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Old 04-19-2004, 06:58 PM   #1
sideways slut
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Default should i sleeve? has anyone cracked a block

this week my motor is coming apart for new rings and im tossing around the idea of getting my block sleeved, but before i kick the money into doing this, id like to know if there is a point. all ive seemed to read is people(including myself) frying pistons, so id like to find out, has anyone ever cracked there block? at what power level? ill be pushing 23-25psi out af a turbonetics t3/t4 ballbearing turbo and id like to make it as reliable as possible.
the sleeves im looking at are darton's flanged sleeves(any coments?)


thanx, jay
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Old 04-19-2004, 07:24 PM   #2
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well... do you have an open or semi-closed deck block?


The darton sleeves are crazy strong. Their tensile strength is 135,000psi.

Stock sleeves are around 35,000 psi.

I'm sure you can do the math. Cylinders are guaranteed to stay pretty damn round with the darton sleeves. Seen lots of big power Honduhs and such running these sleeves.

do you know what kind of commitment you're talking about here?

90-110 bucks a sleeve (I've heard lower and higher quotes) plus 300-500 bucks for the necessary machine work to put them in.

The darton sleeves are claimed to be better for cooling too.
Also 25psi is a lot of boost. If you want minimal cylinder deflection I would deffinitely go for the sleeves with that kind of boost.

Are you lined up with a set of rods that can handle this?
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Old 04-19-2004, 07:27 PM   #3
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oh... I see the RS-T now... forget the open semi closed question.

For those boost levels you should really go sleeved.

Do you have a set of pistons?? Because you can't be running stock pistons like that.

I have a set of brand new (I only unwrapped one to look at it) JE Turbo pistons (with rings, retainers and wrist pins) for sale. I bought them when I thought I cracked a piston, but I was wrong. 8.5:1
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Old 04-19-2004, 07:33 PM   #4
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the price i was given was a little higher then this but ive another guy thats kinda sponcering me and might be able to get them at wholesale. as for rods, im running pauters.
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Old 04-19-2004, 07:44 PM   #5
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pistons?
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Old 04-19-2004, 07:50 PM   #6
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8.5:1 forged creamic topped, teflon coated JE pistons
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Old 04-19-2004, 07:53 PM   #7
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right on.

25 is still a lot of boost isn't it?
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Old 04-19-2004, 08:00 PM   #8
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ya i cant wait, ive been running 15psi for a couple months now and when the clutch decided to grab(clutchmasters stage 3, have a new 4 puck disk in my garage) it would really throw you back. id go out everynight looking for someone to test it on but everyone still had there cars in the garage for winter. i was able to find an sti to pull away from
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Old 04-19-2004, 08:24 PM   #9
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tranny?
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Old 04-19-2004, 08:29 PM   #10
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stock tranny , so no power shifts. ive been lookin at dog backs but the whole not streetable and requires maintainence thing has got me thinking different. ill continue searching but so far it looks like im goin for Kazz syncromesh gears. but that will have to wait.
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Old 04-19-2004, 09:37 PM   #11
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really suprised that it could handle 15lbs of boost. Mine has been handling 11 on the track, but luckily I have a crappy clutch and a lightened flywheel to help minimize drivetrain shock.

I'm going to put JDM STi 5 speed gears in mine. Rallispec thinks they'll hold 400HP.
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Old 04-19-2004, 09:47 PM   #12
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ya i have a lightened flywheel too.
i know zaidallas was running 373whp/351ftlbs @18 psi. he was talking about turning up the boost in the last post i read of his(maybe he blew something cause i dont see him on here anymore)
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Old 04-19-2004, 10:16 PM   #13
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just did a search and he said that his tranny eventually blew under load, not from shifting, so i guess well see.

i was thinking of getting the ra gears but i dont think theyll do the trick, if im going to build i want to be able to shift hard.

oh the ra gearsets that rallyspec sells are ver6. they also less then half the price of kazz, so waybe thats a thought.



back to this sleeves thing. can i get anymore advice. it sounds like i should order them but id still like to know if anyone has cracked there block.

Last edited by sideways slut; 04-19-2004 at 10:22 PM.
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Old 04-19-2004, 10:30 PM   #14
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I don't think a cracked block is your primary concern.

Cylinder distortion will affect many things. piston scuffing, excessive uneven ring wear, head gasket sealing etc.
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Old 04-19-2004, 10:49 PM   #15
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oh i see.... well seeing as your the only one who is responding, im sure you can tell that im pretty much learning as im going and like to get advice that i can rely on, or read to see what others are doing that work. the problem that im running into is that the amont of people that are running where i want to be, dont post to often. ive spent money on crap that has turned out to be just that,crap... and im getting tired of it, id like to be able to put down arround 400whp and ftlbs reliably(yes i know that tunning is very important as you can blow a $10,000 motor if its not tuned, but i just want to eliminate every flaw in the design that i can affort to) that being said, do you think that sleeving is the way to go? im going to begin pm'ing some of the people that ive seen in the big power range and ask the for advice aswell.
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Old 04-19-2004, 11:15 PM   #16
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i've always had the opinion that a sturdy cylinder makes a happy piston... I have zero scientific evidence regarding this.. but the vibration and pressures at +20 psi just make a sleeved/closed deck block seem much more safe. After going through all the trouble of ripping the engine out and installing trick internals, I think you should just take one more step to get a reliable block by sleeving it especially if you can get sponsorship...

In 5 years of subaru watching, i've seen three cracked cylinders. one on RS forums, anothere here I beleive and one that was not reported, but i saw. not a great many but hey...
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Old 05-26-2004, 09:08 PM   #17
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how much psi could you hold if you were to get a 2.8L forged stroker kit, sleeves and valve train work?
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