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Old 04-07-2004, 05:15 PM   #1
hampster
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Question Charging dead battery...

...well my battery went dead ('02 WRX).

Before I start charging it (10 amp auto marine charger), are there any special Subaru precautions I should take (ie: known electrical damage, etc.)?

The plan is to use the jumpstart recommended point for the ground (I think it's an aluminum lift hook on the top of the engine).
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Old 04-07-2004, 05:23 PM   #2
Mulder
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Check the cells and be sure none are dry or lower than the rest, this would indicate a bad cell. Get a cheap battery hydrometer from the parts store so you can test the state of charge in each individual cell, both before and during charging.
If any cells are obviously bad don't waste your time trying to bring the battery back, just replace it. In fact it may be a good idea to just replace it anyway. Assuming the car is regularly driven and the alternator is charging there is no good reason for the battery to be dead unless it's NG.
Also I wouldn't recommend charging it while connected in the car. It's best to remove the battery completely and set it aside somewhere while charging, both for electrical and safety reasons. The charger can introduce electrical spikes into the car's system, and the battery will be venting hydrogen while charging which is explosive and corrosive. You really don't want that in the engine compartment.
The cell caps should be loosened while on charge to allow the gas to vent, just unscrew them and lay the cap on top of its cell. This will also make it easier to check them with the tester.
Clean all the spilled/splashed acid up carefully when done, it's nasty stuff.
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Old 04-07-2004, 09:51 PM   #3
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Screw the stock battery....buy a new Optima or whatever and be done with the stock junker.
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Old 04-07-2004, 09:58 PM   #4
Mulder
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^
Which is what I did, long before my OE battery had a chance to die inconveniently.
But since his post indicated he was about to try charging it, I was just helping him out by answering his question
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Old 04-07-2004, 10:57 PM   #5
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Thanks, Mulder....I applaud your efforts....but....

....ok....jumpstart the car....drive it to 'Midnight AutoParts' or wherever....and tell them ya want a new battery and please dispose of the NFG stock one......

Trying to resuscitate a headless corpse is pointless
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Old 04-08-2004, 01:24 AM   #6
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same thing happened to me in the middle of my stage 4 mod (must of left a light on or something)
I did not have the money at the time to spend on a new battery.
My POS stock battery charged up just fine and has been in the car for 5000 miles since then.

but if you have the money to buy a really nice battery, go for it.
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Old 04-08-2004, 12:17 PM   #7
hampster
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yep...I'm planning on replacing the stock battery soon, but *car* money is a little tight right now. Does anyone know the weight difference between the Optima batteries and the stock one?

I thought the Optimas were 12# heavier than stock (44# vs 32#). I started looking at lightweight gel cells...in fact I just missed a group buy on one with all the hardware on one of the other forums. Some of the gel cells (Braille) are only 11.5#...that saves about 20# over the stock battery...
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Old 04-08-2004, 12:30 PM   #8
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Unless you do serious competion with your car the weight saving isn't that important, IMO it's not worth sacrificing the cranking and reserve capacity.
The Optima is about the same weight as the stock battery if you get the Group 35 which weighs 33 lbs. The Group 34 is the heavier one (38 lbs.) and isn't really needed as the 35 (available in Red-Top only) still has more than twice the CCA of the stock battery with a comparable reserve rating.
I've had the 35 Red going on two years now and still working well.
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Old 04-08-2004, 03:01 PM   #9
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...cold cranking amps...we don't need no stinkin' cold cranking amps in Texas . (I noticed you're in NYC... )

...now reserve capacity is a different story.

So is the Group 35 the stock size, or is it slightly smaller? The red top Optima is the deep cycle one, correct? I read in other posts that the red tops are heavier than the yellow tops...so it looks like I could get a Group 35 yellow top and be lighter AND better than stock.
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Old 04-08-2004, 03:52 PM   #10
Mulder
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Quote:
So is the Group 35 the stock size, or is it slightly smaller? The red top Optima is the deep cycle one, correct? I read in other posts that the red tops are heavier than the yellow tops...so it looks like I could get a Group 35 yellow top and be lighter AND better than stock.
The Group 35 is about the same length and width as the stock battery and fits perfectly in the tray. It's not as high (a few inches shorter) but the OE battery clamp still holds it.
The Red Top is a "Starting and Ignition" battery, the Yellow Top is "Deep Cycle". However the Red Top can tolerate a certain number of deep discharges without damage, unlike a standard battery, it just isn't designed to do this on a regular basis like the Yellow Top. As long as you don't have lots of high-power accessories in your car like a big audio system, and you don't run stuff often with the engine off, you don't need a deep cycle battery and the Red Top will do just fine.
The battery weight is determined by the Group size and not Red or Yellow type, and there is no Group 35 Yellow, only Red.
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