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Old 07-24-2010, 08:27 PM   #251
chrismartin
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For the "How often" question, the maintenance schedule link is broken. New link would probably be: https://www.subaru.com/my-subaru/mai...edule2009.html

Or a link and description on how to sign up for the "My Subaru" thing on their site to view the proper schedule.
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Last edited by chrismartin; 07-24-2010 at 08:37 PM.
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Old 07-25-2010, 02:30 AM   #252
Evan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sstaurus View Post
So Unabomber's FAQ says check the oil when warm, is there a reason for this on a boxer engine? Most other sources I've read say check oil when cold. Just want to be clear on this. Does it take longer or shorter time for the oil to drain down to the pan on a boxer than a normal engine?
I don't see why Unabomber said to check while warm. You should consult your manual. My 2005 Legacy GT manual says to wait a few minutes for the oil to drain if you're checking when the engine is warm. It also says that the reading could be high due to the thermal expansion of the oil if warm. It seems to me that the reliable and consistant method would be to check while cold. Perhaps Unabomber will provide some detail on his reasoning.
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Old 07-25-2010, 11:14 AM   #253
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mtbiker278 View Post
So the oil Guru's are updating their specs again with GF-5 rated oils.

Supposedly the new specs will help a miriad of aspects including sludge control, turbocharger protection, fuel economy (minimal), E85 rust protection, and a whole bunch of other stuff. So far I've only been able to find one oil that meets GF-5 specs and that's Penzoil platinum or ultra synthetics.

What do other people think of thi? I'm hoping it'll help with the dreaded clogged oil screen in the turbo oil feed line.

http://http://www.gf-5.com/the_story/performance/
Note how there is no requirement for an improvement in wear protection.

Fixed link:
http://www.gf-5.com/the_story/performance/

-Dennis

Last edited by bluesubie; 07-25-2010 at 04:12 PM.
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Old 07-25-2010, 12:20 PM   #254
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Evan View Post
I don't see why Unabomber said to check while warm. You should consult your manual. My 2005 Legacy GT manual says to wait a few minutes for the oil to drain if you're checking when the engine is warm. It also says that the reading could be high due to the thermal expansion of the oil if warm. It seems to me that the reliable and consistant method would be to check while cold. Perhaps Unabomber will provide some detail on his reasoning.
I would check it warm after about 10 minutes. Thermal expansion in my opinion isn't going to play a huge part in a small car engine. The oil coming down out of the motor, and oil lines above the oil sump, will cause it to go up. Also small bubbles of air trapped in the oil will surface, reducing its overall volume by a small amount. If its got oil between low and full, leave it alone. Some folks get way to involved with this stuff. My experience checking oil is pretty decent, seeing as I maintain GE129 motors, and pull oil samples daily and have them analyzed everyday. Run the motor down the track, stop shut it off, check the oil...Drive home from the store, park, wait 10 mins and check it. Your results will vary, and it's the same oil, in the same engine. Just felt like giving my .02 today.
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Old 07-25-2010, 12:31 PM   #255
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People are getting way too critical with this oil checking. Just make sure the engine hasn't been running for a minute or so and then check it. Being a little above or below the top dot isn't going to cause any problems, its just a rough location. Its better to be somewhere in the middle of the two dots than 1/2" over the top one for example. They just don't want you below the bottom dot or too far above the top one. You aren't going t damage anything being 1/16" above the top dot because once the engine starts the rotating assembly won't be slapping the oil.
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Old 08-02-2010, 12:56 AM   #256
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I've been using the manual-recommended 5w30 in my 95 EJ18, but due to the high amount of highway driving I do (~90%...getting over 300 miles to a tank) I've been considering switching to 5w40. My thinking is that this will sit better at the higher temps and RPMs I'm running my engine at. Is this a good plan, or will it make no difference? Thanks.

-steve
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Old 09-13-2010, 05:50 AM   #257
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after reading all 11 pages of this thread so far and unabom's 1st page and the pros and cons ive come into conclusion...
my dd is a 06wrx and yes i do get blowby using amsoil 5w30 and yes i drive about 60miles a day going and coming from school on highway mon-fri and with the results ive seen from the 5w40 oil (rts,tdt), i think i am going to start using 5w40 instead of 5w30 b/c i hate to see oil in my inlets/outlets/tmic/throtlbody..ect.when i tear it down and also im thinking about investing into getting a GS AOS but,(will this be throwing back "sludge?" into my motor or correct me if im wrong) thank you guys the good information! lunch is on me haha
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Old 10-11-2010, 06:00 PM   #258
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So exactly what oil filter should I be using in a 2011 WRX, since the OEM ones are now garbage? Having trouble finding a filter with the required bypass PSI ratings.
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Old 10-11-2010, 06:02 PM   #259
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i <3 purolator
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Old 10-11-2010, 07:36 PM   #260
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Quote:
Originally Posted by arf80 View Post
So exactly what oil filter should I be using in a 2011 WRX, since the OEM ones are now garbage? Having trouble finding a filter with the required bypass PSI ratings.
use the oem one....just change it every 3500 miles
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Old 10-11-2010, 07:47 PM   #261
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Quote:
Originally Posted by arf80 View Post
So exactly what oil filter should I be using in a 2011 WRX, since the OEM ones are now garbage? Having trouble finding a filter with the required bypass PSI ratings.
The only OEM bypass pressure speced filter is PL14460 which has no ADBV and is a bit larger in diameter than the filters meant for the 2.5L turbo engines and therefore would be very close to the exhaust manifold heat shield. The PL14612 is the new Purolator PureOne for Subarus, and it has a 14-18psi bypass valve....sadly that is about as close as you get to the 23psi OEM.

Given how low the SOA mandated OCIs are (3750 miles), you could put a sock in a baked bean can and screw it onto your engine and get adequate filtration for a 3750 mile OCI.
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Old 10-11-2010, 08:52 PM   #262
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Ok, sounds like I'm better off running the OEM filter and hoping it doesn't disintegrate vs running the Purolator and having the car overwhelm the bypass filter on a cold morning.
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Old 10-11-2010, 09:01 PM   #263
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Quote:
Originally Posted by arf80 View Post
Ok, sounds like I'm better off running the OEM filter and hoping it doesn't disintegrate vs running the Purolator and having the car overwhelm the bypass filter on a cold morning.
Come on, give Honeywell a break. I've taken out my 3k mile oil filters (each of which has 3-6 autocrosses on it), cut them open and they are pristine and the bypass valve is still reading 20+ psi with no tearing of pleats or endcaps. Like I said, the OEM filters are more than is necessary for 3750 OCIs.

Last edited by 09rexwagon; 10-11-2010 at 09:36 PM.
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Old 10-11-2010, 09:34 PM   #264
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uncle Scotty View Post
use the oem one....just change it every 3500 miles
I tried tellin' 'em Scotty...
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Old 10-11-2010, 10:17 PM   #265
arf80
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I wasn't being sarcastic, thanks for the info guys.
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Old 10-11-2010, 11:20 PM   #266
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Quote:
Originally Posted by arf80 View Post
I wasn't being sarcastic, thanks for the info guys.
Uh, yeah. nasioc is full of posts about exploding OEM Honeywell filters.

-Dennis
p.s. - I was being sarcastic.
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Old 10-12-2010, 05:09 PM   #267
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Quote:
Originally Posted by arf80 View Post
I wasn't being sarcastic, thanks for the info guys.
d000000000000000d


the ONLY reason that I'm not using a blue subaru filter on my car right now is that I got the one that is on the car NOW for free.....
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Old 10-13-2010, 12:34 AM   #268
Stick8373
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A couple of Noob questions ...

I've been using OEM blue filters on my 08 Spec B for two years and haven't had issues (5W-30 Mobile 1) and I do my own oil changes and services that I'm able to do.

I just bought a 2011 STI and have done a "spirited" 400 mile break in so far and wanted to do an oil change in case there was metal in the oil floating around (like in my CBR600 at 100 miles).

1. The STI has the black filter made in Japan; is that different then the blue Canadian filter? (I'm thinking no, but thought I would ask).

2. Do the new Soobies still come from the factory with conventional oil? Since this opening in 2004 some companies are sending new cars with synthetic oil and the motors are broken in at the factory and I'm wondering if Subaru is one of them.

3. I've heard you can use the 3.6L filter on a 2.5 turbo motor to get a little better oil life/filter since it's deeper and has more surface area. Any truth to that? (haven't read all 11 pages so I apologize if it's in here already.)(read all 11 pages now - but still don't know the 3.6 SUBARU filter might filter better?? doubt it though - just curious)

4. What's the scoop with the pink STI filter? Is it really worth ~$45 for normal driving (and by normal I mean normal Soobie driving :> ) I'm sure it has it's benefits for race days and track days.

Thanks for the great thread! Always appreciate a place to ask anal questions

Nice .... read all 11 pages. head hurts!

So the black filter is the Roki and sounds like the blue is better ... cool - disregard. I think I'm going to get away from the Mobile 1 though and switch to Rotella or TDT.

Some great info! Thanks for all the input over the last 6 years

Last edited by Stick8373; 10-13-2010 at 02:20 AM.
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Old 10-13-2010, 11:44 AM   #269
mtbiker278
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The pressure rating on the oil filter is the pressure drop across the filter. Basically, if the filter clogs and you're getting 50psi on the feed side of the filter and 20psi on the oulet the bypass valve will open. I would venture to guess that the lower pressure rating of the Purolator filter is because of the 99.9% nomial @ 1 micron filtration rating. The finer the filtration, the sharper the pressure spike is when the filter is clogged.

Without knowing what the pressure drop is across the filter at maximum oil flow using clean oil we can't really say if 18psi or 23 psi is better.
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Old 10-14-2010, 05:45 PM   #270
cky211
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on WRX with over 100,000 miles is it necessary to change oil weight?
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Old 10-15-2010, 07:39 AM   #271
bluesubie
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cky211
on WRX with over 100,000 miles is it necessary to change oil weight?
Not necessarily, if you're not having any issues.

Although, I would favor a High Mileage oil. They have seal swellers to help prevent leaks, they usually have more anti-wear additives, and their viscosity is thicker (actual viscosity, not the "weight" or grade on the bottle).

-Dennis
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Old 10-18-2010, 02:16 PM   #272
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I've been trying to find a definitive answer for the Synth v. conventional for a little while, too...

I have yet to see anyplace in the OM where it states Synth is REQUIRED...Here is a screen scrape of the "Oil Change" section from the 2011 OM:

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Old 10-18-2010, 02:20 PM   #273
mtbiker278
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My understanding is it's not required to use synthetic. However, if you do use conventional you have to make sure the oil meet all the other specifications required by Subaru. GF-4, SM, 5w30 etc.
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Old 10-18-2010, 02:50 PM   #274
Unabomber
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Will update the main post sometime, but here is the REAL deal:

From the horse's mouth:

Dear Ron:

Thank you for contacting Subaru of America, Inc. and for your inquiry.

First, please keep in mind that Our Technical Services Department advised that
if you do decide to use synthetic oil, that you always use it because your
engine will become accustomed to it. The same goes if you decide to use
'regular' oil.

As of Summer 2010, Subaru of America Inc. is now offering Subaru Synthetic 5W-30
Motor Oil.

This oil offers increased performance to your customers who want added
protection for their
vehicle.

Subaru Synthetic 5W-30 Motor offers:

 Superior protection against oil breakdown for a cleaner running engine and
long engine
life
 Increased protection against varnishing and deposits
 Superior lubrication reduces engine wear across the operating temperature
range and
optimizes fuel economy
 Reduces oil loss due to evaporation and burn off
 Recommended for (2010 and prior) Turbo-charged engines but is required for all 2011 Turbo charged engine.
 This oil is also excellent for all non-turbo vehicles with the exception of
the new 2011 Forester. The new Forester engine requires Genuine Subaru 0W-20 Synthetic Oil,
which will be available through Subaru in late August 2010.
(Always refer to the owner’s manual for proper oil recommendation)

The 5W-30 Synthetic Motor Oil is currently being offered in quart and gallon
bottles.
Quart Bottle (Part Number: SOA868V9280) 12-bottles per case
Gallon Bottle (Part Number: SOA868V9285) 6-bottles per case

Engine Oil Guidelines: - only use engine oil that meets or exceeds the API
classification designated in the Owner's Manual for the vehicle - only use
engine oil that meets the VISCOSITY requirements for the ambient temperatures
under which the vehicle will be operated as outlined in the Owner's Manual - THE
ENGINE OIL MUST BE CHANGED AT THE INTERVALS SPECIFIED IN THE WARRANTY AND
MAINTENANCE BOOKLET FOR THE VEHICLE. SOME SYNTHETIC OIL REFINERS RECOMMEND
EXTENDED OIL CHANGE INTERVALS. SUBARU DOES NOT RECOMMEND ANY DEVIATION FROM THE
SPECIFIED INTERVALS IN THE OWNER'S MANUAL.

Per 2010 and older Warranty and Maintenance Booklets page 29 or 42, depending on
the publish date of the booklet, you will see our recommended schedule of
maintenance where we recommend changing your oil every 3,750 miles for turbo
vehicles or vehicles operated under severe driving conditions. Otherwise we
suggest changing your engine oil and filter every 7,500 miles. Changing your oil
more frequently will NOT harm your vehicle and should actually help it. But, it
is not necessary to change it so frequently. Subaru of America, Inc. recommends
that you at least adhere to our recommendations for servicing your Subaru!

Thank you for the opportunity to be of assistance. If you need any more
information, please feel free to contact us again.

Best wishes,
Kerry Ann Miller
Subaru of America, Inc.
Customer/Dealer Services





[THREAD ID:1-IDFYOC]



-----Original Message-----

From: XXXXXXXX@cox.net
Sent: 10/14/2010 11:25:47 AM
To: CustDlrServices@subaru.com
Subject: (SR #:1-1110970955) Product Information

Would like to know if any Subaru models, regardless of model year, are REQUIRED
to use synthetic oil. Not recommended...but REQUIRED as in warranty coverage
can/will be denied if one does not use synthetic oil.

KeepMeUpdated: { }
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Old 10-18-2010, 03:08 PM   #275
Unabomber
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I did send the image cutter311 posted above and sent it to SOA for further clarification.
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