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Old 04-15-2004, 08:47 PM   #1
blackie
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Location: houston tx
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03 wrx
blizzzack stage IV

Default does anyone make a new TMIC gasket and splitter for hyperflow TMIC?

is there anything i can buy or is it going to be a custom job?
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Old 04-16-2004, 01:26 AM   #2
Uncle Scotty
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The v7 STi splitter/seal from rallispec will work well. I installed one on a friends WRX that had the Hyperflow TMIC.
All that had to be done was improvise a 'fence' on the rear side of the IC to catch the rear edge of the seal so it seals and doesn't 'flutter' and make all sorts of noise.
Of course, you must have an STi scoop to fit...
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Old 04-16-2004, 03:03 AM   #3
StarDogChampion
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2002 WRX, 2012 535i

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i hear the APS splitter fits very well also.
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Old 04-16-2004, 11:08 AM   #4
big_adventure
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I've heard that you can mod the APS splitter to work.

However, you really, truly don't need to. I ran sans-splitter and most people with TXS TMICs do as well. I talked to Mark @ TXS, after I already had the TMIC, about splitter and seal options, and he told me that one of their customers set up a thermocouple right at the intercooler outlet, and ran both with and without a splitter and seal. There was less than a 10F difference. It's not nothing, but it's sure not much and if you can't find something, you're certainly not in trouble.
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Old 04-16-2004, 11:21 AM   #5
WRX1
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That is kinda true (about air temps). I am running a temp probeb before and after the ic, and once moving there is no difference on ait temps. The difference is in the amount of time it takes to cool down to ambient temps. With a seal and splitter it takes less than 1/2 the distance to cool back down again.

Russ
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Old 04-16-2004, 12:04 PM   #6
z&cobb
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Quote:
Originally posted by WRX1
That is kinda true (about air temps). I am running a temp probeb before and after the ic, and once moving there is no difference on ait temps. The difference is in the amount of time it takes to cool down to ambient temps. With a seal and splitter it takes less than 1/2 the distance to cool back down again.

Russ
With no spliter and just a front and rear seal and a 12 nozzle misting bar, it takes about a minute to get heat soak at 150+ F on the front tank to about 2 to 10 degrees above ambient on a hot sunny day. I consider that a better idea than futzing around with a "ring" seal and splitter on the TXS TMIC. Once the heat soak is gone the air works fine. In fact the air works fine if you have the time to wait for the IC to cool down that way. So, basically knowing the tank temperature is the most cost effective way to know where the TMIC is at so you can drive accordingly.

Another thing I observed is that just idling the engine, and not even moving, rather than shutting it off on a hot day, is a relative cooling factor in it's own right.

Parking in the bright sunlight, on a 95 F deg day, has pegged my hot and cold tank T meters (160+ F) after about 20 minutes with the engine off (after a run of course).

With forward motion, plus occasional 10 second bursts of water mist, I can stabilize the Version 1 TMIC to about 2 deg over ambient air (60 F test). It can go under ambient on a hot, dry day.
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