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Old 02-13-2004, 09:55 AM   #1
fc3swrx
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 21009
Join Date: Jul 2002
Chapter/Region: TXIC
Location: Sachse, Tx (North Dallas)
Vehicle:
2008 Sti
Blue w/ Gold BBS wheels

Default Got the 740's running good w/ Link 44s

I've spent about 6 hrs total getting the Car road tuned and feel I have a decent map now. I did have a few questions for any of our Link users out there.

What do you do for idle? 14.0:1 ? Is that what you aim for? I knw the UTEC was around that, maybe a little leaner.

As far as Idle. What is a good idle, 750? The car will occasionally bump up the fueling because it detects the idle below target and sometimes above.

I've tried using Maps on wrxworld.com and when I try to open them in the software only it says something about one of the values being out of range and it wants you to change it? Are those maps for a different ECU?
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Old 02-13-2004, 11:24 AM   #2
AZScoobie
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Member#: 8785
Join Date: Jul 2001
Chapter/Region: SWIC
Vehicle:
02 c_turner@ix.
netcom.com

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I idle most links at 800 rpm. You will likely have a better idle with a link around 13.5 to 1. They have a hard time idling at stoich. I usually find a smoother and more stable idle on the rich side. 12-15 degrees of advance in those idle zones can help (means 2 or 5 in the cell). The key to getting a perfect and stable idle is the Clamp value. 5 to 10 over the actual map is where I start. Watch the voltage correction setting. Sometimes you can chase your tail around if the fans are turning off and on.. Get it tuned with the fans off, Let them come on and adjust the voltage and fan setting so the AFR comes back in line.

I spent an hour or so tuning PE800's on a 2.5 block with a new style link the other day. I wanted to climb up on my roof and jump off. I had just about zero fuel control at idle.

Clark
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Old 02-13-2004, 11:42 AM   #3
fc3swrx
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 21009
Join Date: Jul 2002
Chapter/Region: TXIC
Location: Sachse, Tx (North Dallas)
Vehicle:
2008 Sti
Blue w/ Gold BBS wheels

Default hm

Quote:
Originally posted by AZScoobie
I idle most links at 800 rpm. You will likely have a better idle with a link around 13.5 to 1. They have a hard time idling at stoich. I usually find a smoother and more stable idle on the rich side. 12-15 degrees of advance in those idle zones can help (means 2 or 5 in the cell). The key to getting a perfect and stable idle is the Clamp value. 5 to 10 over the actual map is where I start. Watch the voltage correction setting. Sometimes you can chase your tail around if the fans are turning off and on.. Get it tuned with the fans off, Let them come on and adjust the voltage and fan setting so the AFR comes back in line.

I spent an hour or so tuning PE800's on a 2.5 block with a new style link the other day. I wanted to climb up on my roof and jump off. I had just about zero fuel control at idle.

Clark

Wow, I can't believe how well and easy it was to tune w/ the 740's at idle and light throttle situations. I had about 53-56 in idle zones. At WOT I got up to around 78-84 in parts. some were higher but that was the average.

Have you tuned link w/ 740's yet?
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Old 02-13-2004, 12:23 PM   #4
AZScoobie
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Join Date: Jul 2001
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Vehicle:
02 c_turner@ix.
netcom.com

Default

Yeah. The PE's are a real pain because they are slow. The Dead time on the injectors is almost twice that of the stock or pinks. Its a real pain.. I can do it and have done it but this car made me realize how much work it takes. If you have a Dyno dynamics at your disposal tuning a link can be done very easy.. You can lock load the car exactly in each Cell one by one and tune AFR and advance. Thats the only way to get it smooth as stock.

Cya

Clark
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