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Old 02-23-2004, 11:48 AM   #1
SillyAssKilby
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Default Whiteline rear subframe lock bolts

Just need a little info on this mod.
Benefits?
Negatives?
What does it do exactually(sp?)

Thanks,
Kilby
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Old 02-23-2004, 11:53 AM   #2
Kha0S
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Tightens up rear end of the car, faster response in cornering transitions.

Increased NVH, increased (negative) camber (correct with rear camber bolts), heard people talk about the bolts ripping out of the frame (hasn't happened to me with 30k miles on the set).

It effectively removes all compliance in the rear differential crossmember by preloading the rubber bushings at the four corners of the piece, and locking the crossmember against the frame of the car.

/Andrew
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Old 02-23-2004, 01:37 PM   #3
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I like mine No problems in over a year...
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Old 02-23-2004, 02:04 PM   #4
SillyAssKilby
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In reading whitelines documentation is says that you should remove these when not on the track. From your above post you have had them in for 30k start with now problems?
Thanks for the response.

Another question for anyone where would these fall in a upgrade path?
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Old 02-23-2004, 02:11 PM   #5
North Ursalia
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I've had them on for perhaps 60k miles at this point, with no discernible negative effects.


Brian

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Old 02-23-2004, 02:24 PM   #6
Kha0S
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I've had 'em in for 30k with no ill effect.

/Andrew
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Old 02-23-2004, 03:04 PM   #7
WRX_REED
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Hmmm,

Would give a recommendation for these, except............................

















THEY DID NOT WORK FOR ME!!!!!!!!!!!!












ARGGGGGGGGGHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!







Aside from that, I guess you can give it a try.

- WRX_REED
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Old 02-23-2004, 03:29 PM   #8
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More specific. They did not work how, or why.
Thanks
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Old 02-23-2004, 10:07 PM   #9
WRX_REED
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Should see my post in this forum from yesterday. The bolts fit about halfway down and then one of the thread plates that the bolts attached to snapped, now I have two bolts that just turn, cannot advance them further, nor back them out. Had to add silicon on them until they can be cut to prevent them from rattling. Kit is a piece of *****! Even looked at the bolts and they seem a bit too large at the base to fit in the hole, they definately do not bottom out. But hey, what do I know. My car is a MY2000 RS, who knows maybe the WRX 2002+'s and above could handle it, but I would not chance it by myself, would take it to a shop and have them snap the threads so that they are responsble for handling it without charge. Otherwise stay with the Differential Bushings they are much easier to put on and essentially do the same thing!

- Henry

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Old 02-23-2004, 11:48 PM   #10
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The bolts don't go in all the way. The heads of the bolt end up being about 1/4" from the subframe. This allows up and down travel of the subframe. The diameter of the widest section of the bolt actually does fit inside the holes of the subframe. It's a VERY close fit, and you may need to shift around the subframe to line it up. I had to unbolt the 4 mounting bolts to be able to move around the subframe.
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Old 02-24-2004, 09:44 AM   #11
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Default Alignment

after you moved your sub frame did you need an alignment. Do you need to have your alignment checked after just installing these if no sub frame adjustment is needed. Thanks for all of the good info.
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Old 02-24-2004, 11:23 AM   #12
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As far as leaving them out by a 1/4 inch, mine went all the way flush, and that's how they're supposed to go. The whole point of the kit is to remove all vertical compliance of the subframe.

Also, I would reccomend installing camber bolts so you can camber the wheels out (that is, add positive camber) at the same time, then bring it for an alignment.

/Andrew
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Old 02-24-2004, 11:30 AM   #13
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Default Nice

Thanks everyone for your input. I think that for 35 bucs it is a worthwhile mod to attempt.
Kilby
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Old 02-24-2004, 11:42 AM   #14
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To avoid trouble on the install....I sprayed the holes out with some brake cleaner and used a pipe cleaner to make sure the threads were clean. I put a small dab of grease on the threads of the bolts and got one bolt started...4-5 turns...then I used a prybar to move the subframe to get the other hole aligned and put the other bolt in.
I then alternatly tightened them untill flush and torqued them to 66ft-lbs.

HTH
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Old 02-24-2004, 12:08 PM   #15
SillyAssKilby
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Default Alright will do

thanks for the detail. I will keep all of this in mind when I install. Look out for my next post about the Whiteline subframe bushings.
Kilby
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Old 02-24-2004, 12:49 PM   #16
North Ursalia
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Quote:
Originally posted by WRX_REED
The bolts fit about halfway down and then one of the thread plates that the bolts attached to snapped, now I have two bolts that just turn, cannot advance them further, nor back them out. Had to add silicon on them until they can be cut to prevent them from rattling. Kit is a piece of *****!
How is it Whiteline's fault that the weld on the captive nut broke? The locking bolt is not what broke. I could agree with you if the bolt broke going in, but not the captive nut. It's very possible you crossthreaded the lock bolt and that's what broke the weld on the captive nut anyway. Take off the blinders and realize where to place the blame.


Brian

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Old 02-24-2004, 02:55 PM   #17
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NicGordon,

Again, I could be wrong But I believe that the bolts were suppose to be flush with the carrier plate. Would not make any sense that the bolts stick out 1/4". And I bet you a dime to the dollar that if you tightened your bolts that something gonna snap. So I'd be careful. Just a little advice from past experience

- WRX_REED
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Old 02-24-2004, 03:11 PM   #18
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North Ursulia,

I don't want to cause or make a flame war and I like Whiteline products alot, I have the Diff Bushings, their springs, steering rack bushing mounts and other products. It's just that there was no information provided with the kit, the carrier plate and holding plate were aligned, and with such tight clearances I cannot believe that halfway through tightening that the plates could shift that much to bind the bolts (although it may, I am no expert in this, just seems less likely to happen). The information I am talking about is the installation of the bolts provided in the kit, seems very skimpy and did not provide this as a possible, though frequent problem. However, to their credit they did warn about possible effects to the chassis as a whole if not removed after racing. Which again makes you wonder a little that if these are meant to be removed and placed periodically that placement should not be so problematic. Again, just my 2 cents, take it or leave it. But even others appear to have problems installing what should have mounted to a simple 2 bolt mod screw in.

- WRX_REED
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Old 02-24-2004, 10:23 PM   #19
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Old 02-24-2004, 10:26 PM   #20
North Ursalia
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WRX_REED,

Fair enough . Their install instructions until very recently weren't that great- you should have seen me installing my Anti Lift Kit about 3 years ago . I just wanted to make sure people understood it wasn't the bolts that sucked, and that it was the install that was being the bear about things .


Brian

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Old 02-25-2004, 12:11 AM   #21
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North Ursalia: Good, I am glad we are all part of the big Happy Family called NASIOC again.........so now when do have the group sex???


UncleScotty: Interesting reference, the same was in the kit/package, but the pic was a ditto copy and not like in the PDF you have there, kinda blurry and undecipherable. Upon closer look on the picture, I noticed that the bolt does not appear to be flush. And others have stated that they did not flush mount their bolts.. wonder if the bolts *are* suppose too stick out at the tapers??? Can anyone else verify this?

- WRX_REED
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Old 02-25-2004, 12:39 AM   #22
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"3. Tighten the new bolts until they bottom out and torque to 90Nm(66ft-lb)."
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Old 02-25-2004, 01:44 AM   #23
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But what is 'bottom out'? Some have their bolts flush with the carrier plate others appear to have them stuck a 1/4" out.

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Old 02-25-2004, 01:57 AM   #24
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I have installed the KSB750 sub-frame lock kit on my own car and 3 other WRX's. I have installed them so that the shoulder of the bolt is touching the subframe.
Since it is obviously possible to install these bolts in this manner, it is my professional opinion that this is, indeed, the only correct installation for the KSB750 sub-frame lock kit bolts.
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Old 02-26-2004, 01:21 AM   #25
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Well on my RS I could only get the bolt in as far as in the PDF instructions show. Nothing was binding and I tighten until the torque value. Perhaps the GC and GD series rear subframes are different? Who knows.
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