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Old 04-11-2015, 12:08 PM   #1
The Perfect Creature
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 300620
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Maine
Vehicle:
2010 WRX
Blue

Default Possible New Owner of a 2010 WRX

I am looking to get a WRB Blue 2010 Base WRX. Just over 60k miles.
I got in touch with the previous owner who traded it in and he advised me that he just did regular oil changes and had a power steering shaft replaced under warranty and it has new brakes and tires.
I looked under the maintenance section and noticed that at 60k a person wants to replace all fluids, and the spark plugs.

I plan to get a shop to perform a leakdown and a compression test before I buy it, I was given a quote of 1 hour for both services, does that seem correct?
It is all stock except for the intake, which is a K&N.
Dealer says they replaced a left rear caliper, and that they put new winter tires on it, non studded and they all match.
It passed a state inspection.
What else should I be looking at other then the compression and the leak down testing?
I gather that the leak down should be less then 10% and the compression should should around 130-160 in all cylinders with very little differences.

It seems to have plenty of power, and the turbo did not appear to whine or make any noises that I could tell of.
The clutch is a bit stiff, but did not appear to make any noises of any sort.
It is a 2010, so the engine bay is a little rough, and there are some rust spots but that is most cars these days in my climate.

I appreciate the responses.
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Old 04-12-2015, 09:33 AM   #2
The Perfect Creature
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 300620
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Maine
Vehicle:
2010 WRX
Blue

Default

For word back from the dealership, they have no issues with me having it throughly looked over.
If it all checks out, I'll post up photos and such.
If anyone has any gimmicks or quirks to look out for, let me know. I'll be sure to point them out.
So far I'm going to have compression test and if that's fine, have the turbo system checked for leaks. I'm going to have them look for the resivior moving while
Depressing the clutch to see if this one is affected by the broken welds.
I'll check for leaks in the trunk and I already know it has a spare and tools.
They changed the oil and filter but I'll be dumping that as soon as I can.

I plan to run some seafaom in the oil to clean everything up, will do the same for the gas and intake. Unless someone has a better alternative.
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Old 04-12-2015, 05:23 PM   #3
Fadetoblack909
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 386426
Join Date: Apr 2014
Chapter/Region: SCIC
Location: San Bernardino,CA
Vehicle:
2014 Wrx hatch
Black

Default

You seem to have everything planned so stick with that ....check all the bolts to see if they have been messed with so you might get an idea if it's been modded ..ditch the seam foam and just do the 60k Maintence and change all fluids and run good oil
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Old 04-12-2015, 05:54 PM   #4
The Perfect Creature
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 300620
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Maine
Vehicle:
2010 WRX
Blue

Default

I did look at the 60k maintainece thread and planned to do it next week after I bring it home.
If the welds are shot in the fire wall what would I be looking at a cost?
I know an engine rebuild is expected to be 2-3k.
I am hoping it checks out and has zero issues.
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Old 04-13-2015, 04:13 AM   #5
Fadetoblack909
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 386426
Join Date: Apr 2014
Chapter/Region: SCIC
Location: San Bernardino,CA
Vehicle:
2014 Wrx hatch
Black

Default

Read through this about the fire wall
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=2535257

For one guy it cost him 1,000+
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Old 04-13-2015, 07:28 AM   #6
JettyLife
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 406738
Join Date: Nov 2014
Chapter/Region: Tri-State
Location: Atlantic City, NJ
Vehicle:
2013 WRX
WR Blue

Default

That engine should be tuned for that intake.
If it is not tuned you run the risk of running lean and causing damage to the engine. It sounds like all it well judging by the tests, but I'd get an accessport and flash the car back to stock or at least flash the correct tune for the car.
Chances are if the previous owner had it tuned he set it back to stock, unmarried the tuner, and sold it.
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Old 04-13-2015, 08:57 AM   #7
dark hawk
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 393025
Join Date: Jun 2014
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: Cedar Rapids, IA
Vehicle:
2009 wrx Stage I
1977 dt250

Default

If the welds are shot and you don't have welding experiance do the "bolt method." If not I belive Perrin or some other company makes a reinforcement kit for it.
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Old 04-13-2015, 05:21 PM   #8
The Perfect Creature
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 300620
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Maine
Vehicle:
2010 WRX
Blue

Default

Clutch is not squeaky. A little hard to push, but from what I gather, normal.
The mechanic tested the compression and saw not noticeable issues so we left it at that.

I plan to change the fluids in the next few weeks.
Not sure how long it was on there or if it was even tuned.
K&N said it does not cause a lean condition. I'll be switching back to stock intake as soon as owner gives it to me.
I will be looking at getting an AP as soon as I can.

I did check to see if the resivior moved when the clutch depressed and it did not appear to do so.
I did however miss a few paint blemishes that are past clear coat. A little
Upset that they covered them up but why can you do....

On the plus side it does have brand new tires. Ha.

Overall I got an okay deal for what I traded in and how much negative equity I carried over.
I've always wanted a WRX and plan to modify it as time goes on.
First is the fluid change and spark plugs, then the AP and I'll go from there.

Appreciate the insight.
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Old 04-13-2015, 06:07 PM   #9
The Perfect Creature
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 300620
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Maine
Vehicle:
2010 WRX
Blue

Default

On second thought. I do have some squeezing that I didn't it catch before.
I'm going to put some grease on the shaft and see what happens.
If not. I'll just put some bolts in the weld spots like the others.
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Old 04-13-2015, 08:08 PM   #10
WRXfan4_10years
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 391043
Join Date: May 2014
Chapter/Region: SWIC
Location: New Mexico
Vehicle:
2011 WRX Hatch Prem.
OBP Stage 1 Protune

Default

I would say avoid a car that has been running with an intake untuned, but thats just me. I made sure I settled on one that had NEVER had any modifications, that way I didnt have to worry about whether it had run lean at any point in its life. There are always more options out there, and another thing to keep in mind is the 2011 is a significant upgrade over the '09-10 with the narrowbodies. The bodies, suspension, and wheels are all upgraded on the '11. That being said you could probably find pretty good deals on the narrowbodies so if thats what your going for then you have the best year to get a bargain on because its the year before significant changes. Best of luck.
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Old 04-13-2015, 09:11 PM   #11
The Perfect Creature
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 300620
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Maine
Vehicle:
2010 WRX
Blue

Default

I sprayed down the pivot points , rods and the springs with some white lithium grease. Seems to have cured the problem. I looked at the welds on the firewall and could not see any breaks so that's good.

I did have the engine checked out and they everything was running as it should be.
I'll be getting an AP in the next coming weeks.
I'll be tracking down a stock intake and running that.
I settled in a fair deal, and I liked this body style, personally. Always been a fan of the hawk eyes and where it is a bit narrower I feel it handles a little crisper.
I've looked the engine all over and there are zero bolts that are clean and cracked free from the initial set.
The intake is the only thing. Does look like it was cleaned, and lightly, very lightly oiled.
I'll be installing the factory intake as soon as I can.
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