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Old 05-20-2004, 03:30 PM   #1
anti.team
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Default Racing Harness Install

Ok, I figured that I would ask abut this here rather than in the "Interior" forum since I plan on using my harness for autocross, not for car shows.

I'm getting a harness soon for autocross use but I'm not exactly sure where to anchor the "anti-submarine" strap (the one that goes between your legs). I figured that some of you probably have harnesses already. Where is your's anchored?

I would rather not bolt through the floor. Drilling holes in my floor doesn't sound like much fun.
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Old 05-20-2004, 03:34 PM   #2
thrdeye
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if you are just using it for auto x, get a 3 point and save some money
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Old 05-20-2004, 04:00 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally posted by thrdeye
if you are just using it for auto x, get a 3 point and save some money
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Old 05-20-2004, 04:44 PM   #4
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3-Point is all you need...I tied into the babyseat thingy behind the rear seat with one of those rope climbing thingy hooks. You know what I mean...

Kevin
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Old 05-20-2004, 05:07 PM   #5
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I recently installed a harness bar and driver/passenger 5-point harnesses.

For the anti-sub strap, go to your local home improvement store and buy a piece of 1/8" 90-degree welding steel, about 1 inch wide on either side (like an L, but with equal sides). I bought a 36" piece and cut it in two (I needed just about 18" x 2, one for each side).

Carefully measure the centerline distance between your two front seat mount holes, and then drill corresponding holes in the steel. Mount it finger tight, and scribe a mark where you want the anti-sub strap to mount on the bar.

Tools needed:
- rotary cut-off tool (or hacksaw)
- drill
- bench grinder (or big file)

Be sure to use a grade 8 or better bolt for securing the strap. I didn't need longer bolts for the seats, but if you do be sure to use grade 8 or better bolts there as well.

To finish the mounting bar I wrapped it up in black racer tape after rounding all sharp edges with a bench grinder.

HTH,
gr.
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Old 05-20-2004, 06:09 PM   #6
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Greg, can we convince you to post some pics of your setup? Ill be needing a harness soon as well. Which bar did you get and what are your impressions?
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Old 05-20-2004, 06:39 PM   #7
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Old 05-20-2004, 08:54 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally posted by thrdeye
if you are just using it for auto x, get a 3 point and save some money
Get a 5 point if you can - the waist belt just gets pulled up when you tighten your shoulder straps for 3/4 point harnesses.
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Old 05-20-2004, 10:11 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally posted by SpaceHamster
Greg, can we convince you to post some pics of your setup? Ill be needing a harness soon as well. Which bar did you get and what are your impressions?
I agree! It sounds exactly like what I've been looking for!
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Old 05-20-2004, 10:15 PM   #10
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It's a Speedware bar, bought second hand. I had to go out and buy my own mounting bolts, which is okay, as I would have replaced them anyway with grade 10.9 bolts (metric, strongest you can get).

It's an extremely tight fit, and will do some cosmetic damage to the B-pillar trim. I put a little racer tape on the inside of the bar mounts to mitigate damage. Once installed it must give additional bracing to the chassis, but I can't really tell -- I do have front and rear strut tower braces as well.

Here are pix (yes, I know the sub angle mount isn't ideal. It's okay for my purposes):









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Old 05-21-2004, 10:55 PM   #11
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Nice setup there Greg.

I have a 3pt Sabelt clubman in my car for AutoX. It's all you need. I only use it so I can regulate my braking and feel the car better in the corners.

Some will give you crap about having a harness for autoX. But I say it helps.
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Old 05-22-2004, 01:03 AM   #12
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Quick question: Does it mater if the date on the harness is way past or do they not check for that at tech ?
Thanks
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Old 05-22-2004, 01:30 AM   #13
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If I cared what others thought I wouldn't be driving a bling bling STi. I was just days away from buying a mid-90s 911 when I changed my mind for the Suby.

If you're going to go through the trouble of installing any harness, a 5 (or 6) point is the only way to go. The STi's seats are only marginal in terms of motorsports driving, but add in the harness and they're plenty good enough. And they tuck neatly away for daily driving use when I use my OEM belt.

I'm not a serious autoxer, as I much prefer road racing -- or HPDE's for now as that's all I have time & $ for lately (plus karting). Besides, without a proper roll bar/cage the harness is just there to keep my butt properly placed behind the wheel.

As far as old belts go, I don't think any autox tech is going to even look at the label. Maybe at an SCCA event, but not at any I've been to lately. They didn't look at the one HPDE I've done either, but I wouldn't go out on a circuit like the Phoenix roval with old belts.

OTOH, new certified belts are cheap. I bought my FIA certified 5-point camlock belts for 109.99 each, with free shipping from SafeRacer.com. Sweet deal for new belts in your choice of black, red or blue.
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Old 05-22-2004, 04:20 PM   #14
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Harnesses w/o a rollbar?
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Old 05-23-2004, 12:40 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally posted by Ryan
Harnesses w/o a rollbar?
Life without living?

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Old 06-28-2005, 09:35 PM   #16
Scott Farmer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ryan
Harnesses w/o a rollbar?
Yeah, pretty dangerous, although rollovers are rare at autocrosses, so I wouldn't call it dangerous.
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Old 06-29-2005, 12:13 PM   #17
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Where are you anchoring the shoulder belts? I have a speedware bar and g-force 6 point camlock harnesses and haven't installed them yet. I'm resolved to drill four holes in the floor pan to handle the rest of the belts but I'm not sure about the shoulders. I think you can connect one of the shoulder belts to the same place that the harness bar connects to at the bottom. But the other one I'm at a loss, I guess I have to drill another hole? I thought to try bolting the other shoulder belt where the inside seat rail bolts in with a longer bolt but that's no good because it won't mount up flush without hacking away a lot of the seat rail.
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Old 06-29-2005, 12:25 PM   #18
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Shoulder belts connect directly to the harness bar (which is the purpose of the harness bar).

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Old 06-29-2005, 12:35 PM   #19
Roy Dietsch
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drill a hole in the floor!


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Old 06-29-2005, 12:39 PM   #20
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Huh, I'm confused. I've seen pictures of a harness bar with the belts wrapped around and fed through and then bolted down behind the seats on the floor.

So you just remove the bolt in ends that come on the shoulder harnesses and just use that strap clip thing huh? I knew that the main reason to have the harness bar is to make sure that the belts come back at the proper angle so that your spine doesn't compress in a collision but I didn't know you could just strap them to the bar itself without also bolting them somewhere.
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Old 06-29-2005, 01:03 PM   #21
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A 6 point is meant for reclined seating it is overkill for upright seating. A single sub belt is more than sufficient to keep the lap belt down in place on the hips. With a 5 point the sub belt can be attached through the support for the front seat brackets with a carraige bolt. The lap belts can be attached to the seat belt lower mount and the inside rear seat base using longer 10.4 bolts in place of the OEM. No holes are required in the floor pan and all points are securely attached on structurally sound locations.

Besides locating the shoulder straps the other reason for a bar rather than some attachment method that involves going to the rear seat or floor for the shoulder belts is that belts stretch the more material from attachment to harness the more it will stretch - rollover or not if you hit something with 60" of webbing for shoulder harnesses it is going to stretch alot and you are going to move forward a substantial amount.
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Old 06-29-2005, 01:32 PM   #22
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I dunno about all this talk about drilling tapping, strapping hooking. For a 3pt, which is all you need for AutoX, the Subaru is pratically install ready for the harness.


There is one anchor hole bolt that goes into the rear seatbelt junction under the bench. They anchor on the drivers right hip you need to remove the rear seat bolt and replace with eye hole bolt, and the drivers left hip there is actually a hold ready for you to screw in the eye hole bolt under the carpet near the lower seatbelt mounting point.

The Sabelt 3pt clubman comes with all the hardware and it bolts in in about 15 minutes.
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Old 06-29-2005, 01:40 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WRXedUSA
I dunno about all this talk about drilling tapping, strapping hooking. For a 3pt, which is all you need for AutoX, the Subaru is pratically install ready for the harness.
Actually it comes installed with a 3 point. Just use a CG lock for auto-x.


Quote:
There is one anchor hole bolt that goes into the rear seatbelt junction under the bench. They anchor on the drivers right hip you need to remove the rear seat bolt and replace with eye hole bolt, and the drivers left hip there is actually a hold ready for you to screw in the eye hole bolt under the carpet near the lower seatbelt mounting point.

The Sabelt 3pt clubman comes with all the hardware and it bolts in in about 15 minutes.
Don't hit anything - you don't want to see how much stretch those things have in a collision, especially if you have followed the advice to disconnect the airbags when wearing helmets.
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Old 06-29-2005, 11:05 PM   #24
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Old 03-09-2006, 01:16 PM   #25
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For those of you who are not using the Sparco harness bar where there are 2 little welded rails to keep your shoulder harness from sliding around...

what are you doing to keep your shoulder harness from sliding around the curved end of the harness bar?

I have an autopower 4pt rollcage with the weld in harness bar and with the 3" Gforce belts the outside shoulder belt inevitably slides around the cured part of the bar when I tighten them down.

For now I have the 2 shoulder belts 'X' behind the seat to keep them in place. I have an Evo seat and its at least a foot from the harness bar. I know this is less than ideal, but it'll work. probably have more slack in the system on an impact, but still solid. The buckles are not in the way of each other.

The other thing I can do is wrap the webbing around the bar once, and secure the ends of the straps to the other shoulder harness, effectivly tying the 2 together. This has potential to be neater and with the webbing not loaded at an angle on the bar. With a full wrap of the harness bar in between the 2, one will not directly load the other belt when pulling on one.

Just some thoughts right now. anyone else have this problem or have comments on what to try or not to try? Thanks.
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