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Old 07-28-2000, 04:17 AM   #1
Fusion
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Join Date: Nov 1999
Location: In the trash can to which peop
Vehicle:
2000 2.5RS Coupe
Silverthorne Metallic

Post What's the best motor oil?

I've recently been told that Lubro Moly is the best. Is this accurate? And what about oil filters, any special brands? I have a hookup for this stuff so cost is irrelevant.

Thanks

Haig
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Old 07-28-2000, 05:04 AM   #2
JGard
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01 Miata red

Post

I've always heard Mobil 1 synthetic is best... but my knowledge range in that department is limited.
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Old 07-28-2000, 05:19 AM   #3
BrianR
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Post

If cost is irrelevant then for the engine oil get redline and for the oil filter, puralator(sp??) would work fine.

BrianR
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Old 07-28-2000, 07:30 AM   #4
nativo
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Cool

Guys one of the best 100% synthetic by Euro standards MOTUL 300V. Even better than Mobil 1 and Red Line which by Euro standards are consider Semi-Synthetic
Nativo
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Old 07-28-2000, 08:44 AM   #5
codemunky
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Post

My sube mechanic says he doesn't recommend synthetic. He says it's better to have clean oil all the time, whereas in synthetic, oil change isn't required till about 7000 miles. Any takers?
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Old 07-28-2000, 01:50 PM   #6
ImprezaRS2000
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White

Post

I just use Valvoline DuraBlend, and change every 3000 miles. I'm sure that works just as well as Mobil 1, changing every 5-10k miles.

New Porsches come with Mobil 1, and the warranty is voided if you use anything else. Also, it only needs to be changed every 15k miles! But, it's still really expensive, because it holds 11 quarts!
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Old 07-28-2000, 01:55 PM   #7
Faraz
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Post

i never heard of lubro Moly I have used and use Mobil 1 or Redline ....

Ok Colin:
What filter should we use and what wieght oil then?
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Old 07-28-2000, 02:08 PM   #8
ColinL
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Wink

Beats me, but it's a lot more important than what oil you use. Changing the oil and short intervals for hard use is needed because the filter is contaminated, not that the oil is bad.
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Old 07-28-2000, 02:30 PM   #9
Peaty
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Arrow

OK so I save all sorts of e-mail that I think I may need some day. This is something from another list I'm on that I thought was germain to this question:

Begin quote:

Dear Peter and list subscribers,

I am a chemist who used to work for one of the large chemical companies who
supplied the basestocks for synthetic lubricants; one of my customers was
Redline; I helped them design the basestock combinations for a number of
synthetic applications. Based my my extensive experience with synthetics, I
would recommend at least 5,000 mis prior to changeover to synthetic. You WANT
wear in the first few thousand miles so that the metal is completely smooth. The
lubrication qualities of synthetic will keep the molecular "peaks and valleys"
that result from even the best of machined surfaces. Use of a synthetic before
this microscopic wear happens will result in incomplete seating of rings,
bearings,etc. which will decrease long-term efficiency and performance.

After a 5-10K breaking with ideally "cheap" oil, you then "stop" wear with the
better lubricity of the synthetic. I stick with the factory drain intervals at
5K, even at first oil change, aothough the basestocks for synthetic hold up for
much longer, thje additives do become depleted.

The small amount of mineral present after change will entirely mix, and be
surrounded by synthetic basestock so there is a minimal need to "flush" the
crankcase. The darker color is due to the affinity for the synthetic to
solubilize varnish and sludge deposits throughout the engine. Synthetic can
support about 10x the dirt, varnish, etc. compared to mineral oil without damage
to engine. Oil filters do tend to get loaded up faster w/synthetic.

Regarding the use of synthetic in the manual tranny for the Contour, the pour
point of the PAO basestocks used in redline, Amsoil, and Mobil 1 is
ap[proximately minus 80F; certainly low enough to improve lubricity at temps
encountered in US and most of Canada. The EP additive makes sense to enhance
extreme pressure antiwear performance in a manual trans, since there are many
points where the oil is being "squeezed" metal to metal in the transmission; the
EP additives provide a sacrificial microscopic film of phosphate-sulphur
additive to keep the metal from contacting, even when the oil is completely
squeezed out of the space. Since it is sacrificial, you should change out oil
with new additive every 40K miles, just to make sure. I don't believe that you
will find that the EP additive will contribute to improved shifting while cold,
it will only reduce gear wear over the long run.

Richard Huckins
rhuckins@projectsinknowedge

end quote
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Old 07-28-2000, 06:58 PM   #10
burr101
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Silver

Post

i use mobil 1, decent price and easily avaiable and i change every 3000.

Can some one please give me a quick lesson about oil weight?? i'm never sure which is the best at what time in what engine. please explain viscocity too!! thanks

shaun
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Old 07-29-2000, 12:07 AM   #11
Faraz
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2008 WRX 5door MT
WR Blue

Post

i still changed my synthetic oil ever 3500-4500 miles
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Old 07-29-2000, 12:14 AM   #12
svxxx-26
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Thumbs up

Best oil: Red Line synthetic. And yeah, I change it every 3 to 5 thousand miles.
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Old 07-29-2000, 12:16 AM   #13
ColinL
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'01 Erion CBR 929

Post

Worry less about the brand of oil and more about your filter and the weight of the oil.
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Old 07-29-2000, 12:25 AM   #14
Fusion
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2000 2.5RS Coupe
Silverthorne Metallic

Post

Has anyone actually heard of Lubro Moly? I thought it was better than Redline even.

Haig
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