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Old 01-14-2012, 11:16 PM   #1
CIATexan
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Any body know where you can get the proper tool to tightens down the top nut on d specs?

I've been ****ing with them all night and I'm bout to **** a brick....
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Old 01-15-2012, 03:05 AM   #2
Boxer4u
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Impact gun set to low, maybe medium. Just don't go but with it. A couple trigger pulls after its finger tight and your good. You can also use a strap wrench to hold the shaft from spinning while someone else torques the nut to spec
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Old 01-15-2012, 03:07 AM   #3
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I use a 14.4v cordless impact and zap them down......never had an issue

a rubber glove on the shaft holds them well enough to get them tight enough
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Old 01-15-2012, 03:23 AM   #4
kenlee
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Can't you just tighten them "enough" and get them mounted and finish tightening one mounted so your not struggling to keep them from moving about?
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Old 01-15-2012, 03:39 AM   #5
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if it's like the KYBs I put on my wife's 03 OBW, it's a 6mm hex.

I bought a 6mm 'L' wrench, cut the short side off to make a 6mm staright 'shaft', then, I made a 'stack' from my torque wrench - 1/2 to 3/8 to 1/4 6mm socket with one end of the 6mm hex 'shaft' in it( a 3/8 drive 6mm would be best - I just don't have one). I passed this through the 17mm deep socket(which was held with some vicegrips) for the nut.. used my 1/2" torque wrench (set for left-turn tightening) and torqued it. Kinda awkward. probably not 'necessary' but, they got the right torque.

let me see......

oh yeah; http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/...ruts-done.html
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Old 01-15-2012, 04:48 PM   #6
CIATexan
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Thanks for all the feedback. D-Specs don't use the hex style fitting, the shaft has been ground down flat on the sides and requires a special tool.

I went out and bought an electric impact drill, and as far as I can tell, they're torqued as much as they can be.

They still have a horrible clunk to the rears, I dont know what the issue could be...

Help or thoughts?

Its a 2002 wrx wagon with 04-07 epic engineering springs and brand new 04-07 top hats. Could I have left something out when assembling the rear struts?

They were put together as so.

Nut
-
Washer
-
Tophat
-
Spring
-
Rubber seat
-
Strut
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Old 01-15-2012, 05:05 PM   #7
CIATexan
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For what it's worth, I did the fronts this am and they have no issues.
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Old 01-15-2012, 05:59 PM   #8
CIATexan
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Bumpskis, drinking a beer and hoping to get this resolved today. Got work in tha am!
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Old 01-15-2012, 06:23 PM   #9
CIATexan
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So I just pulled the rears, and I think the clunk is due to the strut itself topping out... Someone please tell me these aren't blown....
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Old 01-15-2012, 06:31 PM   #10
CIATexan
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Here's a video of the offending clunk.

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Old 01-15-2012, 06:59 PM   #11
Wicked Innovation
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scooby spacer installed?
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Old 01-15-2012, 07:06 PM   #12
CIATexan
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Installing a set currently, should have results in about half an hour. The strut in the video has one installed.
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Old 01-15-2012, 07:14 PM   #13
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I JUST did this yesterday....and you need to put the 'scooby spacer' on the top of the strut shaft...then the top...then the washer then the nut and tighten
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Old 01-15-2012, 07:22 PM   #14
JDwhiteWRX
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Reinstall the strut on the car, drop the car so full weight is on the suspension then tighten the nuts.
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Old 01-15-2012, 07:26 PM   #15
kh15
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i ground down 2 sides of a 17mm socket down flat so I could get a crescent on it and used a L shaped allen to keep the strut from spinning.
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Old 01-15-2012, 07:45 PM   #16
CIATexan
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So.... I don't know what or why, but I just installed the scoob spacers, and now it's dead quiet.... I dont get it.

Time to go charge some on-ramps.
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Old 01-15-2012, 07:46 PM   #17
CIATexan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kh15
i ground down 2 sides of a 17mm socket down flat so I could get a crescent on it and used a L shaped allen to keep the strut from spinning.
D-specs don't have the Allen key adjustment, it has two flat sides ground Into the sides if the shaft.
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Old 01-15-2012, 09:47 PM   #18
CIATexan
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So, just got back from a tuning run, settled on 4.5 turns front, 4 rear. These things feel fantastic.

The Epic Engineering springs feel pretty good, but the drop isn't quite as much as I was hoping. Looks stock, just more level.

Can't wait to push harder and start tweaking.
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Old 01-15-2012, 11:29 PM   #19
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^^First, glad to hear you found a set of d-specs...I've seen your posts in about every thread of used d-specs that I'm currently looking for!

Anyway, glad to hear you got the clunk fixed - thank god it was simply the spacer. Also, I thought that the D-specs had the hex on the top of the strut like the stock struts...what did you end up using to hold the shaft of the strut? Something on the flat part that you described?

And as an FYI to all...Please DO NOT use an impact on your struts, especially d-specs! It can damage the struts. Much safer to just use a hex and a pass-through socket/ratchet (or whatever is required for the d-specs).

Last edited by wrxsomeday; 01-15-2012 at 11:36 PM.
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Old 01-15-2012, 11:55 PM   #20
JarHarms
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Scrap bolt, thru-socket, and regular socket to make the initial tightening. After that use a TQ wrench and deep socket to make the final tightening to spec. Works great for the rear struts also.





Although I am not fond of Tokico's Dspecs and look forward to the day I replace them, piss on them, then throw them over a tall cliff.
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Old 01-16-2012, 12:15 AM   #21
Uncle Scotty
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wrxsomeday View Post
^^First, glad to hear you found a set of d-specs...I've seen your posts in about every thread of used d-specs that I'm currently looking for!

Anyway, glad to hear you got the clunk fixed - thank god it was simply the spacer. Also, I thought that the D-specs had the hex on the top of the strut like the stock struts...what did you end up using to hold the shaft of the strut? Something on the flat part that you described?

And as an FYI to all...Please DO NOT use an impact on your struts, especially d-specs! It can damage the struts. Much safer to just use a hex and a pass-through socket/ratchet (or whatever is required for the d-specs).
I have used a cordless impact on MANY-MANY agx and d spec struts with no issues at all of any sort......reach through the spring....push up the dust boot....grab the strut shaft with a rubber gloved hand and zzzzAAAAAAAPPPP.....DONE
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Old 01-16-2012, 12:17 AM   #22
Uncle Scotty
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JarHarms View Post
Scrap bolt, thru-socket, and regular socket to make the initial tightening. After that use a TQ wrench and deep socket to make the final tightening to spec. Works great for the rear struts also.





Although I am not fond of Tokico's Dspecs and look forward to the day I replace them, piss on them, then throw them over a tall cliff.
the above is a waste of time....and

you are the only one i have ever seen post who does not like the d specs

you must have an issue that isnt related that you think is the struts or have them adjusted wrong...or something
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Old 01-16-2012, 12:34 AM   #23
wrxsomeday
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uncle Scotty View Post
I have used a cordless impact on MANY-MANY agx and d spec struts with no issues at all of any sort......reach through the spring....push up the dust boot....grab the strut shaft with a rubber gloved hand and zzzzAAAAAAAPPPP.....DONE
Hmm, I may need to give the rubber-gloved hand a try when I get mine. Although I think I may just get the nut started with it off the car, install, and finish tightening.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Uncle Scotty View Post
the above is a waste of time....and

you are the only one i have ever seen post who does not like the d specs

you must have an issue that isnt related that you think is the struts or have them adjusted wrong...or something
And yes, I haven't never heard of any one disliking the D-pecs either...especially as frustrated as that guy!
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Old 01-16-2012, 01:25 AM   #24
1 Lucky Texan
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that strut looks like it has the flats as mentioned AND either hex or maybe Torx key 'inset'. Otherwise, why not make the top solid?
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Old 01-16-2012, 02:02 AM   #25
CIATexan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1 Lucky Texan View Post
that strut looks like it has the flats as mentioned AND either hex or maybe Torx key 'inset'. Otherwise, why not make the top solid?
the reason it has the flats on the sides, and looks as though it has a hex in the middle (it does, but not for that reason) is there is a set screw inside the top of the shaft that allows you to adjust the firmness of the strut. It's NOT for torquing down the top nut, I would assume if you tried, you would invariably destroy your strut.
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