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Old 03-01-2004, 02:26 PM   #1
Chewy-WRX
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Default Bass Blockers

I'm thinking about getting 6.5 component speakers for the front.

Rockford Fosgate - FNX 2614 6.5" 70w RMS Component

Should I use bass blockers? If so, what frequency?
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Old 03-01-2004, 03:04 PM   #2
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Its not needed.
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Old 03-01-2004, 05:19 PM   #3
mudshovel
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no components usually come with a crossover
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Old 03-01-2004, 06:12 PM   #4
teiva-boy
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Quote:
Originally posted by mudshovel
no components usually come with a crossover

But not a "bassblocker" that blocks low frequencies from the woofer.
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Old 03-01-2004, 06:16 PM   #5
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What kind of stereo do you have????
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Old 03-01-2004, 08:12 PM   #6
redwagon
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If you're just putting hu power to the comps they usually don't need them. If you are amplified you may find you can put more power to the comps if you cut the lower frequencies. Low frequencies require long excursion from the driver, so you may find the voice coil bottoming out. If you were using a subwoofer you'd normally have your comp set high-passed at 70 or 80hz.
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Old 03-01-2004, 08:24 PM   #7
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I'm just a dumb*** but I totally trust my shop - a wall full of trophies is good enough for me. When I first installed my Phoinix Gold / MB Quart system, I was getting some very annoying buzz from the driver's door just on certain, bass heavy songs. When I traded that car (02 Wagon) in Jan for my 04 sedan, I had the shop to switch out the old system. They installed the bass blockers at that time for no charge and it made all the difference! He said that if that didn't do the trick to come back & he'd try a different freq but no complaints. If you wish, I can check with him & let you know exactly what he did. You may be best off to wait & see if you need them depending on your system & musical tastes.
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Old 03-01-2004, 11:02 PM   #8
redwagon
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If you have a subwoofer installed there's no need to drive the comps full range. Cross them at about 80hz and get better power handling. If you don't have a sub and don't plan on one, then you'll probably want to mat the door completely to kill the buzzing at the source. You'll greatly improve midbass response in the process. It's more time and effort than installing filters but it's your call.
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Old 03-02-2004, 02:48 AM   #9
it8ezbngrn
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Cheaper version is to get capacitors. Same thing, try 47 MFD and 100MFD. Try te 100 first it is a lower cut off 47 is probably to high.

Some decks have x overs built in.
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Old 03-02-2004, 03:33 AM   #10
redwagon
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Quote:
Originally posted by it8ezbngrn
Cheaper version is to get capacitors. Same thing, try 47 MFD and 100MFD. Try te 100 first it is a lower cut off 47 is probably to high.

Some decks have x overs built in.
Yes, good idea. The caps want to be rated 25V or higher. In this kind of application you can get away with bipolar electrolytics. Regular electrolytics (with + and - signs on them) will fail.
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Old 03-02-2004, 11:08 AM   #11
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I will be adding a sub.

Nothing is done yet... I'm just getting all the info before I start.

The comps will be powered by a RF Punch 301s or 201s. And eventually a seperate amp will power a sub.

So I guess I will use bass blockers... is there a type you guys would recommend?
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Old 03-02-2004, 03:03 PM   #12
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On that subject, what are the bass-blockers that aren't crossovers that are just in-wire bassblockers? How much? Where to get? My door speakers get distorted from bass and I have a sub. I want to be able to have the bass turned up W/O the door speakers going all p*$$y on me.
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Old 03-02-2004, 03:27 PM   #13
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Hi, I bought "my first suby" and thought I might put in my 2 cents. The product "bass blockers" is to my knowledge just a capacitor with a little bit of heat shrink wrapped on for good measure. As far as limiting the bass frequency in speakers goes, the best way is via a active crossover system. Unfortunately these are not cheap. So the second option would be a capacitor wired in series between the speaker leads and the speaker itself. If I am not fubbing the math you would need approximately 500 microfarads of capacitance to give you a roll off frequency of 80 hertz. This would allow for some bass but will minimize any speaker damage and maximize speaker efficiency. I would recommend buying the best caps you can get to help reduce the sound impairment inherent with this type of crossover.

links to capselectronix.com
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Old 03-02-2004, 03:29 PM   #14
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Old 03-02-2004, 08:03 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally posted by Chewy-WRX
I will be adding a sub.

Nothing is done yet... I'm just getting all the info before I start.

The comps will be powered by a RF Punch 301s or 201s. And eventually a seperate amp will power a sub.

So I guess I will use bass blockers... is there a type you guys would recommend?

Harrison Lab makes a good FMOD Crossover. You install these in your RCA cable before it reaches your amp.

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshow...number=266-252
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Old 03-02-2004, 08:47 PM   #16
redwagon
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Quote:
Originally posted by Chewy-WRX

The comps will be powered by a RF Punch 301s or 201s.
I think these amps have a built-in crossover, so you're set. No need for bassblockers or fmods. Just set to high-pass at about 80hz
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Old 03-03-2004, 02:17 AM   #17
the suicidal eggroll
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Yeah just set the HP filter on the amp to ~80hz and you'll be fine. Bass blockers are only useful if you don't feel comfortable putting a cap in series with the speaker wire yourself, your amp doesn't have a HP filter, and your headunit doesn't have a HP filter.
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Old 03-03-2004, 02:36 AM   #18
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yea i was gonna say...my head unit has different transfer functions for the output to the front speakers..i currently have them set at 200 HZ+ so i dont get any bass out of em..
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Old 03-03-2004, 03:51 AM   #19
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I'm pretty sure he has the oem deck
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Old 03-03-2004, 08:32 AM   #20
Chewy-WRX
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Much thanks again everyone.

These specific speakers go down to 40hz... so is there a need to blocker any bass? Isn't 40hz mid-range? I thought 20hz is bass.
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Old 03-03-2004, 09:06 AM   #21
redwagon
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Heheheh. The specs always say they go real low. In truth, most 6.5" woofers you find in budget comp sets are very inefficient at low frequencies as they don't have the motor structure or suspension to handle much excursion. They make sound, but volume is way down. In the effort to produce low bass the midrange is muddied. The power handling of the speaker is also greatly reduced. It takes much more excursion to hit the low notes and once it's all used up the volume can up no further. Not only that, but the woofer cone is so busy bouncing back and forth between the plates it hasn't much hope of reproducing the midrange at the same time. Relieve the woofer of sub bass duties and the midrange sounds much sharper and cleaner. This is why people install dedicated midbass drivers.
Many comp sets will take well over their rated power if crossed at 80 or 90hz because you are pushing the thermal limits while skirting the mechanical limits.
A subwoofer does the job of playing the bottom two octaves so much better since it's cone diameter is much closer to the wavelengths it's reproducing. Let the sub play as high as you can get away with before you can tell it's in the trunk and only ask the comps to play down to that freq.

Typical definition is:
up to 80hz, sub bass
80hz to 320hz, midbass
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