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Old 03-05-2004, 12:33 PM   #1
othon
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big things coming...

Default WRX valve train!!??

Okay I just got a new 04 WRX wagon and have had it for about 2 1/2 months now and have about 3188 miles on it.

I fallowed the Subaru guide line rules for braking in the car, but i added a little change to it my self, because of all the talk on how to brake in the car from so many people. [Racers and normal drivers alike.] ((But please keep in mind that i have not abused the car or plan on it!))

Around 500 miles I begin to slowly add more RPM's during the driving fluctuation that your supposed to do during the brake in when driving long times on the FWY or roads.
The highest I ever went in RPM's was 4500 -4650 RPM's while maintaining a 3000 RPM average while driving. Then as I started to reach 1000 miles I started to hit 5000 RPM every so often and still maintain the fluctuation range while driving on the road or free way.

Now after the brake in time of 1000, I started to slowly and more often reach up to 5000 RPM during accelerations from slow speeds and some times very frequently from a stop.
and have done so from the time of 1000 miles to current which i said earlier is now 3188 miles on OD, which brings me to my point.

Ive been listening to the car ((which is stock minus the intake silencer removal)) and have started to hear the valve train to become very noisy and during acceleration and under load while driving I also hear a faint sound of clanking or knocking coming through the fire wall.
Now I've called Irvine Subaru and they have told me some thing that I can add to the long list of what to do and not to do for brake in of your Subaru.

((( These are guide lines supposedly set and recommended by Japanese Subaru engineers. )))

1) maintain the brake in cycle up to 7000 miles.

2) Do not go over 4000 RPMs

3) maintain a good fluctuations in RPM's while driving

4) let the car warm up to the cold point on the thermostat before driving Iím both warm and cold weather

5) Do not use synthetic oil till you have reached 15000 miles

a) Hereís some other info they added to the list also.
1) The car will begin to have a ruff idle after time which is normal for Subaru.

2) The car might and is normal to consume up to 1 quart of oil every 1000 miles. ((( LAME!! ))

3) the valve train will become very noisy after time.
((( dose that mean after 2000 miles? )))

Okay so I have started to stay under 4000 RPM's and been babying the car again like I was back when under 500 miles.

Hereís the big question now.

"dose any one or has anyone heard or hear the valve train of there car being very noisy and dose it worry you or have you hade to have it dealt with at a dealer?"

If you are noticing this or experiencing load noise please add you comments because this is bugging the hell out of me.


Thanks guys and girls

Paul
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Old 03-05-2004, 03:58 PM   #2
othon
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bump???
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Old 03-05-2004, 07:55 PM   #3
rexaroo
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That is truly one of the most hilarious things I've ever read! If Irvine told you that, I would get as far away from those guys as you possibly can. They sound like a bunch of Subie charlatans to me.

First, you do NOT have to maintain the break-in cycle for 7000 miles. You bought this car to enjoy driving it, right? My advice is for you to get it out there on a good winding road ASAP, open it up and have a little fun. You are plenty broken in enough already, especially having used conventional dino the whole time.

Also, you can definitely switch over to Mobil 1 10W30 any time now and not worry about a thing. I switched mine at 640 miles and the engine runs like a Swiss watch--makes virtually no valve noise (now at 19K mi.), hardly uses any oil between changes and idles smooth as a contented kitten (although some owners do experience a lumpy idle at times.) For who knows what reason, those guys at Irvine are feeding you a huge pile of mis-informed bullpucky. I'd disregard everything they've told you--find another dealer and for pete's sake get out there and enjoy one of the most fun cars ever put on the road!
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Old 03-05-2004, 08:20 PM   #4
othon
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Thanks for the uplifting.

But hereís a side note.

I last had a 02 2.5 RS which was driven up from san Diego to Costa Mesa Cali by some kid that worked for the dealer ship.
He had put about 120 miles on the car before it was mine to drive off the lot with.

So after I get the car in my hands I started out with the brake in period and waited, then the time comes and I drive it and have some fun (( not beating up ))

Then here comes 32,000 miles and a drive back from San Francisco, and I open up the hood and see the whole back of the trans and bottom of the air box covered in oil. I start the car and the thing has all kinds of blow by from the return lines into the air box.

I take it in and low and behold I have 40% leak down past the rings. 2 weeks later, and I get a whole new short block.

(( Oh and some oil eating along the way before this happened. ))

So any ways I love these cars, but there not liking me so Iím a little nervous with them and take them with a grain of salt and kind of tring to find the holy grail of brake in usage for these things.

Can yah blame me after that?


Later
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Old 03-06-2004, 02:19 AM   #5
Uncle Scotty
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If you drive it like grandma it may do the same thing....it may never break in properly.
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Old 03-06-2004, 10:19 AM   #6
othon
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Thumbs up

huh?? thats some thing to keep in mind..
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Old 03-06-2004, 12:54 PM   #7
rexaroo
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Uncle Scotty is right. Break the car in, sure, but don't worry about *breaking* it. WReXs are tough little beasties. They have a reputation for being very robust, so driving it in a *spirited* fashion won't hurt it a bit. After all, having an enjoyable time on the road--safely of course (and without jeopardizing your license)-- is the whole point of owning it, is it not?

Quote:
"dose any one or has anyone heard or hear the valve train of there car being very noisy and dose it worry you or have you hade to have it dealt with at a dealer?"
There is a Subie technical bulletin about valve train noise, but it's mostly regarding 2.5 non-turbo engines and states the noise should go away when the car is fully warmed up. They say this is normal because of the way the engine is designed.
This problem is much less prevalent in the WRX--you should never hear more than a slight ticking on start-up and that should go away quickly. Maybe you are hearing more noise because of the removed intake silencer. If it bothers you, wouldn't hurt to have the valve train checked out under warranty for peace of mind (but not at Irvine! )

Also, I wouldn't let the car idle too much on start-up like they told you--just let it warm up a minute (or two if the weather is cold) then drive off at an easy pace for a few blocks.
Keep the revs below 3000 until you are sure the engine is warmed up. Hope this helps.
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Old 03-09-2004, 08:58 PM   #8
dronchi
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I have MY04 WRX Wagon that I got about 3 months ago. It has almost 6K miles. However the problem I'm about to describe has happened since 1500 miles.

I hear a ticking/clanking noise coming from the engine under heavy load and only under heavy load. It seems to happen at high RPM, but also seems to happen when I switch gears and there is high load on the engine.

I would take it to the dealer, but I can't always get it to happen. Sometimes I think that it's some loose metal plate or exhaust component, but I can't help worrying that it might be my valve train or some engine component that is being damaged.
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Old 03-09-2004, 09:52 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally posted by dronchi
I have MY04 WRX Wagon that I got about 3 months ago. It has almost 6K miles. However the problem I'm about to describe has happened since 1500 miles.

I hear a ticking/clanking noise coming from the engine under heavy load and only under heavy load. It seems to happen at high RPM, but also seems to happen when I switch gears and there is high load on the engine.

I would take it to the dealer, but I can't always get it to happen. Sometimes I think that it's some loose metal plate or exhaust component, but I can't help worrying that it might be my valve train or some engine component that is being damaged.
Does it sound like BB's bouncing around in a tin can?
If so, that's bad.
Do you use premium 91 or higher octane fuel? If not, DO.
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Old 03-09-2004, 11:02 PM   #10
othon
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It sounds alittle like BB's rolling around under load when im leaving a dead stop or stop sign. But not in a tin can.

yes im using 91
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Old 03-14-2004, 11:09 AM   #11
othon
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Quote:
Originally posted by Uncle Scotty
Does it sound like BB's bouncing around in a tin can?
If so, that's bad.
Do you use premium 91 or higher octane fuel? If not, DO.

sorry that was for "dronchi"
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Old 03-15-2004, 03:49 PM   #12
armand1
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Quote:
Originally posted by othon
Around 500 miles I begin to slowly add more RPM's during the driving fluctuation that your supposed to do during the brake in when driving long times on the FWY or roads.
The highest I ever went in RPM's was 4500 -4650 RPM's while maintaining a 3000 RPM average while driving. Then as I started to reach 1000 miles I started to hit 5000 RPM every so often and still maintain the fluctuation range while driving on the road or free way.
I would have gone (and did go) up to redline a few times by the 700 mile mark.
Uncle Scotty is exactly right -- seems like you are babying the car too much. As other have noted, it is a good idea to have the oil warmed up before you really rev the engine -- that shouldn't take more than 10 minutes or so.
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Old 03-15-2004, 04:28 PM   #13
othon
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Quote:
Originally posted by armand1
I would have gone (and did go) up to redline a few times by the 700 mile mark.
Uncle Scotty is exactly right -- seems like you are babying the car too much. As other have noted, it is a good idea to have the oil warmed up before you really rev the engine -- that shouldn't take more than 10 minutes or so.

Yah I guess im babying the car to a degree but there are time when ill wack the throttle getting on the HWY or when on a nice twisty but the noise I hear when I listen very closely really concerns me. Yet it dose seem to have good days and bad so im living with it till some thing brake or I get some sort of definitive answer, or explanation.
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