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Old 03-02-2006, 01:53 PM   #76
xenonk
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ButtDyno
Different upgrade... no?
I guess it would different since it's vented vs. non... but doesnt the new outbacks have vented rotors now? Afterall, we are referring to 2000+ MY cars..
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Old 03-02-2006, 02:34 PM   #77
ButtDyno
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xenonk
I guess it would different since it's vented vs. non... but doesnt the new outbacks have vented rotors now? Afterall, we are referring to 2000+ MY cars..
I'm pretty sure it's only the LGT that has the vented ones, or the old turbo Legacy. The "2003 Outback" rotors I bought from Stoptech were definitely non-vented.

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Old 03-09-2006, 06:15 PM   #78
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No one mentioned it so I thought I might add it, IIRC for 04+ wrx owners you need to use 03 or older pads, I remember some of the members having trouble with the stock size pads some one elaborate on this....
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Old 03-12-2006, 10:38 PM   #79
ALaDDiN
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I am performing the H6 upgrade on my 2002 sedan. I was reading over the "How to . ." on scoobymods.com and had a quick question regarding the dust plate. I am assuming it would be a lot easier to just remove the dust plate as opposed to bending/moving it to make the bigger rotor fit. However, is there a negative effect that comes along with completely removing the dust plate and running withtout it? Is it just that I will experience more than usual brake dust in the back, or will it be something bigger than that?
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Old 03-13-2006, 06:18 AM   #80
Jard
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xplane
No one mentioned it so I thought I might add it, IIRC for 04+ wrx owners you need to use 03 or older pads, I remember some of the members having trouble with the stock size pads some one elaborate on this....
You are right.

You have to use 02-03 rear pads with the bigger H6 bracket.

As for the dust shield. It's pretty helpful if you drill out the spot welds before taking a hammer to the thing. They came off very easy on ShannonO's wagon after being drilled.

I'm not sure of all the negative effects of taking off the dust shield, but it's there more to protect the brake shoes and the housing from dust.
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Old 03-13-2006, 07:07 AM   #81
BryanH
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I have been running around with no dust shield on mine for the last 30,000 or so and haven't noticed any ill effects. I also hit gravel roads several times a week so if stuff was going to get up in there I think it would have happened by now.

And I had them apart this weekend to change all the pads and rotors, grease the pins, grease the slides, and all that normal sort of stuff that should be done on a brake job if you want your brakes to last.
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Old 03-13-2006, 12:36 PM   #82
ALaDDiN
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Awesome, thanks for all the help. Would any of you specialists be willing to help a newbie car half-azz mechanic, such as myself, with a brake job of this caliber?
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Old 03-13-2006, 02:28 PM   #83
xcntrk75
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I'm in MoCo and just did the H6, would be willing to help for a BEER. Honestly, it's a total piece of cake... Unless you're changing calipers and/or lines, it will take you longer to get the car up on jackstands then to swap out the rotors & pads...

PS: Rubber mallet the dust shield. Packs enough power to bend it accordingly however rubber surface therefore leaves no scaring.
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Old 03-13-2006, 06:17 PM   #84
ALaDDiN
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Thats the problemo . . I am doing oem pads(suggest something better if you want), hawk hps pads, ss lines, motul fluid and the h6 upgrade. From what I know, this should be a PiTA. Especially because I dont have a garage of any sort. I MiGHT be able to use a friends lift for 2hours max . . but no garage.
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Old 03-13-2006, 09:23 PM   #85
ButtDyno
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ALaDDiN
Thats the problemo . . I am doing oem pads(suggest something better if you want), hawk hps pads, ss lines, motul fluid and the h6 upgrade. From what I know, this should be a PiTA. Especially because I dont have a garage of any sort. I MiGHT be able to use a friends lift for 2hours max . . but no garage.
The lines are the biggest PITA of that group. You could do everything else first, and then do the lines when you have access to a garage/driveway/whatever. Plus you'll want another person for the lines to help you bleed the brakes when you're done.

john
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Old 03-14-2006, 12:05 AM   #86
ALaDDiN
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I was just reading up on the Hawk HPS brake pads break in process and I am wondering what is the best way to go about doing this. Logically speaking, I am NoT going to be able to find an open highway/road to do all these random brake stops. How important will it be to perform this. Also, on the box it states I must replace fluid when changing the pads. Is this correct? Sorry to sound like SUCH a newbie, but I am JUST THAT !
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Old 03-14-2006, 08:12 AM   #87
xcntrk75
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You have to bed the pads in if you want them to perform optimally, especially considering these are a performance pad. I hear ya about getting to the highway as I live in the same area as you, but it needs to be done. Best approach is plan to complete your brake work at an hour when traffic is light (before afternoon rush hour). Be careful to travel to the highway by using as little brake as possible. Use your gears to downshift and a little e-brake to hold you still. The key is that you do not want to come to a complete stop while braking nor sit stationary with the brakes applied, until after you complete the bedding process. Once on the highway, follow the bedding instructions.
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Old 03-14-2006, 09:27 AM   #88
ButtDyno
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ALaDDiN
I was just reading up on the Hawk HPS brake pads break in process and I am wondering what is the best way to go about doing this. Logically speaking, I am NoT going to be able to find an open highway/road to do all these random brake stops. How important will it be to perform this. Also, on the box it states I must replace fluid when changing the pads. Is this correct? Sorry to sound like SUCH a newbie, but I am JUST THAT !
You just need to do it at 3 AM

Then your options open up. You shouldn't need to hit more than about 60 mph, which you should be able to do on a 45/50 mph road without raising any eyebrows.

"replace fluid when changing the pads"... Never heard that one. Make sure that when your new, full-depth pads are in, your master cylinder is OK, but that's all I can think of.

john
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Old 03-14-2006, 09:49 AM   #89
BryanH
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yeah, it actually does say something like that on the box...my fluid was fairly fresh so I ignored it. The only thing I can think of it that I wouldn't want to put pads on and then go bleeding them soon after and get fluid all over them....just a thought????
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Old 03-14-2006, 11:15 PM   #90
ALaDDiN
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My front and rear brake parts are on the way
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Old 03-15-2006, 09:27 AM   #91
xcntrk75
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Man I ordered the stainless steel line and speed-bleed combo from Oakos, bleeding the brakes took like 5 minutes per wheel and I flushed the whole system for some ATE super-blue. Didn't spill a drop.. Speed-bleeders rock!
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Old 03-15-2006, 09:59 AM   #92
Jard
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When we changed Shannon's pads, the brakes had been recently bled.

We got everything all put back together and then found brake fluid all over the floor. Her old pads were so worn that when we pushed all the calipers out, it forced fluid out the top of the reservoir.
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Old 03-15-2006, 11:14 AM   #93
Siper2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ButtDyno
You just need to do it at 3 AM

Then your options open up. You shouldn't need to hit more than about 60 mph, which you should be able to do on a 45/50 mph road without raising any eyebrows.

Right. Or, there's bound to be a decent back road kind of stretch, somewhere, you can use.

Just find a quiet time, do your thing. If you get pulled over, explain yourself. Shouldn't be an issue. If the cop says you're being unsafe, tell him/her it'd be a hell of a lot less safe if you didn't.

=S2=
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Old 03-15-2006, 11:41 AM   #94
xcntrk75
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Siper2
...there's bound to be a decent back road kind of stretch, somewhere, you can use.

Ha… says the guy from PA…

Owning a fast car and living in this area is a complete paradox… I sometimes have to drive for an hour just to find enough open road to do some mild boost tuning where there’s not bumper-to-bumper traffic. It sucks living here….
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Old 03-16-2006, 04:59 PM   #95
xplane
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Unabomber, you should place this in your How to, I think i would clear things up a little, and reduce the headache for those attempting to do this mod last minute realizing that they need older pads.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jard
You are right.

You have to use 02-03 rear pads with the bigger H6 bracket.

As for the dust shield. It's pretty helpful if you drill out the spot welds before taking a hammer to the thing. They came off very easy on ShannonO's wagon after being drilled.

I'm not sure of all the negative effects of taking off the dust shield, but it's there more to protect the brake shoes and the housing from dust.
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Old 03-16-2006, 05:08 PM   #96
Jard
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Drill the spot welds only if you want to take the dust shields completely off. There's no reason to drill if you are just bending them back.
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Old 02-14-2008, 09:58 PM   #97
litebrite2001
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dumb question... removed

Last edited by litebrite2001; 02-14-2008 at 10:09 PM.
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Old 02-15-2008, 09:44 AM   #98
ctimpreza
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Can this be done on a gc impreza? With the same parts listed by op?
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Old 02-15-2008, 09:47 AM   #99
Jard
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ctimpreza View Post
Can this be done on a gc impreza? With the same parts listed by op?
Sure, but you are going to throw the brake balance way off if you are still on stock front GC brakes.
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Old 02-15-2008, 11:45 AM   #100
AcquaCow
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I'm not sure he would...

If I can run H6's with 4-pots up front, which already transfer brake bias to the rear due to less front brake torque...

Running the H6 rears with RS front calipers shouldn't really upset it that much at all.

Ideally ctimpreza should get wrx rotors for the front as well.

-- Dave
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