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Old 05-03-2004, 12:22 AM   #1
SparkysJDMSpeedWagon
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Default Vers 4.2 finally installed

Hey, I know everyone was nagging me to do it, so I finally pulled up my carpet and installed v4.2 of my UTEC software. The car runs a LOT better now. No more knock, definately. Sam (shortfuseWRX) and I drove around today hoping to do some tuning, only to find out that my remote selector switch, despite its displaying maps 0-9 on it, is actually only selecting map 0 and map 5. That's pretty strange. Anyways, no more knock, boost comes on smoothly again, and the car is running on map 0 and builds a nice 9-10psi in 1st/2nd and 14-15psi in 3/4/5. I'm going to pull up the carpet again tomorrow to figure out what happened to my map switch. Hopefully, I'll just find the wheel turned to the "5" position. Hopefully.
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Old 05-03-2004, 03:05 AM   #2
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Thought that I had checked that during the install. Seems like someone else even looked at it also (for confirmation).

Look forward to what you learn though. So I take it that the computer was showing map 5 only.

If it's not the unit, I still have a remote switch you can try out.
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Old 05-03-2004, 03:11 AM   #3
SparkysJDMSpeedWagon
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I just got back from checking out the UTEC...it was set in map 0, so it should have worked. I put the switch in the back to map 2, and it was super-fast, so I assume it actually selected map 2 (which I had loaded onto it as TurboXS's base Stage 2 map). I just sent an email to TurboXS about the problem, and it also won't start unless it's in map 0 or map 1. Hopefully, I'll hear back from them soon.
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Old 05-03-2004, 03:20 AM   #4
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just some advice , watch the duty cycle of those stock injectors when running the stage 2 map , brian and i had to pull alot of fuel to get them even close to running less than 100% cycle thats why i'm upgradeing to the sti injectors then fuel rails and pump when i have the money bigger turbo after that.

just my .02
mike
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Old 05-03-2004, 03:31 AM   #5
SparkysJDMSpeedWagon
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Good call, mike. I've definately been watching the CEL light closely ever since we installed the UTEC. I didn't have the craptop hooked up when I ran it in the Stage 2 map (when I manually selected it on the back of the UTEC) because my batteries were dead. However, it didn't throw any CEL's, even flashing ones for knock, so I assume that the fuel system is doing okay. I'm pretty sure that when I moved the switch to the "2" position, it selected the Stg.2 map that I had loaded (boost was higher and sooner for longer), so atleast the switch on the back of the UTEC works...looking forward to hearing TurboXS' diagnosis.

battle-damage Matt
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Old 05-03-2004, 03:49 AM   #6
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eh injecotr duty cycle shouldnt be an issue. esspecially since a stage two map isnt pushing past the stock fuel pressure. although, upgrading injectors just gives you much more of a margin to play with.


sam
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Old 05-03-2004, 04:04 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally posted by SparkysJDMSpeedWagon
I just got back from checking out the UTEC...it was set in map 0, so it should have worked. I put the switch in the back to map 2, and it was super-fast, so I assume it actually selected map 2 (which I had loaded onto it as TurboXS's base Stage 2 map). I just sent an email to TurboXS about the problem, and it also won't start unless it's in map 0 or map 1. Hopefully, I'll hear back from them soon.
The computer should show the correct map that you are in. These changes occur quite quickly (near instantaneous) at low rpm's or with the car off. However, Seems like I recalled some discussion that: if you made a map change and turned the car off, you would need to wait 10-15 minutes for the power to drain before the UTEC would have the CEL flash properly (to indicate which map you're in).
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Old 05-03-2004, 04:25 AM   #8
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Hmm...that shouldn't be the case. I read the manual, and it said that the engine had to be below a certain RPM (I believe it was around 1500 or so, so the car would have to be idling) to change, and that's how I changed it. The switch occasionally changed it, but only from 0 to 5 or back again to 0. I could probably record which numbers on the remote switch correspond to which maps on the UTEC if that would help.
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Old 05-03-2004, 11:47 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally posted by SparkysJDMSpeedWagon
Hmm...that shouldn't be the case. I read the manual, and it said that the engine had to be below a certain RPM (I believe it was around 1500 or so, so the car would have to be idling) to change, and that's how I changed it. The switch occasionally changed it, but only from 0 to 5 or back again to 0. I could probably record which numbers on the remote switch correspond to which maps on the UTEC if that would help.

We're talking about two different things. Yes, you'll switch maps at low RPM's or when the car is off. However, my question was in relation to how you knew what map the UTEC was in. Were you looking at the map from the dashboard display on the computer? Or were you turning the car off, and then on again.

It sounded like your computer died so I was envisioning you counting blinks of the CEL. Your vehicle needs to power down before you'll get the right number of blinks (when you turn on your ignition) that correspond to which map you're in. But if you're using the computer, you would be able to tell by the dashboard display.
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Old 05-03-2004, 03:19 PM   #10
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Before I checked the back of the UTEC, my laptop was still running. I used the dashboard display from the UTEC to see what map it was actually using, which went from a series of 0's to 5's, even though I was cycling through all the positions on the remote switch (0-9). I got an email back from TurboXS, and they say there is probably a bad wire on the remote switch. The suggest that I disconnect the switch and try the car by manually selecting maps.
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Old 05-03-2004, 09:18 PM   #11
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UPDATE:
Okay, UTEC+common sense-dumbness=fast. I disconnected the remote switch, hooked up the laptop today, and opened the "dashboard" menu. Switch on the back said "0", laptop said "switch 5". Okay....moved the switch to "1", laptop said "valet/switch 6". Okay...moved the switch to "2", laptop said "stock/switch 7". Hmm...moved the switch to "3", laptop said "stock/switch 8". Switch to 4, laptop said "map 1/switch 9". Switch to "5", laptop said "stock/switch 0". Perfect. Probably something like the switch came off the back of the UTEC, and the previous owner put it on at the wrong position. At any rate, hooked the switch back up, and now everything runs perfectly. No more wrong maps selected, no more trouble starting the car. Oh yeah, and car runs GREAT in TurboXS' base Stage 2 map. I datalogged a full 2nd gear pull and most of a 3rd gear pull (shouldn't have been going 75 in a 35 on C street near the docks. Oh well....) and peak boost in 2nd was 16.1psi at 5151rpms, while in 3rd gear, it was 15.3psi at 5144rpms. I think I still need to get my TPS sensor calibrated just right, since it never read higher than 98%. Also, shouldn't I open the ABC up a little more for it to be running the full 16.5psi that the map is supposed to be doing? Other than that, everything ran great. Even at 5151rpms with 16.1psi of boost and timing advanced 21deg, it was still running a nice 14.3 AFR and coolant temps never went above 87C. Definately a nice, safe, fast map.
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Old 05-03-2004, 09:22 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally posted by SparkysJDMSpeedWagon
Also, shouldn't I open the ABC up a little more for it to be running the full 16.5psi that the map is supposed to be doing?
Post up your log. You should try adjusting boost with the UTEC not the ABC.

Winslow
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Old 05-03-2004, 09:47 PM   #13
SparkysJDMSpeedWagon
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right right, we've had this discussion already...the map is set to run 16.5psi, right? But the system will only allow 16.1 the way it's set, right? So it's not that adjusting the ABC will actually increase boost...it will just stop limiting it, right? Anyways, here is an exerpt (UTEC logs are really really big)

RPM THR MAP MLP IGN AFR KNOCK
3898 039 -5.9 00 ECU 12.9 00000
4020 069 -2.6 10 +20.0 14.2 00000
4187 098 +1.9 40 +19.8 14.8 00000
4391 098 +6.4 60 +17.0 14.6 00000
4553 098 +10.4 80 +17.8 14.2 00000
4734 098 +13.9 90 +18.8 14.5 00000
5035 098 +15.7 90 +20.3 15.8 00000
5151 098 +16.1 80 +21.0 14.4 00000
5446 097 +15.5 80 +21.0 rich 00000
5574 098 +14.7 70 +21.0 rich 00000
5767 097 +13.9 70 +21.0 rich 00000
5868 097 +13.3 70 +21.5 rich 00000
5995 098 +12.9 70 +22.0 rich 00000
6782 098 +12.1 60 +23.0 rich 00000
6397 098 +11.7 60 +23.0 rich 00000
6497 098 +11.3 60 +23.0 rich 00000
6802 000 +9.8 00 ECU. rich 00000
6915 098 +7.2 20 +25.0 12.6 00000
4642 098 +7.0 30 +21.7 rich 00000

that was the second gear pull (starting at 3898rpms), ending with a shift into 3rd gear pull, which was like this

RPM THR MAP MLP IGN AFR KNOCK
4810 097 +8.0 70 +19.6 rich 00000
4938 098 +10.4 80 +21.0 rich 00000
5112 098 +14.3 80 +20.8 rich 00000
5144 097 +15.3 80 +21.0 rich 00000
5282 097 +15.1 80 +21.0 rich 00000
4866 000 +13.1 00 ECU rich 00000
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Old 05-03-2004, 10:21 PM   #14
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Great, no knock!

A lot of UTEC users tune in 4th gear. Maybe the locals use 3rd. Be safe though.

What is your boost gain set at? How many turns do you have the ABC open? Opening up the ABC a little will increase your boost.

You can calibrate your TPS so that you're hitting >100. I think I set mine around 103. If the pedal wasn't all the way down, TPS would read 99,100, 101, 102, 103.

But you don't have to do this if you're happy with your results. Happy Tuning!
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Old 05-03-2004, 10:29 PM   #15
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It makes sense to tune in a higher gear, since the RPMs don't climb as fast, but I don't feel like getting a ticket for going 120+ just for some tuning. I checked the base map, and boost gain is set at 300. I have my ABC opened 2.5 turns. How can I calibrate TPS settings? All I got from the manual was how to record TPS, not how to adjust the computer for it. Would an extra 5% make a big difference? Either way, I'm really happy with the results so far from the UTEC, and now I'm started to lean towards modifying the map a little. So, when I edit a map and change the boost gain, is it proportional? i.e. if 300 makes 16.1psi at 5100rpms, 325 would make 17.4psi? Or is it more complicated than that?
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Old 05-03-2004, 10:45 PM   #16
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I agree. Getting a ticket or into an accident from a tuning run defeats the purpose of tuning.

You're right, I would tune the boost values in your map than open the ABC up any more.

As far as proportional, I don't know. Also tuning to the 100% throttle probably doesn't make a big difference. It will just give you one more column of numbers to work with if you smooth values between the TPS columns.

Call me at 301-0601. I have some electrical devices (wall outlet- cigerette lighter for the laptop) you can pick up if you're interested.
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Old 05-04-2004, 02:12 AM   #17
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Aw man, I knew I should have checked this message board before I left! I just got back from Radio Shack a few minutes ago and I bought a DC/AC car inverter. It works great though! I also used the trick you used with the serial cable on my laptop's power cable, so it comes out from under the console next to the passenger seat. The only thing you can see inside the car that is different is the power inverter itself and the very beginning of the power cord (I snaked it in at the top of the console, right above the cigarette lighter, and then had it go through the console and out the side). It looks cleeean
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Old 05-04-2004, 02:23 AM   #18
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tuning with the abc open isn't the most reliable, i've found. switch over to closed loop and do some pulls with the abc closed then tune your boost where you want it..... 4th gear is the only reliable tuning imho. go down by potters marsh in the late evening and you'll be able to get moving without much traffic at all.
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Old 05-04-2004, 02:53 AM   #19
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Also, Some on WRXHACKERS don't use the ABC at all. If you can get the boost without it, that would probably be a good thing.
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Old 05-04-2004, 09:50 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally posted by eatwrx
Also, Some on WRXHACKERS don't use the ABC at all. If you can get the boost without it, that would probably be a good thing.
You want to use the ABC to control boost spikes. Most of the boost tuning should be done using the UTEC. That's why you bought it, right? Closed loop will give you better results for daily driving. The boost numbers really don't coorelate to a certain boost because every car is different. Do you have a different format for the logs that show injector duty cycle, etc?

Winslow
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Old 05-04-2004, 10:44 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally posted by SparkysJDMSpeedWagon
It makes sense to tune in a higher gear, since the RPMs don't climb as fast, but I don't feel like getting a ticket for going 120+ just for some tuning. I checked the base map, and boost gain is set at 300. I have my ABC opened 2.5 turns. How can I calibrate TPS settings? All I got from the manual was how to record TPS, not how to adjust the computer for it. Would an extra 5% make a big difference? Either way, I'm really happy with the results so far from the UTEC, and now I'm started to lean towards modifying the map a little. So, when I edit a map and change the boost gain, is it proportional? i.e. if 300 makes 16.1psi at 5100rpms, 325 would make 17.4psi? Or is it more complicated than that?

Actually, the goost gain is special constant parameter that tells the turbo how fast to spool up. I think the default setting is set at 50.

The values in the boost map (>100) usually mean that you're running closed loop boost. This is only true if you have the special constant set for closed loop boost. You'll need to download the latest instruction manual for the UTEC as it deals with this topic on the 04's.
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Old 05-05-2004, 03:40 AM   #22
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sorry guys DAMMIT im gonna kill this guy posting on my sn.

Last edited by krnkimche2; 05-05-2004 at 06:05 AM.
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Old 05-05-2004, 03:48 AM   #23
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Maybe I should upgrade to Version 4.2 Hot Chick...w/o plungeR?

(...strange...)
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Old 05-05-2004, 04:43 AM   #24
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how bout NWS...thanks guys.
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