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Old 04-20-2004, 01:37 PM   #51
sp00n32
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One thing that made draining the coolant easier is to remove the tube that goes to the overflow tank and attach that to the radiator drain spout. This hangs over perfect to your collection bucket.

Or just park on your neighbor’s lawn so you don’t have to use a bucket at all
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Old 04-20-2004, 06:29 PM   #52
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[QUOTEThis link[/url] will help you get any trapped air out. [/b][/quote]

Then what's the endwrench article talking about? There's a picture of a phillips head screw, and it's called the air bleeder... I just don't get it.

Ben
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Old 05-10-2004, 07:34 PM   #53
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Drain plugs on WRX

I took a quick look under the engine today. It looks like one drain plug is directly over the oil filter housing with a hose connected to the housing. Is that the drain for the right side? Just remove the hose?
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Old 05-10-2004, 08:26 PM   #54
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Bimmer,

The article does show an "air bleeder screw", but the step by step process never talks about using it. I have read several coolant walkthroughs and they are basically the same: drain, fill, run the engine to burp, fill, burp, fill. I assume the screw picture is an error.

Columbo,

No, that should be the coolant line for the oil cooler. The coolant drain valve is attached to the radiator.
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Old 05-10-2004, 08:32 PM   #55
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I know that's the RADIATOR drain, I'm talkin' 'bout the BLOCK drains.
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Old 05-10-2004, 11:03 PM   #56
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Page 2 of this thread has a line drawing, or go here for photos.
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Old 05-11-2004, 12:16 AM   #57
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So.....I went and took a second look under the engine, and guess what? I saw what I saw the first time. The pictures/drawings are different than what is on the WRX 2.0L engine. The pictures/drawings must be for a 2.5L or 2.2L without coolant going to the oil filter mounting. One drawing does say "NA" engine. I don't think it's worth the risk of damaging that little hose to drain a small amount of coolant.

Past experience with other engines (not opposed) is that quite a bit of coolant remains in the engine block.

What concerns me more than a complete "liquid change" is getting out any sediment that remains in the lower engine.
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Old 05-11-2004, 07:43 AM   #58
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Thanks for the info! When I do my next oil change, I will snap a photo or two for future reference. I also have to find a factory service manual to see if I can find the 100% correct answer. I assumed the drain points were the same. So much for my assumption.
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Old 05-11-2004, 04:37 PM   #59
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Quote:
Originally posted by Unabomber
Thanks for the info! When I do my next oil change, I will snap a photo or two for future reference. I also have to find a factory service manual to see if I can find the 100% correct answer. I assumed the drain points were the same. So much for my assumption.
The drain points should be the same, the hose is going to the water-to-oil heat exchanger right about the filter in the wrxes. The modification on scoobymods shows it done on the older models, and is basically the same setup.

But honestly, just draining at the radiator gets almost the entire capacity of ~8 quarts. If you really want to be more thorough, instead of removing the drain bolts, you can just remove the thermostat housing.
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Old 05-15-2004, 08:22 PM   #60
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Earlier this month Subaru issued a Technical Service Bulletin describing a new recommended procedure for refilling engine coolant. It is 09-39-04 and its decription says:
Quote:
The purpose of this bulletin is to address proper refilling of the engine coolant system. To prevent air pockets, an evacuation and refilling tool is required. This required tool can be obtained through Kent Moore, Snap-on or your local tool distributor. The tool creates a vacuum in the coolant system removing possible air pockets allowing for efficient refilling of the engine coolant system.
http://techinfo.subaru.com/html/litS...39-04&x=45&y=5
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Old 05-16-2004, 08:47 PM   #61
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Thanks for the info Jon! The question is.....how much is this new tool? It it's relatively cheap, it may be worth it for those of us that perform lots on maintenance for locals. If not, we will have to continue "hose burping" and our wallets will thank us!
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Old 05-18-2004, 01:05 PM   #62
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Quote:
Originally posted by Unabomber
Depending on which of the 9000 websites you believe, deionized water is purer than distilled. More pure = better. As with many of my "facts", there is controversy on this issue with an associated high geek factor that I don't even want to go into. Even though it's "better" I have no clue in the world where anyone would go to get deionized water though. I did find it online @ $30/gallon, so I would assume that 99% of readers will just "settle" for distilled.
What does the dealer use? Tap water? Premix?
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Old 06-15-2004, 06:13 PM   #63
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Is there any harm just straight adding a bottle of Water Wetter to the mix now without flushing hte coolant? Or is it better advised to flush and then make a whole new coolant/water/WW mix?
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Old 06-16-2004, 01:30 PM   #64
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No one can say what dealers use, though I would suspect 99% fo them use tap water.

No harm by adding WW now. It's pretty cheap, so I say now and with each cooling service.
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Old 07-03-2004, 10:29 PM   #65
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Im puting in Prestone quick fill 5/150 extended life 50/50 pre-diluted coolant tonight. It says "GM dex-cool approved"; who knows what that really means. From info on these forums, I knew to stay away from the yellow and gold bottles. However, I found that there is one dark grey (what I chose) and a grey silvery bottle. I hope I went with the right one. Im doing a flush with distilled water and using the coolant conditioner from subaru. At first I thought that the 50/50 premix was just a stupid gimick (since the price is the same as the other ones) but I guess it is more convenient when topping off while burping the system. If my car blows up I'll let you guys know.
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Old 07-15-2004, 07:47 PM   #66
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Re the draining discussion above...

I had a local independent (Smart Subaru) do my coolant change as I didn't want to deal with the spillage/cleanup/disposal issues (especially with pets in the household!). They drained by removing the thermostat housing, as noted above; apparently their SOP for this operation.
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Old 07-16-2004, 09:02 PM   #67
PeterJ
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Its been a few weeks now, and there is a wierd sludge at the bottom of the overflow tank. I noticed that these very fine particles were in the gasket conditioner and the coolant as I was pouring it in; it seems as they have separated and are now sitting at the bottom of the tank. There was a very small amount of sludge at the bottom of the tank when I first changed the fluid, but now its like an inch deep. Grab a flashlight and see if you guys have this sludge; meanwhile, I'll research...
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Old 07-20-2004, 06:48 PM   #68
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Hey, I just called my Subaru dealership. It is time to do a coolant flush. I want to do it elsewhere, and was going to buy the coolant and coolant conditioner. The Parts guy said I cannot buy it, it is a warranty 'part', only service can add it.

Huh? Is this true? Are they going to pay for my time, too? Asshats.
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Old 07-20-2004, 08:34 PM   #69
Psydotek
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I bought it from my local dealer.
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Old 07-20-2004, 09:09 PM   #70
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I recently did a cooling system service using the Peak Global 50/50 premix. It's been a couple of months and about 1500 miles, no signs of sludge or other issues. I did not use any conditioner or other additives.
The Peak Global is rated for 5/150 use only if not mixed with conventional antifreeze, if any remains in the system then it is only rated for standard drain intervals. However it is phosphate- and silicate-free.
Using the premix is most convenient and eliminates the distilled/tap/other water issue.
I drained the radiator only through the drain plug and the system took just about the full 2 gallons to refill, so I doubt much was left behind after draining.
As part of the service I replaced my radiator (due to some damage and minor leaks) with an 03 radiator which has the cap. I refilled the system through the radiator, with both caps off, then when it was full I filled the engine tank through the other cap. Finally I added some to the bottle. I did the filling slowly, and it all went in. No burping was needed. Put the caps on and ran the engine to operating temp, fans went on and off normally, no sign of trapped air. Been fine ever since.
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Old 09-04-2004, 07:49 PM   #71
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In case anyone's not interested in mail-ordering their coolant or making the trek to a Subaru dealer, I picked up plain ol' Zerex antifreeze not too long ago for $7.50 at AutoZone:



It's a green, low-silicate, conventional, 5-year/100,000-mile antifreeze, and along with a $1 gallon of distilled water, makes for a cheap and convenient coolant change.
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Old 09-07-2004, 09:00 AM   #72
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mulder
I drained the radiator only through the drain plug and the system took just about the full 2 gallons to refill, so I doubt much was left behind after draining.
When I changed my radiator out, I first drained through the drain plug. Then I removed the upper radiator mounts and radiator hoses, I angled the radiator to drain out of the lower hose and a good amount still came out, but no more than maybe a pint.
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Old 09-12-2004, 02:00 AM   #73
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sticky?!?
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Old 09-12-2004, 05:10 PM   #74
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Phil Jr.
sticky?!?
Not yet it isn't. Maybe one day though.

Well, I finally did a complete coolant swap. I removed the lower radiator hose and drained it that way, which in fact, made is slightly less mess than using the drain valve. When using the drain valve on the radiator, it allows the coolant to hit a "cross member" piece directly below it sending a fan of coolant in a 360 degree pattern. By using the lower radiator hose, you can actually catch 99% of the coolant other than the inital splash that occurs when you take off the hose. I also removed the overflow tank and completely cleaned it out and reinstalled it.

Once empty, I installed a Crucial Racing Thermostat and buttoned up the system. In went:
1. Subaru cooling system conditioner. ~$1
2. One bottle of Red Line Water Wetter. ~$9
3. Roughly 3/4 gallon Peak Global Extended Life coolant. ~$9
4. Roughly 3/4 gallon distilled water. ~$2

Once the radiator, expansion tank, and overflow tank were all to their full levels, I squeezed the upper radiator hose several times. With each squeeze, it sucked more water out of the expansion tank by the turbo. Once full, I ran the engine at idle for 5 minutes and then went for a spirited drive, keeping a cautious eye on my temp gauge. I came back, let the car sit for 15 minutes and added a little more coolant to the expansion tank after burping the top radiator hose again a few times.

Since my car is a one owner 2004, I decided not to mess with a full flush as with a new car it's really not needed. The coolant I used is also 100% compatible with any coolant on the market, so there is added peace of mind in my coolant choice as well.
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Old 09-12-2004, 05:30 PM   #75
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Good choice on the Peak Global.
As I mentioned in my post above they have a premix flavor which makes filling even easier. No need to obtain distilled water. Maybe it's not available in all areas, but I was able to buy it here.
I'm surprised you had to burp yours since it's an 04 with the two caps.
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