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Old 02-01-2005, 09:39 PM   #101
BIGSKYWRX
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gogitawrx
Big Sky: I have one grade 8 washer underneath. I will be checking this on Sunday. I may need another underneath there. May just be me.
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Old 02-02-2005, 08:04 AM   #102
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I had washers under the nut and the nut was tight but because the ID of the washer wasn't big enough to fit over the middle step I had slack.

good luck
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Old 02-02-2005, 11:24 AM   #103
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gogitawrx
Big Sky: I have one grade 8 washer underneath. I will be checking this on Sunday. I may need another underneath there. May just be me.

Zuffy: So far I like them, but I have some "playing" to do to find the right combo for the damping (way too much adjustibility). The only thing that I don't like is I will have to remove the rear seat to be able to adjust the rear damping.
gogitawrx,

What I do to get around that is leave the outer "hooks" for the rear seat back unhooked when reinstalling the seat. That way you can just bend the corner of the seat back back to access the adjuster. To further ease making the adjustments, i took some small brass tubing that you find at a hobby shop and squeezed one end to an oval so it fits over the koni adjuster spade. This tubing gives you the length you need so you don't have to shove your hand down in there. You can make a handle or try to slide/solder a smaller tube in and ovalize the end so you can stick it into the koni adjuster knob so you can get a grip on the tube for adjustment.
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Old 03-04-2005, 11:58 AM   #104
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Does anyone have the measurement of the middle "shoulder step" OD for the v7 and/or the v8 style strut? I assume the threaded portion has not changed between them though?

I'm thinking when i do this job for a friend of mine, i'm going to use that thick conical washer from the fronts as the base washer for the rear hybrid combo. It seems heavy duty enough and hopefully the proper ID so i don't have to bust out the unibit. I just wonder if there is any difference in the OD of the middle step, will there be a need for a thin sleeve between the koni shaft and the strut top sleeve to tighten the gap (or am i overthinking this setup)?

Please help out a n00b like myself!

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Old 03-07-2005, 09:54 AM   #105
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I'm not sure if this is my problem or not. I have an 04 wrx with what I thought were v8 JDM take-offs. I just installed some Grp-N tops and pink springs. IM getting teh clunking in the rear, from the strut tops. I took out the back seat, and had a friend ride in the back to listen.

The od thing is that I think I have v8 struts and 04 tops and springs. So there should not be a compatability isue.

Can the washer fix be done while the struts are installed? Can I just take of the nut while thy are on the car and install the washer and see if th enoise goes away? Will I need a pass through to secure the alen part of the strut?

Any ideas? Ill try and grab the part number of my struts later.
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Old 03-07-2005, 09:58 AM   #106
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TopKatz
I'm not sure if this is my problem or not. I have an 04 wrx with what I thought were v8 JDM take-offs. I just installed some Grp-N tops and pink springs. IM getting teh clunking in the rear, from the strut tops. I took out the back seat, and had a friend ride in the back to listen.

The od thing is that I think I have v8 struts and 04 tops and springs. So there should not be a compatability isue.

Can the washer fix be done while the struts are installed? Can I just take of the nut while thy are on the car and install the washer and see if th enoise goes away? Will I need a pass through to secure the alen part of the strut?

Any ideas? Ill try and grab the part number of my struts later.
yes the washer can be installed while everything is on the car. if you can't find an impact, take your car to any auto repair place and ask them nicely if you can borrow their impact for 2 mins. give the guy 5 bucks for his troubles or something.
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Old 03-07-2005, 10:03 AM   #107
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MRF582
yes the washer can be installed while everything is on the car. if you can't find an impact, take your car to any auto repair place and ask them nicely if you can borrow their impact for 2 mins. give the guy 5 bucks for his troubles or something.
So I dont need to wory about a pass through and the alen? just get the nut off, put the washer on and tighten teh crap out of the asembly?

I can handel that? 16mm hardened washer, right?
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Old 03-07-2005, 10:09 AM   #108
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TopKatz
So I dont need to wory about a pass through and the alen? just get the nut off, put the washer on and tighten teh crap out of the asembly?

I can handel that? 16mm hardened washer, right?
Make sure you don't have v8 struts first. If you have v8 struts you don't need the washer (and probably don't want the washer)- it could be as easy as as the top nut not fully seated- this is very, very common issue w/ the top not being fully seated and easily remedied.

First find out what struts you have or don't have.

Big Sky
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Old 03-07-2005, 10:29 AM   #109
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGSKYWRX
Make sure you don't have v8 struts first. If you have v8 struts you don't need the washer (and probably don't want the washer)- it could be as easy as as the top nut not fully seated- this is very, very common issue w/ the top not being fully seated and easily remedied.

First find out what struts you have or don't have.

Big Sky
good advice... Ill grab the numbers first.
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Old 03-07-2005, 12:32 PM   #110
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If you bought them as a complete set of four, just look at the front struts. If the lower spring perches have holes in them then they are V8's.
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Old 03-07-2005, 12:35 PM   #111
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BTW, its 17mm for the large nut on the strut top, 12mm for the little ones (14.5 ft/lbs)
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Old 03-07-2005, 01:36 PM   #112
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They are v8's.

If I lift the car slightly from the rear wheel well I can reproduce the sound. I'm not sure that tells me anything. I'm going to look around for a good walk through on installing the top hats the correct way. Anyone with any good links.
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Old 03-07-2005, 09:47 PM   #113
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Sounds like the top nut could need further tightening, if they weren't seated w/ the weight of the car this frequently happens. Pull the seats (sedan) or if your lucky you have a wagon - and put a little "air" to the top nut.

The rear tops have an arrow pointing out.

Big Sky
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Old 03-08-2005, 10:35 AM   #114
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You can actualy see the suspention moving when I pull up on the wheel well. It moves like a 1/2 inch or so.

The top hats have the "AWD" label towards the out side of the car. So that looks ok.

The 17mm nut should take 44lb correct? This is obviously the first thing I should try as it requires teh least amount of work, and actrualy makes the most sense.
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Old 03-08-2005, 11:03 AM   #115
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crank that top nut as much as you need. that 44 ft lbs torque rating is fine if the nut was out in the open and not rubbing against anything. but in the top rubber strut mount, the sides of the nut rub against the rubber surrounds and also depending how close it is to the bottom, it'll rub against that.

so it's actually 44 ft lbs against the main shaft plus whatever frictional forces b/c of sides of the nut hitting the surrounds.

basically, i took my cordless impact and kept at it till it wouldn't go any further.
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Old 03-08-2005, 11:35 AM   #116
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Sounds like you found it- top nut isn't tight enough- top is not fully seated- I'd hit it w/ air and get it snug. Once it stops turning, stop hitting- shouldn't take much to seat it.
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Old 03-08-2005, 12:31 PM   #117
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You guys rock... Ill report back after we give that a try
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Old 03-09-2005, 12:45 AM   #118
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Ok so let me get this straight. I have a 03 (v7) wrx and I came across a good deal on some 04 sti springs (v8) . To be able to use them I have to get a few washers to add on the strut and a set of 04 (v8) tophats in the rear, and I don't need to change the tophats or do any mods to the front struts at all?
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Old 03-09-2005, 02:11 AM   #119
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pitchlock - basically you have it right. Front hats are compatible across all years of WRX. The rears will need to be switched depending on spring type. Try using washers as mentioned above. It works for some.
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Old 03-09-2005, 10:48 AM   #120
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OK thanks Arnie
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Old 03-09-2005, 01:23 PM   #121
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FYI - we put a impact gun to the suspect strut . It did not budge. However, the nut does not look centered in its opening, which leads me to belive that the strut componets on the driver side are missalighned. Its going in tomorow to pull the rear struts out again, and re-alighn them. I can only hope this clears up my isuess at this point.

BTW- it seams to only be the driver side.
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Old 03-09-2005, 04:15 PM   #122
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Does the clunking sound only occur at the rear of the vehicle?
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Old 03-09-2005, 05:28 PM   #123
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Who are you asking?

Mine is from the drivers rear.

I belive that this thread was started, and describes problems with REAR v7 struts and the use or V8 springs and tops.

So I would think most if not all the information in here is dealing witht eh rear struts.
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Old 03-10-2005, 11:59 AM   #124
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Arnie
pitchlock - basically you have it right. Front hats are compatible across all years of WRX. The rears will need to be switched depending on spring type. Try using washers as mentioned above. It works for some.

Also couldn't I eliminate this by using 04 struts, springs, and tophats in the rear of a 03? since its a whole assembly (04 strut spring tophat) they would fit together and seat properly but would it bolt into a 03 car?
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Old 03-10-2005, 12:50 PM   #125
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pitchlock
Also couldn't I eliminate this by using 04 struts, springs, and tophats in the rear of a 03? since its a whole assembly (04 strut spring tophat) they would fit together and seat properly but would it bolt into a 03 car?
Yes...

BTW - my clunk is now gone after alighning the spring corectly everything is cool.
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