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Old 05-06-2004, 05:36 AM   #1
njpreppy
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Default Autopower 4pt Roll Bar Install

Wasn't sure where to post this so...

I got this:
http://www.ioportracing.com/Merchant...ory_Code=AP805

with cross brace, harness bar, and DOM tubing. Wanted to know if anyone has any tips on installing it. From what I know, put it in, mark off where it goes, take it out, drill put it in, loctite the bolts. Any info would be great!

Thanks,
Chris
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Old 05-06-2004, 08:16 AM   #2
Chillibop
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Old 05-06-2004, 08:30 AM   #3
ellisnc
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start by taking most of the interior out. In my car I had to remove the B-pillar garnishes. I left the bar in and just drilled one hole at each corner through the hole in the bar and once one was drilled at each leg, bolt those through and then do the others.

One other interesting tip - you won't be able to drill one hole on the right side floor leg, but if you get the first two holes drilled then bolt the plate to those then you can drill up from the underside through the plate and find the hole.

Putting holes in car sheet metal is easy.
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Old 05-06-2004, 12:37 PM   #4
njpreppy
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Wow, didn't know there was a scoobymods for this, thanks. Thanks for the input guys!

-Chris
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Old 05-06-2004, 02:46 PM   #5
HoRo1
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I didn't have to remove my B-pillar stuff, but I did have to remove the oh-my-God handles from above the rear doors.

Lots of too-ing and fro-ing and messing around, but not difficult. Just BE SURE that you have got the roll bar properly positioned before you start marking holes for drilling. It seems that no matter how "right" you think you've got it, it can always be moved another 1/4 ".
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Old 05-06-2004, 03:31 PM   #6
Redneck Ricer
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yeah, just rememebr, measure twice, drill once
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Old 05-06-2004, 08:09 PM   #7
ellisnc
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That's why you get the bar in place and then drill one hole and bolt it at a time. That way they don't move around on you

I put the B-pillar garnishes back ( didn't take seats all the way out, just unbolted them and shoved them way up against the instrument panel) but yeah you'll have to remove the rear handles. While you're there if you care about weight savings at all you can remove the metal brakets as well under the headliner.
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Old 05-07-2004, 09:21 AM   #8
CTKAG
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....and it's definitely a two-person job!!

Same here - did not remove B-pillar garnishes or unbolt seats. O-S handles removed. I had already gutted rear interior, so that made life easier there.

My biggest gripe? Now I really can't fit my track tires in the back of the car - no room to fit them through the side braces.

Oh - shoot a coat of paint on the backing plates - they rust up very quickly!

-Keith-
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Old 05-07-2004, 09:51 AM   #9
Redneck Ricer
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Quote:
Originally posted by CTKAG
....and it's definitely a two-person job!!

Same here - did not remove B-pillar garnishes or unbolt seats. O-S handles removed. I had already gutted rear interior, so that made life easier there.

My biggest gripe? Now I really can't fit my track tires in the back of the car - no room to fit them through the side braces.

Oh - shoot a coat of paint on the backing plates - they rust up very quickly!

-Keith-
I know the feeling! My wheels and tires have to go in through the trunk

as for the backplates, dont spray with paint, spray with a few layers of undercoating, just like form the factory. You can get it at pretty much any autoparts stores.

obn mine, you look under, and you see the same pebbly grain black surface everywhere. harder to remove down the line, but protects it more.

also, when you drill the holes, and put the bolts in, put a ring of silicone around the hole to keep water out, prevent rust, just in case

p-rex
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Old 05-07-2004, 10:36 AM   #10
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Wow, now this is the type of info I was looking for. Thanks guys
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Old 05-07-2004, 01:22 PM   #11
njpreppy
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Oh, a question. I understand the kit comes with Grade 5 hardware. Any reason why it's not Grade 8? Anyone switch to Grade 8?
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Old 05-07-2004, 01:30 PM   #12
Jon Bogert
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Quote:
Any reason why it's not Grade 8?
Maybe the same reason it bolts to the floor instead of the frame rail?

Is this thing approved for any form of motorsport in which you might actually roll over, or is it just an enhanced harness bar?
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Old 05-07-2004, 02:05 PM   #13
njpreppy
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It's approved by most sanctioning bodies
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Old 05-07-2004, 02:06 PM   #14
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I always wanted to put a monkey in my post. The banana is too fruity
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Old 05-07-2004, 02:07 PM   #15
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o'doyle rules
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Old 05-07-2004, 02:10 PM   #16
njpreppy
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poopyhead is my install friend, not just a posting schmuck
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Old 05-07-2004, 11:17 PM   #17
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some people do upgrade the hardware to grade 8 and nylon locking nuts. remember to paint the backing plates and put the bolts facing up (into the car) for more clearance in the wheel well and under the car.
-spenc
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Old 05-08-2004, 04:04 AM   #18
ChrisDP
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I haven't installed one of these in a WRX, but I've put a few of these into Integras.

Wiggle and jiggle it into place until it won't wiggle/jiggle anymore. If you have the removable crossbrace, installed the bar with the crossbrace in place. The crossbrace is often in tension when it's bolted into place and will slightly distort the main hoop. You don't want to get main hoop bolted in and then realize the crossbrace won't fit. Black silicone is a good thing to go beneath the backing plates. Double-nut all the backing plate bolts. These will need to be retorqued after about a week, then again at a month. After that, they should be good for quite a while. I'd go with SFI-rated padding anywhere you or a passenger could conceivably bang their head against in a wreck. Beyond that, having a friend helps a lot for manipulating the main hoop into place. I've installed one alone, and it just plain isn't much fun.
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Old 05-08-2004, 04:26 AM   #19
njpreppy
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ChrisDP: Thanks man. I'll have 2 slaves working with me. I have tons of padding although my rear seats are in my basement. I actually carpeted the rear to make it look better. I never wanted a 4 person car anyways (Don't ask why I didn't get a coupe) I'm going to pad the bars towards the front - like the hoop, incase a flailing arm hits one but I do have 5pt's...won't be sliding around all that much. Thanks for the re-torque'ing info, i'll be sure to do that. The rollbar came with the crossbrace already on there but i'll take your advice and not take it off during install. Thanks,

-Chris
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Old 05-08-2004, 06:21 AM   #20
ellisnc
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Quote:
Originally posted by p-rex
I know the feeling! My wheels and tires have to go in through the trunk

I freaking hate that
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Old 05-08-2004, 08:00 AM   #21
dwx
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Off topic but I have a 4-pt autopower roll bar for sale. If yo are near the midwest and are looking for one maybe I can arrange something.

I used to put my wheels and tires in by sliding the passenger seat all the way up and throwing them up and over the harness bar portion of the rollbar.
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Old 05-13-2004, 01:30 AM   #22
WRCHAMP
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PM'd you...
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Old 05-13-2004, 10:18 AM   #23
CTKAG
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Quote:
Originally posted by dwx
I used to put my wheels and tires in by sliding the passenger seat all the way up and throwing them up and over the harness bar portion of the rollbar.
Unfortunately, with the cross brace that option is out.

Also, I have the Cusco 'V' brace in the rear - so passing them through the trunk is out too. *sigh* I'm really afraid I'm going to tear the seat fabric pushing the tires in over the front seat - and that option will be gone once I put in a 'real' race seat.

-Keith-
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