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Old 06-04-2004, 01:39 PM   #26
Unabomber
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STiMULi: Thanks for the info, I added it above.
Maicca: The links still work for me! Only motor oil is discussed here, you will have to search for the other levels.
STiMULi: Factory fill from Subaru for a new vehicle is regular Valvoline oil with zero additives. I suspect that other manufacturers have "break in oil" otherwise the "break in oil" talk wouldn't be around these forums.
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Old 06-04-2004, 07:48 PM   #27
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Thanks very much for your great FAQs!
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Old 06-07-2004, 02:14 PM   #28
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Great information - thanks.

Now a quick question: in reading all of those oil reviews, they usually recommend an oil flush with a low viscosity oil to purge the system before switching to synthetic. On an older engine, if I was NOT switching to synthetic, would there be any benefit to a purge? That is, would a purge be beneficial in an all mineral oil system?

Offhand, I'm thinking there would be some marginal detergent action to the engine, but whether or not it would be worth the extra time is my question. Thanks!
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Old 06-09-2004, 12:17 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally posted by Unabomber

Maicca: The links still work for me!
Unabomber... thanks for the FAQ... however, I also am having trouble bringing up the Impreza Oil Change instructions from Subymods... I even went in there and did a search that came up dry. Can you help?
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Old 06-10-2004, 01:18 AM   #30
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Scoobymods is a pay perview site that is currently looking for funding.
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Old 06-16-2004, 09:14 PM   #31
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Is it better to change the oil at 1000 miles after break-in or just wait until 3000 miles the first time?
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Old 06-17-2004, 06:12 PM   #32
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Unhappy What happens if you switch from Synthetic, back?

Hey... I need some advice. I just took my car to a new shop and had the oil changed. I asked when I made the appt that they put Synthetic oil in, as that's what I've been running.

When I picked up the car, I was shocked that he only charged me $20.95 for the oil change. I asked him if he remembered to put the synthetic in, and he said he had. He asked why I asked and I said because it was so cheap... and he just replied, he's just less expensive than the dealership...

The last time I had the oil changed at the dealership, it cost me $35, as the Mobil One cost $6.07/qt.

What do you think? Could he have forgotten and put regular oil in my car? If so, what would that do? How would I know? Is there some way to tell? Would it look different on the dipstick?

Thanks in advance,
Lisa
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Old 06-24-2004, 09:26 PM   #33
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krk206s, do what you feel like, it's your car and this post gives you the "best" advice.

LisaPhish, you got duped. There is no such thing as a $21 synthetic oil change. ~$4/qt is the cheapest you will find synthetic @ ~5 qts = ~$20 alone. Not gonna happen in the real world.
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Old 07-05-2004, 12:56 PM   #34
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Hey, another thing...Can you discuss about Tranny/Rear Diff changes too? I use Redline and it is awesome, have no idea when best to change it though...haven't got that far (8k miles).
Any fluids would be awesome...and maybe mention for regular drive cars and ones that Auto-X/qtr mile a lot.

Also, I talked to a Subaru dealership and I was told that using synthetic too early in life of car can sometimes cause a Cam seal leak (my friend got one on number 4 when switched at 10k). I am not so sure that this is true cuz mine seaps some at the same spot at 8k on regular oil...anyone else have a seapage problem? Not bad, just slight on mine.


Steve

And you are definately right Unabomber, cheapest GOOD synthetic I have found runs 5-6 bux a qt....Also, becareful if you don't go to Subaru for STi oil change....most places that are 15 min oil change places will put the WRONG oil filter on ur car (non-turbo filter)...but if you want to save cash....get filter at Subaru, take to oil change place (if you are lazy too)....I just change mine myself.
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Old 07-06-2004, 01:26 AM   #35
jhuang76
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Overall, this is a great FAQ. I've got just a few more points to add.

1) There is a lot of information on the basestock used (Group I-V / mineral based/synthetic based), but one must not forget the importance of the additive package! Even a well synthesized PAO will oxidize over time, although a cheap Group I will oxidize more severly and rapidly. Plus, blowby that gets in the crankcase will deposit all sorts of nasty chemicals into the oil. Therefore, you will need antioxidants to neutralize all the free radicals and peroxides (formed from the oxidized baseoil, from the fuel, partially burnt hydrocarbons ... etc). You will need detergents to neutralize any acids (nice sulfuric acid from the combustion chamber, carboxylic acid from oxidized oil/fuel, ... etc), and prevent formation of varnish/lacquer and sludge. Dispersants help keep whatever oil insoluable chemicals that exists in the oil from agglomerating (such as sludge and soot). Anti-wear additives help coat the metal surfaces to provide protection and reduced friction in metal-metal contact areas (also known as mixed and boundary lubrication where bulk lubricants are not sufficient to provide complete separation). You've got anti-rust/anti-corrosion additives to protect yellow metals (copper based) and lead (though most new bearings no longer contain lead). You also need anti-foaming agents. Also, since the base oil's viscosity changes too much w/ temperature (even for Group IV and V), many times you have to add viscosity modifiers to increase the oils viscosity, especially at higher temperatures.
This is all I can think of right now. Things will get very complex when you consider how all the additives interact. To sum it up, formulating an oil is a job of "optimized compromise" rather than making an "absolute best".

Basically, what this means is that a great oil is not just selecting a great basestock, but also adding in the right mixture of additives to balance protection, fuel economy (reduced frictional losses), and drain interval. There are compromises that will occur.

Also, I will add that there are a lot of high mileage oils out there in the market place today. I don't know what each of them have that makes them "high mileage", but there is at least one company that has done their own testing and development to develop an additive that specifcally helps to "swell" fluoroelastomers (eg. modern seals). Seals will eventually with time "dry up" as its material leaches out into the oil (esters/diesters are notorious for promoting this), so additives in the oil that will help replenish the seal will help the seal last longer. Therefore, oils that have such additives are good for older cars.
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Old 07-11-2004, 12:39 AM   #36
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nice!
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Old 11-07-2004, 01:46 PM   #37
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hi, i want to know what oil type to use for my scooby, regarding viscosity and so. Im planning on buying Motul synthetic, since they use tha one on the wrc impreza. And also where can i buy oil and oil filters for less money.
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Old 11-07-2004, 02:49 PM   #38
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Buying Motul because they use it in WRC is dumb. Their car is 5000% different than yours. Aside from that, they sponser the WRC car, so they use their oil because it's free. 5W30 is what the manual recommends, use it. I can't tell you what the cheapest place for oil and filter is without knowing what you are using of either. Aside from that, www.froogle.com is your friend.
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Old 11-07-2004, 05:04 PM   #39
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Motul is good stuff. If you arent going to extend your drains I recommend the 300v (if youre not scared of non API-certified oils, which you shouldnt be), it offers the most protection. Other than that make sure you get one of their ester based oils. Since you are in PR I would use 10w30 or 5w40.
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Old 12-07-2004, 03:04 AM   #40
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I use oem purolater filters, and Mobil 1 5-W30 dino oil on all 3 of my Impreza's and my oldest impreza has 235,000 miles on it (ej18). I am still researching before I use synthetic on my WRX, also holidays=low cash flow.

I tried synthetic in my oldest impreza, and lead to leaks (about 3 oil changes).
Funny!
Same weight, I went back to dino oil and leaks went a way, though it was slowly.

I've researched quite a bit. Look at my join date. I have Impreza L, OBS, and WRX. I can somewhat understand synthetic. But since I just got the WRX, I havn't studied the turbo forums until I got. Though I did touch base with it, I never thought I would be interested in synthetic, but maybe. That is for the WRX, not the OBS or L.

...max
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Old 12-07-2004, 03:19 AM   #41
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Ron,

Have you done any research on Torco oil?? www.torcousa.com
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Old 12-16-2004, 05:56 PM   #42
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No. I used to be into oil research hot and heavy when I got my car. I researched, questioned, PM'd, emailed, and generally drove everyone on bobistheoilguy.com's forums nuts plus many manufacturers. I started using Mobil 1 Delvac as I thought it was the "best". Since then, my opinion has mellowed a bunch. I use Mobil1 5W30 and change every 5000 miles. Mobil1 because it's cheap, universally accepted as a "good" synthetic, and you can get it everywhere. I chose a synthetic because it's "better" and 5k change interval not because I like to change it sooner than the SOA recommended 7.5k, but because it's easier to remember to swap out at 30, 35, 40, etc. If you are using this oil, from what little I did read, it's probably fine. For the best advice, research it on the bobistheoilguy forums as those guys have probably have more info about it.
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Old 12-16-2004, 10:04 PM   #43
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thank you sir.
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Old 04-05-2005, 07:12 PM   #44
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I remember sitting on a plane once next to a recently retired oil chemist, and as a mechanically inclined racer type, popped the ubiquitous "oil question."

Apparently the long haul diesel oils are almost the same formulation as the motorcycle industry's high end oils. They have no frictioin modifiers (unwanted in a bike motor because of the wet clutch) and they have high zinc content (which apparently provides "squish out" protection- i.e. between gears, etc). As such, I have been running Delvac 1 in my roadrace and my motocross bike ever since with great results, and save quite a bit over the $7-$8 a quart motorcycle oils (considering how often those machines get it changed).

Now, as cool as the STi is, I'm not sure I lump its motor into the "high end, exotic" classification. E46 BMW M3s, any Porsche, Ferrari, etc. have extremely costly motors and internal parts. To the best of my knowledge (and please correct me if I"m wrong), the STi has a standard 2.5 liter flat four motor with lower compression and a turbo on it. So far on mine, I have been using plain old Mobil 1 5w30 and I change it every 4k or so. In my opinion, until you take apart your block, spending alot of money in the process, and build it "the right way (forged internals, etc.) I wouldnt use anything more exotic than a commonly available synthetic (i.e. Mobil 1). That said, I would definitly use a synthetic as even with a water cooled turbo, any motor, turbocharged or not, that is making 300hp from 2.5 liters is working fairly hard.

Just my $.02.
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Old 07-13-2005, 03:20 PM   #45
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Any thoughts on the "higher milage" oils? Is it worth the extra money? Is it preferable over good quality dinos or synthetics?
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Old 07-13-2005, 06:13 PM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Impreza911
Any thoughts on the "higher milage" oils? Is it worth the extra money? Is it preferable over good quality dinos or synthetics?
They typically will be a little thicker for their weight range, and have more additives, so they do offer some advantages IMO. They arent always api certified, which is why they are able to boost the adds, which is a good thing, again IMO.
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Old 07-14-2005, 10:21 AM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Impreza911
Any thoughts on the "higher milage" oils? Is it worth the extra money? Is it preferable over good quality dinos or synthetics?
Valvoline MaxLife Synthetic is highly regarded by most folks over on the Bob is the Oil Guy (BITOG) forums.
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Old 08-08-2005, 11:51 PM   #48
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I didn't see this anywhere else, so here goes: I just found some 2 year old oil in a box. It's Castrol 10w40, so I can't use it in my car, but I was wondering if it was still usable.

Does oil have an expiration date?
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Old 08-09-2005, 08:36 AM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RankFrank
I didn't see this anywhere else, so here goes: I just found some 2 year old oil in a box. It's Castrol 10w40, so I can't use it in my car, but I was wondering if it was still usable.

Does oil have an expiration date?
According to the guys over on BITOG forum, if the oil is stored in say your insulated garage, basement, closet, etc. it should be fine for between 3-10 years. With that said, if in doubt don't use it in any car you care about...give it to a buddy to use in his beater.

Some message threads from BITOG on this topic:
http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/...c;f=1;t=011436
http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/...c;f=1;t=011098
http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/...c;f=1;t=010717
http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/...c;f=1;t=010092
http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/...c;f=1;t=009448

Last edited by AndyH; 08-09-2005 at 08:41 AM.
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Old 10-09-2005, 12:29 PM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by armand1
ub: a while back I did a cutup study of the Subaru OEM vs PureOne filters. It's in this thread, which also got some good comment by others on the filtering efficiency of different filter materials, etc: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...hreadid=310181
cool study, somewhat confirms my suspicions...
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