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Old 03-08-2006, 06:15 PM   #26
Fuchs
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This is where I lose any credit I may have. I cant seem to find what it looks like...or the actual positioning..

Too many wires and crap.. ANyone have a page out of a Service Manual they could email me?
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Old 03-08-2006, 06:30 PM   #27
Fuchs
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found it
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Old 01-04-2007, 09:33 PM   #28
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I bought driver side cam position sensor. 80$$$ prices have gone up. Hopefully this will fix my CEL issue.
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Old 09-22-2007, 07:39 PM   #29
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Resurrecting from the dead

Friends 05 STI is getting this CEL, he didn't tell me which code it was, but told me when he had it scanned, it was the Camshaft Sensor failing

His car is also burning some oil

Recommendations?
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Old 09-22-2007, 11:33 PM   #30
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change the cam sensor and for the oil, get a leak down test
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Old 09-27-2007, 12:03 AM   #31
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New to subies.

Does anybody have a write up or picture location of where the Camshaft position sensor is?
Ive been throwing this code on an off at WOT.

Thanks in advance.
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Old 09-27-2007, 09:22 AM   #32
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it is on the upper, outboard corner of the drivers side head
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Old 09-28-2007, 02:44 AM   #33
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same problem here. The code came on when i was driving and i turned on the AC while being of gas, cars rpms went way down and the light came on. This is a second time this happens. The battery that is on the car barely holds charge, in the morning i have 10.2 volts. Could that be a problem? Mods done to the car: TBE with stage 2 reflash and forge 100% recirc bpv. Any help will be appreciated.
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Old 10-21-2007, 04:01 AM   #34
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There seems to be several different experiences with the PO340 CEL...all of the experiences seem to have a followers...I've heard of:
1) Going off after tapping the limiter
2) WOT (commonly in 2nd but it seems to vary)
3) My experience: happens at the point of engine jerk...as if the wires were too short and pulled the sensor loose...sometimes WOT, sometimes just the engine shifting around at low rpms in too high of a gear...
-these three seem to have no ill (i.e. performance) effects
4)Stalling
5)trouble getting engine started
6)smoke and engine dying even at highway speeds (scary)

That's the thing...while I am glad I don't have these problems, at least these problems make sense...why would we throw this code...new or old sensor...under so many different circumstances and yet still no performance trouble? I havn't thrown this code in a couple months now...but it weighs on my mind...I'll admit it...i'm looking for the RIGHT answer but this is so reminiscent of the tranny fluid debate that I fear that insight may not come...

Sorry but...that's months and months, codes and codes....of release. Hope I'm not the only one overthinking this
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Old 11-30-2007, 10:45 PM   #35
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and back from the dead again...

I am having this issue with a swap I did. The swap was a complete STi block into a wrx. I tapped the bracket to hold the sensor per elementtuning's directions. I have even tried a known good sensor from my own car but it still happens.
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Old 03-25-2008, 10:28 AM   #36
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Exclamation Another P0340 issue....

I'm not a factory 2.0L Turbo driver, in fact I'm running a completely stock '96 Impreza Outback. Nice.
Anyway, I've had trouble starting my car 2 times, both when the car was 'warm' ...had been driving, and then only off for 10-15 mins. In both cases it came back to life after cooling down, and fired instantly and ran fine ...but it did throw the P0340 code. I reset it the first time, and a couple days later it happened again.
The local shop up here said they'd start by replacing the crank and cam sensors and see how that did. Does this make sense given the symptoms?

I've located the cam sensor and plan to check continuity there. Is there a way to check it while running with an oscilloscope? Will the car start with it disconnected? Can it be disconnected while running? Do I need to strip back the wires and tap in that way?

Where is the crank sensor located? I haven't looked for it yet, but it sounded like it was easily accessible as well. Is it possible to scope that signal?


Thanks in advance for any suggestions!
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Old 03-25-2008, 10:57 AM   #37
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Default Quick update....

Looks like the impedance of the CPS is about 2,000 Ohms. I assume this style is not hall effect but simply a coil? Does 2K Ohms sound correct?

After looking again I do see a sensor right at the front of the crankshaft, so I assume this is the crank position sensor. Behind that it looks like there is another sensor ...is that for oil temperature or pressure? Looks like there is some oil in that area too, but it's an old Subaru, so there's oil a lot of places....

If I get some feedback on scoping the 2 signals I'll try that next. Hoping the car runs 'til I get this taken care of!
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Old 03-25-2008, 12:07 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greencar View Post
The local shop up here said they'd start by replacing the crank and cam sensors and see how that did. Does this make sense given the symptoms?
If you have a two channel scope, put one probe on the cam sensor and the other on the crank.

The ECU triggers P0340 based on several abnormality judgements. This isn't exactly for your engine, but it will give you an idea of what you're looking at (Search for P0340 in the document):

http://www.northursalia.com/modifica...C_Criteria.pdf

You may only read ground, not enough pulses, or pulses with a lot of extra garbage. If you're seeing excess electrical noise you may not have a properly grounded shield on the wiring harness, or the cam sensor is bad/dirty/etc. The ECU can mistakenly identify noise as a pulse or series of pulses.

I don't suggest letting the shop start replacing sensors yet--it could be a belt problem.

Good luck.
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Old 03-25-2008, 02:02 PM   #39
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Thanks for the feedback. There are only two judgements listed in the document, and only one could be triggered with the engine turning over and not running, which is my situation. They list 'camshaft angle signal' as 'none' for this judgement to be made. Is that saying simply there is no signal coming from the camshaft sensor? Or is the angle signal something that relies on computation or other data (like crankshaft position)?

I have a 2 channel scope, but am not sure how I should access the signals. Unplug connectors and attach to the connector ...or strip back the wire with the sensor connected?

If there is 'no angle signal' present will it cause the car to not start or just trigger the MIL? I have both symptoms....
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Old 03-25-2008, 02:30 PM   #40
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If either the crank or cam sensor stop giving feedback the car will not start. That is correct.

Try putting some thin, short pieces of wire inside the wire harness connectors. Hopefully the plug will still connect to the sensor with the added width. That might be enough to get the scope probes on. The other way would be to get the signals from the ECU wire harness connectors if you have a pin-out diagram to follow.

Again, that document link is for a 2004 WRX so your ECU may judge abnormalities a little different. From what it sounds like--chances are if the car is not cranking over your cam sensor is not providing any viable feedback.
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Old 03-25-2008, 02:40 PM   #41
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My car was starting fine everytime before but when a local tuner ran a diagnostic and probe on my car before agreeing to tuning, P0340 came up. He instructed me to replace the cam sensor which I did along with a ECU reset. With the new sensor the car has trouble starting 90% of the time and I find myself even more frustrated as my car is now worse with the new sensor in. I left the car running today and unplugged and replugged it to see if it would make a difference and the car runs a lot worse w/o it connected. I by no means consider myself a mechanic but it was one bolt and plug to swap it. How could I have possibly messed this up?
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Old 03-27-2008, 02:00 PM   #42
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Default update....

Well I took it into the shop and we were unable to duplicate the no start condition. The guys there who have serviced many Subaru's old and new said they had never seen a CPS failure (on a Subaru) and were hesitant to replace it without having more to go on. They checked all harness connections and cleaned 'em up ...no charge. The thought was that given the symptoms perhaps it was a moisture problem (wet connections - based on their past experience). Since I'm in the middle of the spring thaw I have been driving through some deep puddles lately - all sounded plausible. No more problems ...fingers crossed. If I have any dry no-start problems I'll have the scope out for sure!

Thanks for all the advice!
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Old 05-20-2008, 01:23 PM   #43
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Default update....

Well, the no start problem still exists ...and comes every couple weeks. Plenty of times it's on dry days, so I guess I'm not onto the fix yet. I generally just need to try cranking it several times over the course of 5 or so minutes and it eventually starts.

I was able to get a scope on the output of the sensor. It appears to be providing a 4 segment repeating pulse stream. The sequence goes 1-2-1-3... and so on. Visually, something like this:

--|--||--|--|||--|--||--|--|||--....

The signal looks clean, and each pulse is about 15V peak-to-peak in amplitude.

I have not been able to get a scope on it in the no-start scenario, but I'm assuming it's not the sensor based on the simple design.

What I'd like to do is try to bypass the wiring harness, and run new wires from the sensor back to the ECU directly. My thought is that there is a signal integrity issue caused by the existing wiring. Anyone know where the ECU is in a '96 and where to find a pinout for the sensors?

If I try to start the car with the CPS disconnected, the result is exactly like the no-start problem with it connected. The P0340 code gets set and the car won't fire. Interestingly, if the car is running and I disconnect the sensor, the car shuts down but no code is set.
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Old 11-12-2008, 08:52 AM   #44
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bringing back this thread for those that still have the problem...

it is the cam belt tensioner pulley, when it wears it starts to lose tension on the belt causing it to wobble and trigger the cel. new tensioner and wallah...fixed :-)
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Old 02-01-2009, 10:32 PM   #45
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One more time...

Would a lightweight flywheel cause this?
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Old 02-01-2009, 11:20 PM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thewerxracing View Post
One more time...

Would a lightweight flywheel cause this?
cause what??

a p0340??

no


cause random misfire cEL's??

yes
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Old 02-02-2009, 04:34 PM   #47
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Yeah, thats what I figured Scotty.

So would anything internally damaged cause this? The car is as strong as it always is, just the occasional p0340 at WOT.
This just started happening after a new throw-out bearing and Rear Separator plate was installed. Hmmm...

Oh, and Mods:
TBE
UP
Turbo Inlet/TXS TMIC, 38mm EWG, Spec Street Flywheel
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Old 02-09-2009, 11:17 PM   #48
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Any more thoughts?
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Old 02-09-2009, 11:21 PM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thewerxracing View Post
Any more thoughts?
Did you ever swap a new cam sensor in there?
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Old 02-10-2009, 12:40 AM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sandkicker View Post
no UD pulley...

and it only come on when WOT in 2nd gear somewhere above 6000 RPMS... fishy

What exactly does this sensor do? When it fails is the engine likely to misfire or anything?
If you dont know yet the cam position sensor is an input to the ecu that is used to calculate ignition timing. Cam and crank position sensors took the job of the old distributor triggering devices.
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