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Old 04-03-2004, 08:53 PM   #26
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rlavalle - from the pics, the disc on the 2-piece rotors will last another 5 track days or so before you'll need to replace them.

The green->white/off means that it was up to operating temperature.

The red->white means that it was reaching it's upper heat range. Once all of the thermal indicator is gone it means that the disc needs to be replaced. (this still has a large margin of safety).

Generally speaking, when the right pad for the application is chosen, the rotors should not reach & surpass the upper limit. The thermal indicators show that the PF97 compound is not up to the job as being the friction material to be used on that specific style of track you were on. (ie: the pads reached 1100C+ as it was leaving residue on the rotor. Good thing you have the slotted version!) You'll need pads that'll work above the 1100C temps so that you won't cook the rotors.

On a 4wd/AWD car, it's generally a better idea to match the pad compounds F&R. This will better use the drivetrain as a mechanism for increasing braking capacity.

The Ferodo DS3000's or the Pagid Grey's.
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Last edited by iON Performance Inc; 04-03-2004 at 09:10 PM.
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Old 04-04-2004, 04:37 AM   #27
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The more I hear, the better I feel about these rotors lasting for another handful of track days. I was probably a bit paranoid about the heat stress cracks.

From the Performance Friction web site, it looks like the 97 compound is right where I want to be. I measured them after swapping back to stock pads... 2 days of track time only caused 1mm of wear! In contrast, Carbotech Panther XPs wore 3mm in the same time.

From physics class, I understand that braking turns kinetic energy into heat energy... lots of heat. So it would seem to me that braking from 150 to 60mph would produce the same amount of heat, regardless of the pad used.

Here's Performance Friction's verbiage on their 97 compound pad:
Quote:
97 Compound

This compound was designed as an all-purpose pad where excellent controllability was a priority over ultimate stopping power. Due to its excellent modulation characteristics, this pad has proved very popular with race schools, rallying, and as a rear pad for applications such as touring cars. 97 has the lowest wear of all compounds, typically providing two to three times more life expectancy than competitors. This compound can also dramatically extend disc life.

97 is a medium torque race compound and as a result can provide reduced brake temperatures in situations where poor cooling can result in premature disc failure. 97 has the flattest torque curve of all the Performance Friction compounds. Effective from 167°F and reach 2000°F (75°C, reach 1100°C), 97 uses Performance Friction’s unique lubrication package that maintains a minimal transfer layer on the disc to help prevent brake judder and provide excellent release properties, therefore reducing overall drag in the brake system. 97 is extremely easy on the discs with very low wear.

97 is now being used in Bondurant, Derek Daley, Dale Jarrett Driving Adventure, Panoz, Mid Ohio, and Jim Russell racing schools because of it's long wear vs. performance vs. control and modulation.
I'll report back on how long these rotors last.

Thanks!
Russ
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Old 04-05-2004, 02:14 PM   #28
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rlavalle - in braking, kinetic energy turns into heat energy, noise, etc so it's not a 100% conversion to heat.

Frictional co-efficent changes as the temperature varies on the pad.

The description on PF's website is slightly vague, you need to know what the maximum stable sustainable temperature is for the pad. It may be able to peak to 1100C for short durations, however that's for short durations. What's more critical to know is what the maximum stable temps are to determine if the pad is within efficient operating range.
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Old 04-20-2004, 11:46 AM   #29
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So how many track days I can expect to get out of these rotors and DS3000s? I know my fronts at the last track (OEM with DS2500) were out of scale and rears were at over 700F.
Which are better for my application? Plain or slotted?

Last edited by RafalW; 04-20-2004 at 11:55 AM.
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Old 04-22-2004, 12:22 PM   #30
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RafalW - If they're properly broken in, they will last as long if not slightly longer then your stock rotors. Note that the DS3000 pad is a harsher pad vs. the DS2500's, so depending on which part of the operating temperature curve you're on for the pad, the friction will also help determine the wear.

Generally for the track, we recommend slotted since it will expose a fresh layer of pad to maximize efficiency.
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Old 06-14-2004, 02:15 PM   #31
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bumping for cool pics
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Old 06-15-2004, 09:13 AM   #32
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Default Re: iON/KVR performance 2-pieces anodize aluminum hat brake rotor (real life PICS)

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Originally posted by JDM addict

Driving impression: The front end of the car feels lighter on its feet, initial turn in is better. Initial acceleration feels more explosive. Acceleration in general is a little better thru the whole power band.


ADDICT
Nothing to contribute -
I just find it amusing that for a brake related review, you're talking about acceleration and handling, not braking performance.
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Old 06-15-2004, 04:22 PM   #33
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He didn't ask a question.
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Old 06-15-2004, 07:07 PM   #34
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Old 06-23-2004, 08:51 PM   #35
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For Racing Pourposes whats THE BEST pad for these rotors?
I use on my STI the Panther XP9 and they last a race. But my OEM rotors get cooked and cristaliezd. I think I need a pad that stands more heat. Any sugestions?
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Old 06-23-2004, 08:55 PM   #36
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Also..my brake pedal feels spongy. I use MOTUL 600.
In the straights y hit 120mph and brake in the 500 ft range and still sometimes I dont make the corner. Before braking I have to hot the pedal a few times or else I wont have a solid pedal it will go to the floor completly. Is this a problem with the booster? or the pad? or the rotors? HELP! IM LOOSONG 3 SECONDS a lap in the braking zones.!!!!!!
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Old 06-23-2004, 09:53 PM   #37
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You're getting pad knockback from the previous turn. New pads or fluid won't help that at all. The 05's have a redesigned wheel bearing to address just this issue. Nobody knows yet what a retrofit would entail however.
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Old 06-25-2004, 10:33 AM   #38
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Whats pad knockback>?
Can this 05 wheel bearing fit the 04 sti?
what exactly does this wheel bearong do?
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Old 06-26-2004, 05:51 PM   #39
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bump
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Old 07-06-2004, 01:34 AM   #40
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.....

Last edited by JDM addict; 08-11-2004 at 01:15 AM.
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Old 07-07-2004, 01:21 AM   #41
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FLEMON - You may want to consider the Ferodo DS3000 or DS3000+ These are excellent track pads. For the street the Ferodo DS2500 would be the pad of choice to use with our rotors

FYI, we also have an STi specific SS brake line available. If you're on the stock rubber lines; this will take away some of the "sponginess"

JDM addict - Lookin' good Jeff still waiting to hear back from you for the rears
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Old 07-15-2004, 01:17 PM   #42
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just want to bump the thread
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Old 07-21-2004, 04:02 AM   #43
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ADDICT- all your posts about these rotors coupled with my want for weight savings is tempting me to get them. :-( I'm just wondering how well they work with my prodrive brakes
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Old 07-21-2004, 01:03 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by petawabit
ADDICT- all your posts about these rotors coupled with my want for weight savings is tempting me to get them. :-( I'm just wondering how well they work with my prodrive brakes
then get them, you know you want them
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Old 07-26-2004, 03:26 AM   #45
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petawabit - Are your Prodrive brakes utilizing the same STi/Brembo sized/dimension rotor? If so, they will work. If not, then then won't.
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Old 07-26-2004, 01:55 PM   #46
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Are the slotted same weight savings same as the plain one's..?
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Old 07-26-2004, 10:29 PM   #47
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FLEMON - the plains have the least weight savings; however it is still 6lb/rotor less in weight. The slotted will be several ounces lighter, and the lightest would be the x-drilled versions.
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Old 07-30-2004, 12:06 PM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iON Performance Inc
FLEMON - the plains have the least weight savings; however it is still 6lb/rotor less in weight. The slotted will be several ounces lighter, and the lightest would be the x-drilled versions.
Ok so its 32pounds for all 4 corners right?
How much is it for all 4 corners(slotted) with s/a to Puerto Rico?
And how much is it to replace them?
Isit the same price to replace the fronts and rears?
Are these rotors CarbotechXP9 friendly?

We have a race the 7 of August,do you have them on stock?

thanx
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Old 07-30-2004, 01:23 PM   #49
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FLEMON - It's ~32lbs for all for corners to have multi-piece rotors.
Please check your PM's for a price.
The rotors themselves when you need to replace it is ~$250US/rotor + shipping
No the rears are more expensive then the fronts since they are multi-piece
You will have to check the heat range of the CarbotechXP9's to see if they've got the correct temperature range for the track you're doing.
Generally, we can get them out in 3-5 days from the time payment is sent. Shipping will take ~3-4 business days. So it will be unlikely you'll get them by August 7th, unless you choose a more expensive shipping option (as we only have raw un-annodized hats available right now).
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Old 08-11-2004, 01:16 AM   #50
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updated pics with ultra rare JDM goodies


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