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Old 06-30-2000, 05:40 AM   #1
IMPBOY
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Join Date: Jul 1999
Location: San Ramon CA, USA
Post Will 110W bulb melt the light housing?

PIAA Super Plasmas are 110W and according to some memers who have them there aren't any problems. Would different brands of 110W bulbs be safe?
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Old 06-30-2000, 06:17 AM   #2
N/A
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Location: Burlington, WA
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TBA TBA
TBA

Post

I have seen one RS owner who used a higher output in his fog lamps and it turned his lense on them to a burned brown color. I am not sure about the wiring on them but we both agreed the fog lights lense wasn't built for the high amount of heat they produced. I used the PIAA Super Whites on my RS for my headlights and I had no problem though. I skipped upgrading the fogs after seeing the other car.
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Old 06-30-2000, 10:10 AM   #3
Willis
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Blue

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I bought a set of 110W Hellas just to be crazy. Nothing turned brown, and they're really bright.

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Old 06-30-2000, 11:06 AM   #4
Bassem
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Post

In the winter I run 135/135W PIAA ion crystal H4s. They run fine, but very hot. That's why i run them in winter when the external temp helps keep the glass cool enough not to get damaged.

Bassem
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Old 06-30-2000, 02:16 PM   #5
Orbiter
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2002 Impreza WRX
Britney Edition

Post

I use to run 110watt Eurolite h4s.. the left side started melting the plastic molex.. so i took them out..
gone back to the standard wattage.
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Old 06-30-2000, 03:08 PM   #6
RS>Z
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Cation: I had 110w xenon bulbs in my RS.
They melted the wire harness on both sides.
I had to get new plugs off a junked Impreza.

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Old 06-30-2000, 08:59 PM   #7
Eric Gagnon
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2001 Jetta 1.8T
White

Cool

I am using PIAA Superwhite H4's that are 85w=115w, I replaced the relays with uprated PIAA relays and new wires. They are fine except for i burnt the little reflector that covers the bulb.


Eric
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Old 07-01-2000, 01:40 AM   #8
redobs
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2009 WRX wagon
Dark grey

Thumbs up

The wattage isn't actually 110watts. That's the ouptut. I have 80/80watt bulbs in and they work just fine.
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Old 07-01-2000, 01:48 AM   #9
andyC
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2002 Silver
double you are ecks wagon

Post

How much do these bulbs usually cost?

Andy
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Old 07-01-2000, 01:49 AM   #10
ColinL
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'01 Erion CBR 929

Post

Willis, how long have you had the 110w Hellas installed? Have you inspected the wiring?

Sounds interesting, if a bit blinding to our fellow drivers...
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Old 07-01-2000, 09:55 AM   #11
Dustin
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Silver

Post

Anybody using the Hella Bulbs in the stock wattage? Just curious if they are brighter than stock? Thinking about getting the Optiluxes for the headlights, and possibly Yellowstars for the fogs. what is everyones opinion on running 85watt bulbs in the fogs? Thats the lowest that the Yellowstars come in. Upgrade the relays possibly?

Thanks for any ideas
Dustin
'00 RS Coupe BRP
Seattle, WA
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Old 07-01-2000, 07:24 PM   #12
STi Sev
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99 Impreza
Rally Blue Pearl

Angry

mine are brown/blue (it's actually called, burning the deflectors, when they change color)

I use PIAA SuperWhites 80 watts
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Old 07-02-2000, 01:30 AM   #13
yuusaku
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2000 Impreza 2.5RS
Aspen White

Thumbs up

I'm using Hella Optilux 80/100 H4 with
a set of relay, it's much brighter than
stock.

but the color isn't as white as i expected...



[This message has been edited by yuusaku (edited July 01, 2000).]
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Old 07-02-2000, 11:52 AM   #14
direwlf
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1999 Impreza 2.5RS
Silverthorn Metallic

Post

I'm running PIAA superplasma's in the headlights at stock wattage (55/50) and super white platinum's in the fogs also stock wattage. Big improvement in lighting output, no sign of burnt reflectors or lenses so far (after 3 months, over 50% of time at night). Both sets cast like 85W, headlights have an electric blue/white color. Heard of longevity problems with both sets, though. Course, the brighter lights didn't stop me from hitting a deer last week either. Jumped out 50' in front of the car on a gravel road. Got lucky, only $430 cdn damage
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Old 07-02-2000, 04:59 PM   #15
thepas
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Post

I'm with BruceLee, same setup, works just fine. the Headlights are fine, no color change in the reflector, the fogs on the other hand did, I don't care, they don't hurt the light at all.

Kyle
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Old 07-03-2000, 12:07 AM   #16
Patrick Olsen
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1997 Legacy 2.5GT
QuickSilver Metallic

Post

This is one of those topics that it seems like responses are always about 50/50. Some people pull it off no problem, others scorch their wiring/melt reflectors, whatever.

I myself had the same problem as Eric Gagnon. Using 80/100W bulbs, the little reflector that covers the tip of the bulb turned golden brown. Didn't affect the light at all, but I wasn't too impressed. I've now gone back to stock wattage because the ground connector (right where the wiring attaches to the bulb) on both sides of my Competition Limited wiring harness got scorched. Some "heavy duty" harness!

Pat Olsen
'99 Legacy 2.5GT 5speed sedan
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Old 07-04-2000, 09:31 AM   #17
Willis
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Blue

Post

ColinL,

I've been running the 110W Yellow Stars in my fog lamps for over a month now. I recently inspected the lenses and checked the wiring all the way back to the pink relay. Everything seems to be fine. But I might re-wire it anyway because that is some skinnyass wire to be holding 110W.

BTW, I have the MY98 fog light setup. That could be a reason why its not browning.

Also, the fog lights are pointed slightly downward so it won't blind other drivers.

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Old 07-04-2000, 09:39 AM   #18
BoomerRS
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Location: W Hartford, CT USA
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98 RS
****in Rally Blue

Post

u definetly want to be careful if u are running high wattage bulbs.

dustin i am running hella xenons in the stock wattage in the driving lights. brighter than stock, not a huge difference but it was what i was looking for. MY98 btw (99 and 00 have a different design, but i would expect the same results if not better)

and i dont understand how the bulbs can be 80W but output 100W. as far as i know, light output is not measured in watts.

boomer
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Old 07-05-2000, 07:23 AM   #19
DuneHopper
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2000 OBS
White

Thumbs up

I'm also using the Hella Xenons in the stock wattage on a MY00. Used to have a MY98, and the MY 99 & 00's do have a better headlight design. As Boomer said, the Xenons are definitely an improvement, but not drastically so. Worth the $20.
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Old 07-06-2000, 03:01 AM   #20
Momo
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2012 SWP STI 5dr

Thumbs up

You know, I installed these Premium White RAZO lights on mine, for both headlight and fogs. It draws 50-55W, output at 110W, and I have no burning/charring/discoloring at all. The color is very white, with a slight blue tinge on the sides, they look almost like M-B Xenon. Not cheap though; 85 for H4, 80 for H3, but very cool (u can find them at AutoFreak, in Kent).
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Old 07-15-2000, 10:09 AM   #21
gumball
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Question

Hey Patrick, which 80/100 bulbs did you use that browned you reflectors? I've been thinking about the Hella Optiluxes. Also, BoomerRS, I think 80/100 refers to low-beam high beam, not input/output?


thanks
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Old 07-15-2000, 07:11 PM   #22
jasony
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Red

Lightbulb

Dustin:

I posted my analysis of the 85W yellow stars in that other thread:
http://www.i-club.com/ubb-files/Foru...ML/003119.html

I think 85W are fine in the foglamps. no sign of burning at all. Also, I believe the yellowstars are 85W=85W, unlike the 55W=85W PIAA's. Someone correct me if I'm wrong.

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Old 07-16-2000, 02:45 AM   #23
slamck
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'00 RS
'03 LLBean, '05 B4

Post

I have PIAA SuperWhite 80/80W H4 headlight and 85W H3 fog light also. They are noticeable whiter and brighter than stock bulbs. No problem so far. But I usually avoid turning them on in hot day time worrying something could melt.

BTW, the wattage above are actual wattage. I don't believe PIAA's claim of 80=135W output. At least their SUPER WHITE 55/60 W=110/100W bulb doesn't look like twice as bright other halogen light bulb. Whiter they may, brighter?? not necessary.
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Old 07-17-2000, 11:11 AM   #24
BoomerRS
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98 RS
****in Rally Blue

Post

gumball
what i meant was, people are always saying that they are such and such wattage bulbs (say 60w), but output such and such (100w). how does that work? light output is not measured in watts. do they mean that the light output is equivalent to a bulb that draws 100w... what kind of bulb? halogen? it doesnt make sense to me.
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Old 07-17-2000, 02:12 PM   #25
Tarmac Terror
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2001 Turbo RS
Black

Post

Hey guys here is some info I found if you plan to make your own wiring harnesses. If you need help let me know I have done many lightd jobs. Like our Tarmac Motorsports Rally VW. http://www.geocities.com/tarmacmotorsports/GTIPic4.jpg
If you have any trouble we will be updating our site and will be adding info on how to do this.


Sensible Wiring

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

All of us are concerned about wiring our car properly. So much in fact, that Iíll bet most of you engineer to overkill. What are the issues you need to be concerned about?

1. Use the smallest reasonable sized wire for the required current.

Wire is expensive and the larger you go, the more expensive it is.
Wire is heavy and the larger you go, the heavier it gets.
Mechanically, smaller wire is easier to route, easier to protect, easier to fit connectors on and therefore, more reliable mechanically (There are limits - see below).
2. Use a large enough wire so there is no voltage drop. We want whatever it is we are wiring to operate at top efficiency.

3. Maintain an adequate safety margin. We donít want to melt any wires do we?

The first thing you have to do is determine the current you have to carry. For DC circuits, thatís relatively easy. Some equipment on a car is rated directly in current draw. Auxiliary fans, fuel pumps and things like that are rated in current draw - Amps. Some equipment is rated in Watts - mostly the lighting equipment. The power requirement in Watts will be printed right on the bulb or stamped in the base. To come up with amps use one of the formulas shown here.

Current in Amps = Power in Watts/Voltage in Volts

Current in Amps = Voltage in Volts/Resistance in Ohms

Current in Amps = The Square Root of Power in Watts/Resistance in Ohms

Letís calculate for a typical 100 Watt Driving Light - the power required is 100 Watts and the voltage is 12 Volts - so the current requirement is 100 Watts/12 Volts = 8.33 Amps. Actually, it's somewhat less than that because the rated output of a lamp is figured at 13.5 volts, not 12 volts - 13.5 volts is typical when your engine in running and the Alternator is working correctly. We'll use the 12 volt figure anyhow - Letís assume you have to run a wire 6 feet from a relay to the lamp - check out the chart below. Using the 10 Amp column youíll find that you can run 10 Amps on 15 feet of 18 AWG with only 1/2 Volt drop. Go to the next size larger for a safety margin and youíre at 16 AWG (See the note below on output losses with lighting). Now in reality, you have to balance the mathematical results with mechanical reliability. Me, Iíd go to 14 AWG as the wire and connectors are physically stronger ó plus I only buy three sizes ó 14, 12 and 10 AWG. Those three and crimp-on connectors are readily available just about anywhere. And except for primary circuits, those three sizes will cover just about anything you want to wire in a car with an adequate safety margin.

So how much current are you drawing in your car total? Is your Alternator big enough? Letís say you have four 100 Watt Driving Lights and youíve upgraded your OEM Lights to 100 Watts each for another 200 Watts. Now youíre at 600 Watts, or 50 Amps, just in forward lighting! Got an electric cooling fan? Another 8-12 Amps, the same as your heater fan. Dual Horn - 12 to 20 Amps. Stop Lights - 2 Amps each. Marker Lights - 0.5 Amps each. Ignition - 8 to 12 Amps. Fuel Pump - 4 to 8 Amps. When you are installing auxiliary equipment in your car or truck, it's always a good idea to keep track of how much current you're drawing total so you can make sure your alternator is up to the job!

Note that wire sizes for lighting is more critical than for other applications ó The rated output of a lamp is figured at 13.5 volts, not 12. So with a 1/2 volt drop you are at 13.0 volts. And at 95% of the rated voltage, you are only putting out 80% of the rated luminous intensity - for a 100 watt lamp thatís only 80 watts!! Get what you pay for and figure to the high side when you are sizing wire for lighting.

Maximum length in feet for car wiring
return to text
Wire Gauge Current Load in Amps @ 12 Volts DC
4 A 6 A 8 A 10 A 12 A 15 A 20 A 50 A
20 AWG 26' 17' 13'
18 AWG 37' 25' 18' 15' 12'
16 AWG 56' 37' 28' 22' 18' 14'
14 AWG 90' 60' 45' 36' 30' 24' 18'
12 AWG 143' 95' 71' 57' 47' 38' 28'
10 AWG 227' 151' 113' 90' 75' 60' 45'
8 AWG 363' 241' 181' 145' 120' 96' 72' 29'
6 AWG 585' 390' 292' 234' 194' 155' 117' 46'
4 AWG 925' 616' 462' 370' 307' 246' 185' 74'
2 AWG 1515' 1009' 757' 606' 503' 403' 303' 121'
1 AWG 1923' 1280' 961' 769' 638' 511' 384' 153'
0 AWG 2427' 1616' 1213' 970' 805' 645' 485' 194'

Calculate the current load and find the next highest on the top row. Go down that column until you find the length you need to run. The wire gauge required is shown in the far left column.
The maximum lengths are based on a 1/2 volt drop over the indicated length.
To be safe, always choose one wire size larger than you need for the required current carrying capacity and length. For example: Youíve calculated 10 amps load, over a length of 15 feet. The chart shows that 16 AWG is suitable. Choose 14 AWG to allow an adequate margin for safety.



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