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Old 02-13-2004, 09:55 PM   #1
jpbpro
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Default Best way to ~300hp

I rolled about $8000 of negative equity into my rex for reasons I won't go into. Anyways, I would like to get to around 300hp with reliability being priority #1. I understand the increased hp vs reliability equation, so please no preachers. I just want to avoid a blown motor, not worried about losing some life on the clutch. My original plan was the Cobb Stg 2 reflash, tbe, and uppipe. My local dealer says he's not had a good experience with Cobb and has had several destroyed motors. Reliabilty is why I've chosen Cobb, but I tend to give my dealer the benefit of the doubt. He knows a lot more about the car than I do. At the end of the day though, he's a car salesman and every word from his mouth is suspect.
Anyways, looking for some opinions. 275-300 hp at the crank

Have
Greddy Cat Back

Thinking of getting
Cobb Accessport
Stromung dp and 3rd cat eliminator
Perrin or APC Uppipe

Then I want to be done with the engine. I want it to be simple. Reliable, installed, never want to fuss with it. Let me know your thoughts. Let me know if there is a better way.
thx
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Old 02-13-2004, 10:25 PM   #2
jbtsurf
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vishnu or TXS stage 2. im currently running TXS stage 2.5 and dusted a STi last night. i think the driver was pretty inexperienced cause i launched all over him off the line. anyway ive never dinoed my car but have always assumed it to be running 300hp at the crank.

so you pretty much need:

downpipe/midpipe
engine management
uppipe
boost control(electric preferably)
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Old 02-13-2004, 10:50 PM   #3
jpbpro
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I don't understand the combo of a boost controller and engine management.
The Cobb reflash raises boost to almost the limit of the stock turbo. I assume TXS and Vishnu do as well. Why both? Not saying your wrong. I've seen others doing it. I just don't understand it.
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Old 02-13-2004, 11:14 PM   #4
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I'm currently running a Cobb Stage 2 with the following: Vishnu uppipe, Bosal downpipe, Stromung midpipe, Bosal catback, Injen CAI, Samco IC hoses, GFB BOV, ground kit, sti shifter, 17" OZ Superleggeras, Pirelli P Zero Neros. Their dyno map says 225whp. There's no AWD dyno in ARK, but I've used a GTech Pro and the high was 221WHP...so pretty much right on. The transmission and flywheel really took a toll last year at drag strip. But these things are going to happy. I'll eventually work on this. I have a new VF34 combo kit coming in next week and plan to put a new Cobb map on that's 320CHP. I'll do another Cobb map in the summer...Stage 3 that's supposed to be 350CHP.

I don't think you can go wrong with any of the WRX tuners that specialize in WRXs...ESX, Vishnu, TurboXS, Cobb. I like Cobb because they are known in SCCA racing and are not just about all out HP mongers. Bigger isn't always better is becoming a common motto of mine when researching my next mod.
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Old 02-14-2004, 01:56 AM   #5
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Cobb stage 2 with a vf3x will be the best bet. They have been around the longest, and are the cheepest. And with the A.port you can do reflashes if you what to change maps and such for free.


And you can go wrong... some of them are just very expencive, I didnt even see any tuning options on esx's website untill you get to thier $999 stage 4.

Last edited by totoherbs; 02-14-2004 at 02:02 AM.
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Old 02-14-2004, 09:50 AM   #6
el~sharko
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Quote:
Originally posted by totoherbs
Cobb stage 2 with a vf3x will be the best bet. They have been around the longest, and are the cheepest. And with the A.port you can do reflashes if you what to change maps and such for free.
i would suggest something with knock control or monitoring, which a reflash alone will not do. Also if you want 300hp reliably, start with a 257 block + ihi turbo.
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Old 02-14-2004, 10:04 AM   #7
Zackbo
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Quote:
Originally posted by el~sharko
i would suggest something with knock control or monitoring, which a reflash alone will not do. Also if you want 300hp reliably, start with a 257 block + ihi turbo.

You don't think the 2.0 can make 300 crank reliably?
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Old 02-14-2004, 10:32 AM   #8
el~sharko
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Quote:
Originally posted by Zackbo
You don't think the 2.0 can make 300 crank reliably?
i do, but he was asking for the best way, and I was just giving him my opinion. I dont think a usdm wrx in the long run will make 300hp reliably compared to a stock wrx. I mean it also depends on your definition of reliable.
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Old 02-14-2004, 12:02 PM   #9
totoherbs
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Quote:
Originally posted by el~sharko
i would suggest something with knock control or monitoring, which a reflash alone will not do. Also if you want 300hp reliably, start with a 257 block + ihi turbo.
Ya, I agree that you should have gages, and something to watch the knock.... As for the ej257 yes it would be easyer, but its also going to cost 5 times more just for a short block swap.
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Old 02-14-2004, 02:33 PM   #10
z&cobb
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Quote:
Originally posted by totoherbs
Ya, I agree that you should have gages, and something to watch the knock.... As for the ej257 yes it would be easyer, but its also going to cost 5 times more just for a short block swap.
I really appreciated the UTEC blinking the CEL at me after getting a bad tank of gas last week (probably 87 octane). Between that and the boost gauge and the ABC, and MMT additive plus 93 BP/Amoco for dilution, it was easy to get back up to 16.5 to 17 psi max after the TXS TMIC.

I believe somewhat over 300 at the crank is OK. It has been OK for 53,000 miles so far. I don't go full bore at full output for too long in the kind of driving I do. I monitor the IC tanks soak temps gauges and use water/alcohol spray in anticipation of a strong pull, if necessary. For example, if the temp at the intake of the snorkle is 50 F, I like the cold tank to be 53 F (with spray) or about 57F without spray. Hot tank temps can be about 87 F under those conditions.

You can't have too many gauges. Oil temp, and volts are nice too.
Real time info is very valuable for keeping the engine happy.



PS: The car has a much better "drivability" factor than when it was stock. I tried to make it as close as possible to my na 300ZX at lower rpms.
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Old 02-16-2004, 06:45 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally posted by jikhead
I'm currently running a Cobb Stage 2 with the following: Vishnu uppipe, Bosal downpipe, Stromung midpipe, Bosal catback, Injen CAI, Samco IC hoses, GFB BOV, ground kit, sti shifter, 17" OZ Superleggeras, Pirelli P Zero Neros. Their dyno map says 225whp. There's no AWD dyno in ARK, but I've used a GTech Pro and the high was 221WHP...so pretty much right on.
jikhead: I don't want to hijack, but are you running a generic stage 2 map or was it tweaked by anyone? Maybe you should get rid of the CAI. I know I'm going back to stock + panel filter once my accessport comes.

Also, totoherbs is probably right. Cheapest and easiest way to ~300hp would be a vf34 and the remap (free with accessport!) to stage 2.5, and then 3.0 whenever thats around.
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Old 02-16-2004, 09:51 PM   #12
el~sharko
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Quote:
Originally posted by allanak
jikhead: I don't want to hijack, but are you running a generic stage 2 map or was it tweaked by anyone? Maybe you should get rid of the CAI. I know I'm going back to stock + panel filter once my accessport comes.

Also, totoherbs is probably right. Cheapest and easiest way to ~300hp would be a vf34 and the remap (free with accessport!) to stage 2.5, and then 3.0 whenever thats around.
the cheapest way, can be done without a bigger turbo. Remember he said reliability is his number one priority, not bang for the bang value.
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Old 02-16-2004, 10:52 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally posted by el~sharko
the cheapest way, can be done without a bigger turbo. Remember he said reliability is his number one priority, not bang for the bang value.
Cobb is the most reliable shop out there... they have been around this long for some dam good reasons.
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Old 02-16-2004, 11:08 PM   #14
jikhead
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but are you running a generic stage 2 map or was it tweaked by anyone? Maybe you should get rid of the CAI.

No I haven't it's the base Stage 2 map. According to Josh, the CAI must come off. I think once I've got the new turbo on w/factory intake...I'm gonna buy a GTech Pro and do some runs with the factory and CAI...see what I get. This is no real dyno but there's not a single AWD dyno in the state.
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Old 02-16-2004, 11:30 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally posted by jikhead
but are you running a generic stage 2 map or was it tweaked by anyone? Maybe you should get rid of the CAI.

No I haven't it's the base Stage 2 map. According to Josh, the CAI must come off. I think once I've got the new turbo on w/factory intake...I'm gonna buy a GTech Pro and do some runs with the factory and CAI...see what I get. This is no real dyno but there's not a single AWD dyno in the state.
Its not so much that they might be worth a few hp but that it will do funny things to the MAF.
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Old 02-16-2004, 11:36 PM   #16
03WRXMA
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Quote:
Originally posted by totoherbs
Its not so much that they might be worth a few hp but that it will do funny things to the MAF.
Exactly. The diameter of the pipe is diff. and throws things off. Use the OEM intake and trust Cobb if you go with their reflash
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Old 02-16-2004, 11:40 PM   #17
el~sharko
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Quote:
Originally posted by totoherbs
Cobb is the most reliable shop out there... they have been around this long for some dam good reasons.
Quote:
Originally posted by el~sharko
i would suggest something with knock control or monitoring, which a reflash alone will not do.
also i was trying to make the point, that if your gonna make 300hp on a stock ej205, you can easily do it on the stock turbo.

jpbpro: your best bet is just get an exhaust + EM, that should put you right where you wanna be.
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Old 02-17-2004, 12:11 AM   #18
totoherbs
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Quote:
Originally posted by el~sharko
also i was trying to make the point, that if your gonna make 300hp on a stock ej205, you can easily do it on the stock turbo.

jpbpro: your best bet is just get an exhaust + EM, that should put you right where you wanna be.
Ya but at 105% the stocker isnt going to last long.... and with the added heat its putting out its going to take other things with it.
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Old 02-17-2004, 06:40 AM   #19
el~sharko
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Quote:
Originally posted by totoherbs
Ya but at 105% the stocker isnt going to last long.... and with the added heat its putting out its going to take other things with it.
Quote:
Originally posted by totoherbs
Cobb is the most reliable shop out there... they have been around this long for some dam good reasons.
hmmm, I guess the cobb stg2 that will get you there doesn't use the stocker for that reason.
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Old 02-17-2004, 01:30 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally posted by el~sharko
hmmm, I guess the cobb stg2 that will get you there doesn't use the stocker for that reason.
Yup, vf30/35...
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Old 02-17-2004, 05:26 PM   #21
el~sharko
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Quote:
Originally posted by totoherbs
Yup, vf30/35...
so I'm assuming they just haven't updated their webpage with the new change to their stage2 package that you speak of?
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Old 02-17-2004, 05:33 PM   #22
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AE-WRX-VF34-91
VF34 Map
Requires VF34, STI Injectors
Turboback Exhaust, Uppipe
STOCK Intake and Intercooler 315HP / 295 ft-lbs 91 octane 1.04

http://cobbtuning.com/wrx/accessecu.html





and its 34/30 my bad...
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Old 02-17-2004, 05:33 PM   #23
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From http://cobbtuning.com/wrx/accessecu.html
Description: VF34 Map - Requires VF34, STI Injectors, Turboback Exhaust, Uppipe, STOCK Intake and Intercooler = 315HP / 295 ft-lbs @ 91 Octane (320/300@93 Octane)
Same numbers given for the VF30....No dyno graphs to speak of for this specific map on Cobb's site, however.
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Old 02-17-2004, 05:40 PM   #24
el~sharko
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Quote:
Originally posted by el~sharko
hmmm, I guess the cobb stg2 that will get you there doesn't use the stocker for that reason.
Quote:
Originally posted by totoherbs
Yup, vf30/35...
When you said this, you made it look like you were saying the vf30 came with their stage2. I was a little confused.
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Old 02-17-2004, 05:45 PM   #25
02WRX_BLUE
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[quote]Have
Greddy Cat Back

Thinking of getting
Cobb Accessport
Stromung dp and 3rd cat eliminator
Perrin or APC Uppipe
[quote]

May I suggest "Helix Downpipe and PERRIN uppipe with out EGT bung to complete the TBE... The bell mouth of Helix is nicely casted that it should last longer than the SS only downpipes...

Then, You should get "VF34 or VF30" turbo along with "STI PINK Injector", "Walbro Fuel Bump", & "UTEC (Biased since I had UTEC and loved every option it had)" ..

Tune it and you should be happy..

I don't think STOCK injector could provide reliability even if you could get up to 300 crank HP..

When I had 02 WRX, my stock injector's IDC was 85 to 95 running 16.5 PSI using 93 OCT with stock turbos...

Just my 2 cents..
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