected (deleted). i've had my replica bar for almost 2 years now with no problems.
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Old 02-10-2004, 01:29 PM   #5
YinUCSD
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is it any different from, say, a whiteline rear strut bar?
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Old 02-11-2004, 01:01 PM   #6
jjjheimer
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I've got a set of Front and Rear on order. I'll post a review after I get them installed.

Last edited by jjjheimer; 02-11-2004 at 03:48 PM.
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Old 02-11-2004, 01:02 PM   #7
Jduke
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I have both front and rear STi replicas... Only thing I can think of that would be considered bad is the rear bar is a very very tight fit! I have actually tried to take this bar off and cant seen to get the end to back out of the spaces they are in...? Has any one else had this problem, let me know. Other than that once in they seen to work well. I would not say they suck... especially when they only cost like $50 each. I guess you get what you pay for.
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Old 02-11-2004, 02:16 PM   #8
Psydotek
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I only got the rear STi replica on my 2003 WRX sedan. Good quality, just a pain to install. I had to bend/cut to widen the holes that lead to the trunk so that the brackets would fit right. Oh, i also had to widen the holes on the aluminum bar so everything would fit. Otherwise, it works like it should, espically for only $60.
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Old 02-11-2004, 06:19 PM   #9
wes
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I apologize for the deleted message. I wanted to delete the whole thread but thats not allowed. I was not very happy with the fit and the pain to install. You would have to modify the alarm horn bracket (I think?) that bolts on to the pass side strut area.
I dont know how you are supposed to tighten up the big main bolt on the drivers side, it was pressed up against the windsheild washer tubing and firewall.

I installed a few neuspeed strut bars on my previous VW's, which required drilling the shock tower and installing nutserts, and that seemed more straight forward than this thing.

I could have modified the bracket and possibly got everything tight but it sure was starting to be pain in the das pooper, so I decided to bail on it, and search for one with a better fit.

by the way I was trying to install on a '04 wagon

Its for sale along with a WIX oil filter for the 02-03 WRX for 55.00
shipped
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Old 02-11-2004, 11:04 PM   #10
Lightning Jack
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my replica had a fitting problem......it's hitting on my ac line but work..
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Old 02-16-2004, 04:47 PM   #11
surlysinglespeed
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Quote:
Originally posted by wes
I apologize for the deleted message. I wanted to delete the whole thread but thats not allowed. I was not very happy with the fit and the pain to install. You would have to modify the alarm horn bracket (I think?) that bolts on to the pass side strut area.
I dont know how you are supposed to tighten up the big main bolt on the drivers side, it was pressed up against the windsheild washer tubing and firewall.

I installed a few neuspeed strut bars on my previous VW's, which required drilling the shock tower and installing nutserts, and that seemed more straight forward than this thing.

I could have modified the bracket and possibly got everything tight but it sure was starting to be pain in the das pooper, so I decided to bail on it, and search for one with a better fit.

by the way I was trying to install on a '04 wagon

Its for sale along with a WIX oil filter for the 02-03 WRX for 55.00
shipped
If youd like to keep the bar and save some dollars I would be happy to tell you how to install it with little pain
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Old 02-16-2004, 10:19 PM   #12
JH225
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Quote:
Originally posted by wes
I apologize for the deleted message. I wanted to delete the whole thread but thats not allowed. I was not very happy with the fit and the pain to install. You would have to modify the alarm horn bracket (I think?) that bolts on to the pass side strut area.
I dont know how you are supposed to tighten up the big main bolt on the drivers side, it was pressed up against the windsheild washer tubing and firewall.

I installed a few neuspeed strut bars on my previous VW's, which required drilling the shock tower and installing nutserts, and that seemed more straight forward than this thing.

I could have modified the bracket and possibly got everything tight but it sure was starting to be pain in the das pooper, so I decided to bail on it, and search for one with a better fit.

by the way I was trying to install on a '04 wagon

Its for sale along with a WIX oil filter for the 02-03 WRX for 55.00
shipped

Uhhhh, if you worked on cars previously like you said, this install is a no brainer.

1. REMOVE the alarm horn from the large bracket and bolt the horn sans bracket right onto the Cruise Control bracket. Screws right on and is out of the way.

2. Remove the AC line bracket held into the firewall with 2 screws. Bend tubing gently down and back. Replace AC line bracket using ONLY the top hole in the bracket and screwed into the BOTTOM hole in the firewall.

3. Cut brake booster vacuum line end about 1" or so, and replace.

4. Remove the tower nuts, Take strut bar set one side in so it just gets all 3 studs. Go the the other side and PULL the bar until it goes over the studs. Tapp down both sides, screw on nuts, Finished.

What is the big deal? Why, because the bar fits VERY tight? Well, guess what? It's supposed to tie both strut towers together, why shouldn't it be tight?

And if you can't get the bar to fit while it's together, remove one of the end links, put in both end links, then put the bar back together.
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Old 02-17-2004, 12:02 AM   #13
jjjheimer
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Quote:
Originally posted by JH225
4. Remove the tower nuts, Take strut bar set one side in so it just gets all 3 studs. Go the the other side and PULL the bar until it goes over the studs. Tapp down both sides, screw on nuts, Finished.
Any chance of screwing up the alignment when tapping/pulling the bar onto the towers?
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Old 02-17-2004, 06:16 AM   #14
shoooter_j
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I managed to avoid this by putting on the driver's rear side on, bolting it down, then the pass rear side on (not secured yet). I then took the bar and secured it to the driver's, managed to snake it into the passenger's side, then finally torqued the passenger side mount

Somehow it all fit - I was considering this option if all else failed however

Quote:
Originally posted by Psydotek
I only got the rear STi replica on my 2003 WRX sedan. Good quality, just a pain to install. I had to bend/cut to widen the holes that lead to the trunk so that the brackets would fit right. Oh, i also had to widen the holes on the aluminum bar so everything would fit. Otherwise, it works like it should, espically for only $60.
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Old 02-17-2004, 02:07 PM   #15
Psydotek
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Quote:
Originally posted by shoooter_j
I managed to avoid this by putting on the driver's rear side on, bolting it down, then the pass rear side on (not secured yet). I then took the bar and secured it to the driver's, managed to snake it into the passenger's side, then finally torqued the passenger side mount

Somehow it all fit - I was considering this option if all else failed however
Lucky b@$$tard. The hardest part was actually overcoming the fear that goes with violently introducing a hammer, screwdriver, and metal snips to the frame of the car.
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Old 02-18-2004, 12:33 AM   #16
JH225
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Quote:
Originally posted by jjjheimer
Any chance of screwing up the alignment when tapping/pulling the bar onto the towers?
I don't believe so. You are only barely moving the towers towards each other. You see, once in place the bar fits fine, but since you have to get the end links over all 6 studs at the same time, it is a bit tricky.
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Old 02-18-2004, 10:00 PM   #17
wes
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Still for sale!
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Old 02-18-2004, 10:50 PM   #18
jjjheimer
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I finally received my replica strut tower bars today. I took some time this evening to install the rear bar.

First impressions
- The welding looks good, design is cheap (see pics)
- The rear bar is light, but one of the ends was bent slightly in shipping - fixed with a hammer
- The front bar does not have a lock nut on the bar to mount hinge screw (the rear did)

Rear Bar Installation - Followed instructions found at Oakos ->
Installation Instructions at Oakos

Initially the mounts didn't fit very well because they made contact with the side of the opening into the trunk. I took some pliers and bent a small amount of body metal away to allow for a better mount fit. I was concerned that if I did nothing about the contact it would rub and be noisy (- so far this isn't the case and there is some minor contact). I then checked the bar fit and discovered that there was no way it would fit with the strut bolts snug. So I loosened both sides in order to install the bar. The bar width is not adjustable. After some struggling I got the joint bolts into the bar. I then torqued the strut bolts to spec and reinstalled everything.

Road Test
There is a small but discernible difference in the rear of the car. It feels tighter when accelerating, (less twisting?). Its snowy and icy here so high g-force cornering is out of the question until the spring. I've got my snow winter tires on so handling changes are difficult to detect and may be covering a more pronounced change. Despite the tight fit and contact with the body it hasn't introduced any rubbing/grinding noises. I'll add to this review in the spring.

I apologize for the pic quality I was in a hurry.

Blurry pic of bar and mount installed


Close up


Front and Rear
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Old 11-23-2005, 05:41 AM   #19
hkwan
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Any update on how this works over the spring/summer?
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Old 11-23-2005, 03:58 PM   #20
IIdiceII
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I bought used front and rear strut bars for like 50 total...Great deal. These are just as good as some of the name brand ones with just some slight fitment issues. I would def buy again.
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Old 11-25-2005, 05:32 AM   #21
surfansnow
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For All Of You Having Trouble With The Rear Fitment, Put The Side Your Having Trouble With Up On The Jack, And It Slips Right On, No Problem At All.
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Old 11-25-2005, 06:50 AM   #22
taerron
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I had no issues with the rear one, but I had all types of problems with the front one. It actually was rubbing my hood and left a mark on the hood and the bar too. POS!
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Old 11-25-2005, 10:01 AM   #23
Paul
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i had the front and did not have to cut or drill anything. i also got mine about a year ago for like 20 bux

Last edited by Paul; 11-25-2005 at 01:03 PM.
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Old 11-25-2005, 12:26 PM   #24
jjjheimer
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There is a discernible improvement in stiffness - for the money you can't really go wrong.
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Old 11-26-2005, 07:40 PM   #25
theicewall
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A couple of things that I learned.
1) I have an STi IC and that was hitting my AC line too because it sits slightly furhter back than on the STi with the WRX brackets. Take a rubber mallet and gently tap the AC line (I SAID GENTLY and RUBBER) until it is back against the firewall and out of the way.

2) Jack your car up off the ground, both sides, and you will be able to line the three bolts up with the holes on the bar in seconds. It takes a little practice but I can get the front bar on and off in 15 seconds once the bolts are undone and the car is in the air. I also used a mallet to shape the pink part of the bracket to the contour of the strut tower and that works better now too.

Any questions or confusion PM me and I can try and explain better. I honeslty didnt notice any performance gain with the front, and my rear one is sitting at home, but I've done springs so I'm used to taking the rear seat and seatblet out from that. Should be a snap. If you want a pain in the arse, install an uppipe or a new turbo in terms of bolt ons that are PITAs.
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