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Old 12-27-2007, 01:08 PM   #76
WRXR7
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Another great FAQ!
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Old 12-28-2007, 08:08 PM   #77
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I switched to synthetic at 102 miles and have zero problems.

I looked at it this way: The car build date is 2/2006, it had 51 miles on it after I was the last person to test drive it and bought it 8/2006. The tint shop I took my car to put 1.5 miles (probably "hard") on it (bastards). So, screw it -- it's been sitting and driven and was basically "broken in" and again, no problems.

The only time I had consumption problems is when I tried Mobil-1, so no more Mobil-1 and no more consumption.

The good book says 4.2 US quarts of oil if you do not change the filter.

It's 4.5 US quarts if you do change the filter. Some do 5.0 US quarts, but who am I to say if you should or should not?
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Old 03-22-2008, 09:15 AM   #78
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Anybody knows anything about this oil? Mobil Pro-fit

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Old 03-25-2008, 10:17 AM   #79
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A friend of mind had a lot of blow by in his ej20 and put engine restorer in his engine,believe me the blowby went down a LOT!!
Just letting people know...


Anybody else with good/bad experience?
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Old 03-25-2008, 10:57 AM   #80
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kike_ej20
Anybody knows anything about this oil? Mobil Pro-fit
It meets API SM & ILSAC GF-4 specs, so it's probably not much better than our regular M1 5W30, IMO.

-Dennis
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Old 03-28-2008, 04:35 PM   #81
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FYI, Costco is running a coupon for $8 off 6 quarts of M1 in April.
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Old 04-18-2008, 04:42 PM   #82
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Question Anyone using ENEOS Motor Oil by (NOC)?

I am thinking about running an ENEOS Synthetic; I had been using a Pennzoil Synthetic in my last Scooby, and after I do the last "set-in" change with Dino, I want to switch out to a Synthetic in my new 08 ReX. Anyone have any thoughts out there on ENEOS?

Thanks!

http://www.eneos.us/index.php
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Old 04-18-2008, 06:10 PM   #83
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Quote:
Originally Posted by arasaka View Post
I am thinking about running an ENEOS Synthetic; I had been using a Pennzoil Synthetic in my last Scooby, and after I do the last "set-in" change with Dino, I want to switch out to a Synthetic in my new 08 ReX. Anyone have any thoughts out there on ENEOS?

Thanks!

http://www.eneos.us/index.php
I love it! Running the 0-50
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Old 05-03-2008, 09:09 PM   #84
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the api oil guid link is broken
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Old 05-05-2008, 09:51 AM   #85
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Just do a search on the API's web site.
http://www.api.org/certifications/en...lGuide2006.pdf

-Dennis
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Old 05-06-2008, 12:55 AM   #86
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after reading all the FAQ and other articles I still don't know if I should change to a 10w30 for the summer or not. Since I am located in minnesota. the impreza manual is very generic. the arrows of the 5w30 and 10w30 go all the way up and down at almost any temperature on the scale. plus I don't drive the car that hard in the summer. any suggestions?
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Old 05-18-2008, 12:19 PM   #87
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I have been looking/searching for a table(here on NASIOC) that shows oil results from Motul all the way down to penzoil(<----just an example) etc wit no success.... Can anybody help me out?

Thanks
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Old 06-10-2008, 08:21 PM   #88
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how many quarts of oil do you use for a 04 wrx turbo
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Old 06-11-2008, 09:20 AM   #89
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jay r casabay View Post
how many quarts of oil do you use for a 04 wrx turbo
4.8qts.

Of course, what's the point of having .2qt of oil laying around. I have always just poured all 5qt in there.
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Old 06-18-2008, 10:18 PM   #90
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any downside to running 0-w30 Mobil1 full synthetic advanced fuel economy oil?
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Old 06-19-2008, 01:11 PM   #91
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stixtasy12 View Post
any downside to running 0-w30 Mobil1 full synthetic advanced fuel economy oil?
I depends on your driving conditions, oil change interval, etc.
M1 0W30 AFE has a low High Temp High Shear and is geared more towards fuel economy (hence the name).

I would stick with something with at least an HTHS of 3.2 or higher, especially in a hard driven bugeye.

-Dennis
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Old 07-28-2008, 03:32 PM   #92
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A question for your oil guys. On my 2007 2.5i, I switched to M1 5x30 at 3000 miles. I have done oil changes every 5000 miles since then with the same. When I called the dealership to inquire about the 15,000 mile service (the one where you get charged an extra 100 dollars to have an air filter installed ) I mentioned I wanted my oiil change done with M1 5x30, and he said he did not recommend it because subaru engines do not like synthetic oil. He argued that they are made for dino which is why they come with it from the factory. If subaru's were supposed to use synthetic, that is what they would come with.

I generally reject this kind of logic knowing that an aftermarket of premium oils exist because they can do a better job than oem stuff, but I figured I would throw it out there anyway. Am I wasting my money on M1 and using something inappropriate for my car? Or am I doing what I planned and helping to better lubricate my engine and seals, hopefully prolonging its life (I want to hit 200,000 miles on this one)?

Thanks for your input,
RM
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Old 07-28-2008, 04:07 PM   #93
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Ask your dealership where they got their degree in tribology from. When they look at you funny tell them they are idiots.
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Old 07-28-2008, 04:10 PM   #94
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Unabomber View Post
Ask your dealership where they got their degree in tribology from. When they look at you funny tell them they are idiots.
Awesome, will do. Thanks for the quick response.
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Old 07-28-2008, 04:11 PM   #95
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Find another dealer. Mine uses Syntec and Mobil1 on request, or you can BYO synthetic. The head tech won third place in the world in a tech competition, so he might know a little bit about Subes. Although I don't think he is a tribologist.

-Dennis
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Old 07-28-2008, 05:12 PM   #96
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluesubie View Post
Find another dealer. Mine uses Syntec and Mobil1 on request, or you can BYO synthetic. The head tech won third place in the world in a tech competition, so he might know a little bit about Subes. Although I don't think he is a tribologist.

-Dennis
This dealer has a generally good service department (have used mobil 1 on request twice so far), and this was the first time I had been told this which is why I posted the question. I will stick with them, and stick with my plan of M1 5x30 every 5k. Thanks for the input!
RM
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Old 12-03-2008, 12:25 PM   #97
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im gonna have to use this one next time i visit my local dealership

Quote:
Originally Posted by Unabomber View Post
Ask your dealership where they got their degree in tribology from. When they look at you funny tell them they are idiots.
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Old 12-03-2008, 01:04 PM   #98
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Flow vs pressure vs heat ??? My opinion/s...

Using some heavy oil you think is going to protect more probably wont do anymore while at operating temperature then a thinner oil because it is going to be absorbing more heat as its larger slower moving molecules go around the engine.

For best start up protection use a 0W-whatever. And when I say whatever I say that because the final full operating temperature is highly dependent on the engine. A brand new might like 0w-20 the best and as it ages reach a 0w-40.

Whatever you choose us a 0w-whatever. I used a 0w-30 and the engine is almost instantly quiet at start up when compared to the 5w-30 I used to use. This is true of both my old WRX and STI.
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Old 01-06-2009, 02:47 AM   #99
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Default true filter oil filter

what do you guys think of this besides the price

http://www.trufilter.com/
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Old 01-06-2009, 10:43 AM   #100
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dazedone View Post
what do you guys think of this besides the price

http://www.trufilter.com/
Personally I don't see the economics in that filter. Looks like it sells for about $190. I can purchase approx. 30 OEM Subaru oil filters (an excellent filter, BTW) for that amount of money which will last for 90,000 - 150,000 miles worth of oil changes (3,000 - 5,000 oil change interval).

You'd have to plan to keep your Subie for longer than that to see any benefit. Also, cleaning the filter looks to be a PITA and potentially pretty messy. I'd spend my money elsewhere, YMMV.
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