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Old 12-02-2007, 09:55 AM   #251
mrcoder
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Default buy the Subaru Coolant now, get paid back later

The best way to play Subaru's coolant scam, practically speaking, might be to just buy the Subaru Coolant, and keep the receipts in a safe place.

The second step is to collect your money back from Subaru later when they are forced by US law to pay everyone back who was scammed.
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Old 12-02-2007, 09:13 PM   #252
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrcoder View Post
They are only human.
This is the most pitiful excuse for an excuse I can think of.
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Old 01-23-2008, 11:29 AM   #253
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Unabomber View Post
Yeah...I need to update it one of these days, but the main post is fairly up to date, read it and you will be fine.
When you do (or if) could you add a little bit on similarities/ differences between the WRX and/ or STi radiators, if in fact they are swapable.
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Old 02-01-2008, 03:43 PM   #254
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i just flushed my coolant and now the coolant has foam on top of it there was no foam before the flush, does the conditioner cause this?
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Old 02-01-2008, 04:15 PM   #255
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I think I've had a small amount of foam before too. Just make sure you burp it well. Run it for a bit to circulate. Burp again. Foam should go away.
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Old 02-01-2008, 06:30 PM   #256
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burp it as in just squeze the top rad hose?
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Old 04-08-2008, 11:17 AM   #257
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This is a Great Cooling FAQ.
However, it seems that Turbo Engines really run HOT and thus Fail.
Thus, shouldn't we also include information on other Cooling System Upgrades such as:
Oil Cooler
Bigger Oil Pan
STI Oil Pump
Heat Shield and Wrap
Racing Fans
Fan Thermoswitch
Intake SF Air Box
Radiator Shroud
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Old 04-08-2008, 11:32 AM   #258
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"Cool" thread Unabomber.

ok enough brown nosing for me
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Old 07-11-2008, 11:36 PM   #259
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Default i n00b. i can has help?

If I have this correct, coolant drains out from hole #2 right? I know that I can also expect some coolant to leak out from around the threads of the petcock, correct? So what is hole number #1 for? Will coolant come out of there too?

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Old 07-12-2008, 09:39 PM   #260
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DUBO, coolant is going to drain from 1, 2, and possibly 3. 3 being the plug. Most of it will come out of 1 and pour out onto the subframe. Put a "wide" drain pan underneath to save yourself the headache.

FYI:
I finished a Coolant Replacement (not flush) procedure on the IWSTI's site. http://www.iwsti.com/forums/how-inst...nt-change.html
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Old 07-29-2008, 11:44 PM   #261
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Hi, i got my car from a used dealership so i do not know if they added coolant additive. Is there a way to check if i have it? Or is has to be in there because its "required" and just means i need to add it if i change it myself? I am confused. Thank you.
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Old 07-30-2008, 07:08 PM   #262
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There's no way to know or to check. If it wasn't a Subaru dealer you can be 99% sure there is no additive.
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Old 08-30-2008, 04:40 PM   #263
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I reviewed and completely updated this today. That's two FAQs updated today, so my work here is done.
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Old 08-30-2008, 05:12 PM   #264
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Quote:
straight deionized water in a cooling system, as it by itself, it is VERY corrosive and caustic
still not true. It's very benign (particularly towards passive metals like aluminum) and near neutral in pH (it's actually non-trivial to measure the pH in true DI water). The bigger issue you face by eliminating coolant is the loss of the inhibitors and the accentuation of any chemistry change which might happen due to whatever residual crap is sitting around in the cooling system.

Some people have claimed DI water is corrosive due to evidence of corrosion where condensate forms, however, one has to remember that as soon as any metal dissolution has taken place and metal ions pushed into solution, the pH is going to swing (usually acidify due to hydrolysis of the metal ions - as an example, under oxygenated conditions, you can generate a pH on the order of 3 or so with iron (under deoxygenated conditions, you don't have ferric ions, only ferrous (i.e., +2), so the pH you can achieve is just south of 5.
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Old 08-30-2008, 07:10 PM   #265
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You damned materials guys!

The above quoted statement was given to me by people across from Kartboy who are specialized water providers in San Diego...they sell RO units, rainmakers, etc. I'm not dorky enough to offer a counter-argument to your statement or theirs, but suffice it to say anyone running straight water of ANY kind is usually dorky enough to know the pros and cons of doing such a "high tech" thing.
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Old 09-19-2008, 12:59 AM   #266
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Sorry If this issue was covered in one of these posts!
I was just ****ing around today with my car and so I took off the upper coolant reservoir cap and noticed some air bubbles came out of the system, I then proceeded to take off the lower/rad cap and suddenly coolant started flowing out! Not a big deal I know but I'm just wondering if its normal (simple physics?) or do I have too much coolant? (I haven't gone and checked the level yet)
Id appreciate any input, thanks.
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Old 09-19-2008, 02:57 AM   #267
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dub c View Post
wondering if its normal (simple physics?)
yup, normal.
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Old 09-19-2008, 09:44 PM   #268
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You can not put in 'too much' coolant. The design of the system simply makes it impossible to do without modification. It is actually best to have it completely full of coolant with absolutely no air-though I don't know that this would be possible without using some sort of vaccuum.

Also, the coolant pouring out was mostly likely do to the fact that there was an area within the coolant system with liquid in it that was higher than the opening you made. Liquid always seeks its own lowest level (not sure if I wrote that right).

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Old 12-02-2008, 12:58 PM   #269
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Interesting factoids...

I just did a 60k service on my SAAB 9-2x.
The manual calls for genuine SAAB coolant or regular ethyl-glycol...
So, this would indicate that virtually any anti-freeze is ok in WRXs.

Oddly, it also calls for "genuine conditioner". It does not specify the brand of the conditioner. I would challenge my 9-2x buddies to go to the SAAB dealership and see if they can actually obtain SAAB branded coolant conditioner. Personally, I'll risk the "leaks".
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Old 02-01-2009, 03:14 AM   #270
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ive heard that using an aftermarket cap is not good with the 02 wrx coolant system. can anyone shed some light on that? my wrx still leaks coolant with new mishimoto radiator with the cap it came with. (note, now i have stock cap and aftermarket cap.)

thanks




i posted a thread on this and Unabomber closed it and referred me here. unfortunately i still have the same problem after an hour of reading this thread.... any help anyone?
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Old 02-01-2009, 05:57 PM   #271
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Timmaaaay....READ the first post, your answer is in there. I wouldn't close a thread and lead you down a blind alley. Maybe use Control + F and use your browser's search function will zoom you down to it, but otherwise, polish up your reading glasses.
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Old 02-02-2009, 02:53 PM   #272
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Unabomber View Post
Timmaaaay....READ the first post, your answer is in there. I wouldn't close a thread and lead you down a blind alley. Maybe use Control + F and use your browser's search function will zoom you down to it, but otherwise, polish up your reading glasses.
i admin a forum too, i know you have to keep things clean.
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Old 02-02-2009, 02:55 PM   #273
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i read the first post, but that isnt my problem. it is leaking somewhere, but i dont know where or how.
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Old 02-04-2009, 09:28 AM   #274
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Then you have another issue for another thread. Methinks you need to check the drain valve on your Mishimoto as I've heard people say those damn things leak. Either way, I'd have that sucker welded up and just use the lower radiator hose to drain coolant just to be sure.
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Old 02-04-2009, 04:51 PM   #275
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now my coolant temp gauge is stuck in the middle...
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