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Old 04-25-2004, 05:23 PM   #1
wahtor
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Default Green Jelly in the exhaust?

Great Forum! I'm in the process of swapping motors from a wrecked 1986 gl 4x4 with a 30k Japanese import motor and my 1987 4x4 GL. When I was taking the left side exhaust manifold off, there was green antifreeze colored jelly like spots inside the exhaust opening. The other side looks fine. The previous owner of the wrecked car stated it ran great. I think they ran it for a couple of months after the imported motor was replaced before they hit a tree and messed up the front end. I'm greatful for any words of wisdom. I love subs and am trying to preserve the life of this one inexpensively. I'm just hoping that the antifreese isn't a sign of something really bad. I appreciate any help.
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Old 04-25-2004, 08:32 PM   #2
Calebz
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1996 GrandCherokeeLimited

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I would be thinking blown head gasket or cracked head.. not too terribly uncommon on EA82 soobs.
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Old 04-25-2004, 08:48 PM   #3
wahtor
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Thanks for the reply. I hope its the headgasket. I'll dig into it soon. Probably no way of telling now that its off the car besides dissassembling it right?
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Old 04-26-2004, 12:58 AM   #4
Calebz
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Yup, disassembly is in your future..

ANy water in the oil or oil in the water?

I see you are in the NW.. where.. Wahington and Oregon have a huge old school subaru community. Theres probably someone local that can give you a hand if you need it.
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Old 04-26-2004, 11:07 AM   #5
wahtor
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I'll check the oil. I also found last night that the right timing belt cam is bent. It must have gotton hit in the wreck. I'm starting to wonder how "good this motor really is." The alternator and AC compressor are in different positions on both cars. Probably just need to switch brackets. How do those 30k japanese import soob motors do? Any thoughts on them? There are a ton of these cars around out here. Thanks again for the help.
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Old 04-26-2004, 05:43 PM   #6
Flowmastered87GL
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THe different positions are PROBABLY due to this...

One car had AC, but had it removed, therefore there will be a big gap between the PS and alt.

the other had no AC, so the alt is right above the water pump almost.

If the cam is bent you can probably just get the whole cam and housing off a car at the u-pull-it pretty cheap.

Just try to get the same type (if your car is non turbo get a non turbo cam)
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Old 04-26-2004, 07:32 PM   #7
Calebz
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C'mon mike, you have been around long enough to know that the different AC compressor positions are due to one being factory installed and one being dealer installed...

BTW.. there are like 4 different compressors.. they are made by Hitachi and panasonic.
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Old 04-26-2004, 08:11 PM   #8
wahtor
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Thanks for the help. I plan to check the heads and head gasket soon. I'm trying to get the timming covers off and I'm having trouble with the crankshaft pully. Now that the engine is off the car, how do you keep the engine from turning over while you loosen the screw? Probably some special subaru tool. I don't have an air rachet. Any neat tricks? Thanks for the tip on U-Pull It. Thanks again.
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Old 04-26-2004, 11:39 PM   #9
Calebz
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1996 GrandCherokeeLimited

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You don't say whether you have an Auto or Manual.. if its an auto, just jam something in the flexplate through the inspection hole

If its a manual, there is a special tool that slips through the inspection hole and drops into a hole in the flywheel. I don't have the tool either, so I drilled a hole through the top of the bell housing so I could just drop a screwdiver into the hole.. works great
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Old 04-27-2004, 01:43 AM   #10
Flowmastered87GL
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ahhh I didnt fully read it... I just caught that the alt was in different places... didnt notice that AC was involved on both. yes I know that the dealer installed AC is outboard of the alt and factory installed is inboard (between alt and PS)

The way that I get the flywheel off is loosen it up when the engine is still in the car... if its a manual I just put the car in gear and yank up hard on the parking brake.

If its an auto I jam a screwdriver down into the inspection hole as mentioned before.

I got lucky on my 88, my engine rotisserie/stand does not allow flywheel movement because the clutch touches it so I was able to remove the crank pully after the engine was out.
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Old 04-27-2004, 01:29 PM   #11
wahtor
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Thanks for the advice. I did get the crankshaft pully off finally with some wood jammed inbetween the housing and teeth. Next time I will loosen it before it comes out of the engine. Great advice. I pulled the intake, valve cover, and head on the side that had the small drips of crystalized coolant in the exhaust port. Headgasket looks good. I couldn't find any blow-outs. Can the head be checked for cracks, I sure can't see any? Cylinder head looks good to me. Cylinder looks good, I can still see crosshatching lines in the walls. Pistons have some black deposits on them that wipe off pretty easily. I found a good timing cam to replace the bent one. Thanks alot for your guys help. I appreciate it alot. Getting really hard to find mechanics who will work on these let alone give good advice.
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Old 04-27-2004, 07:11 PM   #12
Calebz
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1996 GrandCherokeeLimited

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Quote:
Getting really hard to find mechanics who will work on these let alone give good advice
You are in about the best area in the country to find parts, mechanics and advice for old school subarus.. where exatcly in the NW are you?.. Both Mike and I know at least a dozen people personally in WA and OR that could probably help out.
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Old 04-27-2004, 09:12 PM   #13
wahtor
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You guys have helped me a bunch. I think I'm good now as long as nothing else terrible comes up. I found today that the NAPA in town will pressure test the head and true it, if needed so thats good. They also have gaskets, so I should be set. It's good to know that there are people out there who know how to work on these cars and enjoy them. Thanks again. I appreciate the offer. I have both the Chiltens and Haynes manual for it, but nothin beats hearing from someone who has worked on them before.
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Old 04-28-2004, 12:09 AM   #14
dusktilldawn
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This one brings up two questions.. As far as the 4 different A/C compressors, are there any that are better than others? To the best of my knowledge, my 87 GL is still running on its original charge of R-12, and still blows ICY cold. My 87 GL10 has a much smaller compressor than the GL, and the a/c system won't hold a charge. The GL10 has been rolled too, so who knows what got broken. I just wondered if one system was better (read, more relaible) than the others..

Also, is there a good place to get the specialty tools, like the flywheel lock and the wrist pin pullers? I know the suby dealers can get them for me, I just wondered if there was any place that was more reasonable..
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Old 05-04-2004, 01:11 PM   #15
wahtor
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Just to update you. Both the heads were cracked. They had hairline cracks right between the thin part of metal that seperates the cyllinders. That's on the head side, not the cylinder. Pretty glad I checked. It was hard to see until they got the head bead blasted. Neat tool those bead blasters. So I'm going to pull the heads on my car and if they are ok, I'll put them on this motor.
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