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Old 05-19-2004, 12:43 AM   #1
ImprezaRSfan!
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Default my swap progress

1. Took off rear end.
2. Put on r180 rear end.
3. Pulled my RS motor and tranny.
4. Put in STi engine/tranny. The sti 6-speed is significantly bigger than the RS tranny. Pretty tight on the tranny tunnel, but cleared it A O.K

As of now im STUCK!

My sti tranny came with a halfshaft that was cut at the inner axle part closest to the tranny. Its just a green "stump". So i insert a roll pin punch and hammer away to get it out and it gets stuck. So i try to reverse it back and the shaft of the pin punch snaps off inside of it .

I then tried to use a nail and back it out and that made it even worse. As of now i have a bunch of metal chunks wedged inside of the front axle/halfshaft hole and it wont budge AT ALL. I tried whacking it with a hammer from both sides are no budge .

What can i do? I need to remove it so i can put in the good sti axles i have. Is there any other way to remove the front axles/halfshaft if the spring pin wont budge at all ?
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Old 05-19-2004, 11:28 AM   #2
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smaller punch?

i bought a set at harbor freight for ~$6

wondering if the axel was installed upside down ..if you install the axel 180 degrees from where it is suppose to be the hole won't match up perfectly

since the axel is a throw away you might try drilling out both sides ...
be carefull..just dont drill the shaft
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Old 05-19-2004, 10:52 PM   #3
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another day gone by... another day wasted trying to get the crushed/jammed spring pin with a nail inside of it out with no luck.

I have tried the following:

pin punch - broken
pin punch small - broken
pin punch brass - broken

High speed drill bit 3/16" to drill it out - what a joke did nothing.

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Old 05-19-2004, 11:00 PM   #4
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Titanium bits and a pneumatic drill are your friends. It will work. Those pins are very thin metal.
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Old 05-20-2004, 12:19 PM   #5
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dont drill out the pin. drill out the "stump" then you should be able to push the pin out easier

your using one of these right?


the set costs a whole 5.99
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=32954
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Old 05-20-2004, 03:18 PM   #6
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i cant get the stump out untill i get the pin out.

Im gonna try using a flame torch to soften the metal then maybe i can hit it out.
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Old 05-20-2004, 04:13 PM   #7
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yeah .. drill the stump enlarge the hole
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Old 05-20-2004, 04:52 PM   #8
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I did the same thing in my buddies Impreza, broke off a drift that got stuck on the inside of the roll pin. You can drill untill you are blue in the face, the roll pins are hardened steel, it will just ruin your bits. Like jaxx said you need to hammer out the pin. Watch how hot you get the trans stub axle, you dont want to ruin your seal. I finally got it out by driving out the broken drift first, then driving out the pin. All that junk wedged inside the roll pin is only making it tighter in the hole.

Good lesson to be learned. Use the correct size STEEL drift! Dont use nails or brass punches!
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Old 05-20-2004, 07:19 PM   #9
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Maybe obvious; use a small 2 lb sledge on the drift pin.
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Old 05-20-2004, 09:17 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally posted by fragment
Maybe obvious; use a small 2 lb sledge on the drift pin.
space is pretty tight

i called 5 tool rental places, none rent a pneumatic drill
also my grandfather wont let me use a flametorch becuase lots of tranny fluid came out of the tranny when it was tilted and put in the car and hes scared it will catch on fire.

helppppppppppp
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Old 05-20-2004, 09:19 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally posted by Scoobie Steve
I did the same thing in my buddies Impreza, broke off a drift that got stuck on the inside of the roll pin. You can drill untill you are blue in the face, the roll pins are hardened steel, it will just ruin your bits. Like jaxx said you need to hammer out the pin. Watch how hot you get the trans stub axle, you dont want to ruin your seal. I finally got it out by driving out the broken drift first, then driving out the pin. All that junk wedged inside the roll pin is only making it tighter in the hole.

Good lesson to be learned. Use the correct size STEEL drift! Dont use nails or brass punches!
what size is the correct size do u know? 7mm ?
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Old 05-21-2004, 01:06 AM   #12
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whoa no thats waay to big 4mm perhaps
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Old 05-23-2004, 05:29 PM   #13
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A: the gda control arms won't fit and are the wrong size for a gc/gm- incorect geometry

b:tranny -bad bad bad where did you get the tranny from call them, you got screwed you have no output shaft
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Old 05-23-2004, 11:20 PM   #14
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one side has an output shaft and the other side doesnt.

But both sti axles i have include the output shaft on the axle.


u can see the "stump" on the left which i finally got out so i can put the axle in now.

The piece on the right is whats missing on the passenger side, but both axles include the piece on the right which is held to the axle by the spring pin.

So im ok im not missing any pieces.
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Old 05-24-2004, 09:23 AM   #15
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oh the cursed c- clamps ..

makes sense
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Old 05-24-2004, 11:48 PM   #16
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disconnected the output shaft from the axle via the spring pin. Pushed the output shaft into the tranny hole untill it clicked in place nice and tight then put the axle in and tapped the spring pin in. Both front axles are now in the right way nice and snug.

im 99% done. the front brembos and control arms are on.

The steering rack is the last thing im stuck on.

I pushed both tie rods through the hole in the hub and hand torqued the castle nut (could only turn it a tiny bit). When i use a ratched and try to torque down the castle nut, the whole stud moves on the tie rod.

i cant tighten the castle nut because when i do the whole damn bolt/stud moves and i dont know what to do. The stud has a hole in it. I tried putting the cotton pin in the hole in the stud to keep the stud in place but it wasnt strong enough and i was bending the cotton pin.

what should i do?
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Old 05-25-2004, 05:40 PM   #17
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Make sure the threads on the tie-rod are good. Many people hit the threaded part to remove them from the hub. That is not good! If the threads are good you can use an impact gun to put on the castle nut. Usally this tightens the nut without spinning the stud. If you are still having trouble try using a welding clamp/ c-clamp or vise grip to squeeze the tapered stud into the hub and then tighten the nut.
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Old 05-25-2004, 06:13 PM   #18
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Most tie rods i've seen have a small piece for you to put a wrench on it. Typically 14 or 17mm. It might be hard to see under a rubber boot, or maybe subaru doens't have them at all. Look closely at it....
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Old 05-25-2004, 11:03 PM   #19
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its a flat circular bolt on the other end
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Old 05-25-2004, 11:18 PM   #20
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If the shafts are from a GDB make sure they are not too long as the GC8 is narrower than the GDB, thats why the TCA's wouldn't fit and the rubber bushing is different too. If you just remember a GC8 is the same width as a bug-eye wagon, not the sadan.
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Old 05-26-2004, 01:27 AM   #21
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im using gc8 steering rack and rie rods. GDB sti hubs axles, RS control arm.
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Old 05-31-2004, 02:42 AM   #22
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tried to start the car today to see if it would fire up. It cranks but doesnt start. When i turn the key to ON position, i hear a "click click... click" noise from the engine bay, not sure waht it is. Im still waiting for my walboro fuel pump to come in, but i should still be able to start the car up with stock one. I cant hear the fuel pump buzzing which means the engine is prolly not getting fuel.

There are 2 wires for the wrx/sti ecu for fuel pump

fuel pump control 1
fuel pump control 2

on the RS, there is the following

fuel pump temperature sensor
fuel pump level sensor
fuel pump control sensor
fuel pump pressure control solenoid (i think i named it right)
and
fuel pump power ground

im not sure how i should go about splicing these. The wrx pinouts give locations for all the above, but there missing on my sti ecu. How do i wire the fuel pump up so i can start my car ?
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Old 05-31-2004, 11:29 AM   #23
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You are going to need to get a fuel pump controller or just hardwire in a switch to run the fuel pump. Shoot me an IM and I'll help you sort out this part of the mess.

Z
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Old 05-31-2004, 11:54 PM   #24
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can anyone help me find the fuel pump controller on www.subaruparts.com ??

edit: found it

Last edited by ImprezaRSfan!; 06-02-2004 at 06:59 PM.
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