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Old 05-01-2004, 09:57 PM   #1
ilmaestro
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Default Advice for leaking oil pan return tube (ludespeed pan)

I had this pan installed a few weeks ago by my local independant Subaru mechanic (he did a great job). I bought the pan new from Tom @ Ludespeed, who did the custom modification, welding on a tube for the turbo's oil return line. The weld looked good when I got it, but today I noticed some oil under my car and crawled under to notice that the return tube that was welded on by Tom is leaking. Here are a few pics. You can clearly see that the oil pan seal is nice and dry, and the return tube is leaking a bit.





My oil level still looks good, but I don't want to go around with a leak in my pan for long. Any advice? Of course I will be contacting Tom, but I really don't want to pay to take my pan back off and have it fixed, plus the downtime would suck.

Jonathan
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Last edited by ilmaestro; 05-03-2004 at 12:50 AM.
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Old 05-01-2004, 10:15 PM   #2
Kostamojen
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I hate to say it, but thats not how an oil pan should be taped...

Here is a better example:

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Old 05-01-2004, 10:21 PM   #3
ilmaestro
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I wish my oil pan looked that neat, but it doesn't. I think I have heard of a Ludespeed welded pan cracking, but I know many people use them, so I didn't expect a problem when I ordered one. Still not sure what to do with it right now.

jonathan
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Old 05-01-2004, 10:32 PM   #4
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well there's not much pressure in the oil return line, so a bandaid solution should work. Unfortunately my oil return is attached in a very ghetto configuration as well, but it works. I used a combination of JB Weld and high temp RTV to seal it up.
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Old 05-01-2004, 10:38 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally posted by lotusTT
well there's not much pressure in the oil return line, so a bandaid solution should work. Unfortunately my oil return is attached in a very ghetto configuration as well, but it works. I used a combination of JB Weld and high temp RTV to seal it up.
Do you know if any welding would be possible (by someone other than me) with the pan on the car? RTV I can certainly do. How do you think RTV would do with my situation?

jonathan
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Old 05-02-2004, 02:36 AM   #6
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I would not weld the pan on the car. You never get all the oil out when you drain the car. Take it off and re-weld it. It's better to be safe than to have an engine fire. See if tom will refund some of your money based on your pictures.
PS, it's really not all that hard to take the pan off yourself. You just need a long extension and a swivel adapter to get the rear bolts. It also helps to unblot the motor mounts fro the k-frame and jack the motor up a bit with a floor jack. Use a sharp knife or a screwdriver and cut through the seal. Be carful not to scar the block or bend the pan.
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Old 05-02-2004, 03:47 AM   #7
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He's had that problem many times. I ended up taking a WRX pan and having an AN fitting welded to it and making a custom return tube setup for my kit. Worked great and didn't leak.

I had used the Ludespeed pan for a while with only a very minor leak there after repairing... I took it off and cleaned the surface on the tube and pan and the weld area, then JB Welded all over the weld again. Guess I missed the spot slightly, but it held pretty close to everything.
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Old 05-02-2004, 04:35 PM   #8
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so, has anyone had contact with tom @ludespeed lately. He still owes me injectors from the kit I bought in september. I'll try calling him ...again
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Old 05-02-2004, 05:41 PM   #9
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My oil pan leaked in the same area, not a ludespeed pan. I cleaned it off with brake clean and I put silicon around that area and it been good for 2 years.
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Old 05-02-2004, 08:29 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally posted by ilmaestro
Do you know if any welding would be possible (by someone other than me) with the pan on the car? RTV I can certainly do. How do you think RTV would do with my situation?

jonathan
I didn't mean actualy welding, I don't think its possible on the car either. JB Weld is a super heavy duty epoxy. http://www.jbweld.co.uk/files/prodb.html

It can't hurt to try the RTV and JB Weld before trying more expensive/time consuming solutions.
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Old 05-03-2004, 12:45 AM   #11
ilmaestro
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Excellent. JB Weld and RTV it is. Some questions.....

Should I use brake cleaner to clean up the oil residue first...? Where can I pick up some JB Weld and which type should I get (I see a few on their site). Also, which type (color?) of RTV? And finally, any particular way you used them together? I want to get this right the first time.

I did send Tom an e-mail yesterday. Waiting for a response.

jonathan

Last edited by ilmaestro; 05-03-2004 at 12:54 AM.
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Old 05-03-2004, 11:55 PM   #12
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yeah brake cleaner is a good idea. You can get JB Weld at just about any hardware store, home depot, walmart, etc. Just get the standard one, i think its red and black packaging, any of them should work though. I think you want grey RTV, but as long as you get something high temp you should be fine. Clean it off, then JB Weld, let that set up and dry, then RTV it.
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Old 05-04-2004, 01:10 PM   #13
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Thanks Kyle!

I got a response from Tom. He said he would pay to have the pan shipped back and forth to him and he would reweld it... but this would require removing and replacing my pan twice (once to install a temporary pan, once to install the fixed one). This is way too much hassle for me. I'll be trying out the JB Weld solution. His advice for this was to use a wire brush and perhaps sandpaper to clean up the area where the weld is and remove all paint, etc. before using the JBWeld.

I'll give it a go

jonathan
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Old 05-04-2004, 02:08 PM   #14
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Yeah, I used a wire wheel on my drill to clean mine off after removing it. Make sure you clean it very well, then use brake clean, then coat it with JB Weld. I think my leaking problem after sealing it was because of not cleaning it really well.
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Old 05-05-2004, 01:51 PM   #15
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I had the same problem with my ludespeed pan leaking. By all means try to JB weld it first. This didn't work for me though. I ended up with the AN fitting route with a new pan. Its really not that hard to change the pan, I did mine the second time and wish I had done it the first time.

The AN fitting fixed one of my leaks with Toms kit. Hes a good dude and will get you taken care of, just should of been right the first time. Good luck, oil leaks suck.

later
chris
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Old 05-15-2004, 07:41 PM   #16
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I just went out and sanded down the weld, pan and tube area, but still had no idea where the leak was. Curiosity got me, and I decided to run the engine for a few minutes. After that, I was able to barely see some extremely small oil drops condensing on top of the tube, near the engine block. I had to use a mirror to see it. It doesn't look like the weld cracked, but instead the oil is seeping under where the weld and the pan are bonded. I'm going to go out and sand some more after the car cools down, then hit it with JB Weld.

j
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Old 05-15-2004, 10:25 PM   #17
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I should have taken pics after I sanded it, but here is my first shot at JB Weld. Not bad I think. I am very bored by the way.



The top is where the leak was, so I have a mirror shot of the top.


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Old 05-16-2004, 08:43 PM   #18
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Looks like it should hold. At least for a while, you got that sucker covered pretty good.
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Old 05-17-2004, 04:33 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally posted by commador
Looks like it should hold. At least for a while, you got that sucker covered pretty good.
It better hold for more than a while. I don't intend to mess with my oil pan every month.
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Old 05-29-2004, 09:24 PM   #20
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Damn!!! I just went and checked out my oil pan. It is starting to seep some oil again, ever so slightly!! It looks like my JB Weld job that I did a few weeks ago had a TINY little bubble in it that left a hole about the size of a pin head, and now oil is seeping out of it. What should I do?

Can I put JB Weld over my previous JB Weld job? I am not sure how well this stuff would stick to itself. What should I do? I can take pics if anyone would like to see.

jonathan
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Old 05-31-2004, 08:41 PM   #21
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ditch the fricken JB weld. Its an epoxy, and it is always gonna seep.

Get a brass fitting, jam it in there and braze it in using brazing rod and a propane torch. Sand it and paint it, it will look like stock

Then just use 5/8" fuel hose w/ a hose clamp to return oil. There is no pressure in the oil return hose, so stainless braided is completely unnecessary.

-Jake
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Old 06-01-2004, 05:41 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally posted by Unsung Boxer
ditch the fricken JB weld. Its an epoxy, and it is always gonna seep.

Get a brass fitting, jam it in there and braze it in using brazing rod and a propane torch. Sand it and paint it, it will look like stock

Then just use 5/8" fuel hose w/ a hose clamp to return oil. There is no pressure in the oil return hose, so stainless braided is completely unnecessary.

-Jake
So you are saying to get a new oil pan, drill a hole, then put a brass fitting on it, or cut the existing welded tube off of my existing pan?

I'm looking for an alternative that doesn't require removing my oil pan since I bought this one new, I don't have a spare, and I don't have another car to drive around in... along with not having a brazing rod or a propane torch. I already JB welded it, and I'd just like to fix the hole, since that's the only place it's seeping right now.

jonathan
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Old 06-01-2004, 05:49 PM   #23
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Let it seep until you need an oil change, then drain your oil, and let the car sit for a bit. Make sure to fully clean the area around and the actual JB Weld itself, and then give it another coat where you think it is leaking again.

I can't guarantee that you'll get it perfect with JB Weld ever, but I can tell you ahead of time that you will eventually have to pull the pan off the car to fix it permanently.
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Old 06-01-2004, 10:06 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally posted by 8Complex
Let it seep until you need an oil change, then drain your oil, and let the car sit for a bit. Make sure to fully clean the area around and the actual JB Weld itself, and then give it another coat where you think it is leaking again.

I can't guarantee that you'll get it perfect with JB Weld ever, but I can tell you ahead of time that you will eventually have to pull the pan off the car to fix it permanently.
I would wait until you have to change the oil as well, as to not have to do more work. Brazing rod is cheap, and im sure it woudlnt be hard for you to find someone to lend u a propane torch. Even if u had to buy one, its not that expensive.

JB weld is the superglue of the automotive industry. It is never the proper fix, and 9 times out of 10, it just ends up being a mess that has to be cleaned up when you finally decide to do it right.

I dont see why you cant scrape (or use abrasive disk) to remove the JB weld, then use a fatter Brass fitting.

-Jake
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Old 06-02-2004, 05:16 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally posted by Unsung Boxer
I would wait until you have to change the oil as well, as to not have to do more work. Brazing rod is cheap, and im sure it woudlnt be hard for you to find someone to lend u a propane torch. Even if u had to buy one, its not that expensive.

JB weld is the superglue of the automotive industry. It is never the proper fix, and 9 times out of 10, it just ends up being a mess that has to be cleaned up when you finally decide to do it right.

I dont see why you cant scrape (or use abrasive disk) to remove the JB weld, then use a fatter Brass fitting.

-Jake
What type of brass fitting are you talking about? This has me confused. You are talking about cutting off the existing steel tube that is welded into the pan and welding a brass fiting in its place?

jonathan
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